tire type FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis

02-01-06

Brakes

02-01-06

side.
Refill the master cylinder reser-

voir after each wheel cylinder is bled

and install the master cylinder cover

and gasket. Be sure the diaphragm

type gasket is properly positioned in

the master cylinder cover. When the

bleeding operation is completed, the

fluid level should be filled to within

1/4 inch of the top of the reservoirs.

7. If the primary (front brake) sys-

tem is to be bled. Repeat steps 2

through 6 at the right front brake cal-

iper or cylinder and ending at the left

front brake caliper or cylinder.

8. On disc brake equipped models

be sure that the front brake pistons

are returned to their normal positions

and that the shoe and lining assem-

blies are properly seated by depressing

the brake pedal several times until

normal pedal travel is established.

9. Centralize the pressure differen-

tial valve. Refer to the Centralizing

the Pressure Differential Valve proce-

dures which follow.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

The Lincoln Continental hydraulic

brake system is to be bled only with

pressure bleeding equipment.

Bleed the longest lines first. The

bleeder tank should contain enough

new Ford Brake Fluid to complete the

bleeding operation. Use Ford Brake

Fluid — Extra Heavy Duty — Part

Number C6AZ-19542-A (ESA-

M6C25-A) or equivalent for all brake

applications. The brake fluid is col-

ored blue for identification purposes.

Do not mix low temperature brake

fluid with the specified brake fluid

during the bleeding operations. Never

re-use brake fluid that has been

drained from the hydraulic system.

The tank should be charged with ap-

proximately 10 to 30 pounds of air

pressure. Never exceed 50 pounds

pressure.

1.
Clean all dirt from the master

cylinder reservoir cover.

2.
Remove the master cylinder res-

ervoir cover and rubber gasket, and

fill the master cylinder reservoir with

the specified brake fluid. Install the

pressure bleeder adapter tool to the

master cylinder, and attach the bleed-

er tank hose to the fittng on the

adapter.

Master cylinder pressure bleeder

adapter tools can be obtained from

the various manufacturers of pressure

bleeding equipment. Follow the in-

structions of the manufacturer when

installing the adapter.

3.
If the master cylinder is

equipped with a bleed screw, loosen
the bleed screw and bleed the master

cylinder until the fluid is free of air

bubbles; then, tighten the bleed screw.

Do not use the secondary piston stop

screw, located on the bottom of the

master cylinder, to bleed the master

cylinder.

4.
If the rear wheel cylinders, the

secondary brake system, are to be

bled, position a 3/8 inch box wrench

(Fig. 9) on the bleeder fitting on the

right rear brake wheel cylinder. At-

tach a bleeder tube to the bleeder fit-

ting. The end of the tube should fit

snugly around the bleeder fitting.

5. Open the valve on the bleeder

tank to admit pressurized brake fluid

to the master cylinder reservoir.

6. Submerge the free end of the

tube in a container partially filled with

clean brake fluid, and loosen the

bleeder fitting.

7.
When air bubbles cease to ap-

pear in the fluid at the submerged end

of the bleeder tube, close the bleeder

fitting and remove the tube.

8. Repeat steps 3 through 7 at the

left rear wheel cylinder.

9. If the vehicle is equipped with

disc brakes, repeat steps 4 through 7,

starting at the right front disc caliper

and ending at the left front disc cali-

per.

On Lincoln Continental models the

front wheel and tire assemblies must
be removed to gain access to the

bleeder fittings on the calipers. Also

on Lincoln Continental models the

metering valve release rod must be

pulled outward and held a minimum

of 1/16 inch (Fig. 10) while bleeding

the primary brake system.

10.
If the vehicle contains drum-

type front brakes and the primary

(front) brake system is to be bled, re-

peat steps 4 through 7, starting at the

right front wheel cylinder ending at

the left front wheel cylinder.

11.
When the bleeding operation is

completed, close the bleeder tank

valve and remove the tank hose from

the adapter fitting.

12.
On disc brake equipped ve-

hicles,
be sure that the front brake

pistons are returned to their normal

positions and that the shoe and lining

assemblies are properly seated by dep-

ressing the brake pedal several times

until normal pedal travel is esta-

blished.

13.
Remove the Pressure Bleeder

Adapter Tool. Fill the master cylinder

reservoirs to within 1/4 inch of the

top.
Install the master cylinder cover

and gasket. Be sure the Diaphragm

type gasket is properly positioned in

the master cylinder cover.

14.
Centralize the pressure differen-

tial valve as follows.

METERING VALVE

BLEEDER RETAINER

SEE

VIEW A

RELEASE ROD

FIG. 10—Disc Brake Metering Valve—Lincoln Continental
HI 644-Aprocarmanuals.com

02-01-08
Brakes

02-01-08

BEARING CUP

DIMENSION "B"

0.755 MINIMUM

DIMENSION "A'

0.395 MINIMUM

H1532-B

FIG. 12—Disc Brake Rotor Service

Limits—Lincoln Continental

per splash shield or the bleeder screw

fitting.

4.
Front wheel bearing end play is

critical and must be within specifica-

tions.

5.
Be sure the vehicle is centered on

the hoist before servicing any front

end components, to avoid bending or

damaging the rotor splash shield on

full right or left wheel turns.

6. The proportioning valve should

not be disassembled or adjustments

attempted on it.

7.
Riding of the brake pedal (com-

mon on left foot applications) should

be avoided during vehicle operation.

8. The wheel and tire must be re-

moved ' separately from the brake

rotor, unlike drum brakes where the
wheel, tire and drum are removed as a

unit.

9. On floating caliper type disc

brakes whenever the caliper is re-

moved the caliper locating pins should

be inspected for wear or damage.

10.
On floating caliper type disc

brakes, the caliper assembly must be

removed from the spindle prior to re-

moval of the shoe and lining assem-

blies.

11.
On floating caliper type disc

brakes the calipers must not be inter-

changed from one side to the other.

When the caliper is installed on its

proper anchor plate and spindle, the

bleeder screw will point to the rear of

the vehicle (Fig. 22). If a caliper is in-

stalled on the wrong side of the vehi-

cle,
it is not possible to bleed the sys-

tem properly.

12.
Do not attempt to clean or re-

store oil or grease soaked brake lin-

ings.
When contaminated linings are

found, brake linings must be replaced

in complete axle sets.

DRUM BRAKES

1.
Remove the wheel from the

drum, and remove the drum as out-

lined in Part 2-2, Section 2.

2.
Brush all dust from the backing

plates and interior of the brake

drums.

3.
Inspect the brake shoes for ex-

cessive lining wear or shoe damage. If

the lining is worn within 1/32 inch of

the rivet heads or if the shoes are

damaged, they must be replaced. Re-

place any lining that had been con-

taminated with oil, grease or brake
fluid. Replace lining in axle sets. Prior

to replacement of lining, the drum di-

ameter should be checked to deter-

mine if oversize linings must be in-

stalled.

4.
Check the condition of brake

shoes,
retracting springs, hold-down

springs, and drum for signs of over-

heating. If the shoes have a slight blue

coloring, indicating overheating, re-

placement of the retracting and hold-.

down springs is strongly recommended.

Overheated springs lose their pull and

could cause the new lining i:o wear

prematurely, if they are not replaced.

5. If the vehicle has 30,000 or more

miles of operation on the brake linings

or signs of overheating are present

when relining brakes, the wheel cylin-

ders should be disassembled and in-

spected for wear and entrance of dirt

into the cylinder. The cylinder cups

should be replaced, thus avoiding fu-

ture problems.

6. Inspect all other brake parts and

replace any that are worn or dam-

aged.

7.
Inspect the brake drum and, if

necessary, refinish. Refer to Part 2-2,

Section 4 for refinishing.

BRAKE BOOSTER

Check the booster operation as

noted in Part 2-1, Section 1, Power

Brake Functional Test. If the brake

booster is damaged or defective, re-

place it with a new booster. The brake

booster is serviced only as an assem-

bly.procarmanuals.com

02-02-08
Brake System

02-02-08

Tool-HRE-8650

JUST SET TO DRUM

DIAMETER HERE . . .
FIND CORRECT BRAKE

SHOE DIAMETER HERE

H1416-A

FIG.
7
7—Adjusting Brake Shoes Using Tool HRE-8650

BOOT

BOOT

PISTON
. BLEEDER .

CYLINDER
SCREW RETURN SPRING PIST0N

H1385-B

FIG. 72—Brake Wheel Cylinder—Typical

DISASSEMBLY

1.
Remove the links and the rubber

boots from the ends of the brake cyl-

inder. Remove the pistons, cups, and

return spring from the cylinder bore

(Fig. 12).

2.
Remove the bleeder screw from

the cylinder.

INSPECTION

1.
Wash all parts in clean brake

fluid. Dry with compressed air.

2.
Replace scored pistons. Always

replace the rubber cups and dust

boots.
3.
Inspect the cylinder bore for

score marks or rust. If either condi-

tion is present the cylinder bore must

be honed. However, the cylinder

should not be honed more than 0.003

inch beyond its original diameter.

4.
Check the bleeder hole to be sure

that it is open.

ASSEMBLY

1.
Apply a light coating of heavy-

duty brake fluip! to all internal parts.

2.
Thread the bleeder screw into the

cylinder and tighten securely.

3.
Insert the return spring, cups,

and pistons into their respective posi-

tions in the cylinder bore (Fig. 12).
Place a boot over each end of the cyl-

inder. Bleed the brake system.

HYDRAULIC LINE REPAIR

Steel tubing is used throughout the

brake system with the exception of the

flexible hoses at the front wheels and

at the fear axle housing brake tube

connection (Figs. 17 thru 21).

Always bleed the applicable pri-

mary or secondary brake system after

primary or secondary brake system

hose or line replacement. Centralize

the pressure differential valve after

bleeding the system.

BRAKE TUBE

REPLACEMENT

If a section of the brake tubing be-

comes damaged, the entire section

should be replaced with tubing of the

same type, size, shape and length.

Copper tubing should not be used in a

hydraulic system. When bending

brake tubing to fit underbody or rear

axle contours, be careful not to kink

or crack the tube.

All brake tubing should be double

flared properly to provide good leak-

proof connections. Clean the brake

tubing by flushing with clean brake

fluid before installation.

When connecting a tube to a hose,

tube connector, or brake cylinder,

tighten the tube fitting nut to specified

torque with Milbar tool 1112-144 or

equivalent.

BRAKE HOSE

REPLACEMENT

A flexible brake hose should be re-

placed if it shows signs of softening,

cracking, or other damage.

When installing a new front brake

hose,
position the hose to avoid con-

tact with other chassis parts. Place a

new copper gasket over the hose fit-

ting and thread the hose assembly into

the front wheel cylinder. Engage the

opposite end of the hose to the brack-

et on the frame. Install the horsesho-

e-type retaining clip, and connect the

tube to the hose with the tube fitting

nut (Figs. 17 thru 21).

A rear brake hose should be in-

stalled so that it does not touch the

muffler outlet pipe or shock absorber.

Thread the hose into the rear brake

tube connector. Engage the front end

of the hose to the bracket on the

frame. Install the horseshoe-type re-

taining clip, and connect the tube to

the hose with the tube fitting nut.procarmanuals.com

02-02-10
Brake System

02-02-10

brake adjustment then connect the

parking brake cable to the parking

brake lever (Fig. 8).

4.
Install the shoe guide (anchor

pin) plate on the anchor pin when so

equipped.

5.
Place the cable eye over the an-

chor pin with the crimped side toward

the backing plate.

6. Install the primary shoe to an-

chor spring (Fig. 15).

H1391-A

FIG. 75—Retracting Spring

Installation

7.
Install the cable guide on the

secondary shoe web with the flanged

hole fitted into the hole in the second-

ary shoe web. Thread the cable

around the cable guide groove (Fig.

8).

It
is
imperative that
the
cable
be

positioned
in
this groove
and not be-

tween
the
guide
and the
shoe
web.

8.
Install the secondary shoe to an-

chor spring with the tool shown in

Fig. 15.

Be certain that
the
cable
eye is not

cocked
or
binding
on the
anchor
pin

when installed.
All
parts should
be
flat

on
the
anchor
pin.
Remove
the
brake

cylinder clamp.

9. Apply high-temperature grease

(MIC-100-A) to the threads and the

socket end of the adjusting screw.

Turn the adjusting screw into the ad-

justing pivot nut to the limit of the

threads and then back off 1/2 turn.

Interchanging
the
brake shoe
ad-

justing screw assemblies from
one
side

of
the
vehicle
to the
other would cause

the brake shoes
to
retract rather than

expand each time
the
automatic
ad-

justing mechanism operated.
To pre-

vent installation on the wrong side of

the vehicle, the socket end of the ad-

justing screw is stamped with an R or

L (Fig. 16). The adjusting pivot nuts

can be distinguished by the number of

grooves machined around the body of

the nut. Two grooves on the nut indi-

cate a right thread; one groove indi-

cates a left thread.
10.
Place the adjusting socket on

the screw and install this assembly be-

tween the shoe ends with the adjusting

screw toothed wheel nearest the sec-

ondary shoe.

11.
Hook the cable hook into the

hole in the adjusting lever. The adjust-

ing levers are stamped with an R or L

to indicate their installation on right

or left brake assembly (Fig. 16).

12.
Position the hooked end of the

ADJUSTING LEVER

IDENTIFICATION LINES

H1143-C

FIG. 16—Adjusting Screw
and

Lever Identification

adjuster spring completely into the

large hole in the primary shoe web.

The last coil of the spring should be at

the edge of the hole. Connect the loop

end of the spring to the adjuster lever

hole.

13.
Pull the adjuster lever, cable

and automatic adjuster spring down

and toward the rear to engage the

pivot hook in the large hole in the sec-

ondary shoe web (Fig. 8).

14.
After installation, check the ac-

tion of the adjuster by pulling the sec-

tion of the cable between the cable

guide and the anchor pin toward the

secondary shoe web far enough to lift

the lever past a tooth on the adjusting

screw wheel. The lever should snap

into position behind the next tooth,

and release of the cable should cause

the adjuster spring to return the lever

to its original position. This return ac-

tion of the lever will turn the adjusting

screw.one tooth.

If pulling the cable does not pro-

duce the action described, or if the

lever action is sluggish instead of posi-

tive and sharp, check the position of

the lever on the adjusting screw

toothed wheel. With the brake in a

vertical position (anchor at the top),

the lever should contact the adjusting

wheel 3/16 inch (plus or minus 1/32

inch) above the centerline of the

screw. If the contact point is below

this centerline, the lever will not lock

on the teeth in the adjusting screw

wheel, and the screw will not be turned
as the lever is actuated by the cable.

To determine the cause of this con-

dition:

a. Check the cable end fittings. The

cable should completely fill or extend

slightly beyond the crimped section of

the fittings. If it does not meet this

specification, possible damage is indi-

cated and the cable assembly should

be replaced.

b.
Check the cable length. On

Ford, Mercury, Meteor, Thunderbird,

Continental Mark III, and Lincoln

Continental models, the cable should

measure 11 1/8 inches (plus or minus

1/64 inch) from the end of the cable

anchor to the end of the cable hook.

On Fairlane, Montego, Falcon,

Mustang, and Cougar models the

cable should measure 8 13/32 inches

on 9 inch brakes or 9 3/4 inches on

10 inch brakes from the end of the

cable anchor to the end of the cable

hook.

c. Check the cable guide for dam-

age.
The cable groove should be paral-

lel to the shoe web, and the body of

the guide should lie flat against the

web.
Replace the guide if it shows

damage.

d. Check the pivot hook on the

lever. The hook surfaces should be

square with the body of the lever for

proper pivoting. Replace the lever if

the hook shows damage.

e. See that the adjusting; screw

socket is properly seated in the notch

in the shoe web.

WHEEL CYLINDER

DRUM BRAKE

REMOVAL '

1.
Remove the wheel and the drum.

2.
Remove the brake shoe assem-

blies,
following procedures outlined in

this section.

3.
Disconnect the brake line from

the brake cylinder Figs. 17 thru 21.

On
a
vehicle with
a
vacuum brake

booster,
be
sure
the
engine
is
stopped

and there
is no
vacuum
in the
booster

system before disconnecting
the hy-

draulic lines.

To disconnect the hose at a front

cylinder, loosen the tube fitting that

connects the opposite end of the hose

to the brake tube at a bracket on the

frame. Remove the horseshoe-type re-

taining clip from the hose and brack-

et, disengage the hose from the brack-

et, then unscrew the entire hose as-

sembly from the front wheel cylinder.

At a rear cylinder, unscrew the tubeprocarmanuals.com

02-02-16
Brake System

02-02-16

fitting that connects the tube to the

cylinder. Do not pull the metal tube

away from the cylinder. Pulling the

tube out of the cylinder connection

will bend the metal tube and make in-

stallation difficult. The tube will sepa-

rate from the cylinder when the cylin-

der is removed from the backing

plate.

4.
On all except the front wheels on

Ford, Mercury, and Meteor models,

remove the wheel cylinder attaching

bolts and lock washers and remove the

cylinder. On the front wheel of Ford,

Mercury and Meteor models, remove

the nut and washer that attaches the

cylinder to the anchor pin. Remove

the cylinder from the anchor pin.

INSTALLATION

Wipe the end(s) of the hydraulic

line to remove any foreign matter be-

fore making connections.

1.
On all models except Ford, Mer-

cury and Meteor, to install a front

wheel cylinder, position the cylinder to

the backing plate. Install the two lock

washers and attaching bolts. Torque

them to specifications.

On Ford, Mercury and Meteor

models, to install a front wheel cylin-

der, position the cylinder on the an-

chor pin against the backing plate. In-

stall the washer and cylinder attaching

nut on the anchor pin, and torque it

to specification. Lock the washer re-

tainer securely.

2.
Install a new copper gasket over

the hose fitting. Thread the hose into

the cylinder and tighten it to specified

torque.

3.
Engage the opposite end of the

hose to the bracket on the frame. In-

stall the horseshoe-type retaining clip,

and connect the brake tube to the

hose with the tube fitting nut. Tighten

the nut to specification with tool

1112-144.

4.
To install a rear wheel cylinder,

place the rear wheel cylinder into po-

sition. Enter the tubing into the cylin-

der, and start the tube fitting nut into

the threads of the cylinder.

5.
Secure the cylinder to the back-

ing plate by installing the attaching

bolts and lock washers.

6. Tighten the tube fitting nut to

specification with tool 1112-144.

7.
Install the links in the ends of

the wheel cylinder, install the shoes

and adjuster assemblies, and adjust

the shoes as outlined in this section.

8. Adjust the brakes (Part 2-2, Sec-

tion 2). Install the brake drum and

wheel. Bleed the brakes and centralize

the differential valve as outlined in

Part 2-1, Section 2.
BRAKE BACKING PLATE

DRUM BRAKE

REMOVAL

1.
Remove the wheel and brake

drum. Disconnect the brake line from

the brake cylinder.

2.
Remove the brake shoe and ad-

juster assemblies and the wheel cylin-

der as outlined in this section. On the

rear wheels, disconnect the parking

brake lever from the cable.

3.
If the rear backing plate is being

replaced, remove the axle shaft from

the applicable rear axle as outlined in

Group 4, Part 4-2— Rear Axle, Sec-

tion 2, disengage parking brake cable

retainer from backing plate. Remove

the backing plate and gasket.

If the front backing plate is being

replaced, remove the bolts and nuts

that secure the backing plate to the

front wheel spindle and remove the

plate and gasket.

INSTALLATION

If a rear backing plate is to be re-

placed, position a new rear backing

plate and gasket on the attaching

bolts in the axle housing flange. Insert

parking brake cable into backing plate

and secure retaining fingers. Install

the rear axle shaft for applicable rear

axle.
Refer to Group 4, Part 4-2 —

Rear Axle, Section 2 for the proper

installation procedure.

1.
If the front brake backing plate

is to be replaced, position a new front

backing plate and gasket to the wheel

spindle and install the attaching bolts

and nuts.

2.
Install the wheel cylinder and

connect the brake line as outlined in

this section.

3.
Install the brake shoe and ad-

juster assemblies as outlined in this

section. On a rear brake, connect the

parking brake cable to the lever.

4.
Adjust the brake shoes (Section

2),
and install the brake drums and

wheels. Bleed the brake system and

centralize the differential valve as out-

lined in Part 2-1, Section 2.

DISC BRAKE CALIPER

ASSEMBLY

ALL MODELS EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

Refer to Figs. 22 and 23.
BLEEDER SCREW FACING THIS DIRECTION^

BLEEDER SCREW

H 1641-A

FIG. 22—Floating Caliper

Installed

1.
Remove the front wheel cover.

Remove the wheel and tire assembly

from the hub and rotor assembly. Be

careful to avoid damage or interfer-

ence with the caliper splash shield or

bleeder screw fitting.

2.
Disconnect the brake line from

the caliper. Cap the hose to prevent

*he brake fluid from leaking from the

master cylinder.

3.
Remove the safety wire and the

two bolts that attach the caliper as-

sembly to the spindle.

4.
Lift the caliper assembly off the

rotor and place it on the bench.

Installation

1.
Position the caliper assembly on

the rotor, and mate the mounting bolt

holes in the caliper with those in the

spindle. It may be necessary to push

the caliper piston into the cylinder

bore to obtain clearance between the

shoe and lining assembly and the

rotor.

2.
Install the caliper to spindle at-

taching bolts and torque them to spe-

cification. The upper bolt must be

tightened first. Install the safety wire

on the bolts and twist the wire ends at

least five turns. Push the wire ends

against the spindle to avoid interfer-

ence with the brake hose and the

steering stop. Check to insure that the

rotor runs squarely and centrally be-

tween the two brake shoes.

3.
Position the brake hose fitting

with a new copper washer on each

side of the fitting on the caliper as-

sembly. Install the bolts and torque to

specification.

4.
Bleed the brake system and cen-

tralize the differential valve as out-

lined in Part 2-1. Check the masterprocarmanuals.com

02-02-36
Brake System

02-02-36

locating stripe on the cable is midway

between the retaining clips and tighten

all retaining clip screws.

4.
Position the left cable, retaining

clip and screw on the left lower sus-

pension arm. Compress the prongs on

the left cable and position the cable

through the frame side-member. The

prongs must be securely locked in

place.

5.
Insert the ball ends of the cables

into the equalizer assembly.

6. Install the rear drum(s) and

tighten the three Tinnerman nuts and

secure the drum. Install the wheel and

tire and the wheel cover.

7.
Adjust the parking brake linkage

as outlined in Part 2-1, Section 2. Ad-

just the rear brakes, as required (Part

2-1,
Section 2).

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO,

MUSTANG AND COUGAR—

EXCEPT STATION WAGON

Removal

1.
Remove the equalizer lock nut

and adjusting nut, equalizer, spring

and spring seat.

2.
With the cables slack, discon-

nect the ball-ends from the connector

(Figs.
35 and 36).

3.
Remove the cable from the re-

tainer hooks (station wagon models)

and the underbody guide (convertible

models) if required.

4.
Remove the hairpin lock retain-

ing the cable housing to the side rail

bracket.

5.
Remove the wheel cover, wheel

and tire and the rear brake drum as

outlined in Section 2.

6. Remove self-adjuster springs to

allow clearance to remove cable re-

tainer from the backing plate. Discon-

nect the rear end of the cable from the

parking brake lever on the brake shoe.

Disengage the cable housing retaining

grommet or steel-pronged Hi-Hat

from the backing plate and withdraw

the cable and housing from the in-

board side of the backing plate.

7.
Slide the cable and housing out

of the side rail bracket.

Installation

1.
Insert the rear end of the cable

through the side rail bracket and pull

the cable and housing into position.

2.
Insert the rear end of the cable

and housing through the hole in the

backing plate from the inboard side.

3.
Connect the cable to the parking
brake lever on the brake shoe and in-

stall the cable housing retaining grom-

met or steel-pronged Hi-Hat in the

backing plate.

4.
Install the self-adjuster springs.

Position the cable housing in the side

rail bracket and install the hairpin

type retainer.

5.
Install rear hub and drum as-

sembly, wheel and tire assemblies and

wheel cover as outlined in Section 2.

6. Position the cable retainer hooks

(station wagon models) in the under-

body guide (convertible models) and

install the connector, thus hooking the

two cables together.

7.
Insert the cable into the equaliz-

er and install the equalizer, spring

seat, spring, adjusting nut and lock

nut to the front, parking brake control

cable.

8. Adjust the parking brake^as di-

rected in Part 2-1, Section 2.

FAIRLANE AND MONTEGO

STATION WAGONS AND

FALCON PASSENGER

MODELS

Removal and Installation

Refer to Fig. 35.

Generally follow the procedure

given above, omitting separation of

the cables, since the parking brake

rear cable assemblies supplied for

these models is in one piece. Removal

and installation of both rear wheels,

tires and drums will also be required.

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

1.
Raise the car. Remove the rear

wheel cover. Remove the wheel and

tire as an assembly.

2.
Remove the three Tinnerman

nuts that hold the brake drum in

place, and remove the drum.

3.
Remove the brake shoe retract-

ing springs.

4.
Loosen the equalizer rod adjust-

ing nut and disconnect the cable from

the equalizer (Fig. 38).

5.
Remove the hairpin-type retainer

clip that secures the cable housing to

the body bracket, and pull the cable

and housing out of the bracket (Fig.

38).

6. Remove the cable to underbody

clamp attaching nuts and the clamp.

Disengage the cable housing from the

hook-type retainer at the spring U-

bolt.
7.
Working on the wheel side of the

backing plate (Fig. 38), compress the

prongs on the cable retainer so that it

can pass through the hole in the back-

ing plate. Draw the cable retainer out

of the hole.

8. With the spring tension off the

parking brake lever, lift the cable out

of the slot in the lever and remove it

through the backing plate hols.

Installation

1.
Pull enough of the cable through

the cable housing so that the end of

the cable may be inserted through the

backing plate hole from the inner side

and engage the cable end with the slot

in the parking brake lever.

2.
Pull the excess slack from the

cable and insert the cable housing into

the backing plate access hole (Fig.

38).
The prongs must be securely

locked in place.

3.
Install the brake shoe retracting

springs.

4.
Position the cable to the under-

body and install the retaining clamp

so that the cable conduit armor ex-

tends forward of the clamp as shown

in Fig. 38. Install the clamp retaining

nuts.

5.
Hook the cable housing to the

retainer at the spring U-bolt.

6. Engage the forward end of the

cable housing with the frame bracket

and secure it with the hairpin-type

clip.

7.
Insert the ball end of the cable

into the equalizer.

8. Make a preliminary brake ad-

justment with the use of Tool HRA-

8650 (Fig. 11).

9. Install the rear drum. Tighten

the three Tinnerman nuts that secure

the drum. Install the wheel and wheel

cover.

10.
Adjust the parking brake link-

age.

11.
Lower the vehicle.

ANTI-SKID CONTROL

ACTUATOR

REMOVAL

Refer to Fig. 39.

1.
Working in the passenger com-

partment, under the glove box, remove

the screw that attaches the forward

end of the control module retainer to

the support assembly. Lower the for-

ward end of the control module re-

tainer and remove the module assem-

bly.procarmanuals.com

03-01-02
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-02

1 TESTING

POWER STEERING-

PRELIMINARY TESTS

The following preliminary checks

should always be made before per-

forming any operations.

AIR BLEEDING

Air in the power steering system

(shown by bubbles in the fluid) should

be bled. After making sure that the

reservoir is filled to specification (the

fluid must be at normal operating

temperature when the check is made),

turn the steering wheel through its full

travel three or four times. Do not hold

the wheels against their stops. Re-

check the fluid level.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL

Run the engine until the fluid is at

normal operating temperature. Then

turn the steering wheel all the way to

the left and right several times, and

shut off the engine.

Check the fluid level in the power

steering reservoir. The level must show

on the cross hatching between the bot-

tom of the dipstick and the full mark

(Fig. 1). If the level is low, add

enough automatic transmission fluid

C1AZ-19582-A to raise the level to

the F mark on the dipstick. Do not

overfill the reservoir.

CHECK PUMP BELT

If the pump belt is broken, glazed,

or worn, replace it with a new belt.

Use only the specified type of belt.

Refer to Part 3-13 for belt adjustment

procedure.

CHECK FOR FLUID

LEAKS

With the engine idling, turn the

steering wheel from stop to stop sever-

al times. Check all possible leakage

points. Tighten all loose fittings, and

replace any damaged lines or defective

seats.

CHECK TURNING EFFORT

With the front wheels properly al-

igned and tire pressures correct, check

the effort required to turn the steering

wheel.
G 1508- A

FIG.
1—Power
Steering Pump

Dipstick

1.
With the vehicle on dry concrete,

set the parking brakes.

2.
With the engine warmed up and

running at idle speed, turn the steering

wheel to the left and right several

times to warm the fluid.

3.
Attach a pull scale to the rim of

the steering wheel. Measure the pull

required to turn the wheel one com-

plete revolution in each direction. The

effort required to rotate the steering

wheel should not exceed specifications

given in Part 3-13.

POWER STEERING PUMP FLOW

AND PRESSURE TESTS—

EXCEPT LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

AND CONTINENTAL MARK III

The power steering flow and pres-

sure tests will show whether the pump,

steering gear or power assist control

RETURN LINE

POWER

STEERING PUMP

Sr
valve is causing the trouble. Steps out-

lined below should be followed to de-

termine the cause of the trouble.

PUMP FLOW TEST

1.
Depending on the equipment

present on the vehicle (air condition-

ing, power brakes, standard transmis-

sion),
one of the following options

may be used to connect the pump

pressure and return hoses to the test

tool (T56L-3361O-D and T68L-

33610-A):

a. Disconnect the pressure and re-

turn lines at the power steering pump

(Fig. 2). Obtain a power steering re-

turn hose from stock and connect the

end with the fitting to the output fit-

ting of the tool using the
5/8-18
SAE

female, 1/4 N.P. thread male fitting

provided. The end of the stock hose

(without the fitting) should be con-

nected to the return tube of the pump.

Connect the pressure hose from the

tool to the outlet fitting of the pump.

b.
Disconnect the pressure line at

the pump and connect the pressure

line from the test tool to the outlet fit-

ting of the pump. Disconnect the re-

turn line at the gear and connect it to

the output fitting of the tool, using the

5/8-18
SAE female, 1/4 N.P. thread

male fitting provided.

2.
After installing the lines by the

most advantageous method, proceed

as follows:

3.
Open the manual valves A and B

fully (Fig. 2).

CALIBRATED FLOW

DETERMINING ORIFICE

PRESSURE LINE

FIG. 2—Power Steering Pump Test Circuit Diagram
PRESSURE GAGE

G1611-Aprocarmanuals.com

03-01-03
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-03

4.
Connect a tachometer, start the

engine and operate it at idle speed

until the reservoir fluid temperature

reaches 165 to 175. This temperature

must be maintained throughout the

test. Valve B may be partially closed

to create a back pressure up to 350

psi to hasten the temperature rise. The

reservoir fluid must be at the proper

level.

5.
With the engine operating at rec-

ommended idle rpm and fluid temper-

ature noted in Step 4, close the manu-

al valve B. The minimum acceptable

pressure reading is 620 psi.

6. If the pressure gauge reading is

below the minimum specification, the

pump is at fault and should be re-

paired with necessary parts.

7.
If the reading is at or above the

minimum specification, the pump flow

is normal. Open manual valve B and

proceed to the Pump Fluid Pressure

Test.

PUMP FLUID

PRESSURE TEST

1.
Keep the lines and tools con-

nected as in the Pump Flow Test.

2.
With manual valves A and B

opened fully, operate the engine at

recommended idle speed (Fig. 2).

Close manual valve A, then manual

valve B. Do not keep both valves

closed for more than 5 seconds as this

would abnormally increase the fluid

temperature and cause undue pump

and/or gear wear.

3.
With the valves fully closed, the

pressure gauge should read 1000 psi

minimum for Ford, Mercury, Meteor

or Thunderbird and 750 psi minimum

for Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon, Monte-

go or Mustang.

4.
If the pressure gauge reading is

below the minimum specification, the

pump is at fault and should be re-

paired with necessary parts.

5.
If the pressure gauge reading is

at or above the minimum specifica-

tions,
the pump is normal and the

power steering gear or power assist

control valve is at fault.

FLUID PRESSURE TEST-

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

The pressure testing gauge set, tool

T56L-33610-D, requires modification

to make it adaptable for installation

in the power steering hydraulic sys-

tem. The parts required and the modi-

fication procedure are as follows:
OWER STEERING

PRESSURE LINE

INVERTED FLARE

CONNECTOR

%* TUBE x VA" PIPE

FLARED FEMALE COUPW

%' TUBE x VA" PIPE

G1544.A

FIG. 3—Modified Pressure Gauge

Assembly

a. Power Steering Pressure Line

(refer to the appropriate Parts Catal-

og).

b.
Inverted Flare Connector (3/8

inch OD Tube x 1/4 inch Pipe

Thread).

c. Inverted Flare Connector (5/16

inch OD Tube x 1/4 inch Pipe

Thread).

d. Flared Tube Female Coupling

(3/8 inch OD Tube x 1/4 inch Pipe

Thread).

The connectors and the coupling are

standard-type fittings and can be pur-

chased locally.

e. To modify tool T56L-33610-D,

remove the hose from the hand shut-

off valve block. Install the 3/8 inch x

1/4 inch inverted flare connector in

the valve block, and assemble the

pressure line to the connector (Fig. 3).

Assemble the 3/8 x 1/4 inch coupling

and the 5/16-inch connector to the

free end of the hose leading to the.

pressure gauge.

1.
To check the pump pressure, dis-

connect the front and rear sections of

the pressure line over the number 6

cylinder. Connect the modified pres-

sure-testing gauge assembly, tool

T56L-3361O-D, between the two sec-

tions.

2.
Make sure the hand-valve at the

gauge is fully opened. Start the engine

and cycle the steering gear from stop

to stop to warm up the fluid. Check

the fluid level in the reservoir and add

fluid, if necessary.

3.
Turn the steering wheel to the

full right and full left turn positions

and observe the gauge readings.

Hold the wheels in this position

only long enough to obtain an accu-

rate reading. Do not exceed 5 seconds.

The gauge should read between

1120 and 1250 psi. If the pressure is
less than 1120 psi, close the valve at

the gauge and note the pump pressure.

If it is low with the valve closed, it in-

dicates that the pump is not operating

properly. If the pressure goes up with

the valve closed, it indicates that the

low pressure in the system must be

due to internal leakage in the power

unit, providing all connections are

tight.

4.
Remove the pressure testing

gauge set, and connect the pressure

line at the steering gear. Fill and bleed

the system.

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT

CHECKS

Do not attempt to check and adjust

front wheel alignment without first

making a preliminary inspection of

the front-end parts. Refer to Section

3.

Check all the factors of front wheel

alignment except the turning angle

before making any adjustments. The

turning angle should be checked only

after caster, camber, and toe-in have

been adjusted to specifications.

The front wheel alignment specifica-

tions given in Part 3-13, are correct

only when the vehicle is at curb load.

Before checking or adjusting the

alignment factors, the suspension

alignment spacers must be installed to

obtain the curb Height.

EQUIPMENT INSTALLATION

Equipment used for front wheel

alignment inspection must be accu-

rate.
Whenever possible, front wheel

alignment checks should be performed

on stationary wheel aligning equip-

Too/
- T65P3000-A or S

FIG. 4—Typical Front Alignment

Spacer Installation—Cougar,

Fairlane, Falcon,
Montego,
Mustangprocarmanuals.com

03-01-05
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-05

type of equipment is used, follow the

installation and inspection instructions

provided by the equipment manufactu-

rer.

CASTER

Check the caster angle at each front

wheel.

The caster is the forward or rear-

ward tilt of the top of the wheel

spindle (Fig. 12). If the spindle tilts to

the rear, caster is positive. If the

spindle tilts to the front, caster is neg-

ative. The correct caster angle, or tilt,

is specified in Part 3-13.

On Mustang, Cougar, Fairlane,

Falcon and Montego vehicles, the

maximum caster difference for check-

ing purposes must not exceed one de-

gree.
If setting is necessary, then the

maximum difference must not exceed

1/2 degree. On all other vehicles, the

maximum caster difference must never

exceed 1/2 degree.

CAMBER

Check the camber angle at each

front wheel.

Camber is the amount the front

wheels are tilted at the top (Fig. 12).

If a wheel tilts outward, camber is

positive. If a wheel tilts inward, cam-

ber is negative. The correct camber

angle, or outward (positive) tilt is

specified in Part 3-13.

On Mustang, Cougar, Fairlane,

Falcon and Montego vehicles, the

maximum camber difference for

checking purposes must not exceed

one degree. If setting is necessary,
then the maximum difference must

not exceed 1/2 degree. On all other

vehicles, the maximum camber differ-

ence must never exceed 1/2 degree.

TOE-IN

Alignment height spacers should not

be used to check and adjust toe-in.

Toe-in should only be checked and ad-

justed after the caster and camber

have been adjusted to specifications.

Check the toe-in with the front

wheels in the straight-ahead position.

Run the engine so that the power

steering control valve will be in the

center (neutral) position (if so

equipped). Measure the distance be-

tween the extreme front and also be-

tween the extreme rear of both front

wheels. The difference between these

two distances is the toe-in or toe-out.

Correct toe-in, or inward pointing

of both front wheels at the front is

specified in Part 3-13.

FRONT WHEEL

TURNING ANGLE

When the inside wheel is turned 20

degrees, the turning angle of the out-

side wheel should be as specified in

Part 3-13. The turning angle cannot

be adjusted directly, because it is a re-

sult of the combination of caster,

camber, and toe-in adjustments and

should, therefore, be measured only

after these adjustments have been

made. If the turning angle does not

measure to specifications, check the

spindle or other suspension parts for a

bent condition.
ALIGNMENT
MARKS

G-1496-A

FIG. I?—Straight Ahead Position

Marks—Typical

POSITIVE

CAMBER

• •
NEGATIVE-*!
| ^*—

CASTER

ICL
OF TIRE
POSITIVE

CASTER

5r\

CA&U

ANGlE
F1216-A

FIG. 72—Caster and Camber

Angles

COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

After front wheel alignment factors

have been checked, make the neces-

sary adjustments. Do not attempt to

adjust front wheel alignment by bend-

ing the suspension or steering parts.

CASTER AND CAMBER

ADJUSTMENTS

FORD, MERCURY, METEOR,

THUNDERBIRDAND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Caster and camber is adjusted by

loosening the bolts that attach the

upper suspension arm inner shaft to

the frame side rail, and moving the

inner shaft in or out in the elongated

bolt holes with the tool shown in Fig.
13.
The tool should be installed with

the tool pins in the frame holes and

the hooks over the upper arm inner

shaft. Then, tighten the tool hook nuts

snug before loosening the upper arm

inner shaft attaching bolts.

Caster

To adjust the caster angle, tighten

the tool front hook nut or loosen the

rear hook nut (Fig. 14) as required to

increase caster to the desired angle.

To decrease caster, tighten the tool

rear hook nut or loosen the front

hook nut as required (Fig. 14). The

caster angle can be checked without

tightening the inner shaft attaching

bolts.
Check the camber adjustment to

be sure it did not change during the

caster adjustment and adjust if neces-
FIG. 73—Camber and Caster

Adjusting Toolprocarmanuals.com

03-01-09
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-09

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the upper ball

joint.

LOWER BALL JOINT

INSPECTION

Ford,
Mercury, Meteor,

Thunderbird, Lincoln Continental

and Continental Mark III

1.
Raise the vehicle and place

jacks under the lower arms as shown

in Fig. 12. This will unload the lower

ball joints.

2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as des-

cribed in Part 3-12.

3.
Attach a dial indicator to the

lower arm and position the indicator

so that the plunger rests against the

inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to

the lower ball joint.

4.
Grasp the tire at the top and

bottom and slowly move the tire in

and out (Fig. 19). Note the reading

(radial play) on the dial indicator. If

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the lower ball

joint.

Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon,

Montego, Mustang

1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame

contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the wheel

falls to the full down position.

2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tire and move the

wheel in and out.

3.
As the wheel is being moved in

and out, observe the lower end of the

spindle and the lower arm.

4.
Any movement between the

lower end of the spindle and the lower

arm indicates ball joint wear and loss

of preload. If any such movement is

observed, replace the lower arm.

During the foregoing check, the

upper ball joint will be unloaded and

may move. Disregard all such move-

ment of the upper ball joint. Also, do

not mistake loose wheel bearings for a

worn ball joint.

POWER STEERING GEAR

CLEANING

Disassembly and assembly of the

steering gear and. the sub-assemblies

must be made on a clean workbench.

As in repairing any hydraulically op-

erated unit, cleanliness is of utmost
importance. The bench, tools, and

parts must be kept clean at all times.

Thoroughly clean the exterior of the

unit with a suitable solvent and, when

necessary drain as much of the hy-

draulic fluid as possible. Handle all

parts very carefully to avoid nicks,

burrs,
scratches and dirt, which could

make the parts unfit for use.

Do not clean, wash or soak seals in

cleaning solvent.

INSPECTION

1.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the cover for wear. If worn,

replace the cover.

2.
Inspect the input shaft bearing

for cracked races and the balls for

looseness, wear, pitting, end play or

other damage. Check the fit of the

bearing on the input shaft. Replace

the bearing, if required.

3.
Inspect the valve housing for

wear, scoring or burrs.

4.
Inspect the tube seats in the

pressure and return ports in the valve

body for nicks, etc. If necessary, re-

move and replace.

5.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the housing for wear. If

worn, replace the bushing or the hous-

ing.

6. Check all fluid passages for ob-

struction or leakage.

7.
Inspect the steering gear housing

for cracks, stripped threads, and mat-

ing surfaces for burrs. Inspect the pis-

ton bore of the housing for scoring or

wear. If necessary, replace the hous-

ing.

8. Check the input shaft bearing

after installation to be sure that it ro-

tates freely.

9. If the valve spool is not free in

the valve housing, check for burrs at

the outward edges of the working

lands in the housing and remove with

a hard stone. Check the valve spool

for burrs and if burrs are found, stone

the valve in a radial direction only.

Check for freedom of the valve again.

10.
Check the piston rack teeth and

sector shaft teeth for nicks and burrs.

FLUSHING THE POWER

STEERING SYSTEM—ALL EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Should it be necessary to replace an

inoperative power steering pump, the

need for flushing the steering system

is required when installing the new

pump.
1.
Remove the power steering pump

and remove the pulley as outlined in

Part 3-10.

2.
Install the pulley on a new

pump. Install the pump and connect

only the pressure hose to the pump

(Part 3-10).

3.
Place the fluid return line in a

suitable container and plug the reser-

voir return pipe.

4.
Fill the reservoir with lubricant

(C1AZ-19582-A).

5.
Disconnect the coil wire to pre-

vent the engine from starting and raise

the front wheels off the ground.

6. While approximately two quarts

of steering gear fluid are being poured

into the reservoir, turn the engine over

using the ignition key, at the same

time cycle the steering wheel from

stop to stop.

7.
As soon as all of the lubricant

has been poured in, turn off the igni-

tion key, and attach the coil wire.

8. Remove the plug from the reser-

voir return pipe, and attach the return

hose to the reservoir.

9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if

low, add fluid to the proper level. Do

not overfill.

10.
Lower the vehicle.

11.
Start the engine and cycle the

steering from stop to stop to expel

any trapped air from the system.

POWER STEERING PUMP—ALL

EXCEPT LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

CLEANING

Wash all parts (except seals) in a

Naptha or Chlorinated-type solvent

and dry with compressed air.

Punch or Rod

RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER

G1607-A

FIG.
20—Cleaning Pump Relief Valveprocarmanuals.com