light JEEP CJ 1953 Owner's Guide

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

D
Lubricate
the connecting rod bearing surfaces
generously with
engine
oil and install the bearing
cap with the numbered side matched to the num­
bered side of the connecting rod. Torque the nuts
evenly 35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.]. The con­
necting rod cap nuts are locked with stamped nuts.

Used
stamped nuts should be discarded and re­
placed with new
ones.
These locking stamped nuts
should be installed with the flat face toward the
connecting rod nut.
Turn
the locking nut finger
tight and then 34
turn
more with a wrench. Refer
to Par. D-36 for detailed information on fitting pistons and rings in the cylinder bores.

D-96.
Install
Crankshaft
Pulley

Align
the keyway in the pulley with the woodruff key installed in the crankshaft. Drive the pulley

onto
the crankshaft and secure it in place with
the crankshaft pulley nut. Insert a block of wood

between
one of the counterweights on the
crank­

shaft and the side of the cylinder block to prevent the crankshaft from turning, then tighten the nut.

D-97.
Install
Oil Pan
Before installing the oil pan, make a final internal
inspection particularly making certain that the
inside of the cylinder block is clean. Apply a thin
coat of gasket paste on the oil pan. Place the new

oil
pan gasket in position. Set the oil pan in posi­
tion on the cylinder block and install the oil pan.
Torque
the attaching
bolts
12 to 15 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,1

kg-m.].
Install
the oil pan
drain
plug and gasket

and
tighten the plug securely.

D-98.
Install
Cylinder
Head

Make
certain that the entire top of the cylinder

block
assembly, the lower surface of the cylinder

head,
and the cylinder head gasket are clean. Blow

all
dirt
or carbon out of the blind tapped bolt
holes

in
the cylinder block before the cylinder head and gasket are installed. Using aerosol spray sealer

Part
No. 994757, spray a thincoat on both surfaces
of the head gasket, position the new cylinder head gasket with the crimped
edges
of the gasket metal down (See Fig. D-31).
This
gasket position allows a
positive seal along the narrow surfaces of the
cylin­

der
head
between
the combustion chambers and
eliminates the possibility of burning combustion
10102

FIG.
D-41—CYLINDER
HEAD
BOLT
TIGHTENING
SEQUENCE
gases
reaching
an
asbestos
portion of the cylinder
head gasket.
Install
the cylinder head bolts. Tighten

the
bolts
with a torque wrench to 60 to 70 lb-ft. 8,3 a 9,7
kg-m.]
in the sequence shown in
Fig.
D-41.
Do not overlook installing the cylinder head bolt

in
the intake
manifold
directly under the
car­

buretor
opening.

D-99.
Install
Rocker Arm Assembly

a.
Insert
ball
ends of the intake valve push rods through the cylinder head and cylinder block and
seat them in the cupped head of the intake valve
tappets.

b.
Install
the
rocker-arm
assembly on the 'four

rocker-arm-mounting
studs. Align the rocker arms
so that the
ball
ends of the intake valve tappet

adjusting
screws fit into the cup ends of the push
rods.

c.
Install
the four rocker-arm-attaching nuts.
Thread
each nut down evenly in sequence, one

turn
at a time, until the torque is 30 to 36 lb-ft. [4,1 a 5,0 kg-m.].

d.
Cement a new gasket on the rocker arm cover.
Install
the cover placing an oil seal then a flat

washer
and nut on each cover stud. Cement a new gasket on the exhaust valve cover.
Install
the cover and crankcase ventilation fittings using a
new gasket back of the vent cover and new copper
ring
gaskets under the attaching screw heads.

Torque
the valve tappet cover nuts 7 to 10 lb-ft. [1,0 a 1,4 kg-m.].
D-100.
Install
Distributor and
Spark
Plugs

To
correctly install the distributor, it
will
be neces­

sary
to place No. 1 piston in the firing position.
To
locate the firing position of No. 1 piston, first

turn
the
engine
until No. 1 piston is moving up on
the compression stroke as indicated by compression

pressure
being forced through the
spark
plug open­

ing.
Turn
the
engine
slowly until the 5° before top
center
mark
on the timing gear cover is in align­
ment with the
mark
on the crankshaft pulley. Oil
the distributor housing where it bears on the
cylin­
der
block and install the distributor. Mount the

rotor
on distributor shaft and
turn
the shaft until
the rotor points towards No. 1
spark
plug terminal
tower position (when cap is installed, about 5
o'clock) with the contact points just breaking.
Move the rotor back and forth slightly until the

driving
lug on the end of the shaft enters the slot cut in the oil pump gear and slide the distributor
assembly down into place. Rotate the distributor body until the contact points are just breaking.
Install
the hold down screw.

Connect
the core
primary
wire to the distributor.

Clean
and adjust the
spark
plugs, setting the elec­

trode
gaps
at .030" [0,762 mm.].
Install
the plugs
to prevent any foreign matter entering the com­
bustion chambers during the remaining operations.
Torque
the
spark
plugs 25 to 30 lb-ft. [3,5 a 4,6

kg-m.].

Install
spark
plug cables, placing them in the dis­

tributor
cap terminal towers starting with No. 1

and
installing in a counter clockwise direction of
the firing order sequence (1-3-4-2). 67

D
HURRICANE
F4
ENGINE
D-101.
Install
Manifold

If
manifold studs were removed for replacement,
apply sealer on the stud threads
before
installing
a
new stud.
See Section Fl for exhaust emission controlled

engines.
Make
certain that no foreign objects are inside the manifold and that all
passages
are clear. Place a
new set of manifold
gaskets
in position on the side
of the cylinder block.
Then,
carefully slide the manifold
onto
the studs and against the cylinder block being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Torque
all manifold attaching nuts evenly 29 to
35 lb-ft. [4,0 a 4,8 kg-m.].
D-102.
Install
Oil
Filler
Tube

When
installing the oil filler tube, be sure that the
beveled lower end is away from the crankshaft.
Place a
piece
of
hard
wood
over the top of the
tube

to prevent damage to the cap gasket seat.
D-103.
Install
Water Pump

Make
certain that the mating surfaces of the water pump and the cylinder block are clean and smooth.
Install
the gasket on the
flange
of the pump and

install
the pump in position on the cylinder block.
Torque
the water pump attaching
bolts
alternately

and
evenly 12 to 17 lb-ft. [1,7 a 2,3 kg-m.].
D-104.
Install
Water Outlet Fitting

Install
the thermostat and the water
outlet
fitting.
Torque
the water
outlet
fitting attaching
bolts
20
to 25 lb-ft. [2,8 a 3,4 kg-m.].
FIG.
D-42—INSTALLING HURRICANE F4 ENGINE
IN
VEHICLE

1—
Lifting
Sling
2— Hoist
Cable

3—
Hurricane
F4 Engine
4— Dowel Bolt
5—
Flywheel
Housing
D-105.
ENGINE INSTALLATION
a.
Install
lifting sling to
engine
and using suitable hoist raise the
engine
from its blocking or stand

and
then slowly lower it
into
the
engine
compart­ment of the vehicle.

Note:
When installing the
Hurricane
F4 Engine,
two % x 4 inch
guide
bolts
or
dowels
should be
used to properly
guide
and align the
engine
to the
flywheel housing (See Fig. D-42).
b. Slightly tilt the
engine
downward and at the
same time slide the
engine
rearward
while lining up the transmission main gear shaft with the clutch
throw-out bearing and disc spline.

Note
:The
engine
crankshaft may have to be turned
slightly to align the transmission main gear shaft
with the clutch disc spline.
c. Remove the
guide
bolts
or
dowels
and secure
the
engine
to the housing.

d.
Secure the front
engine
mounts to the frame brackets and
bolt
ground cable to
engine.

e. Remove lifting sling from
engine.

f. Connect exhaust pipe to
engine
manifold flange.
g. Connect throttle and choke cables to carburetor.
h.
Install
fan to water pump pulley.
i.
Connect fuel pump line to main fuel line,

j.
Replace starting motor assembly. k. Connect
engine
wiring harness connectors at
front of cowl.

I.
Connect wires to starting motor assembly, water
temperature and oil pressure sending units and alternator.

NOTE:
ON
ENGINES EQUIPPED WITH EX­

HAUST
EMISSION CONTROL,
REPLACE
THE
AIR
PUMP,
AIR
DISTRIBUTOR
MANI­

FOLD,
AND
ANTI-BACKFIRE (DIVERTER)
VALVE.
SEE
SECTION
Fl.
m. Replace radiator and radiator grille support
rods and connect coolant
hoses
to
engine.

Note:
Replace heater
hoses
if vehicle is equipped
with hot water heater.

n. Fill
radiator with coolant and
engine
with oil
(see
Lubrication
Chart).

o.
Install
air cleaner and connect carburetor air
hose.

p. Connect battery cables and start
engine,

q.
Install
hood
and road
test
vehicle.
D-103.
FINAL
IN-VEHICLE
ADJUSTMENTS
a.
Clean
battery terminals and check battery. b.
Check
ignition terminals and check battery.
c. Service carburetor air cleaner.

d.
Service positive crankcase ventilation valve.
e.
Check
fuel lines. f. Gap and install new
spark
plugs.
g.
Check
distributor
points
and capacitor; replace
if
necessary. 68

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

©©©©©©©©©

12697

FIG.
Dl-1—DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE, SIDE SECTIONAL VIEW

1—
Fan
Blade
2—
Fan
Spacer

3—Fan
Pulley
4—
Water
Pump 5—
Timing
Chain
Cover
6—
Camshaft
Sprocket
7—
Thermostat
Bypass Hose
8—
Thermostat
Housing
9—
Thermostat

10—
Carburetor

11—
Intake
Manifold
12—
Rocker
Arm Cover 13—
Cylinder
Block 14—
Push
Rod
15—
Camshaft

16—
Flywheel
17—
Clutch
Pressure Plate
18—
Clutch
Driven Plate
19—
Clutch
Pilot Bearing
20—
Oil
Seal Packing
21—
Rear
Main
Bearing Shell
22— Connecting Rods
23—
Rear
Center
Main
Bearing Shell
24—
Oil
Screen
25—
Oil
Screen Pipe and Housing
26—
Oil
Pan 27—
Front
Center
Main
Bearing Shell
28—
Crankshaft

29—
Front
Main
Bearing Shell
30—
Timing
Chain

31—
Crankshaft
Sprocket
32—
Oil
Slinger
33—
Oil
Shedder 34 Oil Shedder Packing
35—
-Woodruff
Key
36—
"Vibration
Damper
37—
Crankshaft
Pulley
38—
Fan
Belt matic adjuster, to prevent lash in the valve operat­
ing linkage. Hydraulic valve lifters also provide

a
cushion of oil to absorb operating shocks. As shown in Fig. Dl-3, all parts of a hydraulic lifter

are
housed in the body, which is the cam follower.

At
the beginning of valve operation, the valve lifter body rests on the camshaft base circle.

Plunger
spring tension prevents lash clearances in the valve linkage.

As
the camshaft forces the valve lifter body up­

ward,
both oil in the lower chamber and check

ball
spring
tension firmly seat the check ball against the plunger to prevent appreciable
loss
of oil from
the lower chamber. Oil pressure forces the plunger
upward,
with the body, to operate the valve linkage.

As
the camshaft rotates to closed-valve position, the valve spring forces the linkage and lifter down­

ward.
When the
engine
valve seats, the linkage

parts
and plunger stop, but the plunger spring forces
the body downward .002" to .003"
[0,050
a
0,076
mm.] until it again rests on the camshaft base

circle.
Oil pressure then forces the check ball away

from
its seat and allows passage of oil past the check ball into the lower chamber.
This
replaces
the slight amount of oil lost by leakage. During
the valve opening and closing operation, a very
slight amount of oil escapes
between
plunger and body, and returns to the crankcase.
This
slight
loss
of oil (leak-down) is beneficial. It provides a
gradual
change of oil in the valve lifter; fresh oil
enters the lower chamber at the end of each cycle
of operation. 77

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

12710

FIG.
D1
-3—HYDRAULIC VALVE
LIFTER
ASSEMBLY, CROSS-SECTIONAL VIEW
1—
Snap
Ring
6—Ball Retainer

2— Rod
Seat
7—Plunger Spring

3—
Oil
Inlets
8—Lifter
Body

4—
Plunger
9—Bronzed
Cap
5— Feed
Hole
sages
in the block and cylinder head.

The
water cooled system is pressurized to provide efficient
engine
cooling. It consists of a centrifugal-
type water pump, mounted on the timing chain cover, and is driven by the
engine
fan pulley. The
pump provides coolant flow equally to both
cylin­
der banks under control of a thermostat. Coolant
flow is around the cylinders and through the
cylinder
head to dispel the heat of combustion in
the engine.

Dl-3.
Engine Mounts

The
engine-transmission unit is mounted to the chassis at three points by rubber pads. The two
front mounts are bolted to the
engine
cylinder
block and the frame members. These mounts sup­ port most of the
engine
weight, and absorb
vibra­

tion which would otherwise be caused by changes
in
engine
output torque. The single
rear
mount is
placed
between
the transmission and the trans­ mission support. It supports part of the engine'

and
transmission weight, and locates the
rear
of
the
engine
with respect to the centerline of the
vehicle.

Dl-4. ENGINE REMOVAL
To
remove the
engine
from the vehicle follow the
procedurers listed below:

a.
Remove hood. b. Disconnect battery cables from battery and
engine. c. Remove air cleaner.

d.
Drain
coolant from radiator and engine.
e.
Drain
engine
oil.
f. Disconnect alternator wiring harness from con­ nector at regulator.

cj.
Disconnect the fuel evaporative purge line con­ nected to the
P.C.V.
valve.

h.
Disconnect upper and lower radiator
hoses
from
the engine.

i.
Remove right and left radiator support
bars,

j.
Remove radiator from the vehicle.

k.
Disconnect
engine
wiring harnesses from con­
nectors located on
engine
firewall.
I.
On
engines
equipped with exhaust emission con­

trol,
remove the air pump, air distribution manifold,

and
anti-backfire (gulp) valve. See Section F2 for
procedure.

m.
Disconnect battery cable and wiring from en­

gine
starter assembly.

n.
Remove
engine
starter assembly from engine,

o.
Disconnect
engine
fuel
hoses
from fuel lines at

right
frame
rail,
p. Plug fuel lines.

q.
Disconnect choke cable from carburetor and cable support bracket mounted on engine,
r.
Disconnect exhaust pipes from right and left

engine
manifolds.
s. Place
jack
under transmission and support trans­
mission weight.
f. Remove
bolts
securing
engine
to front motor mounts.

u.
Attach suitable sling to
engine
lifting
eyes
and,
using hoist, support
engine
weight.
v. Remove
bolts
securing
engine
to flywheel housing.
w. Raise
engine
slightly and slide
engine
forward
to remove transmission main shaft from clutch plate spline.

Note:
Engine and transmission must be raised
slightly to release the main shaft from the clutch
plate while sliding the
engine
forward.
x. When
engine
is free of transmission shaft raise

engine
and remove from vehicle,
y. Place
engine
on suitable blocking or
engine
stand and remove sling from engine.

Dl-5.
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

Engine
disassembly is presented in the sequence to be followed when the
engine
is to be completely
overhauled after removal from the vehicle. Some of the operations of the procedure are also appli­cable separately with the
engine
in the vehicle,
provided that wherever necessary the part of the
engine
to be worked on is first made accessible by removal of
engine
accessories or other parts.

When
the disassembly operations are performed
with
the
engine
out of the vehicle, it is assumed,
in
this procedure, that all of the accessories have
been removed
prior
to starting the disassembly and
the oil has been drained.

'Jeep*
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

12713

FIG.
Dl-11—MEASURING
TELESCOPE GAUGE
1—
Telescope
Gauge
2—
Micrometer

may
be measured with an inside micrometer or
by setting the cylinder
gauge
dial
at zero and meas­
uring
across the
gauge
contact points with an out­side micrometer while the
gauge
is at same zero
setting. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-10 and Dl-11.

b.
If a cylinder bore is moderately rough or slightly

scored,
but is not out-of-round or tapered, it is

usually
possible to remedy the situation by honing
the bore to fit a standard service piston, since
standard
service pistons are high-limit production
pistons. If cylinder bore is very rough or deeply
scored,
it may be necessary to rebore the cylinder
to fit an oversize piston in order to ensure satisfac­
tory
results.

c.
If cylinder bore is tapered .005" [0,127 mm.]

or
more or is out-of-round .003" [0,076 mm.] or

more,
it is advisable to rebore for the smallest possible oversize piston and rings.

d.
Carefully
inspect the cylinder block for small

cracks
or fractures, and for porosity.
Rust
in any
cylinder
bore may indicate a leak.

e.
Inspect all machined surfaces for scoring and

burrs.
With
a straight
edge
and feeler
gauge,
check
each
machined surface for distortion.

D1-37.
Cylinder Block Repair
If
one or more cylinder bores are rough, scored, or

worn
beyond prescribed limits, it
will
be necessary
to correct bores and fit new pistons.

If
relatively few bores require correction, it
will

not be necessary to rebore all cylinders to the same
oversize in order to maintain
engine
balance, since
all
oversize pistons are held to the same weights as

standard-size
pistons. If conditions justify replace­
ment of all pistons, however, all new pistons should
be the same nominal size.

Standard-size
service pistons are high-limit, or

maximum
diameter; therefore, they can usually be installed after a slight amount of honing has
been
done
to correct slight scoring or excessive

clearances.
This
applies
primarily
to
engines
which
have relatively low mileage. Service pistons are also furnished in .010"
[0,254
mm.] oversize. All

service
pistons are diamond bored, and selectively
fitted with piston pins; pistons are not furnished
without pins.

Caution:
Do not attempt to cut down oversize pis­

tons
to fit cylinder bores as this
will
destroy the

surface
treatment and affect the weight. The small­
est possible oversize service pistons should be used

and
the cylinder bores should be honed to size

for
proper clearance.

Before
honing or reboring cylinders, measure all new pistons with a micrometer, on an axis perpen­

dicular
to the piston pin. Select the smallest piston

for
the first fitting. The slight variation usually
found between pistons in a set may provide for
correction
in case the first piston tried is too

small.

If
wear at top of cylinder
does
not exceed .005" [0,127 mm.]
excess
diameter, or exceed .003"
[0,076 mm.] out-of-round, honing is recommended.

If
wear or out-of-round
exceeds
these
limits, the
bore should be reground with a boring bar of the

fly
cutter type, then finish-honed.

When
reboring cylinders, all crankshaft bearing caps must be in place and tightened to proper
torque to avoid distortion of bores in
final
assem­
bly.
Always be sure the crankshaft is out of the

way
of the boring cutter when boring each cylinder.
When
boring, leave the diameter .001" [0,025 mm.]

undersize,
then finish hone to obtain the required

clearance.

When
honing cylinders, use clean sharp
stones
of
proper
grade for the amount of metal to be re­
moved. Refer to instructions supplied by the hone
manufacturer.
Dull
or dirty
stones
cut unevenly

and
generate excessive heat. When using coarse

or
medium grade
stones,
leave sufficient metal so
that all
stone
marks can be removed with the fine
stones
used to finish-hone to proper clearance.

When
finish-honing, pass the hone through the entire length of cylinder at a rate of approximately 60 cycles per minute.
This
should produce the

desired
45-degree
cross hatch pattern on cylinder

walls.
A proper pattern
will
ensure maximum
ring
life and minimum oil consumption.

After
final
honing and before the piston is checked

for
fit, each cylinder bore must be washed thor­ oughly to remove all traces of abrasive, then dried completely. The dry bore should be brushed clean

with
a power-driven fibre
brush.
If all traces of

abrasive
are not removed,
rapid
wear of new pistons

and
rings
will
result.

Note:
Wipe cylinder bores with a clean white

cloth,
moistened with SAE 10 oil. Cleaning should
continue until this
test
shows no sign of
dirt.

It
is of the greatest importance that refinished

cylinder
bores be true, with .0005" [0,013 mm.]
or
less out-of-round or taper.
Each
bore must have

a
smooth surface, without
stone
or cutter
marks.
After
final
honing and cleaning, each piston must be fitted individually to the bore in which it
will

be installed. Once fitted, each piston should be
marked
with its cylinder number to assure correct

installation.
85

Dl

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE
Dl-38.
Crankshaft
Cleaning

Clean
the crankshaft thoroughly with a suitable
cleaning solvent.
Clean
drilled oil
passages
in its

journals
with a small rifle brush to remove all
sludge
or gum deposits; dry
passages
with com­
pressed air.

Dl-39.
Crankshaft
Inspection
and
Repair

If
the crankshaft has not
been
removed from the

cylinder
block for inspection, disconnect two con­ necting rods at a time from crankshaft. Inspect
the bearings and crankpin journals. While turning
crankshaft,
it is necessary to temporarily reconnect
the rods to crankshaft to avoid possibility of dam­ aging the journals through contact with uncon­
nected rods.
Inspect the crankpins visually for excessive or ir­

regular
wear, and for scoring. Use an
outside
micrometer to check crankpins for out-of-round.
Standard
crankpin
diameter is
2.0000"
[5,080
cm.].

If
crankpins are more than .0015"
[0,0381
mm.]
out-of-round, new bearings cannot be
expected
to
have satisfactory life.
If
the crankshaft has
been
removed from the
cyl­

inder
block for inspection support it on V-blocks
at its main bearing journals 1 and 4. Inspect the

main
bearing journals visually for excessive or ir­

regular
wear, and for scoring. Standard main bear­
ing
journal
diameter is 2.4995"
[6,349
cm.].
Total

indicator readings at each
journal
should not ex­
ceed .003"
[0,076
mm.].

Check
run out at all four journals and
note
high
spot
(maximum eccentricity) of each
journal.
High

spot
of each
journal
should
come
at the same
angular
location. If high
spots
do not coincide,

crankshaft
is misaligned and unsatisfactory for
service.

If
crankpin or main bearing journals are scored,
ridged, or out-of-round, the crankshaft must be replaced or reground to a standard undersize bear­
ing diameter to ensure satisfactory life of bearings. Slight roughness can be removed with a fine grit
polishing cloth thoroughly
wetted
with
engine
oil.
Burrs
can
be
honed with a fine oil
stone,
so long as
bearing clearances
will
remain within specified
limits.

Dl-40.
Crankshaft
Main
Bearings

A
crankshaft bearing consists of two halves which
are
neither alike nor interchangeable. One half is

carried
in the corresponding main bearing cap; the
other half is located
between
the crankshaft and

cylinder
block. The upper (cylinder block) half
of the bearing is grooved to supply oil to the con­ necting rod bearings, while the lower (bearing cap)

half
of the bearing is not grooved. The two bearing
halves must not be interchanged. All crankshaft
bearings
except
the thrust bearing and the
rear

main
bearing are identical. The thrust bearing (No. 2) is longer and it is flanged to take
crank­

shaft end thrust. When the bearing halves are
placed in cylinder block and bearing cap, the
ends
extend slightly beyond the parting surfaces. When
cap
bolts
are tightened, the halves are clamped
tightly in place to ensure positive seating and to
prevent turning. The
ends
of bearing halves must never be filed flush with parting surface of
crank­

case or bearing cap.

Crankshaft
bearings are the precision type which
do not require reaming to size or other fitting.
Shims
are not provided for adjustment since worn
bearings are readily replaced with new bearings of proper size. Bearings for service replacement are

furnished
in standard size and undersizes. Under no circumstances should crankshaft bearing caps
be filed to adjust for wear in old bearings.

Dl-41.
Crankshaft
Main
Bearing
Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
main bearing surfaces. Inspect the bearings

visually
for excessive or uneven wear, scoring, and

flaking.
Visibly worn or damaged bearings must
be replaced. It is necessary to check
radial
clear­ ance of each new or used crankshaft main bearing
before installation.
This
can be
done
by either of two methods, which are described in
Pars.
Dl-42

and
Dl-43.

a.
The desired
radial
clearance of a new bearing
is .0005" to .0021"
[0,0127
a
0,0534
mm.].
b. Replacement bearings are furnished in standard
size, and in several undersizes, including undersizes
for reground journals. If a new bearing is to be installed, try a standard size; then try each under­
size in turn until one is found that
meets
the
specified clearance limits.

Note:
Each
undersize bearing half has a number
stamped on its outer surface to indicate amount of undersize. Refer to Fig. Dl-12. 14288

FIG.
Dl-12—LOCATION
OF
UNDERSIZE
MARK
ON
BEARING
SHELL

1—
Tang

2—
Undersize
Mark
Dl-42.
Main
Bearing
Fitting,
Plastigage

Bearing
clearance can be checked by use of Plasti­
gage,
Type PG-1 (green) which has a range of
.001" to .003" [0,025 a
0,076
mm.]. Refer to

Fig.
Dl-13.

a.
Place a piece of Plastigage lengthwise along the
bottom
center of the lower bearing half, then 86

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL
Dl
A 8

j
13415

FIG.
Dl-13—USING
PLASTIGAGE
TO
MEASURE
BEARING CLEARANCE

1— Plastigage
A—Start

2—
Scale
B—Flattened

install
cap with shell and tighten
bolts
80 to 110 lb-ft. [11,1 a 15,2 kg-m.] torque.

Caution:
Do not turn crankshaft with Plastigage

in
bearing.

b.
Remove bearing cap with bearing half. The
flattened Plastigage
will
adhere either to the bear­ ing half or the
journal.
Do not remove it.
c. Using the scale printed on the Plastigage en­

velope,
measure Plastigage width at its widest
point. The number within the graduation which
most
closely corresponds to the width of Plasti­
gage
indicates the bearing clearance in thousandths
of an inch.

DI-43.
Main Bearing
Fitting,
Feeler or
Shim
Stock

A
small strip of feeler or shim stock can be used
to check main bearing clearance. The method is
simple, but care must be taken to avoid damage
to the bearing surface from excessive pressure against the strip.

a.
Cut a rectangular piece of feeler or shim stock, .001"
[.0254
mm.] thick,
i/2"
[12,70
mm.] wide, and
Vs"
[3,175 mm.] shorter than the bearing width.
Position the bearing cap to the crankshaft journal
and
cylinder block, and install two cap
bolts
loosely.

b.
Tighten alternate cap bolts, a little at a time,

until
both have
been
tightened to 35 to 45 lb-ft. [4,8 a 6,2 kg-m.] torque.
c.
Turn
the crankshaft by hand, no more than one

inch
[2,5 cm.] in either direction.

Caution:
If the crankshaft is turned too far, it
will

embed the strip in the bearing surface.
This
will
damage the bearing and also cause a false indica­tion of bearing clearance.

If
bearing clearance is correct, the strip should cause a light to heavy drag, or resistance to rotation.
If
there is little or no drag, clearance is too great;

if
the crankshaft cannot be turned, clearance is
insufficient. In either case, a different main bear­ ing must be
selected
to obtain proper clearance.

d.
Repeat
steps
a, b, and c, as necessary, to
select

proper main bearing size. After a bearing has
been

selected, remove the
test
strip from bearing on
crankshaft
journal surface; wipe both surfaces care­

fully,
and apply clean
engine
oil to both surfaces. Position the bearing cap to the crankshaft journal

and
cylinder block, and install two cap
bolts
loosely.

Tighten
alternate cap bolts, a little at a time, to

final
specified torque of 80 to 110 lb-ft. [11,1 a 15,2 kg-m.]. The crankshaft should now rotate
freely.

Dl-44.
Piston
and
Connecting
Rod
Disassembly

a.
Remove two compression rings with a piston
ring
expander. To remove oil ring, remove the two

rails
and spacer-expander, which are separate
pieces

in
each piston third
groove.

b.
From
Tool Set W-338 use support base J-6047-1
with collar J-6047-5 and driver J-6047-4 with an
arbor
press to press piston pin from piston and con­
necting rod. Mount support base and collar in press. Set driver in position and press out pin. Refer to

Fig.
Dl-14.
FIG.
Dl-14—PISTON
PIN
REMOVAL

1—
Arbor
Press

2—
Driver

3—
Piston
and Rod Assembly
4—
Collar
•
5—Support Base Dl-45.
Piston
and
Connecting
Rod
Cleaning
and Inspection

a.
Clean
carbon from piston surfaces and under­
side of piston heads, and remove all pistons rings.
Clean
carbon from ring
grooves
with a suitable tool.
Remove any gum or varnish from piston skirts with a suitable solvent.

b.
Carefully examine pistons for rough or scored
bearing surfaces, cracks in
skirt
or head, cracked

or
broken ring lands, chipping and uneven wear 87

Pi

DAUNTLESS
¥-6
ENGINE
which
would cause rings to seat improperly or have
excessive clearance in
ring
grooves. Damaged or
faulty
pistons should be replaced,
c.
Inspect bearing surfaces of piston pins and check

for
wear by measuring worn and unworn surfaces

with
a micrometer. Rough or worn pins should be
replaced.
Test fit the piston pins in piston
bosses.
Occasionally,
a pin
will
be tight due to gum or

varnish
deposits.
This
may be corrected by remov­

ing
the deposit with a suitable solvent. If piston
bosses
are worn out-of-round or oversize, the piston

and
pin assembly must be replaced. Oversize pins
are
not
practical,
since the pin must be a press fit
in
the connecting rod bore. Piston pins must fit the
piston with an easy finger push at
70°F.
[21°C.].

They
should have .0004" to .0007"
[0,0178
a
0,0102
mm.] clearance.

Dl-46.
Piston Fitting

If
cylinder bores are rebored or heavily honed,
new and possibly oversize diameter pistons must be
installed.
A new piston must be fitted to its cylinder

bore.
A satisfactory method of fitting pistons is as
follows.

a.
Expand
a
telescope
gauge
to fit the cylinder bore at right angles to the piston pin and
between
1
Vi"
to 2" [3,7 a 5,1 cm.] from the top.

b.
Measure diameter of the piston to be fitted, as
shown in
Fig.
Dl-15. The piston must be measured

at
right angles to the piston pin, W [6,3 mm.] below the oil
ring
groove. The piston must be be-
FIG.
Dl-15—MEASURING
PISTON

1—90°
tween .001" and .0015" [0,025 a
0,038
mm.]

smaller
than the cylinder bore.

Note:
Both cylinder block and piston must be at

very
nearly the same temperature when measure­
ments are made or
errors
due to expansion
will
occur.
A difference of 10°F.
[5,6°C]
between
parts
is sufficient to produce a variation of .0009"
[0,0023
mm.].

The
pistons are cam-ground, which means that the
diameter at a right angle to the piston pin is
greater
than the diameter
parallel
to the piston

pin.
When a piston is checked for size, it must be
measured
with a micrometer applied to the
skirt

along a line
perpendicular
to axis of the piston pin.

Dl-47.
Piston Ring Fitting

When
new piston rings are to be installed without

reboring
cylinders,
the glazed cylinder walls should
be slightly dulled. However, cylinder bore diameter
should
not increase more than necessary.
Cylinder

walls
should be honed with the finest grade of
stone
to remove any glaze.
New compression rings must be checked for clear­ ance in piston
grooves
and for gap in cylinder bores;
however, the flexible oil rings are not checked for gap. The cylinder bores and piston
grooves
must
be clean, dry, and free of carbon and
burrs.

With
rings installed on piston, check clearance in
grooves
by inserting feeler
gauge
between
each
ring

and
its lower
land.
Any
ring
groove
wear
will
form

a
step
at inner portion of the lower
land.
If the
piston
grooves
have worn enough that relatively

high
steps
exist on the lower lands, the piston
should
be replaced because the
steps
will
interfere

with
proper operation of new rings and the
ring
clearances
will
be excessive. Piston rings are not

furnished
in oversize widths to compensate for
ring
groove
wear.

When
fitting new rings to new pistons, the side

clearance
of the compression rings should be .002" to .0035"
[0,051
a
0,089
mm.] for number one (1)

ring,
.003" to .005" [0,076 a 0,127 mm.] for number
two (2)
ring,
and side clearance of the oil
ring
should
be .0015" to .0085" [0,038 a
0,220
mm.].

To
check the end gap of a compression
ring,
place

it
in the cylinder in which it
will
be used, square

it
in the bore by tapping with the lower end of
a
piston, then measure the gap with a feeler
gauge.

A
compression
ring
should not have
less
than .015"
[0,381
mm.] gap when placed in cylinder

bore.
If gap is
less
than specified value, file the
end of the
ring
carefully with a fine file to obtain

proper
gap.

Dl-48.
Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly

Note:
A connecting rod can spring out of alignment

in
shipping or handling. Always check a new con­
necting rod for misalignment before installing pis­
ton and pin.

a.
If a new connecting rod is to be installed, check
its alignment with an accurate rod alignment fix­

ture.

b.
If the piston and connecting rod assembly is
to be installed in the left cylinder bank, it must be assembled as shown in
Fig.
Dl-16. If the piston and
connecting rod assembly is to be installed in the
right
cylinder bank, it must be assembled as shown
in
Fig. Dl-17.
Note
that
these
two assemblies are

mirror-images
of each other.

c.
Lubricate
piston pin to avoid damage when

pressing
through the connecting rod.

d.
To install piston pin in piston and connecting

rod,
use
Tool
Set W-338.
Install
collar J-6047-5,
spring
J-6047-3, and pilot J-6047-20 into the base

support
J-6047-1 and place in
arbor
press. Using

driver
J-6047-4 press piston pin into piston and 88

DAUNTLESS
V-6
ENGINE

Note:
The rib on
edge
of cap and the conical
boss

on web of connecting rod must be toward
rear
of
engine
in all connecting rod assemblies of left
cyl­

inder
bank and toward front of
engine
in all con­necting rod assemblies of right cylinder bank.

Dl-50.
Oil
Pump Intake
and
Screen Cleaning

a.
Pry screen from housing and examine for clog­
ging due to deposit of sludge or other foreign

material.

b.
Clean
the screen and housing thoroughly in sol­
vent; dry with compressed air.

c.
Install
screen in housing.

Dl-51.
Oil Pan Cleaning and Inspection

Inspect
the oil pan for corrosion, dents, leaks, and
other damage. Inspect its mounting flange carefully
for damage or distortion to be certain that it
will
give
a
good
seal.

Dl-52.
Flywheel Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
the flywheel with suitable cleaning solvent;

dry
with compressed air. Inspect clutch face for

burned
or scuffed condition and for rivet grooves.
Inspection
for run out or improper mounting is de­

scribed
in installation procedure.
Inspect
teeth
of the flywheel
ring
gear for
burrs,

nicks,
and minor distortion. If necessary and pos­
sible, use a small emery wheel to remove
burrs
and
reshape teeth. If gear
teeth
are broken,
cracked,

seriously
burred
or deformed, the
ring
gear must be replaced.

Dl-53.
Ring Gear Replacement

a.
Drill
a
hole
between
two
ring
gear teeth; then

split
the gear with a cold chisel. Be careful not to
damage
ring
gear shoulder or seat surfaces of fly­
wheel.

b.
Polish several
spots
on the new
ring
gear to be

installed.
With
a hot plate or slowly moving torch,
heat the new
ring
gear until polished
spots
become

blue, about
600°F.
[312°C.].

Caution:
Do not heat the
ring
gear to a temperature
greater than
800°F.
[424°C.].
Excessive heat
will

destroy heat treatment given to
ring
gear during
manufacture.

c.
Quickly
install
ring
gear on flywheel. Chamfered

edge
of
ring
gear must be toward
ring
gear shoulder
of flywheel. Be certain that
ring
gear is seated prop­

erly.
Allow
ring
gear to cool slowly, so that it
will

be held tightly in place.

Dl-54.
Flywheel Housing Cleaning and Inspection

Both
flywheel and clutch are enclosed by a fly­
wheel housing. Its front surface is bolted to the
engine
cylinder block, and its
rear
surface acts as

front
support to the transmission.
Clean
the fly­ wheel housing with a suitable cleaning solvent; dry
with
compressed air. Inspect front and
rear
surfaces
for distortion and improper alignment with each
other;
these
planes must be
parallel
to assure
proper
alignment
between
engine
and transmission.
Dl-55.
Camshaft Cleaning
and
Inspection

Clean
both camshaft and camshaft bearing surfaces

with
a suitable cleaning solvent; dry with com­
pressed air.

Note:
The steel-backed babbitt-lined camshaft
bearings are pressed into the crankcase.
From
front
to
rear,
each bearing is .030" [0,76 mm.] smaller
in
diameter than the preceding bearing.
From
front
to
rear,
each camshaft
journal
is correspondingly
smaller
in diameter.

The
camshaft bearings must be line reamed to

proper
diameter after being pressed into crankcase.
Since
this operation requires special reaming equip­
ment, the original bearings should be retained un­
less
they are severly damaged. Slightly scored cam­
shaft bearings are satisfactory if the surfaces of camshaft journals are polished, bearings are
polished to remove
burrs,
and
radial
clearance

between
camshaft and bearings is within .0015"
to .004" [0,038 a 0,102 mm.].

Dl-56.
Valve Lifter
and
Push
Rod
Cleaning and Inspection
a.
Examine the cam contact surface at lower end of each valve lifter body. If surface is excessively

worn,
galled, or otherwise damaged, discard the
valve lifter. Also examine the mating camshaft
lobe
for excessive wear or damage.

b.
Disassemble one or two valve lifters, as de­

scribed
below, and inspect them for
dirt
or
varnish.
If
they are dirty or have a varnish deposit, clean

and
inspect all twelve valve lifters. Otherwise,
service
only
those
valve lifters which do not operate

properly.

c.
To disassemble each valve lifter, depress the
push
rod seat with a push rod, and remove the
plunger retainer from the valve lifter body with

a
retainer remover. Remove push rod seat and
plunger from valve lifter body. If plunger sticks
in
valve lifter body, place body in large end of

a
plunger remover tool, with plunger downward.
While
holding lifter with thumb, rap the open end
of remover against a block of wood with just enough force to jar the plunger from body. Refer to
Figs.
Dl-20, Dl-22 and Dl-23.

d.
Drain
oil from valve lifter and remove the check
valve retainer,
ball,
valve spring, and plunger
spring.

e. Keep all parts of each valve lifter separated

during
part cleaning and inspection. The valve

lifter
body and plunger are selectively fitted to each other and must not be interchanged with parts
of other valve lifters.
f. Rinse all valve lifter parts in kerosene to remove as much oil as possible.
This
will
reduce contamina­
tion of the cleaning solvent. Immerse all parts in cleaning solvent for approximately one hour. The
time required
will
depend on varnish
deposits
and
effectiveness
of the solvent. After the varnish has
dissolved or has
softened
sufficiently to permit re­

moval
by wiping, allow parts to
drain.
Varnish
can
then be cleaned from the valve lifter body
with
a
brush.
Rinse the parts in kerosene to dissolve 90

'Jeep'
UNIVERSAL
SERIES SERVICE
MANUAL

Dl

12712

FIG.
D1-20—REMOVING
PLUNGER
FROM
VALVE
LIFTER
BODY
1— Body 3—Support Tool
2—
Plunger
4—Wood Block the cleaning solvent. Wipe all parts, as necessary,
to dry them and remove any traces of varnish.

Note:
To promote cleanliness, it is advisable to
inspect and assemble each valve lifter before clean­
ing the next valve lifter.
g. Inspect inner and outer surfaces of valve lifter
body for blow
holes
and scoring. Replace valve lifter assembly if body is roughly scored or grooved,

or
if it has a wall blow
hole
which would permit oil
leakage from lower chamber. The prominent wear
pattern just above lower end of body is not a
defect

unless it is definitely grooved or scored; it is caused
by side thrust of cam against body while the lifter

moves
vertically in its guide. A valve lifter body
which
has rotated in its guide
will
have a horizontal

wear
pattern, while a non-rotating body
will
have
a
square wear pattern with a very slight depression

near
the center. Inspect the cam contact surface on lower end of lifter body. Replace the valve lifter
assembly if this surface is excessively worn, galled

or
otherwise damaged.

Note:
Fig. Dl-21 illustrates the wear pattern of the
rotating and non-rotating valve lifters. The two
illustrations shown under B, "Normal Wear Pat­

terns"
are the conditions encountered under general
use and replacement is not warranted unless the depth of the
groove
formed by the cam
lobe
is in

excess
of .020" [0,51 mm.] or the lifters do not
operate properly. The two illustrations shown under

A,
"Incorrect Wear Patterns" are normally accom­ panied by excessive wear or scoring of the respec­
tive camshaft lobe.
This
type of wear is unsatis­
factory and lifter replacement is necessary.

h.
Inspect outer surface of plunger for scratches

or
score marks.
Small
score marks with rough
satiny finish
will
cause the plunger to seize when 12751

FIG.
D1-21—HYDRAULIC
VALVE
LIFTER
WEAR PATTERNS
A—Incorrect
Wear Patterns B—Normal Wear Patterns
1—
Galled
and Pitted 3—Wear .020" Maximum
2— Soft 4—Rotating
5—Non-Rotating
hot but operate normally when cool. Using a magni­
fying glass, inspect the check ball seat for defects.
Defects in check ball seat, or scores or scratches on
outer surface of plunger which can be felt with

a
fingernail, are reason to replace the valve lifter
assembly.
This
does
not apply to the slight
edge

which
may
sometimes
be present when the lower end of plunger
extends
below the ground inner
sur­

face of the body.
This
edge
is not detrimental un­

less
it is sharp or burred. A blackened appearance
is not necessarily a defective condition. Sometimes

such
a discoloration
gives
the outer surface of
plunger a ridged or fluted appearance. If the condi­
tion
does
not cause improper operation, it may be
disregarded.

i.
Replace the push rod seat if the area contacted
by the push rod is rough or otherwise damaged.
Replace
any push rod which has a rough or dam­
aged ball end.

j.
Using a magnifying glass, carefully examine the
check valve ball for nicks, imbedded material or
other
defects
which would prevent proper seating.
Such
defects
would cause intermittently noisy
operation.
Even
though no
defects
are found, it is
always advisable to discard the old ball and use

a
new one when reassembling the valve lifter,
k.
Examine check valve spring for wear or damage.

Replace
spring if it is distorted or shows evidence
of wear.

I.
Replace a check valve retainer if cracked or if

it
has heavily pounded area
between
the two holes.

A
small bright
spot
where the ball contacts the

retainer
is the normal condition.

m.
Replace the plunger spring only if it is distorted

or
damaged. Tests have shown the plunger springs
seldom break down in service.

n.
Rinse lifter plunger in kerosene. Hold plunger

in
vertical position with
feed
hole
upward, then 91