power steering FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis

02-01-02
Brakes

02*01-02

STEERING
WHEEL RIW

TOEBOARD
OR

DASH
METAL
CHECKING
POINTS

STEERING
COLUMN-

STEEL
MEASURING TAPE

VEHICLE

FORD,
MERCURY AND METEOR

FORD,
MERCURY AND METEOR

FORD,
MERCURY AND METEOR

FORD,
MERCURY AND METEOR

FAIRLANE,
MONTEGO AND FALCON

FAIRLANE,
MONTEGO AND FALCON

MUSTANG
AND COUGAR

MUSTANG
AND COUGAR

THUNDERBIRD

CONTINENTAL
MARK III

LINCOLN
CONTINENTAL
TYPE

NON-POWER
DRUM

POWER
DRUM & DISC

NON-POWER
DISC

POLICE
POWER DISC

NON-POWER
DRUM

POWER
DISC

NON-POWER
DRUM

POWER
DISC

POWER
DISC

POWER
DISC

POWER
DISC
PEDAL
FREE

HEIGHT-A

8.09-7.17

6.18-5.99

8.65-7.82

7.58-6.72

8.13-6.91

7.25-5.71

7.49-6.43

6.25-5.56
PEDAL
FREE

HEIGHT-B"

5.96-5.04

5.96-5.04

6.50-5.50
PEDAL

TRAVEL-C

3.10

3.27

2.18

3.27

2.90

2.35

2.58

1.75

3.00

3.00

2.25

NOTE:AgB
DIMENSION TO BE MEASURED TO SHEET METAL

C
DIMENSION TO BE MEASURED PARALLEL TO THE VERTICAL CENTERLINE OF THE

STEERING
COLUMN WITH A 50 POUND LOAD APPLIED TO THE CENTERLINE OF THE

BRAKE
PEDAL PAD. (CHECKS ON POWER BRAKE VEHICLES MADE WITH ENGINE RUNNING

H1630-A

FIG. 1 — Brake Pedal Height and Travel Measurements

Tool-WRE-l

HI525-A

FIG.
2—Brake Pedal Effort Gauge Installed
o'clock position on the steering wheel

rim.

3.
With the steel tape still hooked

to the brake pedal depress the brake

pedal by pressing downward on the

brake pedal effort gauge. Apply a 50

pound load to the center of the pedal

by observing the pressure gauge, and

measure the distance from the brake

pedal to the fixed reference point on

the steering wheel rim parallel to the

centerline of the steering column.

4.
The difference between the brake

pedal free height and the depressed

pedal measurement under a 50 pound

load should be within the specified

maximum pedal travel service specifi-

cation B in Fig. I.

5.
If the pedal travel is more than

the specified maximum shown in Fig.

1,
dimension C, make several sharp

reverse stops (equivalent to 50 pounds

pedal pressure) with a forward stop

before each. Move the vehicle in rev-

erse and forward for a distance of ap-

proximately ten feet; then, apply the

brakes sharply and hold the brake

pedal down until the vehicle is com-

pletely stopped. This will actuate the

brake self-adjusters. If these stops do

not bring the brake pedal travel within

specification, make several additional

forward and reverse stops as outlined

above.

6. If the second series of stops do

not bring the brake pedal travel within

specification, remove the brake drums

and check the brake adjusters to make

sure they are functioning. Check the

brake linings for wear or damage. Re-

pair or replace all worn or damaged

parts and non-functioning adjusters.

Adjust the brake lining outside diame-

ter to the approximate inside diameter

of the brake drum with Rotunda Tool

HRE-8650 (Fig. 12, Part 2-2).

7.
If all the brake adjusters, brake

drums and linings are functional and

the brake travel is not within specifi-

cations, check the pedal linkage for

missing or worn bushings, or loose at-

tachments. Bleed the brakes and cen-

tralize the differential valve.

POWER BRAKE

FUNCTIONAL TEST

1.
Check the hydraulic brake sys-

tem for leaks or insufficient fluid.

2.
With the transmission in neutral,

stop the engine and apply the parking

brake. Depress the brake pedal several

times to exhaust all vacuum in the

system.

3.
With the engine shut off and all

vacuum in the system exhausted, dep-

ress the pedal, and hold it in the ap-

plied position. Start the engine If theprocarmanuals.com

02-02-25
Brake System

02-02-25

clearing the pin. Slide the switch com-

pletely onto the pin, and install the

nylon washer as shown in Figs. 29

thru 33. Be careful not to bend or de-

form the switch. Secure these parts to

the pin with the hairpin retainer. Con-

nect the stop light switch wires to the

connector, and install the wires in the

retaining clip.

BRAKE PEDAL

FORD, MERCURY

AND METEOR

Removal

1.
Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

2.
Remove the hairpin retainer.

Slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin,

and then lift the switch straight up-

ward from the pin. Be careful not to

damage the switch during removal.

Slide the master cylinder or booster

push rod and the nylon washers and

bushing off the brake pedal pin (Figs.

26 and 29).

3.
Remove the hairpin type retainer

and washer from the brake pedal

shaft, then remove the shaft, the brake

pedal and the bushings from the pedal

support bracket.

Installation

1.
Apply a coating of SAE 10 En-

gine oil to the bushings and locate

bushings in their proper places on the

pedal assembly and pedal support

bracket (Figs. 26 and 29).

2.
Position the brake pedal assem-

bly to the support bracket, then install

the pedal shaft through the support

bracket and brake pedal assembly. In-

stall the retainer.

3.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder or booster push

rod, and the bushing on the brake

pedal pin. Position the switch so that

it straddles the push rod with the

switch slot on the pedal pin and the

switch outer hole just clearing the pin.

Slide the switch completely onto the

pin, and install the nylon washer as

shown in Figs. 26 and 29. Be careful

not to bend or deform the switch. Se-

cure these parts to the pin with the

hairpin retainer.

4.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires in the retaining clip.
5.
Check the Brake Pedal Free

Height and Travel Measurements,

Part 2-1, Section 1.

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO AND

FALCON—MANUAL-SHIFT

TRANSMISSION

Removal

1.
Remove the clutch pedal assist

spring.

2.
Disconnect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod at the clutch pedal by

removing the retainer and bushing.

3.
Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

4.
Remove the switch retainer, and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin.

5. Slide the master cylinder or

booster push rod and the nylon wash-

ers and bushing off from the brake

pedal pin (Figs. 27 and 30).

6. Remove the self-locking pin and

washer from the clutch and brake

pedal shaft, then remove the clutch

pedal and shaft assembly, the brake

pedal assembly, and the bushings from

the pedal support bracket (Figs. 27

and 30).

Installation

1.
Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

bushings in their proper places on the

clutch and brake pedal assemblies.

2.
Position the brake pedal to the

support bracket, then install the clutch

pedal and shaft assembly through the

support bracket and brake pedal as-

sembly. Install the spring clip (Figs.

27 and 30).

3.
Install the clutch pedal assist

spring.

4.
Connect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod to the clutch pedal

assembly with the bushing and the

spring clip retainer. Apply SAE 10

engine oil to the bushing.

5.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder or booster push

rod, and the bushing on the brake

pedal pin. Position the switch so that

it straddles the push rod with the

switch slot on the pedal pin and the

switch outer hole just clearing the pin.

Slide the switch completely onto the

pin, and install the outer nylon washer

as shown in Figs. 27 and 30. Secure

these parts to the pin with the
self-

locking pin.
6. Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires to the retaining clip.

7.
Adjust the clutch pedal free play

(Group 5) to specification, if required.

8. Check the Brake Pedal Free

Height and Travel Measurements

(Part 2-1, Section 1).

MUSTANG AND COUGAR—

MANUAL-SHIFT

TRANSMISSION

Removal

1.
Disconnect the battery ground

cable from the battery.

2.
Remove the steering column.

Refer to Part 3-4, Section 2 for pro-

cedure.

3.
On non-power brakes, remove

the two cap screws retaining the mas-

ter cylinder to the dash panel and re-

move the two cap screws retaining the

brake pedal support bracket to the

dash panel. On power brakes remove

the two cap screws retaining the

booster to the dash panel.

4.
Working inside the vehicle, se-

cure the clutch pedal against the

bumper stop with a small C-clamp as

shown in Figs. 28 and 31.

5.
Disconnect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod at the clutch pedal by

removing the retainer and bushing.

6. Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

7.
Remove the switch retainer and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin.
Remove the master cylinder or

booster push rod, bushing and nylon

washer from the brake pedal pin.

8. Remove the screw retaining the

pedal support bracket to the top inner

cowl bracket (Figs. 28 and 31).

9. Remove the two sheet metal

screws retaining the pedal support

bracket to the dash panel. On power

brakes remove the nuts from the

brake booster studs.

10.
Remove the two screws retain-

ing the pedal support bracket to the

upper cowl brace and lower the pedal

support bracket away from the steer-

ing column studs.

11.
Remove the pedal support

bracket assembly from the vehicle.

12.
Position the pedal and support

bracket assembly in a vise.

13.
Remove the C-clamp to release

the clutch pedal from its bumper stop

and pivot the pedal away from the

bumper.procarmanuals.com

02-02-26
Brake System

02-02-26

14.
Remove the clutch pedal assist

spring.

15.
On non-power brakes, remove

the retainer clip from the clutch and

brake pedal shaft, then remove the

clutch pedal and shaft assembly, the

brake pedal assembly, and the bush-

ings from the pedal support bracket.

On power brakes, remove the retainer

nut from the brake pedal shaft then

remove the pedal shaft, the brake

pedal assembly and the bushings from

the pedal support bracket.

Installation

1. Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

bushings in their proper places on the

clutch and brake pedal assemblies.

2.
On non-power brakes, position

the brake pedal to the pedal support

bracket, then install the clutch pedal

and shaft assembly through the sup-

port bracket and brake pedal assem-

bly. On power brakes position the

brake pedal to the pedal support

bracket, then install the pedal shaft

and nut.

3.
Install the clutch pedal assist

spring and pivot the clutch pedal

against its bumper stop. Secure the

pedal to the stop with a small C-

clamp as shown in Figs. 28 and 31.

4.
Position the pedal support

bracket assembly to the dash panel,

and to the steering column retainer

studs.

5.
Align the pedal support bracket

holes with the holes in the dash panel

and install the two attaching sheet

metal screws. On power brakes install

the nuts on the brake booster studs.

6. Install the two cap screws at-

taching the pedal support bracket to

the upper cowl bracket.

7. Install the cap screw attaching

the pedal support bracket to the top

inner cowl bracket (Figs. 28 and 31).

8. Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder push rod, and the

bushing on the brake pedal pin. Posi-

tion the stop light switch so that it

straddles the push rod with the switch

slot on the pedal pin and the switch

outer hole just clearing the pin. Slide

the switch completely onto the pin,

and install the outer nylon washer as

shown in Figs. 28 and 31. Secure

these parts to the pin with the
self-

locking retainer.

9. Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector.

10.
Connect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod to the clutch pedal

assembly with the bushing and the

spring clip retainer. Apply SAE 10
engine oil to the bushing. Remove the

C-clamp from the clutch pedal.

11.
Working from the engine side

of the dash panel, on non-power

brakes, install the two cap screws at-

taching the pedal support bracket to

the dash panel. Then install the two

screws attaching the master cylinder

to the dash panel. On power brakes

install the cap screws retaining the

brake booster to the dash panel.

12.
Install the steering column.

Refer to Part 3-4, Section 2 for pro-

cedure.

13.
Adjust the clutch pedal free

play (Group 5) to specification, if re-

quired.

14.
Check the Brake Pedal Free

Height and Travel Measurements

(Part 2-1, Section 1).

15.
Connect the ground cable to the

battery.

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO,

FALCON, MUSTANG

AND COUGAR-

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION

Removal

1. Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

2.
Remove the self-locking pin and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin. Slide the master cylinder or

booster push rod and the nylon wash-

ers and bushing off from the brake

pedal pin (Figs. 27, 28, 30 and 31).

3.
On all vehicles except Mustang

and Cougar with power brakes, re-

move the self-locking pin and washer

from the brake pedal shaft, then re-

move the shaft, the brake pedal as-

sembly and the bushings from the

pedal support bracket. On Mustang

and Cougar vehicles with power

brakes, remove the locknut and bolt

from the pedal. Remove the pedal as-

sembly from the support bracket (Fig.

3).

Installation

1. Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

the bushings in their proper places on

the pedal assembly and pedal support

bracket (Figs. 27, 28, 30 and 31).

2.
Position the brake pedal assem-

bly to the support bracket, then install

the pedal shaft or bolt through the

support bracket and brake pedal as-

sembly. Install the retainer or locknut.
3.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder or booster push

rod, and the bushing on the brake

pedal pin. Position the switch so that

it straddles the push rod with the

switch slot on the pedal pin, and the

switch outer hole just clearing the pin.

Slide the switch completely onto the

pin, and install the outer nylon washer

as shown in Figs. 27, 28, 30 and 31.

Secure these parts to the pin with the

self-locking pin.

4.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector, and install the

wires in the retaining clip.

Check the Brake Pedal Free Height

and Travel Measurements, Part 2,

Section 1.

THUNDERBIRD
AND

CONTINENTAL MARK
III

Removal

1.
Loosen the booster mounting

nuts.

2.
Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

3.
Remove the hairpin retainer.

Slide the stop light switch off from

the brake pedal pin just far enough

for
the
switch outer hole
to
clear
the

pin,
and then lift the switch straight

upward from the pin. Slide the master

cylinder push rod and the nylon wash-

ers and bushing off from the brake

pedal pin (Fig. 32).

4.
Remove the pivot bolt and nut

that holds the pedal to the pedal sup-

port bracket. Remove the brake pedal

assembly from the pedal support

bracket, and remove the bushings.

Installation

1. Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

the bushings in their proper places on

the pedal assembly (Fig. 32).

2.
Install the brake pedal assembly

and bushings to the support bracket,

and then install the pivot bolt through

the support bracket and brake pedal

assembly. Install the pivot bolt nut

and torque to specifications.

3.
Install the inner nylon washer,

the master cylinder push rod, and the

bushing on the brake pedal pin. Posi-

tion the switch so that it straddles the

push rod with the switch slot on the

pedal pin and the switch outer hole

just clearing the pin. Slide the switch

completely onto the pin, install the

outer nylon washer as shown in Fig.

32.
Secure these parts to the pin with

the hairpin retainer.procarmanuals.com

03-01-01

PART
3-1
PAGE

Suspension,
Steering, Wheels and

Tires,
General Service 03-01-01

PART
3-2

Suspension 03-02-01

PART
3-3

Automatic
Air
Leveling System ....03-03-01

PART
3-4

Automatic
Air
Leveling System

Lincoln Continental 03-04-01

PART
3-5

Steering Columns and Linkage ... 03-05-01

PART
3-6

Manual Steering 03-06-01

PART
3-7

Ford Design Non-Integral Power

Steering System
03-07-01
PART
3-8
PAGE

Ford Design Integral Power

Steering Gear 03-08-01

PART
3-9

Saginaw Design Integral Power

Steering Gear 03-09-01

PART
3-10

Ford-Thompson Power Steering

Pump 03-10-01

PART
3-11

Eaton Power Steering Pump 03-1
1-01

PART 3-12

Wheels and Tires 03-1 2-01

PART
3-13

Specifications
03-13-01

PART
3-1
Suspension,Steering, Wheels
and

Tires—General Service

COMPONENT INDEX

CASTER AND CAMBER ADJUSTMENTS

FRONT
END
INSPECTION

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT CHECKS

LUBRICANT CHECKING PROCEDURE

POWER STEERING GEAR CLEANING

AND INSPECTION

POWER STEERING PRELIMINARY TESTS

POWER STEERING PUMP

Cleaning
and
Inspection

Flow
and
Pressure Tests

POWER STEERING SYSTEM FLUSHING

SHOCK ABSORBER CHECKS

STEERING WHEEL SPOKE POSITION

Adjustment

TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT

WHEEL BALANCING
MODEL APPLICATION
All
Models

01-08

01-03

01-07

01-09

01-02

01-11

01-07

01-07

01-07
Ford
01-05

01-09

01-02

01-09
Mercury
01-05

01-09

01-02

01-09
Meteor
01-05

01-09

01-02

01-09
Cougar
01-06

01-09

01-02

01-09
Fairlane
01-06

01-09

01-02

01-09
Falcon
01-06

01-09

01-02

01-09
Montego
01-06

01-09

01-02

Gl-09
Mustang
01-06

01-09

01-02

01-09
Lincoln-
Continental
01-06

01-09

01-03

N/A
Thunderbird
01-05

01-09

01-02

01-09
Continental-
Mark
III
01-05

01-10

01-03

N/A

A page number indicates that
the
item
is for the
vehicle listed
at the
head
of the
column.

N/A indicates that
the
item
is not
applicable
to the
vehicle listed.
procarmanuals.com

03-01-02
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-02

1 TESTING

POWER STEERING-

PRELIMINARY TESTS

The following preliminary checks

should always be made before per-

forming any operations.

AIR BLEEDING

Air in the power steering system

(shown by bubbles in the fluid) should

be bled. After making sure that the

reservoir is filled to specification (the

fluid must be at normal operating

temperature when the check is made),

turn the steering wheel through its full

travel three or four times. Do not hold

the wheels against their stops. Re-

check the fluid level.

CHECK FLUID LEVEL

Run the engine until the fluid is at

normal operating temperature. Then

turn the steering wheel all the way to

the left and right several times, and

shut off the engine.

Check the fluid level in the power

steering reservoir. The level must show

on the cross hatching between the bot-

tom of the dipstick and the full mark

(Fig. 1). If the level is low, add

enough automatic transmission fluid

C1AZ-19582-A to raise the level to

the F mark on the dipstick. Do not

overfill the reservoir.

CHECK PUMP BELT

If the pump belt is broken, glazed,

or worn, replace it with a new belt.

Use only the specified type of belt.

Refer to Part 3-13 for belt adjustment

procedure.

CHECK FOR FLUID

LEAKS

With the engine idling, turn the

steering wheel from stop to stop sever-

al times. Check all possible leakage

points. Tighten all loose fittings, and

replace any damaged lines or defective

seats.

CHECK TURNING EFFORT

With the front wheels properly al-

igned and tire pressures correct, check

the effort required to turn the steering

wheel.
G 1508- A

FIG.
1—Power
Steering Pump

Dipstick

1.
With the vehicle on dry concrete,

set the parking brakes.

2.
With the engine warmed up and

running at idle speed, turn the steering

wheel to the left and right several

times to warm the fluid.

3.
Attach a pull scale to the rim of

the steering wheel. Measure the pull

required to turn the wheel one com-

plete revolution in each direction. The

effort required to rotate the steering

wheel should not exceed specifications

given in Part 3-13.

POWER STEERING PUMP FLOW

AND PRESSURE TESTS—

EXCEPT LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

AND CONTINENTAL MARK III

The power steering flow and pres-

sure tests will show whether the pump,

steering gear or power assist control

RETURN LINE

POWER

STEERING PUMP

Sr
valve is causing the trouble. Steps out-

lined below should be followed to de-

termine the cause of the trouble.

PUMP FLOW TEST

1.
Depending on the equipment

present on the vehicle (air condition-

ing, power brakes, standard transmis-

sion),
one of the following options

may be used to connect the pump

pressure and return hoses to the test

tool (T56L-3361O-D and T68L-

33610-A):

a. Disconnect the pressure and re-

turn lines at the power steering pump

(Fig. 2). Obtain a power steering re-

turn hose from stock and connect the

end with the fitting to the output fit-

ting of the tool using the
5/8-18
SAE

female, 1/4 N.P. thread male fitting

provided. The end of the stock hose

(without the fitting) should be con-

nected to the return tube of the pump.

Connect the pressure hose from the

tool to the outlet fitting of the pump.

b.
Disconnect the pressure line at

the pump and connect the pressure

line from the test tool to the outlet fit-

ting of the pump. Disconnect the re-

turn line at the gear and connect it to

the output fitting of the tool, using the

5/8-18
SAE female, 1/4 N.P. thread

male fitting provided.

2.
After installing the lines by the

most advantageous method, proceed

as follows:

3.
Open the manual valves A and B

fully (Fig. 2).

CALIBRATED FLOW

DETERMINING ORIFICE

PRESSURE LINE

FIG. 2—Power Steering Pump Test Circuit Diagram
PRESSURE GAGE

G1611-Aprocarmanuals.com

03-01-03
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-03

4.
Connect a tachometer, start the

engine and operate it at idle speed

until the reservoir fluid temperature

reaches 165 to 175. This temperature

must be maintained throughout the

test. Valve B may be partially closed

to create a back pressure up to 350

psi to hasten the temperature rise. The

reservoir fluid must be at the proper

level.

5.
With the engine operating at rec-

ommended idle rpm and fluid temper-

ature noted in Step 4, close the manu-

al valve B. The minimum acceptable

pressure reading is 620 psi.

6. If the pressure gauge reading is

below the minimum specification, the

pump is at fault and should be re-

paired with necessary parts.

7.
If the reading is at or above the

minimum specification, the pump flow

is normal. Open manual valve B and

proceed to the Pump Fluid Pressure

Test.

PUMP FLUID

PRESSURE TEST

1.
Keep the lines and tools con-

nected as in the Pump Flow Test.

2.
With manual valves A and B

opened fully, operate the engine at

recommended idle speed (Fig. 2).

Close manual valve A, then manual

valve B. Do not keep both valves

closed for more than 5 seconds as this

would abnormally increase the fluid

temperature and cause undue pump

and/or gear wear.

3.
With the valves fully closed, the

pressure gauge should read 1000 psi

minimum for Ford, Mercury, Meteor

or Thunderbird and 750 psi minimum

for Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon, Monte-

go or Mustang.

4.
If the pressure gauge reading is

below the minimum specification, the

pump is at fault and should be re-

paired with necessary parts.

5.
If the pressure gauge reading is

at or above the minimum specifica-

tions,
the pump is normal and the

power steering gear or power assist

control valve is at fault.

FLUID PRESSURE TEST-

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

The pressure testing gauge set, tool

T56L-33610-D, requires modification

to make it adaptable for installation

in the power steering hydraulic sys-

tem. The parts required and the modi-

fication procedure are as follows:
OWER STEERING

PRESSURE LINE

INVERTED FLARE

CONNECTOR

%* TUBE x VA" PIPE

FLARED FEMALE COUPW

%' TUBE x VA" PIPE

G1544.A

FIG. 3—Modified Pressure Gauge

Assembly

a. Power Steering Pressure Line

(refer to the appropriate Parts Catal-

og).

b.
Inverted Flare Connector (3/8

inch OD Tube x 1/4 inch Pipe

Thread).

c. Inverted Flare Connector (5/16

inch OD Tube x 1/4 inch Pipe

Thread).

d. Flared Tube Female Coupling

(3/8 inch OD Tube x 1/4 inch Pipe

Thread).

The connectors and the coupling are

standard-type fittings and can be pur-

chased locally.

e. To modify tool T56L-33610-D,

remove the hose from the hand shut-

off valve block. Install the 3/8 inch x

1/4 inch inverted flare connector in

the valve block, and assemble the

pressure line to the connector (Fig. 3).

Assemble the 3/8 x 1/4 inch coupling

and the 5/16-inch connector to the

free end of the hose leading to the.

pressure gauge.

1.
To check the pump pressure, dis-

connect the front and rear sections of

the pressure line over the number 6

cylinder. Connect the modified pres-

sure-testing gauge assembly, tool

T56L-3361O-D, between the two sec-

tions.

2.
Make sure the hand-valve at the

gauge is fully opened. Start the engine

and cycle the steering gear from stop

to stop to warm up the fluid. Check

the fluid level in the reservoir and add

fluid, if necessary.

3.
Turn the steering wheel to the

full right and full left turn positions

and observe the gauge readings.

Hold the wheels in this position

only long enough to obtain an accu-

rate reading. Do not exceed 5 seconds.

The gauge should read between

1120 and 1250 psi. If the pressure is
less than 1120 psi, close the valve at

the gauge and note the pump pressure.

If it is low with the valve closed, it in-

dicates that the pump is not operating

properly. If the pressure goes up with

the valve closed, it indicates that the

low pressure in the system must be

due to internal leakage in the power

unit, providing all connections are

tight.

4.
Remove the pressure testing

gauge set, and connect the pressure

line at the steering gear. Fill and bleed

the system.

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT

CHECKS

Do not attempt to check and adjust

front wheel alignment without first

making a preliminary inspection of

the front-end parts. Refer to Section

3.

Check all the factors of front wheel

alignment except the turning angle

before making any adjustments. The

turning angle should be checked only

after caster, camber, and toe-in have

been adjusted to specifications.

The front wheel alignment specifica-

tions given in Part 3-13, are correct

only when the vehicle is at curb load.

Before checking or adjusting the

alignment factors, the suspension

alignment spacers must be installed to

obtain the curb Height.

EQUIPMENT INSTALLATION

Equipment used for front wheel

alignment inspection must be accu-

rate.
Whenever possible, front wheel

alignment checks should be performed

on stationary wheel aligning equip-

Too/
- T65P3000-A or S

FIG. 4—Typical Front Alignment

Spacer Installation—Cougar,

Fairlane, Falcon,
Montego,
Mustangprocarmanuals.com

03-01-05
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-05

type of equipment is used, follow the

installation and inspection instructions

provided by the equipment manufactu-

rer.

CASTER

Check the caster angle at each front

wheel.

The caster is the forward or rear-

ward tilt of the top of the wheel

spindle (Fig. 12). If the spindle tilts to

the rear, caster is positive. If the

spindle tilts to the front, caster is neg-

ative. The correct caster angle, or tilt,

is specified in Part 3-13.

On Mustang, Cougar, Fairlane,

Falcon and Montego vehicles, the

maximum caster difference for check-

ing purposes must not exceed one de-

gree.
If setting is necessary, then the

maximum difference must not exceed

1/2 degree. On all other vehicles, the

maximum caster difference must never

exceed 1/2 degree.

CAMBER

Check the camber angle at each

front wheel.

Camber is the amount the front

wheels are tilted at the top (Fig. 12).

If a wheel tilts outward, camber is

positive. If a wheel tilts inward, cam-

ber is negative. The correct camber

angle, or outward (positive) tilt is

specified in Part 3-13.

On Mustang, Cougar, Fairlane,

Falcon and Montego vehicles, the

maximum camber difference for

checking purposes must not exceed

one degree. If setting is necessary,
then the maximum difference must

not exceed 1/2 degree. On all other

vehicles, the maximum camber differ-

ence must never exceed 1/2 degree.

TOE-IN

Alignment height spacers should not

be used to check and adjust toe-in.

Toe-in should only be checked and ad-

justed after the caster and camber

have been adjusted to specifications.

Check the toe-in with the front

wheels in the straight-ahead position.

Run the engine so that the power

steering control valve will be in the

center (neutral) position (if so

equipped). Measure the distance be-

tween the extreme front and also be-

tween the extreme rear of both front

wheels. The difference between these

two distances is the toe-in or toe-out.

Correct toe-in, or inward pointing

of both front wheels at the front is

specified in Part 3-13.

FRONT WHEEL

TURNING ANGLE

When the inside wheel is turned 20

degrees, the turning angle of the out-

side wheel should be as specified in

Part 3-13. The turning angle cannot

be adjusted directly, because it is a re-

sult of the combination of caster,

camber, and toe-in adjustments and

should, therefore, be measured only

after these adjustments have been

made. If the turning angle does not

measure to specifications, check the

spindle or other suspension parts for a

bent condition.
ALIGNMENT
MARKS

G-1496-A

FIG. I?—Straight Ahead Position

Marks—Typical

POSITIVE

CAMBER

• •
NEGATIVE-*!
| ^*—

CASTER

ICL
OF TIRE
POSITIVE

CASTER

5r\

CA&U

ANGlE
F1216-A

FIG. 72—Caster and Camber

Angles

COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

After front wheel alignment factors

have been checked, make the neces-

sary adjustments. Do not attempt to

adjust front wheel alignment by bend-

ing the suspension or steering parts.

CASTER AND CAMBER

ADJUSTMENTS

FORD, MERCURY, METEOR,

THUNDERBIRDAND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Caster and camber is adjusted by

loosening the bolts that attach the

upper suspension arm inner shaft to

the frame side rail, and moving the

inner shaft in or out in the elongated

bolt holes with the tool shown in Fig.
13.
The tool should be installed with

the tool pins in the frame holes and

the hooks over the upper arm inner

shaft. Then, tighten the tool hook nuts

snug before loosening the upper arm

inner shaft attaching bolts.

Caster

To adjust the caster angle, tighten

the tool front hook nut or loosen the

rear hook nut (Fig. 14) as required to

increase caster to the desired angle.

To decrease caster, tighten the tool

rear hook nut or loosen the front

hook nut as required (Fig. 14). The

caster angle can be checked without

tightening the inner shaft attaching

bolts.
Check the camber adjustment to

be sure it did not change during the

caster adjustment and adjust if neces-
FIG. 73—Camber and Caster

Adjusting Toolprocarmanuals.com

03-01-09
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-09

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the upper ball

joint.

LOWER BALL JOINT

INSPECTION

Ford,
Mercury, Meteor,

Thunderbird, Lincoln Continental

and Continental Mark III

1.
Raise the vehicle and place

jacks under the lower arms as shown

in Fig. 12. This will unload the lower

ball joints.

2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as des-

cribed in Part 3-12.

3.
Attach a dial indicator to the

lower arm and position the indicator

so that the plunger rests against the

inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to

the lower ball joint.

4.
Grasp the tire at the top and

bottom and slowly move the tire in

and out (Fig. 19). Note the reading

(radial play) on the dial indicator. If

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the lower ball

joint.

Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon,

Montego, Mustang

1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame

contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the wheel

falls to the full down position.

2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tire and move the

wheel in and out.

3.
As the wheel is being moved in

and out, observe the lower end of the

spindle and the lower arm.

4.
Any movement between the

lower end of the spindle and the lower

arm indicates ball joint wear and loss

of preload. If any such movement is

observed, replace the lower arm.

During the foregoing check, the

upper ball joint will be unloaded and

may move. Disregard all such move-

ment of the upper ball joint. Also, do

not mistake loose wheel bearings for a

worn ball joint.

POWER STEERING GEAR

CLEANING

Disassembly and assembly of the

steering gear and. the sub-assemblies

must be made on a clean workbench.

As in repairing any hydraulically op-

erated unit, cleanliness is of utmost
importance. The bench, tools, and

parts must be kept clean at all times.

Thoroughly clean the exterior of the

unit with a suitable solvent and, when

necessary drain as much of the hy-

draulic fluid as possible. Handle all

parts very carefully to avoid nicks,

burrs,
scratches and dirt, which could

make the parts unfit for use.

Do not clean, wash or soak seals in

cleaning solvent.

INSPECTION

1.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the cover for wear. If worn,

replace the cover.

2.
Inspect the input shaft bearing

for cracked races and the balls for

looseness, wear, pitting, end play or

other damage. Check the fit of the

bearing on the input shaft. Replace

the bearing, if required.

3.
Inspect the valve housing for

wear, scoring or burrs.

4.
Inspect the tube seats in the

pressure and return ports in the valve

body for nicks, etc. If necessary, re-

move and replace.

5.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the housing for wear. If

worn, replace the bushing or the hous-

ing.

6. Check all fluid passages for ob-

struction or leakage.

7.
Inspect the steering gear housing

for cracks, stripped threads, and mat-

ing surfaces for burrs. Inspect the pis-

ton bore of the housing for scoring or

wear. If necessary, replace the hous-

ing.

8. Check the input shaft bearing

after installation to be sure that it ro-

tates freely.

9. If the valve spool is not free in

the valve housing, check for burrs at

the outward edges of the working

lands in the housing and remove with

a hard stone. Check the valve spool

for burrs and if burrs are found, stone

the valve in a radial direction only.

Check for freedom of the valve again.

10.
Check the piston rack teeth and

sector shaft teeth for nicks and burrs.

FLUSHING THE POWER

STEERING SYSTEM—ALL EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Should it be necessary to replace an

inoperative power steering pump, the

need for flushing the steering system

is required when installing the new

pump.
1.
Remove the power steering pump

and remove the pulley as outlined in

Part 3-10.

2.
Install the pulley on a new

pump. Install the pump and connect

only the pressure hose to the pump

(Part 3-10).

3.
Place the fluid return line in a

suitable container and plug the reser-

voir return pipe.

4.
Fill the reservoir with lubricant

(C1AZ-19582-A).

5.
Disconnect the coil wire to pre-

vent the engine from starting and raise

the front wheels off the ground.

6. While approximately two quarts

of steering gear fluid are being poured

into the reservoir, turn the engine over

using the ignition key, at the same

time cycle the steering wheel from

stop to stop.

7.
As soon as all of the lubricant

has been poured in, turn off the igni-

tion key, and attach the coil wire.

8. Remove the plug from the reser-

voir return pipe, and attach the return

hose to the reservoir.

9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if

low, add fluid to the proper level. Do

not overfill.

10.
Lower the vehicle.

11.
Start the engine and cycle the

steering from stop to stop to expel

any trapped air from the system.

POWER STEERING PUMP—ALL

EXCEPT LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

CLEANING

Wash all parts (except seals) in a

Naptha or Chlorinated-type solvent

and dry with compressed air.

Punch or Rod

RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER

G1607-A

FIG.
20—Cleaning Pump Relief Valveprocarmanuals.com

03-01-10
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-10

The following procedure should be

followed when cleaning the relief valve

which is a part of the pump valve as-

sembly.

1.
Using a punch or rod of suitable

diameter, apply an even pressure in a

straight line to the tip of the relief

valve pin (Fig. 20). Depress the valve

two or three times to exhaust the oil

which is trapped in the assembly. Do

not hammer on the valve pin or hous-

ing.

2.
Submerge the assembly in a con-

tainer of clean solvent. Again applying

an even pressure to the tip of the relief

valve pin, (a sudden strong force could

push the pin through the relief valve

spool) move the valve in and out sev-

eral times, thereby thoroughly flushing

the assembly. Pressure created within

the valve bore when the valve is moved

inward should force the cleaning fluid

out through the sensing orifice. If this

does not occur, the sensing orifice

should be cleaned with a piece of wire.

The valve must move freely and even-

ly. If the pin is bent or damaged, or if

the valve binds, the pump valve must

be replaced.

INSPECTION

The following describes the compo-

nents of the power steering pump

which must be replaced regardless of

condition and how to determine when

other components should be replaced.

The outlet fitting hex nut may be

reused if the corners of the hex are

not rounded. The housing bolts may

be reused if the threads are not dam-

aged.

All gaskets and seals must be re-

placed with new components except

the rotor shaft seal which should be

reused unless it was leaking.

The reservoir assembly may be

reused if the reservoir seal and gasket

areas are not damaged (dents, scratch-

es,
etc.). The soldered joints of the re-

turn and fill tubes must not be loose

or bent. Be sure to check for a broken

baffle.

The housing or housing assembly

may be reused if there is no damage

(scratches, etc.) at reservoir gasket,

outlet fitting or cover seal areas.

If the outlet fitting is damaged, the

pump housing must be replaced. The

pressure plate springs may be reused

providing they are not bent, broken or

have not taken a set.

Do not reuse the retainer end plate

if it is burred or damaged. The upper

pressure plate may be reused if there

is no scoring on the wear surface. It is

acceptable to polish the phosphate

coating.
The rotor and cam assembly can be

reused if there is no wear other than

the removal of the phosphate coating

on the cam contour. Do not disas-

semble the rotor and cam assembly.

Push the rotor part way out the cam

insert taking care not to let the slip-

pers and springs fall out. Check the

cam ID for scoring and burning.

Check the rotor faces and OD for

scoring and chipping. Do not attempt

to repair or refinish the lower and

upper pressure plates, cam or rotor

assembly. When wear or burning is

encountered, replace, them with new

components.

Install a new rotor and cam assem-

bly if the slippers are worn. Replace

the springs if they are bent or broken.

Polishing the phosphate coating of the

slipper sealing surface is permissable.

The rotor shaft can be reused if the

front and rear thrust faces, the bush-

ing diameter and the shaft seal diame-

ter are not excessively worn or scored.

The housing plate and bushing as-

sembly may be reused if all of the

threaded holes are not damaged

beyond repair and the bushing diame-

ter is not scored or worn .0005 inch

over the maximum dimension of .6897

inch. Threaded holes can be repaired

by drilling out the damaged threads

and installing a helicoil insert. If the

bushing is scored or excessively worn,

a new plate and bushing assembly

must be installed.

With Tool T69P-3D608-A (using a

dial indicator) check the squareness of

the fixed dowel pin in the plate (Fig.

21).
The pin must be square with the

adjacent surface within .001 inch per

inch through a 180 degree arch.

A bent or broken dowel pin can be

replaced as follows:
1.
Hold the plate assembly in a

horizontal position and grip at least

an inch of the dowel pin in a vise. Tap

the plate with a plastic or a rubber

hammer to pull the pin from the

plate.

2.
Insert the support guide (Tool

T69P-3D608-B) over a dowel pin (Fig.

22) and press the pin into the plate to

a height of 1.68 inch (See Fig. 23).

The support guide tool will serve as a

stop guide. Be careful not to bend the

new dowel pin during installation.

3.
Again use Tool T69P-3D608-A

(with a dial indicaator) to check the

dowel pin squareness as outlined

above.

POWER STEERING PUMP

INSPECTION—LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

1.
Wash all parts in clean solvent

and dry them with clean cloths or

compressed air.

2.
Inspect the rotor shaft for wear,

scoring, nicks, or burrs. Replace the

shaft if it is damaged or if the inner

keyway is damaged.

Tool
T69P-3D608-B

G1609-A

FIG. 22—Dowel Pin Insertion

Tool
T69P-3D608-A

G1608-A

FIG. 21—Dowel Pin Squareness

Check
FIG. 23 — Replacing Dowel Pinprocarmanuals.com

03-05-20
Steering Columns And Linkage

03-05-20

placed if it becomes worn or damaged

(Figs.
18 through 21). Do not attempt

to straighten the sleeve if damaged.

1.
Remove the spindle connecting

rod end assemblies as described in the

previous sub-section.

2.
Screw the spindle rod end assem-

blies into the new sleeve the same

number of turns as the ends that were

removed. Do not tighten the clamp

bolts at this time.

3.
Position the sleeve and end as-

sembly on the center link and the

spindle arm. Install the attaching nut,

torque it to specification, and install

the cotter pin.

4.
Check and, if necessary, adjust

toe-in (Part 3-1). After toe-in is

checked and adjusted, oil the sleeve

clamp bolts then torque them to speci-

fication. The sleeve clamp must be in-

stalled as shown in Figs. 18 through

21.

CENTER LINK

REPLACEMENT

The center link connecting the Pit-

man arm and the idler arm is non-

adjustable and is provided with ta-

pered holes to accommodate the ball

studs (Figs. 18 through 21). The link

should be replaced when damaged or

when worn at the ball studs. On Lin-

coln Continental models, the link

should be replaced if excessive loose-

ness is noticed in either ball stud sock-

et.

REMOVAL

1.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist and

position safety stands.

2.
Remove the cotter pins and nuts

that attach both inner connecting rod

ends to the center link (Figs. 18

through 21).

3.
Disconnect the inner connecting

rod ends from the center link using

Tool 3290-C (Fig. 22).

4.
Remove the cotter pin and nut

attaching the idler arm to the center

link. Disconnect the idler arm from

the center link using Tool 3290-C for

Lincoln Continental models only.

5.
Remove the cotter pin and nut

attaching the Pitman arm to the cen-

ter link. Disconnect the Pitman arm

from the center link (use Tool 3290-C)

and remove the center link. On ve-

hicles equipped with the non-integral

power steering system, remove the

center link from the control valve as

detailed in Part 3-7.

INSTALLATION

1.
Replace the rubber seals on the
spindle connecting rod ends, if re-

quired.

2.
Position the center link to the

Pitman arm and idler arm and install

the attaching nuts loosely. On all ve-

hicles except Lincoln Continental

models, place the idler arm and the

front wheels in the straight ahead po-

sition to insure keeping the steering

wheel aligned and to prevent bushing

damage after the attaching nuts have

been torqued. On Lincoln Continental

models, insure that the seal is properly

installed on the center link. Torque

the nuts to the low end of the specifi-

cation. Continue to tighten each nut

until the slots in the nut align with the

hole in the stud. Then install a new

cotter pin.

3.
Position the spindle connecting

rod ends to the center link and install

the attaching nuts. Torque the nuts to

the low end of the specification. Con-

tinue to tighten each nut until the

slots in the nut align with the hole in

the stud. Then, install a new cotter

pin.

4.
Remove the safety stands, lower

the vehicle, check and adjust toe-in to

specification (Part 3-1).

STEERING IDLER ARM

AND BRACKET ASSEMBLY

REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL

If the idler arm bushings are worn

the complete idler arm assembly must

be replaced. In Lincoln Continental

models, if the socket at the idler

bracket is excessively loose, replace

the complet assembly.

1.
Remove the cotter pin and nut

attaching the steering center link at

the idler arm (Figs. 18 through 21).

2.
Disconnect the center link from

the idler arm (on Lincoln Continental

models, use Tool 3290-C).

3.
Remove the two bolts that attach

the idler arm and bracket assembly to

the frame.

INSTALLATION

1.
Secure the new idler arm and

bracket assembly to the frame with

the two attaching bolts (nuts and flat

washers as shown in Figs. 18, 19 and

21).

2.
On all vehicles except Lincoln

Continental models, place the idler

arm and the front wheels in the

straight ahead position to insure keep-

ing the steering wheel aligned and to
prevent bushing damage after the at-

taching nut has been torqued. Insert

the center link stud through the hole

in the end of the idler arm and install

the nut and washer.

On Lincoln Continental models, in-

sert the center link stud through the

hole in the end of the idler arm insur-

ing that the seal is properly installed

on the center link.

3.
Torque the idler arm rod nut to

specification and install a new cotter

pin.

PITMAN ARM

REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL

1.
Remove the cotter pin from the

castellated nut that attaches the steer-

ing center link to the Pitman arm.

Remove the castellated nut.

2.
Disconnect the steering center

link from the Pitman arm with tool

3290-C.

3.
Remove the Pitman arm attaching

nut and lock washer.

4.
Position the front wheels in the

straight ahead position. Remove the

Pitman arm with tool T64P-3590-F

(Fig. 23).

INSTALLATION

1.
With the front wheels in the

straight ahead position, place the Pit-

man arm on the sector shaft making

sure it is pointing forward.

2.
Install the nut and lock washer.

Torque the nut to specification.

G1663-A

FIG. 23— Removing Pitman

Arm—Typicalprocarmanuals.com