ignition MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Repair Manual

HOW TO USE THIS BOOK 1-2
WHERE TOBEGIN l-2
AVOIDINGTROUBLE 1-2
MAINTENANCEORREPAIR? 1-2
AVOIDINGTHEMOSTCOMMONMISTAKES l-2
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 1-2
SPECIALTOOLS l-4
YOUR VEHICLE SAFELY 1-4
DON'TS l-6
FASTENERS, MEASUREMENTS AND
CONVERSIONS l-6
BOLTS,NUTSANDOTHERTHREADED
RETAINERS 1-6
TORQUE l-7
TORQUEWRENCHES l-7
TORQUEANGLEMETERS 1-9
STANDARDANDMETRIC MEASUREMENTS l-9
SERIAL NUMBER IDENTIFICATION l-10
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER l-10
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER I-10
TRANSAXLEIDENTIFICATION I-10
DRlVEAXLE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-10
TRANSFERCASE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-10
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP l-14
AIRCLEANER(ELEMENT) 1-14
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 1-14
FUELFILTER 1-15
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION l-15
PCVVALVE l-15
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION l-15
EVAPORATIVECANISTER l-16
SERVICING 1-16
BATTERY 1-16
PRECAUTIONS I-16
GENERALMAINTENANCE 1-16
BEL BATTERYFLUID 1-16
CABLES I-17
CHARGING I-18
REPLACEMENT 1-18
TS 1-18
INSPECTiON l-18
ADJUSTMENT 1-18
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 1-18
TIMINGBELTS l-20
INSPECTION l-20
HOSES I-20
INSPECTION l-20
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
CV-BOOTS 1-21
INSPECTION l-21
SPARKPLUGS l-22
SPARKPLUGHEATRANGE
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
INSPECTION &GAPPING 1.
SPARKPLUG WIRES 1-24
TESTING 1-24
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
DISTRIBUTORCAPANDROTOR
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
INSPECTION 1-25
IGNITIONTIMING 1-25
. GENERALINFORAMTION l-
lNSPECTlON&ADJUSTMENl
VALVE LASH l-27
ADJUSTMENT l-27
IDLESPEED 1-28 1-21
l-22
l-22
-23
1-24
l-25
l-25
.25
1-26
AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM 1-28
SYSTEMSERVlCEiiREPAlR l-28
PREVENTIVEMAINTENANCE 1-28
SYSTEM INSPECTION l-29
WINDSHIELD WIPERS l-29
ELEMENT(REFILL)CARE&
REPLACEMENT l-29
TIRESANDWHEELS l-30
TIRE ROTATION I-30
TIRE DESIGN 1-31
TIRESTORAGE l-31
INFLATION &INSPECTION l-31
CARE OFSPECIALWHEELS l-32 OPERATION INFOREIGNCOUNTRIES l-33
ENGINE l-33
OILLEVELCHECK 1-33
OIL& FILTER CHANGE l-34
MANUALTRANSAXLE l-35
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-35
LEVELCHECK l-35
DRAIN&REFILL l-36
AUTOMATICTRANSAXLE l-36
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-36
LEVELCHECK 1-36
DRAIN&REFILL l-36
PAN & FILTERSERVICE 1-36
TRANSFERCASE(AWDGAlANT ONLY) l-38
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-38
LEVELCHECK l-38
DRAIN&REFILL l-38
REARDRlVEAXLE(AWDGALANTONLY) l-38
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-38
LEVELCHECK l-38
DRAIN&REFILL l-38
COOLINGSYSTEM l-39
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-39
iM-41
FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS 1-33
FLUID DISPOSAL 1-33
FlJELANDENGlNEOILRECOMMENDATlONS
ENGINE OIL l-33
FUEL l-33

I-4 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
Fig. 12 A screw-in type compression gauge- Fig. 13 A vacuum/pressure tester is neces-
is recommended for compression testing sary for many testing procedures
Fig. 14 Most modern automotive multime-
ters incorporate many helpful features
your workbench. Some useful household items are: a
large turkey baster or siphon, empty coffee cans and
ice trays (to store parts), ball of twine, electrical tape
for wiring, small rolls of colored tape for tagging lines
or hoses, markers and pens, a note pad, golf tees (for
plugging vacuum lines), metal coat hangers or a roll
of mechanic’s wire (to hold things out of the way),
dental pick or similar long, pointed probe, a strong
magnet, and a small mirror (to see into recesses and
under manifolds).
A more advanced set of tools, suitable for tune-up
work, can be drawn up easily. While the tools are
lmvl Fig. 15 Proper information is vital, so at
ways have a Chiiton Total Car Care manua
handy
l Feeler aauoes for valve adiustment
* Timing-light.
The choice of a timing fight should be made
carefully. A light which works on the DC current
supplied by the vehicle’s battery is the best choice;
it should have a xenon tube for brightness. On any
vehicle with an electronic ignition system, a timing
light with an inductive pickup that clamps around
the No. 1 spark plug cable is preferred.
In addition to these basic tools, there are several
other tools and gauges you may find useful. These
include:
l Compression gauge. The screw-in type is
slower to use, but eliminates the possibility of a
fauliy reading due to escaping pressure.
l Manifold vacuum gauge. l 12V test light. l A combination volt/ohmmeter l induction Ammeter. This is used for determin-
ing whether or not there is current in a wire. These
are handy for use if a wire is broken somewhere in a
wiring harness.
As a final note, vou will orobablv find a torque
wrench necessary for all but the most basic work.
The beam type models are perfectly adequate, al-
though the newer click types (breakaway) are easier
to use. The click type torque wrenches tend to be
more expensive. Also keep in mind that all types of
torque wrenches should be periodically checked
and/or recalibrated. You will have to decide for your-
self which better fits your pocketbook, and purpose.
ilightly more sophisticated, they need not be outra-
feously expensive. There are several inexpensive
achldwell meters on the market that are every bit as
Toad for the average mechanic as a professional
nodel. Just be sure that it goes to a least 1200-1500
pm on the tach scale and that it works on 4,6 and 8-
:ylinder engines. The key to these purchases is to
nake them with an eye towards adaptability and wide
ange. A basic list of tune-up tools could include:
l Tach/dwell meter. l Spark plug wrench and gapping tool. Normally, the use of special factory tools is
avoided for repair procedures, since these are not
readily available for the do-it-yourself mechanic.
When it is possible to perform the job with more
commonly available tools, it will be pointed out, but
occasionally, a special tool was designed to perform
a specific function and should be used. Before sub-
stituting another tool, you should be convinced that
neither your safety nor the performance of the vehicle
will be compromised.
Special tools can usually be purchased from an
automotive parts store or from your dealer. In some
cases special tools may be available directly from the
tool manufacturer.
p See Figures 16, 17, 16, and 19
It is virtually impossible to anticipate all of the haz-
ards involved with automotive maintenance and ser-
vice, but care and common sense will prevent most
accidents.
The rules of safety for mechanics range from “don’t
smoke around gasoline,” to “use the proper tool(s) for
the job.” The trick to avoiding injuries is to develop
safe work habits and to take every possible precaution.
Do keep a fire extinguisher and first aid kit
l handy.
Do wear safety glasses or goggles when cut- l ting, drilling, grinding or prying, even if you have
20-20 vision. If you wear glasses for the sake of vi-
sion, wear safety goggles over your regular glasses.
l Do shield your eyes whenever you work around
the battery. Batteries contain sulfuric acid. In case of
contact with the eyes or skin, flush the area with water
or a mixture of water and baking soda, then seek im-
mediate medical attention.
l Do use safety stands (jackstands) for any un-
dervehicle service. Jacks are for raising vehicles;
jackstands are for making sure the vehicle stays
raised until you want it to come down. Whenever the
vehicle is raised, block the wheels remaining on the
ground and set the parking brake.
l Do use adequate ventilation when working
with any chemicals or hazardous materials, Like car-
bon monoxide, the asbestos dust resulting from
some brake lining wear can be hazardous in suffi-
cient quantities.
l Do disconnect the negative battery cable when
working on the electrical system. The secondary ig- nition system contains EXTREMELY HIGH VOLT-
AGE. In some cases it can even exceed 50,000 volts.
l Do follow manufacturer’s directions whenever
working with potentially hazardous materials. Most
chemicals and fluids are poisonous if taken inter-
nally.
l Do properly maintain your tools. Loose ham-
merheads, mushroomed punches and chisels, frayed
or poorly grounded electrical cords, excessively
worn screwdrivers, spread wrenches (open end),
cracked sockets, slipping ratchets, or faulty droplight
sockets can cause accidents.
* Likewise, keep your tools clean; a greasy
wrench can slip off a bolt head, ruining the bolt and
often harming your knuckles in the process.
l Do use the proper size and type of tool for the
job at hand. Do select a wrench or socket that fits the
nut or bolt. The wrench or socket should sit straight,
not cocked.

l-22 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
tears. If the boot is damaged, it should be replaced
trode is to the block’s cooling passages) the cooler it
your driving is long distance, high speed travel, use a
immediately. Please refer to Section 7 for procedures.
will operate. A plug that absorbs little heat and re-
colder plug; if most of your driving is stop and go,
mains too cool will quickly accumulate deposits of
use a hotter plug. Original equipment plugs are gen-
oil and carbon since it is not hot enough to burn
erally a good compromise between the 2 styles and
them off. This leads to plug fouling and consequently
most people never have the need to change their
to misfiring. A plug that absorbs too much heat will
plugs from the factory-recommended heat range.
ti See Figure 88 have no deposits but, due to the excessive heat, the
,electrodes will burn away quickly and might possibly
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
A typical spark plug consists of a metal shell sur- lead to preignition or other ignition problems. Preig-
rounding a ceramic insulator. A metal electrode ex- nition takes place when plug tips get so hot that they
ti See Figures 90 thru 95
tends downward through the center of the insulator glow sufficiently to ignite the air/fuel mixture before
and protrudes a small distance. Located at the end of the actual spark occurs. This early ignition will usu- A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement
the plug and attached to the side of the outer metal ally cause a pinging during low speeds and heavy after about 20,000-30,000 miles (32,000-48,000
shell is the side electrode. The side electrode bends loads. km), depending on your style of driving. In normal
in at a 90” angle so that its tip is just past and paral- The general rule of thumb for choosing the correct operation plug gap increases about 0.001 in.
lel to the tio of the center electrode. The distance be- heat range when picking a spark plug is: if most of (0.025mrn) for every 2,500 miles
(4,000 km). As the
tween these two electrodes (measured in thousandths
of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter) is called the
spark piug gap.
The spark plug does not produce a spark, but in-
steed provides a gap across which the current can
arc. The coil produces anywhere from 20,000 to
50,000 volts (depending on the type and application)
which travels through the wires to the spark plugs.
The current passes along the center electrode and
jumps the gap to the side electrode, and in doing so,
ignites the air/fuel mixture in the combustion charn-
ber.
SPARKPLUG HEATRANGE
ti See Figure 89
Spark plug heat range is the ability of the plug to
dissipate heat. The longer the insulator (or the farther
INSULATOR CRACKS
OFTEN OCCUR HERE
SIDE ELECTRODE ENTER ELECTRODE:
(SEND TO ADJUST GAP) FILE FLAT WHEN
ADJUSTING GAP;
DO NOT BEND
Fig. 88 Cross-section of a spark plug
it extends into the engine), the hotter the plug will
operate; the shorter the insulator (the closer the elec- Fig. 90 Carefully twist the boot end of the
I
spark plug wire and withdraw the spark plug
wire boot from the cylinder head
Fig. 92 A locking extension such as this is
extremely helpful when removing spark
plugs that are centrally located in the cyhn-
Fig. 94 . . .
then carefully withdraw the
spark plug from the engine Fig. 91 A special spark plug socket with a
rubber insert is required to remove the
spark plugs. Typically the spark plugs
re-
quire a Ya spark plug socket
Fig, 93 Using the appropriate sized spark
plug socket, necessary extensions and drive
tools, loosen the spark plug . . .
93151ptxl Fig. 95 After removing the plug from the en-
gine, inspect it using the spark plug condi-
tion chart in this section to determine the
running condition of your engine

t
GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-23
gap increases, the plug’s voltage requirement also in-
creases. It requires a greater voltage to jump the the spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and re-
move the spark plug from the bore.
wider gap and about &o to three times as much volt-
age to fire the plug at high speeds than at idle. The
improved air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injec-
tion combined with the higher voltage output of mod- Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the place. The click may be felt or heard, then gently pull
ern ignition systems will often allow an engine to run socket. Use of a flexible extension may allow back on the boot to assure proper contact.
.___. . _
significantly longer on a set of standard spark plugs, a shear force to be agptf’ ea to me plug.
A 12. On the 3.OL fSOHC and DOHC) and 3.5L en-
LL_ _I___ -u I_ IL-
but keep in mind that efficiency will drop as the gap shear force could break tne pug on III me
tion 3 for the installation procedure.
widens (along with fuel economy and power). cylinder head, leading to costly and frustrat-
13. If equipped, install the center cover.
When you’re removing spark plugs, work on one ing repairs.
at a time. Don’t start by removing the plug wires all at
once, because, unless you number them, they may To install:
INSPECTION & GAPPING
11. Apply a small amount of silicone dielectric
compound to the end of the spark plug lead or inside
the spark plug boot to prevent sticking, then install
the boot to the spark plug and push until it clicks into
gines, install the upper intake manifold. Refer to Sec-
,,Y” ..1111 uy”’ 1 the neaative bat&v cable and if become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin
and number the wrrpc with +sne
1. Disconnect. ~~.~
--..-., -..-.-, -..-
thevehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to
thoroughly cool.
2. If equipped, remove the center cover.
3. On the 3.OL (SOHC and DOHC) and 3.5L en-
gines, the upper intake manifold must be removed to
access the rear spark plugs. Refer to Section 3 for the
removal procedure.
4. Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to
loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from
the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the
wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot
may become separated.
5. Using compressed air, blow any water or de-
bris from the spark plug well to assure that no harm-
ful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion
chamber when the spark plug is removed. If com-
pressed air is not available, use a raa or a brush to must be replaced.
Check the plugs for deposits and wear, If they are 7. Inspect the spark plug boot for tears or dam-
age. If.a damaged boot is found, the spark plug wire
8. Using a wire feelergauge, check and adjust
the spark plug gap. When using a gauge, the proper
size should pass between the electrodes with a slight
drag. The next larger size should not be able to pass
while the next smaller size should pass freely.
9. Carefully thread the plug into the bore by
hand. If resistance is felt before the plug is almost
completely threaded, back the plug out and begin
threading again. In small, hard to reach areas, an old
spark plug wire and boot could be used as a thread-
ing tool. The boot will hold the plug while you twist
the end of the wire and the wire is supple enough to
twist before it would allow the plug to crossthread.
Do not use the spark plug sock?
l -- K-rrA tha nhme Alwmm rarntdlv thw GL I” IlllGa”
the possibility of crossthreading and damag- lad the plug
. ..Y f..“YY. rn”Y,‘““mY*“.‘, .I**” by hand or using an old plug wire to prevent
ing the cylinder head bore.
10. Carefully tighten the spark plug. If the plug
you are installing is equipped with a crush washer,
seat the plug, then tighten about I/, turn to crush the
washer. If you are installing a tapered seat plug,
tighten the plug to specifications provided by the ve-
hicle or plug manufacturer. b See Figures 98, 97, 98, 99, and 100
not going to be replaced, clean the plugs thoroughly.
Remember that any kind of deposit will decrease the
efficiency of the plug. Plugs can be cleaned on a
spark plug cleaning machine, which can sometimes
be found in service stations, or you can do an accept-
able job of cleaning with a stiff brush. If the plugs are’
cleaned, the electrodes must be filed flat. Use an ig-
nition points file, not an emery board or the like,
which will leave deposits. The electrodes must be
filed perfectly flat with sharp edges; rounded edges
reduce the spark plug voltage by as much as 50%.
Check spark plug gap before installation. The
ground electrode (the L-shaped one connected to the
body of the plug) must be parallel to the center elec-
trode and the specified size wire gauge (please refer
to the Tune-Up Specifications chart for details) must
pass between the electrodes with a slight drag:
*,NEVER adjust the gap on a used platinum
. clean the area.
*Remove the spark plugs when the engine
is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the
threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult,
apply a few drops of penetrating oil or sili-
cone spray to the area around the base of the
plug, and allow it a few minutes to work.
6. Using a spark plug socket that is equipped
with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug, turn type spark plug.
Always check the gap on new plugs as they are
not always set correctly at the factory. Do not use a
flat feeler gauge when measuring the gap on a used
plug, because the reading may be inaccurate. A
round-wire type gapping tool is the best way to check
the gap. The correct gauge should pass through the
electrode gap with a slight drag. If you’re in doubt, try
one size smaller and one laraer. The smaller aauqe

l-24 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
b%slZl2 Fig. 97 A variety of tools and gauges are
needed for spark plug service tm2903 Fig. 98 Checking the spark plug @au with a tccs2904 feeler gauge. - Fig. 99 Adjusting the spark plug gap
ig. 100 If the standard plug Is in good con-
ftlon, the electrode may be filed flat- the two ends. Take the length and multiply it by 6,000
to achieve the maximum resistance allowable in each
wire, resistance should not exceed this value. If resis-
tance does exceed this value, replace the wire.
*Whenever the high tension wires are re- ’
moved from the plugs, coil, or distributor,
silicone grease must be applied to the boot
before reconnection. Coat the entire Interior
surface with a suitable silicone grease.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
# See Figures 90,103 and 104
1. Remove the air cleaner inlet tube.
2. If eouiooed, remove the center cover from the
WARNING: do not file platinum plugs
valve covei.
3. Label each spark plug wire and make a note of
should go through easily, while the larger one its routing.
I’ shouldn’t go through at all. Wire gapping tools usu-
ally have a bending tool attached. Use that to adjust
the side electrode until the proper distance is ob-
tained. Absolutely never attempt to bend the center
electrode. Also, be careful not to bend the side elec- *Don’t rely on wiring diagrams or sketches
for spark plug wire routing. Improper
arrangement of spark plug wires will induce
voltage between wires, causing misfiring
and surging. Be careful to arrange spark plug
wires properly.
4. Starting with the longest wire, disconnect the
spark plug wire from the spark plug and then from
the coil pack or distributor cap.
To install:
5. If replacing the spark plug wires, match the olc
wire with an appropriately sized wire in the new set.
6. Lubricate the boots and terminals with dielec-
tric grease and install the wire on the coil pack. Make
sure the wire snaps into place.
a 7. Route the wire in the exact path as the original
nd connect the wire to the spark plug.
8. Repeat the process for each remaining wire,
iorking from the longest wire to the shortest.
9. Install the air cleaner inlet tube.
trode too far or too often as it may weaken and break
off within the engine, requiring removal of the cylin-
der head to retrieve it.
TESTING
# See Figures 191 and 102
At every tune-up/inspection, visually check the
spark plug cables for burns cuts, or breaks in the in-
sulation. Check the boots and the nipples on the dis-
tributor cap and/or coil. Replace any damaged wiring.
Every 50,000 miles (80,000 km) or 60 months, the
resistance of the wires should be checked with an
ohmmeter. Wires with excessive resistance will cause
misfiring, and may make the engine difficult to start in
damp weather.
To check resistance, an ohmmeter should be used ’
on each wire to test resistance between the end con-
nectors. Remove and install/replace the wires in or- ’
der, one-by-one.
Resistance on these wires should be 4,000-6,000
ohms per foot. To properly measure this, remove the
wires from the plugs and the coil pack. Do not pierce
any ignition wire for any reason. Measure only from Fig. 103 Remove the spark plug wires from
tcG1009 Fig. 102 Checking individual plug wire re-
sistance with a digital ohmmeter
Fig. 104 Remove the plug wires from the
wire dividers

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE 1-25
osen the distributor cap retain-
Fig. 106. . . then remove the cap from the
distributor
Fig. 107 Grasp the rotor and pull it straight
off of the distributor shaft
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
*Depending on the reason for removing the
distributor cap, it may make more sense to Fig. 108 The rotor must be aligned correctly
to the distributor shaft before installation
other physical damage. Make sure the distributor
cap’s center button is free of damage. Check the cap
terminals for dirt or corrosion. Always check the rotor
blade and spring closely for damage. Replace any
comoonents where damaae is found.
smmE
ALGNME
LOCATOR
b See Figures 105,106,107, and 108 GENERAL INFORMATION
b See Figures 111 and 112
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of
crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark
plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in
degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the
compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be
ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes
I 1 COMBUSTION
ENDS 23’ ATDC
SPEED INCREASES
9ir&1$?6
Fig. 111 Advancing the ignition timing
’
CCURS
COMBUSTION
DC
ENDS 23 ATDC
3. Remove the distributor cap retaining screws or
clips and remove the cap from the distributor.
4. Note its installed position, then remove the ro-
tor from the distributor shaft. leave the spark plug wires attached. This is
handy if you are testing spark plug wires, or
if removal is necessary to access other com-
ponents, and wire length allows you to repo-
sition the cap out of the way.
2. Label and disconnect the spark plug wires
from the distributor cao.
5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.
INSPECTION
u See Figures 109 and 110
9mg27
After removing the distributor cap and rotor, clean
the components (both inside and outside of the cap)
using soap and water. If compressed air is available,
carefully dry the components (wearing safety gog-
gles) or allow the parts to air dry. You can dry them
with a clean, soft cloth, but don’t leave any lint or
moisture behind.
Once the cap and rotor have been thoroughly Inspection points for the dis Fig. 112 Retarding the tgnttion timing
cleaned, check for cracks, carbon tracks, burns or

.
1-26 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the
piston WIII be at the beginning of the power stroke
just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture
forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Be-
cause it takes a fraction of a second for the spark
plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark
plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC.
Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited
as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the
explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of
crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC
(BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10”
BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before
each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, how-
ever, when the engine is at idle speed. The combus-
tion process must be complete by 23”ATDC to main-
tain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and
low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go
faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even
sooner if it IS to be completely ignited when the pis-
ton reaches TDC. If the ignition is set too far ad-
vanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel
in the cylinder wtll occur too soon and tend to force
the piston down while it is still traveling up. Thus
causes pre ignition or “knockmg and pinging”. If the
ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC
(ATDC), the piston will have already started on its
way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be
forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting
in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of
the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks
on the pulley correspond to the posrtion of the piston
in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) tim-
ing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug
wrre. Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light
flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while
the engine is running, the exact position of the piston
within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of
light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be
standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the
mark and scale are in specified alignment.
When checking timing with the engine run-
ning, take care not to get the timing light
wires tangled in the tan blades and/or drive
belts.
INSPECTION &ADJUSTMENT
1990-96 Models
e See Figures 113 thru 119
1. Set the parking brake, start and run the engine
until normal operating temperature is obtained. Keep
all lights and accessories OFF and the front wheels
straight-ahead. Place the transaxle in
P for automatic
transaxle or Neutral for manual transaxle.
2. If not at specification, set the idle speed to the
correct level.
3. Turn the engine
OFF. Remove the water-
proof cover from the igmtion timing adjusting con-
nector, and connect a jumper wire from this terminal
Fig. 113 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nector-1990-92 Mirage with 1.5L engine
93151QM Fig. 115 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nectar-Galant with 2.OL engines
93151QO1 Fig. 117 Ignition timing adjustment con.
nectar-1994-96 Galant
to a good ground. Refer to the corresponding illustra-
tions for the correct location of the timing adjustment
connector.
4. Connect a conventional power timing light to
the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire. Start the engine
and run at idle.
5. Aim the timing light at the timing scale lo-
cated near the crankshaft pulley.
6. Loosen the distributor or crank angle sensor
hold-down nut just enough so the housing can be ro-
tated.
7. Turn the housing in the proper direction until
the specified timing is reached. Tighten the hold-
down nut and recheck the timing. Turn the engine
OFF. 8. Remove the jumper wire from the ignition
timing adjusting terminal and install the water-proof
cover.
9. Start the engine and check the actual timing
(the timing without the terminal grounded). This
reading should be approximately 5 degrees more
than the basic timing. Actual timing may increase ac-
cording to altitude. Also, actual timing may fluctuate
because of slight variation accomplished by the ECU.
Fig. 114 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nectar-Miracle with 1.6L enaine
CHECK CONNECTOR 93151QO! Fig. 116 Ignition timing adjustment con.
nectar-1992-96 Oiamante
93151gOB Fig. 116 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nector-1993-96 Mirage with 1.5L engine
Fig. 119 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nector-1993-96 Mirage with 1.6L engine
As long as the basic timing is correct, the engine is
timed correctly.
10. Turn the engine
OFF. 11. Disconnect the timing apparatus and
tachometer.
1997-00 Models
The ignition timing is controlled by the Engine
Control Module (ECM) and is not adjustable. How-
ever it can be inspected using a scan tool.

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE I-27
ADJUSTMENT
u See Figures 120 and 121
The only engines that require periodic adjustment
of the valves are the 1.5L engine in the 1990-95 Mi-
rage and the 1.8L in the 1993-95 Mirage.
Incorrect valve clearance will cause noisy
and/or unsteady engine operation, reduced
engine output, and possible engine damage.
Check the valve clearances and adjust as re-
quired while the engine is hot.
1. Warm the engine to operating temperature.
Turn the engine OFF. Disconnect the negative battery
cable.
2. Remove all spark plugs so engine can be eas-
ily turned by hand
3. Remove the valve cover.
4. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the notch
on the pulley is aligned with the
T mark on the timing
belt lower cover. This brings both No. 1 and 4 cylin-
der pistons to Top Dead Center (TDC).
5. Wiggle the rocker arms on No. 1 and 4 cylin-
ders up and down to determine which cylinder is at
TDC on the compression stroke. Both rocker arms
should move if the piston in that cylinder is at TDC
on the compression stroke.
6. Measure the valve clearance with a feeler
gauge. When the No. 1 piston is at TDC on the com-
pression stroke, check No. 1 intake and
exhaust; No.
2 intake and exhaust. Then turn the crankshaft clock-
wise 1 turn to bring No. 4 to TDC on its compression
stroke. With No. 4 on TDC, compression stroke,
check No. 2 exhaust and intake; and No. 4 intake and
exhaust. Clearance is as follows:
1990-92 1.5L engine:
No.1 No.2
No.3 No.4
when engine is on TDC of cylinder 1 and (B) when engine is on TDC of cylinder 4
No.1 No.2
No.3 No.4
AA AA BB BB
93151g10 Fig. 121 Adjusting the valve clearance
l Exhaust valve: 0.0098 in. (0.25mm) screw. When at specification, tighten the locknut. Be l Intake valve: 0.0059 in. (0.15mm)
1993-95 1.5L engine: sure to hold the screw securely in place when tight-
l Exhaust valve: 0.0098 in. (0.25mm) ening the locknut to prevent it from turning when
* Intake valve: 0.008 in. (0.20mm) tightening the locknut. Tightening torque of the lock-
nut is as follows:
1993-95 1.8L engine:
l Exhaust valve: 0.012 in. (0.30mm) l 1.5L engine: 9-11 ft. Ibs. (12-15 Nm)
l Intake valve: 0.008 in. (0.20mm) l 1.8L engine: 7 ft. Ibs. (9 Nm)
8. Recheck the clearance and readjust.
7. If the valve clearance is out of specification,
9. After adjusting the valves, install the valve
loosen the rocker arm locknut and adjust the clear-
ante using a feeler gauge while turning the adjusting cover and spark plugs, and connect the negative bat-
tery cable.
Engine
ENGINE TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS Ignition
Spark Plugs liming
Fuel Idle
Speed Valve
Displacement
Engine
Gap (as.) Pump (rpm)
Clearance

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE 1-29
i
*Bug screens which are mounted in front of
the condenser (unless they are original
equipment) are regarded as obstructtons.
l The condensation drain tube expels any water
which accumulates on the bottom of the evaporator
housing into the engine compartment. If this tube is
obstructed, the air conditioning performance can be
restricted and condensation buildup can spill over
onto the vehicle’s floor.
l Make sure the air passage selection lever is
operating correctly. Start the engine and warm it to
normal operating temperature, then make sure the
temperature selection lever is operating correctly.
-w
~1 ELEMENT(REFILL)CARE& REPLACEMENT
SYSTEM INSPECTION
b See Figure 125 b See Figures 126 thru 135
For maximum effectiveness and longest element
Although the A/C system should not be serviced
by the do-it-yourselfer, preventive maintenance can
be practiced and A/C system inspections can be per-
formed to help maintain the efficiency of the vehicle’s
A/C system. For A/C system inspection, perform the
following:
The easiest and often most important check for the
air conditioning system consists of a visual inspec-
tion of the system components. Visually inspect the
air conditioning system for refrigerant leaks, dam-
aged compressor clutch, abnormal compressor drive
belt tension and/or condition, plugged evaporator
drain tube, blocked condenser fins, disconnected or
broken wires, blown fuses, corroded connections and
poor insulation.
A refrigerant leak will usually appear as an oily
residue at the leakage point in the system. The oily
residue soon picks up dust or dirt particles from the
surrounding air and appears greasy. Through time,
this will build up and appear to be a heavy dirt im-
pregnated grease.
For a thorough visual and operational inspection,
check the following: * Check the surface of the radiator and con-
denser for dirt, leaves or other material which might
block air flow.
l Check for kinks in hoses and lines. Check the
system for leaks.
l Make sure the drive belt is properly tensioned.
When the air conditioning is operating, make sure the
drive belt is free of noise or slippage.
l Make sure the blower motor operates at all ap-
propriate positions, then check for distribution of the
air from all outlets with the blower on HIGH or MAX.
*Keep in mind that under conditions of high
humidity, air discharged from the A/C vents
may not feel as cold as expected, even if the
system is working properly. This is because
vaporized moisture in humid air retains heat
more effectively than dry air, thereby making
humid air more difficult to cool.
lifp thp winrkhi&i nnri winor hlarlP~ shmM hP kmt . ..“. .I.” . . * ““I.. “.” I..” ...r”* “.“““” “, ,““,” “” ,~“r~ clean. Dirt, tree sap, road tar and so on will cause
streaking, smearing and blade deterioration if left on
the glass. It is advisable to wash the windshield care-
fully with a commercial glass cleaner at least once a
month. Wipe off the rubber blades with the wet rag
afterwards. Do not attempt to move wipers across the
windshield by hand; damage to the motor and drive
mechanism will result.
To inspect and/or replace the wiper blade ele-
ments, place the wiper switch in the LOW speed po-
sition and the ignition switch in the ACC position.
When the wiper blades are approximately vertical on
the windshield, turn the ignition switch to OFF.
Examine the wiper blade elements. If they are
found to be cracked, broken or torn, they should be
replaced immediately. Replacement intervals will vary
with usage, although ozone deterioration usually lim-
its element life to about one year. If the wiper pattern
is smeared or streaked, or if the blade chatters across
the glass, the elements should be replaced. It is easi-
est and most sensible to replace the elements in
pairs.
If your vehicle is equipped with aftermarket blades,
there are several different types of refills and your vehi-
tcca-23 Fig. 126 Bosch@ wiper blade and fft kit
Fig. 129 T&o* wioer blade and fit kit tCS1224
lW1Z?5 Fig. 127 LexoP wiper blade and fit kit
Fig. 128 Pylon@ wiper blade and adapter
Fig. 131 To remove and install a LexoP
Fig, 130 Tripledge@ wiper blade and fit kit wiper blade refill, slip out the old insert and
slide in a new one

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-43
l Special car washing detergent is the best to
use. Liquid dishwashing detergent can remove wax
and leave the car’s paint unprotected and in addition
some liquid detergents contains abrasives which can
scratch the paint.
l Bird droppings should be removed from the
paintwork as soon as possible, otherwise the finish
may be permanently stained.
When the car is driven immediately after be-
ing washed, apply the brakes several times
93151p14 93151p12 Fig. 215 Twist the reservoir cap, then lift up
I I
in order to remove any moisture from the
Fig. 216 Wipe the dipstick off, reinsert it braking surfaces.
on the integral cap/dipstick assembly
into the reservoir and check the level
I
Engine cleaning agents should not be used
when the engine is warm, a fire risk is pre-
sent as most engine cleaning agents are
highly flammable.
sition of the fluid against the mark on the dipstick,
Add fluid to the reservoir if the fluid does not reach
the appropriate full line.
On most models, the manufacturer doesn’t install
lubrication fittings on lube points on the steering
linkage or suspension. However, if the lubrication
point does have a grease fitting, lubricate with multi-
purpose NLGI No. 2 (Lithium base) grease.
CAR WASHING
The car should be washed at regular intervals to
remove dirt, dust, insects, and tar and other possibly
damaging stains that can adhere to the paint and may
cause damage. Proper exterior maintenance also
helps in the resale value of the vehicle by maintaining
its like-new appearance.
Mt is particularly important ta frequentiy
wash the car in the wintertime to prevent cor-
rosion, when salt has been used on the roads.
There are many precautions and tips on washing,
including the following:
l When washing the car, do not expose it do di-
rect sunlight.
. Use lukewarm water to soften the dirt before
you wash with a sponge, and plenty of water, to avoid
scratching.
l A detergent can be used to facilitate the soften-
ing of dirt and oil. * A water-soluble grease solvent may be used in
cases of sticky dirt. However, use a washplace with a
drainage separator.
l Dry the car with a clean chamois and remem-
ber to clean the drain holes in the doors and rocker
panels.
l If equipped with a power radio antenna, it must
be dried after washing.
Never clean the bumpers with gasoline or
paint thinner, always use the same agent as
used on the painted surfaces of the vehicle.
l Tar spots can be removed with tar remover or
kerosene after the car has been washed.
l A stiff-bristle brush and lukewarm soapy water
can be used to clean the wiper blades. Frequent
cleaning improves visibility when using the wipers
considerably.
l Wash off the did from the underside (wheel
housings, fenders, etc.).
l In areas of high industrial fallout, more fre-
quent washing is recommended.
During high pressure washing the spray nonle
must never be closer to the vehicle than 13
inches (30cm). Do not spray into the locks.
l When washing or steam cleaning the engine,
avoid spraying water or steam directly on the electri-
cal components or near the distributor or ignition
components. After cleaning the engine, the spark
plug wells should be inspected for water and blown
dry if necessary. Automatic car washing is a simple and quick way
to clean your car, but it is worth remembering that it
is not as thorough as when you yourself clean the
car. Keeping the underbody clean is vitally important,
and some automatic washers do not contain equip-
ment for washing the underside of the car.
When driving into an automatic was, make sure
the following precautions have been taken:
l Make sure all windows are up, and no objects
that you do not want to get wet are exposed.
l In some cases, rotating the side view mirrors
in can help to avoid possible damage.
l If your car is equipped with a power antenna,
lower it. If your vehicle has a solid mounted, non-
power antenna, it is best to remove it, but this is not
always practical. Inspect the surroundings to reduce
the risk of possible damage, and check to see if the
antenna can be manually lowered.
Most manufacturers do not recommend auto-
matic car washing in the first six months due
to the possibility of insufficient paint curing;
a safe bet is to wait until after six months of
ownership (when purchased new) to use an
automatic car wash.
WAXING
eBefore applying wax, the vehicle must be
washed and thoroughly dried.
Waxing a vehicle can help to preserve the appear-
ante of your vehicle. A wide range of polymer-based
car waxes are available today. These waxes are easy
to use and produce a long-lasting, high gloss finish
that protects the body and paint against oxidation,
road dirt, and fading.
Sometimes, waxing a neglected vehicle, or one
that has sustained chemical or natural element dam-
age (such as acid rain) require more than waxing,
and a light-duty compound can be applied. For se-
verely damaged surfaces, it is best to consult a pro-
fessional to see what would be required to repair the
damage.
Waxing procedures differ according to manufac-
turer, type, and ingredients, so it is best to consult
the directions on the wax and/or polish purchased.