ABS DODGE NEON 2000 Service User Guide

Page 73 of 1285

CAUTION: When venting the inner tripod joint
assembly, use care so inner tripod sealing boot
does not get punctured or, in any other way, dam-
aged. If sealing boot is punctured or damaged while
being vented, the sealing boot can not be used.
(9) Insert a trim stick between the tripod joint and
the sealing boot to vent inner tripod joint assembly
(Fig. 29).When inserting trim stick between tri-
pod housing and sealing boot, ensure trim stick
is held flat and firmly against the tripod hous-
ing. If this is not done, damage to the sealing
boot can occur.If inner tripod joint has a Hytrel
(hard plastic) sealing boot, be sure trim stick is
inserted between soft rubber insert and tripod hous-
ing, and not the hard plastic sealing boot and soft
rubber insert.
(10) With trim stick inserted between sealing boot
and tripod joint housing, position inner tripod joint
on driveshaft until correct sealing boot edge to edge
length is obtained for type of sealing boot material
being used (Fig. 30) (Fig. 31). Then remove the trim
stick.
(11) Clamp tripod joint sealing boot to tripod joint
using required procedure for type of boot clamp
application. If seal boot uses crimp type boot clamp,
clamp sealing boot onto tripod housing using crimper,
Special Tool C-4975-A. Place crimping tool C-4975-A
over bridge of clamp (Fig. 32). Tighten nut on crimp-
ing tool C-4975-A until jaws on tool are closed com-
pletely together, face±to±face (Fig. 33).(12) If seal boot uses low profile latching type boot
clamp, clamp sealing boot onto tripod housing using
clamp locking tool, Snap-OntYA3050 (or an equiva-
lent). Place prongs of clamp locking tool in the holes
of the clamp (Fig. 34). Squeeze tool together until top
band of clamp is latched behind the two tabs on
lower band of clamp (Fig. 35).
Fig. 29 Trim Stick Inserted for Venting Tripod Joint
1 ± INNER TRIPOD JOINT SEALING BOOT
2 ± SEALING BOOT CLAMP
3 ± INNER TRIPOD JOINT HOUSING
4 ± TRIM STICK
Fig. 30 Sealing Boot End to End Length with Hytrel
Boot
1 ± 107 MILLIMETERS
2 ± HYTREL SEALING BOOT
3 ± SEALING BOOT CLAMP
4 ± INNER TRIPOD JOINT
Fig. 31 Sealing Boot End to End Length with
Silicone Boot
1 ± 115 MILLIMETERS
2 ± SILICONE SEALING BOOT
3 ± CLAMP
4 ± INNER TRIPOD JOINT
3 - 12 DIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINEPL
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

Page 74 of 1285

(13) Install the driveshaft requiring boot replace-
ment back on the vehicle. See Driveshaft Removal
and Installation in this section for the required drive-
shaft installation procedure.
OUTER C/V JOINT SEAL BOOT
REMOVAL
To remove outer C/V joint sealing boot from a drive-
shaft for replacement, the driveshaft assembly must
be removed from the vehicle. See Driveshaft Removal
and Installation in this section for the required drive-
shaft removal and replacement procedure.
(1) Remove driveshaft assembly requiring boot
replacement from vehicle. See Driveshaft Removal
and Installation in this section for the required drive-
shaft removal procedure.
Fig. 32 Crimping Tool Installed on Sealing Boot
Clamp
1 ± CLAMP
2 ± TRIPOD JOINT HOUSING
3 ± SPECIAL TOOL C-4975A
4 ± SEALING BOOT
Fig. 33 Sealing Boot Retaining Clamp Installed
1 ± CLAMP
2 ± TRIPOD HOUSING
3 ± SPECIAL TOOL C-4975A
4 ± JAWS OF SPECIAL TOOL C-4975A MUST BE CLOSED
COMPLETELY TOGETHER HERE
5 ± SEALING BOOT
Fig. 34 Clamping Tool Installed on Sealing Boot
Clamp
1 ± CLAMP
2 ± SPECIAL TOOL YA3050
3 ± SEALING BOOT
Fig. 35 Sealing Boot Clamp Correctly Installed
1 ± INNER TRIPOD JOINT HOUSING
2 ± TOP BANK OF CLAMP MUST BE RETAINED BY TABS AS
SHOWN HERE TO CORRECTLY LATCH BOOT CLAMP
3 ± SEALING BOOT
PLDIFFERENTIAL AND DRIVELINE 3 - 13
DISASSEMBLY AND ASSEMBLY (Continued)

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DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM OPERATION
When a vehicle needs to be stopped, the driver
applies the brake pedal. The brake pedal pushes the
input rod of the power brake booster into the booster.
The booster uses vacuum to ease pedal effort as force
is transferred through the booster to the master cyl-
inder. The booster's output rod pushes in the master
cylinder's primary and secondary pistons applying
hydraulic pressure through the chassis brake tubes
and proportioning valves (rear only) to the brakes at
each tire and wheel assembly.
Front disc brakes control the braking of the front
wheels; rear braking is controlled by rear drum
brakes as standard equipment. Rear disc brakes and
an antilock brake system (ABS) with traction control
are optional.
The hydraulic brake system is diagonally split on
both the non-antilock and antilock braking systems.
This means the left front and right rear brakes are
on one hydraulic circuit and the right front and left
rear are on the other.
Vehicles equipped with the optional antilock brake
system (ABS) use a system designated Mark 20e.
This system shares most base brake hardware used
on vehicles without ABS. A vehicle equipped with
ABS, however, uses a different master cylinder and
brake tubes. Also included in the ABS system is an
integrated control unit (ICU) and four wheel speed
sensors. These components are described in detail in
the ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM section in this
group of the service manual. All vehicles with ABS
come standard with four-wheel-disc brakes and trac-
tion control.
The parking brakes are hand-operated. When
applied, the parking brake lever pulls on cables that
actuate brake shoes at each rear wheel. The parking
brake lever has an automatic adjusting feature that
takes up any excessive slack in the parking brake
cable system.
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM COMPONENTS
BRAKE PEDAL
A suspended-type brake pedal is used on this vehi-
cle. The pedal pivots on a shaft mounted in the pedal
support bracket under the instrument panel. The
pedal connects to the power brake booster input rod
and pushes it in when the pedal is applied.
The brake pedal and it's pad are serviceable sepa-
rately.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
There are two different power brake booster
designs, although externally they appear the same.
All vehicles use a 205 mm tandem diaphragm power
brake booster. The two boosters are internally tuned
differently depending on whether the vehicle is
equipped with the standard front disc/rear drum
brake combination or the optional front disc/rear disc
(four-wheel disc) brake combination. If the power
brake booster requires replacement, be sure it is
replaced with the correct part.
The power brake booster can be identified by the
tag attached to the body of the booster assembly (Fig.
1). This tag contains the following information: The
production part number of the power brake booster,
the date it was built and who manufactured it.
The power brake booster reduces the amount of
force required by the driver to obtain the necessary
hydraulic pressure to stop the vehicle.
The power brake booster is vacuum-operated. The
vacuum is supplied from the intake manifold on the
engine through the power brake booster check valve
(Fig. 2).
As the brake pedal is depressed, the power booster
input rod moves forward. This opens and closes
valves in the power brake booster, allowing atmo-
spheric pressure to enter on one side of a diaphragm.
Engine vacuum is always present on the other side.
This difference in pressure forces the output rod of
the power booster out against the primary piston of
the master cylinder. As the pistons in the master cyl-
inder move forward, hydraulic pressure is created in
the brake system.
Fig. 1 Master Cylinder and Power Brake Booster
1 ± POWER BRAKE BOOSTER PARTS IDENTIFICATION TAG
2 ± POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
3 ± BRAKE FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH
4 ± MASTER CYLINDER
5 - 2 BRAKESPL

Page 82 of 1285

The power brake vacuum booster assembly mounts
on the engine side of the dash panel. The booster
input push rod connects to the brake pedal. A vac-
uum line connects the power booster to the intake
manifold. The master cylinder is bolted to the front
of the power brake booster.
MASTER CYLINDER
The base brakes on a vehicle not equipped with
ABS use a standard compensating port master cylin-
der, while vehicles equipped with ABS use a center
valve design master cylinder. The information pro-
vided here applies only to the non-ABS master cylin-
der. For information on the master cylinder used on
vehicles with ABS, refer to the ANTILOCK BRAKE
SYSTEM section in this service manual group.
The non-ABS master cylinder is a four-outlet
design with two screw-in proportioning valves. One is
attached directly to the inboard side of the master
cylinder housing while the other is attached to the
bottom (Fig. 3). Vehicles equipped with rear drum
brakes use a master cylinder with a 22.23 mm (0.875
in.) bore diameter, while vehicles equipped with rear
disc brakes use a 23.82 mm (0.937 in.) bore diameter
master cylinder.
The master cylinder body is an anodized aluminum
casting. It has a machined bore to accept the master
cylinder piston and also has threaded ports with
seats for hydraulic brake line connections.
The master cylinder's primary outlet ports supply
hydraulic pressure to the right front and left rearbrakes while the secondary outlet ports supply
hydraulic pressure to the left front and right rear
brakes (Fig. 3).
BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR
The master cylinder has the brake fluid reservoir
mounted on top of it which gravity feeds brake fluid
to the master cylinder when it is required. The res-
ervoir is made of see-through plastic and it houses
the brake fluid level switch.
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL SWITCH
The brake fluid level switch is located in the brake
fluid reservoir on the master cylinder (Fig. 1). It
senses the level of the brake fluid within the reser-
voir and when the level drops below an acceptable
level, the switch closes and completes the ground cir-
cuit for the red BRAKE warning lamp. This turns on
the red BRAKE warning lamp. For additional infor-
mation, refer to RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP also
in this section.
PROPORTIONING VALVE
NOTE: Only vehicles without antilock brakes have
proportioning valves. Vehicles with antilock brakes
have electronic brake distribution that is built into
the integrated control unit.
Fig. 2 Power Brake Booster
1 ± MOUNTING STUD
2 ± PARTS IDENTIFICATION TAG
3 ± MASTER CYLINDER MOUNTING STUDS
4 ± VACUUM CHECK VALVE
Fig. 3 Non-ABS Master Cylinder
1 ± RIGHT FRONT BRAKE TUBE
2 ± LEFT FRONT BRAKE TUBE
3 ± LEFT REAR BRAKE TUBE
4 ± REAR PROPORTIONING VALVES
5 ± RIGHT REAR BRAKE TUBE
PLBRAKES 5 - 3
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

Page 87 of 1285

RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP
The red BRAKE warning lamp is located in the
instrument panel cluster and illuminates when a low
brake fluid condition occurs or when the parking
brake lever is applied with the ignition key in the
ON position. In addition, the red BRAKE warning
lamp illuminates when the ignition switch is moved
from the OFF to the ON or CRANK position. This is
done to check the bulb's operation.
Problems with this system will generally be of the
type where the warning lamp fails to turn on when it
should, or remains on when it should not.
The red BRAKE warning lamp LED is supplied
with current anytime the ignition switch is ON. The
bulb is illuminated by completing the ground circuit
using any of the following components:
²the brake fluid level switch located in the mas-
ter cylinder reservoir
²the parking brake switch mounted on the park-
ing brake lever (Fig. 10)
²the ignition switch when the ignition switch is
first moved to the ON or CRANK position
²the mechanical instrument cluster (MIC) (with
ABS)
²the ABS electronic brake distribution (EBD)
The brake fluid level switch is located in the brake
fluid reservoir of the master cylinder assembly (Fig.
1). The purpose of the switch is to provide the driver
with an early warning that the brake fluid level inthe master cylinder reservoir has dropped below an
acceptable level.
As the fluid drops below the minimum level, the
fluid level switch closes and grounds the red BRAKE
warning lamp circuit. This turns on the red BRAKE
warning lamp. At this time, the master cylinder fluid
reservoir must be checked and filled to the full mark
with DOT 3 brake fluid. An abnormal loss of brake
fluid in the master cylinder fluid reservoir could be
caused by a leak in the hydraulic system. The entire
brake hydraulic system should be checked for evi-
dence of a leak.
The red BRAKE warning lamp can be turned on by
the MIC in the case where the ABS is experiencing a
problem where the amber ABS warning lamp needs
to be illuminated and cannot. The MIC will then illu-
minate the red BRAKE warning lamp.
BRAKE LAMP SWITCH
The brake lamp switch is located under the instru-
ment panel, at the brake pedal arm (Fig. 13). It con-
trols operation of the vehicle's stop lamps. Also, if the
vehicle is equipped with speed control, the brake
lamp switch will deactivate the speed control when
the brake pedal is depressed.
When the brake pedal is depressed, the brake lamp
switch contacts are closed, completing the circuit to
the stop lamps, thus illuminating the stop lamps and
the center-high-mounted stop lamp (CHMSL).
Fig. 12 Drum-In-Hat Brake Rotor
1 ± REAR BRAKING DISK ROTOR
2 ± HAT SECTION OF REAR BRAKING DISC (PARKING BRAKE
BRAKING SURFACE)
Fig. 13 Brake Lamp Switch
1 ± SWITCH
2 ± CLIP
3 ± BRAKE PEDAL
4 ± CONNECTOR
5 - 8 BRAKESPL
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

Page 88 of 1285

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
BASE BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHARTS
NOTE: There are three diagnosis charts following
that cover the RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP,
BRAKE NOISE and OTHER BRAKE CONDITIONS.
RED BRAKE WARNING LAMP
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
RED BRAKE WARNING
LAMP ON1. Parking brake lever not fully
released.1. Release parking brake lever.
2. Parking brake warning lamp switch
on parking brake lever.2. Inspect and replace switch as necessary.
3. Brake fluid level low in reservoir. 3. Fill reservoir. Check entire system for
leaks. Repair or replace as required.
4. Brake fluid level switch. 4. Disconnect switch wiring connector. If lamp
goes out, replace switch.
5. Mechanical instrument cluster (MIC)
problem.5. Refer to Chassis Diagnostic Procedures
manual.
6. ABS EBD malfunction. 6. Refer to ABS section and Chassis
Diagnostic Procedures manual.
BRAKE NOISE
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
DISC BRAKE CHIRP 1. Excessive brake rotor runout. 1. Follow brake rotor diagnosis and testing.
Correct as necessary.
2. Lack of lubricant on brake caliper
slides.2. Lubricate brake caliper slides.
DISC BRAKE RATTLE OR
CLUNK1. Broken or missing anti-rattle spring
clips on shoes.1. Replace brake shoes.
2. Caliper guide pins loose. 2. Tighten guide pins.
DISC BRAKE SQUEAK AT
LOW SPEED (WHILE
APPLYING LIGHT BRAKE
PEDAL EFFORT)1. Brake shoe linings. 1. Replace brake shoes.
DRUM BRAKE CHIRP 1. Lack of lubricant on brake shoe
support plate where shoes ride.1. Lubricate shoe contact areas on brake
shoe support plates.
2. Wheel cylinder out of alignment. 2. Loosen wheel cylinder mounting bolts,
realign wheel cylinder with brake shoes and
tighten mounting bolts.
DRUM BRAKE CLUNK 1. Drum(s) have threaded machined
braking surface.1. Reface or replace drake drums as
necessary.
DRUM BRAKE HOWL OR
MOAN1. Lack of lubricant on brake shoe
support plate where shoes ride and at
the anchor.1. Lubricate shoe contact areas on brake
shoe support plates and at the anchor.
2. Rear brake shoes. 2. Replace rear brake shoes.
DRUM BRAKE SCRAPING
OR WHIRRING1. ABS wheel speed sensor or tone
wheel.1. Inspect, correct or replace faulty
component(s).
SCRAPING (METAL-TO-
METAL).1. Foreign object interference with
brakes.1. Inspect brakes and remove foreign object.
2. Brake shoes worn out. 2. Replace brake shoes. Inspect rotors and
drums. Reface or replace as necessary.
PLBRAKES 5 - 9

Page 90 of 1285

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
PEDAL PULSATES/SURGES
DURING BRAKING1. Rear brake drum out of round or
disc brake rotor has excessive
thickness variation.1. Isolate condition as rear or front.
Reface or replace brake drums or rotors
as necessary.
PEDAL IS SPONGY 1. Air in brake lines. 1. Bleed brakes.
2. Power brake booster runout
(vacuum assist).2. Check booster vacuum hose and
engine tune for adequate vacuum supply.
Refer to power brake booster in the
diagnosis and testing section.
PREMATURE REAR WHEEL
LOCKUP1. Contaminated brake shoe linings. 1. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
2. Inoperative proportioning valve
(non-ABS vehicles only).2. Test proportioning valves folowing
procedure listed in diagnosis and testing
section. Replace valves as necessary.
3. ABS EBD not functioning. 3. Refer to the ABS section and Chassis
Diagnostic Procedures manual.
4. Improper power brake booster
assist.4. Refer to power brake booster in the
diagnosis and testing section.
STOP LAMPS STAY ON 1. Brake lamp switch out of
adjustment.1. Adjust brake lamp switch.
2. Brake pedal binding. 2. Inspect and replace as necessary.
3. Obstruction in pedal linkage. 3. Remove obstruction.
4. Power Brake Booster not allowing
pedal to return completely.4. Replace power brake booster.
VEHICLE PULLS TO RIGHT
OR LEFT ON BRAKING1. Frozen brake caliper piston. 1. Replace frozen piston or caliper. Bleed
brakes.
2. Contaminated brake shoe lining. 2. Inspect and clean, or replace shoes.
Repair source of contamination.
3. Pinched brake lines. 3. Replace pinched line.
4. Leaking piston seal. 4. Replace piston seal or brake caliper.
5. Suspension problem. 5. Refer to the Suspension group.
PARKING BRAKE -
EXCESSIVE HANDLE
TRAVEL1. Rear brakes out of adjustment. 1. Adjust rear drum brake shoes, or rear
parking brake shoes on vehicles with rear
disc brakes.
POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
BASIC TEST
(1) With engine off, depress and release the brake
pedal several times to purge all vacuum from the
power brake booster.
(2) Depress and hold the pedal with light effort (15
to 25 lbs. pressure), then start the engine.
The pedal should fall slightly, then hold. Less effort
should be needed to apply the pedal at this time. If
the pedal fell as indicated, perform the VACUUM
LEAK TEST listed after the BASIC TEST. If thepedal did not fall, continue on with this BASIC
TEST.
(3) Disconnect the vacuum hose on the side of the
vacuum check valve that leads to the speed control,
then connect a vacuum gauge to the open vacuum
port on the valve.
(4) Start the engine.
(5) When the engine is at warm operating temper-
ature, allow it to idle and check the vacuum at the
gauge.
PLBRAKES 5 - 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

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The in-line proportioning valves used on this vehi-
cle require special pressure fittings to test the pro-
portioning valves for proper proportioning valve
function. The pressure fittings are installed before
and after the proportioning valve being tested to ver-
ify proportioning valve is maintaining the required
hydraulic pressure to the rear wheel brake which it
controls.
The testing of proportioning valves for this vehicle,
if equipped with ABS, can be found in the
ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM section.
PROPORTIONING VALVE TEST
The test procedure is the same for either rear pro-
portioning valve. After road testing the vehicle to
determine which wheel skids first, follow the proce-
dure below for testing the suspect proportioning
valve.
(1) Using a brake pedal holding tool as shown (Fig.
22), depress the brake pedal past its first one inch of
travel and hold it in this position. This will isolate
the master cylinder from the brake hydraulic system
and will not allow the brake fluid to drain out of the
master cylinder reservoir.
(2) Use the figure shown to determine which pro-
portioning valve needs to be tested (Fig. 21).
(3) Remove the hydraulic brake tube from the pro-
portioning valve controlling the rear wheel of the
vehicle that has premature wheel skid.
(4) Remove the proportioning valve from its outlet
port on the master cylinder.CAUTION: Be sure the pressure test fittings being
installed into master cylinder and proportioning
valve, have the correct thread sizes needed.
(5) Install the Brake Pressure Adapters, Special
Tool 8644 and 6805-3 onto the proportioning valve
(Fig. 23).
(6) Install the proportioning valve (with tools) back
into the outlet port on the master cylinder.
(7) Attach a Pressure Gauge, Special Tool
C-4007-A, to each pressure adapter (Fig. 24).
(8) Remove the brake pedal holding tool. Bleed any
air out of the pressure gauge hoses at the pressure
gauge.
(9) With the aid of a helper, apply pressure to the
brake pedal until the reading on proportioning valve
inlet gauge is at the target inlet pressure shown in
the BRAKE PROPORTIONING VALVE APPLICA-
TIONS AND PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS table
Fig. 22 Brake Pedal Holding Tool
1 ± CLUTCH PEDAL (IF EQUIPPED WITH MANUAL TRANSAXLE)
2 ± THROTTLE PEDAL
3 ± BRAKE PEDAL HOLDING TOOL
4 ± STEERING WHEEL
5 ± DRIVER'S SEAT
6 ± BRAKE PEDAL
Fig. 23 Tools On Valve
1 ± PROPORTIONING VALVE
Fig. 24 Pressure Gauge Set
1 ± SPECIAL TOOL C-4007±A
5 - 16 BRAKESPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

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following this procedure. If the inlet gauge pressure
overshoots its target pressure when the pedal is
depressed, release the brake pedal, relieving the
pressure in the system, before reapplying the pedal
to reach the target pressure at the inlet gauge. This
is necessary to get an accurate reading of the outlet
pressure.
(10) Once inlet pressure has been achieved, check
the pressure reading on the proportioning valve out-
let gauge. If the proportioning valve outlet pressure
does not agree with value shown in the table, replace
the proportioning valve. If proportioning valve is
within pressure specifications, the valve is good and
does not require replacement.(11)Reinstall the brake holding tool on the brake
pedal and remove the test equipment from the vehicle.
(12) Remove the tools from the proportioning
valve.
(13) Install the proportioning valve in the master
cylinder and hand tighten until the proportioning
valve is fully installed and its O-ring seal is seated
into the master cylinder. Torque the proportioning
valve to 40 N´m (30 ft. lbs.).
(14) Install the brake tube on the proportioning
valve. Torque the tube nut to 17 N´m (145 in. lbs.).
(15) Bleed the affected brake line. See BASE
BRAKE BLEEDING in this section of this service
manual group.
BRAKE PROPORTIONING VALVE APPLICATIONS AND PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS
Sales
CodeBrake System Type Split Point Slope IdentificationInlet
PressureOutlet Pressure
BRA 14º Disc/Drum 300 psi 0.34 Black Band 1000 psi 550-650 psi
BRD 14º Disc/Disc 400 psi 0.43 Bar Code Band 1000 psi 600-700 psi
BRAKE FLUID CONTAMINATION
Indications of fluid contamination are swollen or
deteriorated rubber parts. Swelling indicates the
presence of petroleum in the brake fluid.
To test for contamination, put a small amount of
drained brake fluid in clear glass jar. If the fluid sep-
arates into layers, there is mineral oil or other fluid
contamination of the brake fluid.
If the brake fluid is contaminated, drain and thor-
oughly flush the brake system. Replace all the rubber
parts or components containing rubber coming into
contact with the brake fluid including: the master
cylinder; proportioning valves; caliper seals; wheel
cylinder seals; ABS hydraulic control unit; and all
hydraulic fluid hoses.
SERVICE PROCEDURES
BRAKE FLUID LEVEL CHECKING
Brake fluid level should be checked a minimum of
twice a year.
Master cylinder reservoirs are marked, FULL and
MIN, indicating the allowable brake fluid level range
in the master cylinder brake fluid reservoir (Fig. 25).
CAUTION: Use only MoparTbrake fluid or an equiv-
alent from a tightly sealed container. Brake fluid
must conform to DOT 3 specifications. Do not use
petroleum-based fluid because seal damage in the
brake system will result.Although there is a range, the preferred level is
FULL. If necessary, adjust the brake fluid level to
the FULL mark on the side of the master cylinder
brake fluid reservoir.
BASE BRAKE BLEEDING
NOTE: For bleeding the ABS hydraulic system,
refer to ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM BLEEDING in
the ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM section of this ser-
vice manual group.
Fig. 25 Master Cylinder
1 ± POWER BRAKE BOOSTER PARTS IDENTIFICATION TAG
2 ± POWER BRAKE BOOSTER
3 ± BRAKE FLUID PRESSURE SWITCH
4 ± MASTER CYLINDER
PLBRAKES 5 - 17
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

Page 104 of 1285

(10) If the vehicle is equipped with antilock
brakes, carefully push the power brake booster for-
ward until the booster contacts the ABS ICU mount-
ing bracket.
(11) If the vehicle does not have antilock brakes,
carefully push the power brake booster forward one
to two inches being careful not to stretch the brake
lines from the master cylinder to the brakes.
(12) Remove the two nuts fastening the brake
pedal bracket to the instrument panel support (Fig.
40).
(13) Carefully remove the brake pedal assembly by
pulling the pedal bracket back toward the instru-
ment panel, releasing the bracket from the booster
studs. Next, tip the bracket down past the input rod,
guiding the rod through the gap left by the missing
brace removed in Step (8). Remove the brake pedal
assembly out from under the instrument panel.
(14) The pedal can be removed from it's bracket by
grinding off the peened end of the shaft, removing
the shaft, pedal and bushings. A service parts pack-
age is available to replace these items.
INSTALLATION
(1) If the pedal has been removed from it's
bracket, install the pedal, bushings and bolt-in-shaft
on the bracket using the available service parts pack-
age.
(2) Install the brake pedal assembly by tipping the
pedal bracket and guiding the power brake booster
mounting portion up past the booster input rod.
Guide the top of the bracket onto the studs protrud-
ing from the instrument panel support (Fig. 40), then
guide the booster mounting portion onto the power
brake booster mounting studs.(3) Push the power brake booster back into mount-
ing position from under the hood.
(4) Install the two nuts fastening the brake pedal
bracket to the instrument panel support (Fig. 40).
Install the nuts all the way, but do not tighten them
at this time.
(5) Install the two lower power brake booster
mounting nuts, but do not tighten them at this time.
(6) Place the tie bar running between the two
upper booster mounting studs onto the studs with
the long flat side facing upward and the curved side
downward.
(7) Install the two upper power brake booster
mounting nuts on their studs.
(8) Tighten all four nuts fastening the brake pedal
bracket to the power brake booster to a torque of 34
N´m (300 in. lbs.).
(9) Tighten the two nuts fastening the brake pedal
bracket to the instrument panel support to a torque
of 34 N´m (300 in. lbs.).
(10) Install the power brake booster input rod on
the pin mounted on the side of the brake pedal.
Install a new retaining clip on the end of the pin
(Fig. 39). Do not reuse the old clip.
NOTE: Prior to installing the brake lamp switch,
make sure the plunger is at it's fully extended posi-
tion.
(11) Hold the brake lamp switch firmly in one
hand. Then using the other hand, pull outward on
the plunger of the brake lamp switch until it has
ratcheted out to its fully extended position.
(12) Mount the brake lamp switch into the bracket
using the following procedure:
²Depress the brake pedal as far down as possible.
²Install the switch in its bracket by aligning the
index tab on the switch with the slot in the mounting
bracket.
²When the switch is fully seated in its bracket,
rotate the switch clockwise approximately 30É to lock
the switch into place.
CAUTION: Do not use excessive force when pulling
back on the brake pedal to adjust the brake lamp
switch. If too much force is used, the switch or
striker can be damaged.
(13) Gently pull back on the brake pedal until the
pedal stops moving. This will ratchet the switch
plunger backward to the correct adjustment position.
(14) Install the dash-to-lower coupling seal in
place over the lower coupling's plastic collar and
dash cover.
(15) Verify the front tires are still in the
STRAIGHT-AHEAD position.
Fig. 40 Brake Pedal Mounting
1 ± CLUTCH CABLE
2 ± BOOSTER MOUNTING NUTS
3 ± UPPER MOUNTING NUTS
PLBRAKES 5 - 25
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Continued)

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