stop start FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis

02-01-02
Brakes

02*01-02

STEERING
WHEEL RIW

TOEBOARD
OR

DASH
METAL
CHECKING
POINTS

STEERING
COLUMN-

STEEL
MEASURING TAPE

VEHICLE

FORD,
MERCURY AND METEOR

FORD,
MERCURY AND METEOR

FORD,
MERCURY AND METEOR

FORD,
MERCURY AND METEOR

FAIRLANE,
MONTEGO AND FALCON

FAIRLANE,
MONTEGO AND FALCON

MUSTANG
AND COUGAR

MUSTANG
AND COUGAR

THUNDERBIRD

CONTINENTAL
MARK III

LINCOLN
CONTINENTAL
TYPE

NON-POWER
DRUM

POWER
DRUM & DISC

NON-POWER
DISC

POLICE
POWER DISC

NON-POWER
DRUM

POWER
DISC

NON-POWER
DRUM

POWER
DISC

POWER
DISC

POWER
DISC

POWER
DISC
PEDAL
FREE

HEIGHT-A

8.09-7.17

6.18-5.99

8.65-7.82

7.58-6.72

8.13-6.91

7.25-5.71

7.49-6.43

6.25-5.56
PEDAL
FREE

HEIGHT-B"

5.96-5.04

5.96-5.04

6.50-5.50
PEDAL

TRAVEL-C

3.10

3.27

2.18

3.27

2.90

2.35

2.58

1.75

3.00

3.00

2.25

NOTE:AgB
DIMENSION TO BE MEASURED TO SHEET METAL

C
DIMENSION TO BE MEASURED PARALLEL TO THE VERTICAL CENTERLINE OF THE

STEERING
COLUMN WITH A 50 POUND LOAD APPLIED TO THE CENTERLINE OF THE

BRAKE
PEDAL PAD. (CHECKS ON POWER BRAKE VEHICLES MADE WITH ENGINE RUNNING

H1630-A

FIG. 1 — Brake Pedal Height and Travel Measurements

Tool-WRE-l

HI525-A

FIG.
2—Brake Pedal Effort Gauge Installed
o'clock position on the steering wheel

rim.

3.
With the steel tape still hooked

to the brake pedal depress the brake

pedal by pressing downward on the

brake pedal effort gauge. Apply a 50

pound load to the center of the pedal

by observing the pressure gauge, and

measure the distance from the brake

pedal to the fixed reference point on

the steering wheel rim parallel to the

centerline of the steering column.

4.
The difference between the brake

pedal free height and the depressed

pedal measurement under a 50 pound

load should be within the specified

maximum pedal travel service specifi-

cation B in Fig. I.

5.
If the pedal travel is more than

the specified maximum shown in Fig.

1,
dimension C, make several sharp

reverse stops (equivalent to 50 pounds

pedal pressure) with a forward stop

before each. Move the vehicle in rev-

erse and forward for a distance of ap-

proximately ten feet; then, apply the

brakes sharply and hold the brake

pedal down until the vehicle is com-

pletely stopped. This will actuate the

brake self-adjusters. If these stops do

not bring the brake pedal travel within

specification, make several additional

forward and reverse stops as outlined

above.

6. If the second series of stops do

not bring the brake pedal travel within

specification, remove the brake drums

and check the brake adjusters to make

sure they are functioning. Check the

brake linings for wear or damage. Re-

pair or replace all worn or damaged

parts and non-functioning adjusters.

Adjust the brake lining outside diame-

ter to the approximate inside diameter

of the brake drum with Rotunda Tool

HRE-8650 (Fig. 12, Part 2-2).

7.
If all the brake adjusters, brake

drums and linings are functional and

the brake travel is not within specifi-

cations, check the pedal linkage for

missing or worn bushings, or loose at-

tachments. Bleed the brakes and cen-

tralize the differential valve.

POWER BRAKE

FUNCTIONAL TEST

1.
Check the hydraulic brake sys-

tem for leaks or insufficient fluid.

2.
With the transmission in neutral,

stop the engine and apply the parking

brake. Depress the brake pedal several

times to exhaust all vacuum in the

system.

3.
With the engine shut off and all

vacuum in the system exhausted, dep-

ress the pedal, and hold it in the ap-

plied position. Start the engine If theprocarmanuals.com

02-01-03
Brakes

02-01-03

vacuum system is operating, the pedal

will tend to fall away under foot pres-

sure and less pressure will be required

to hold the pedal in the applied posi-

tion. If no action is felt, the vacuum

booster system is not functioning.

If the brake pedal movement feels

spongy, bleed the hydraulic system to

remove air from the system. Refer to

Hydraulic System Bleeding, Part 1,

Section 2.

VACUUM TESTS—VACUUM

RELEASE PARKING BRAKES

Visually check the operation of the

brake linkage as the brake pedal is

depressed. Then, check the operation

of the brake linkage when the manual

release lever is activiated. These

checks should indicate whether the

manual parking brake control linkage

is operating properly or requires re-

pair or adjustment due to inability of

the parking brake to hold against

moderate vehicle movement. Perform

tests of the parking brake system and

controls after making certain the link-

age and manual controls operate

properly.

When testing a parking brake vacu-

um release system, a minimum of 10

inches of vacuum (Hg.) should be

available at all points where vacuum is

applied. This can be checked with a

Rotunda Fuel Pump Tester Gauge

(ARE345) and two Distributor Tester

hose adapters (Marked Q) connected

together with a coupling. This allows

the Fuel Pump Tester Gauge hose to
be adapted to any other vacuum hose

or rubber connector in the vacuum

systems.

Failure to maintain 10 inches of

vacuum (Hg.) during vacuum system

tests could be caused by a loose hose

connection, resulting in a vacuum

leak. When checking for vacuum be-

tween two points, trace the hose along

the entire routing to be sure it is not

crossed with another hose and con-

nected to the wrong connection.

All of the vacuum parking brake

control checks are to be performed

with the engine running at idle speed.

Leaks in the parking brake hoses or

a disconnected or improperly con-

nected hose can usually be found by

listening for a hissing sound along the

hose routings. Under no circumstances

should air pressure be applied to the

vacuum system as the actuator dia-

phragm in the parking brake vacuum

motor may be damaged.

1.
Start the engine and run it at

idle speed. With the transmission shift

control in neutral, depress the parking

brake pedal to apply the parking

brake. Move the transmission shift

control to D range and observe the

parking brake pedal to see that the

pedal moves upward and the parking

brake releases. If the parking brake

releases, the parking brake vacuum

control is working properly.

2.
If the parking brake does not re-

lease, test for vacuum at the steering

column neutral switch port in the

junction block, vacuum lines and the

parking brake release vacuum motor.

Use the Rotunda Vacuum and Fuel
Pump Tester 345. This can be accom-

plished by removing the hose from

each component and attaching it to

the vacuum gauge. Connect two dis-

tributor tester vacuum hose adapters

together with a coupling as a connec-

tor to attach the gauge. A minimum

of ten inches of vacuum is required to

actuate the parking brake vacuum

motor. Do not remove any of the vac-

uum hoses from the junction block

unless the junction block is being re-

placed, as the plastic nipples are thin

and very brittle and damage may re-

sult. If a minimum reading is not

present when checking each of the

aforementioned components, they

must be replaced.

ROAD TEST

A road test should be conducted

only when the operator is sure the

brakes will stop the vehicle.

If the road test reveals one or more

problem conditions, correct all mal-

functions of the vacuum system, brake

booster and hydraulic system prior to

removing brake drums, brake calipers,

brake shoes and linings or backing

plates.

ANTI-SKID CONTROL

SYSTEM TESTS

No adjustments or repairs are to be

performed on the skid control system.

Damaged or worn parts are to be re-

placed.

Refer to Ford Car and Truck Diag-

nosis Manual for Testing procedures.

COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

PARKING BRAKE LINKAGE

ADJUSTMENT

FORD, MERCURY, METEOR,

FAIRLANE, MONTEGO,

FALCON, MUSTANG

AND COUGAR

Check the parking brake cables

when the brakes are fully released. If1

the cables are loose, adjust them as

follows:

1.
Fully release the parking brake

pedal by pulling the release lever.

2.
Depress the parking brake pedal

until it is engaged in the first notch of

the control. On a vacuum release

brake, the first notch will be approxi-

mately two inches of pedal travel.

3.
Raise the vehicle. With the

transmission in neutral, turn the ad-

justing nut forward against the equal-

izer (Figs. 3 and 4) until there is 100
L.H. REAR WHEEL CABLE -2A809> 2A791 (2 REQUIRED)

EQUALIZER-TO-ACTUATOR CABLE-2A815

R.H. REAR WHEEL CABLE-2A635

ADJUSTING NUT-2A812

H 1537-C

FIG. 3—Parking Brake Adjustment—Ford, Mercury, Meteor,

Thunderbird and Continental Mark IIIprocarmanuals.com

02-01-06

Brakes

02-01-06

side.
Refill the master cylinder reser-

voir after each wheel cylinder is bled

and install the master cylinder cover

and gasket. Be sure the diaphragm

type gasket is properly positioned in

the master cylinder cover. When the

bleeding operation is completed, the

fluid level should be filled to within

1/4 inch of the top of the reservoirs.

7. If the primary (front brake) sys-

tem is to be bled. Repeat steps 2

through 6 at the right front brake cal-

iper or cylinder and ending at the left

front brake caliper or cylinder.

8. On disc brake equipped models

be sure that the front brake pistons

are returned to their normal positions

and that the shoe and lining assem-

blies are properly seated by depressing

the brake pedal several times until

normal pedal travel is established.

9. Centralize the pressure differen-

tial valve. Refer to the Centralizing

the Pressure Differential Valve proce-

dures which follow.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

The Lincoln Continental hydraulic

brake system is to be bled only with

pressure bleeding equipment.

Bleed the longest lines first. The

bleeder tank should contain enough

new Ford Brake Fluid to complete the

bleeding operation. Use Ford Brake

Fluid — Extra Heavy Duty — Part

Number C6AZ-19542-A (ESA-

M6C25-A) or equivalent for all brake

applications. The brake fluid is col-

ored blue for identification purposes.

Do not mix low temperature brake

fluid with the specified brake fluid

during the bleeding operations. Never

re-use brake fluid that has been

drained from the hydraulic system.

The tank should be charged with ap-

proximately 10 to 30 pounds of air

pressure. Never exceed 50 pounds

pressure.

1.
Clean all dirt from the master

cylinder reservoir cover.

2.
Remove the master cylinder res-

ervoir cover and rubber gasket, and

fill the master cylinder reservoir with

the specified brake fluid. Install the

pressure bleeder adapter tool to the

master cylinder, and attach the bleed-

er tank hose to the fittng on the

adapter.

Master cylinder pressure bleeder

adapter tools can be obtained from

the various manufacturers of pressure

bleeding equipment. Follow the in-

structions of the manufacturer when

installing the adapter.

3.
If the master cylinder is

equipped with a bleed screw, loosen
the bleed screw and bleed the master

cylinder until the fluid is free of air

bubbles; then, tighten the bleed screw.

Do not use the secondary piston stop

screw, located on the bottom of the

master cylinder, to bleed the master

cylinder.

4.
If the rear wheel cylinders, the

secondary brake system, are to be

bled, position a 3/8 inch box wrench

(Fig. 9) on the bleeder fitting on the

right rear brake wheel cylinder. At-

tach a bleeder tube to the bleeder fit-

ting. The end of the tube should fit

snugly around the bleeder fitting.

5. Open the valve on the bleeder

tank to admit pressurized brake fluid

to the master cylinder reservoir.

6. Submerge the free end of the

tube in a container partially filled with

clean brake fluid, and loosen the

bleeder fitting.

7.
When air bubbles cease to ap-

pear in the fluid at the submerged end

of the bleeder tube, close the bleeder

fitting and remove the tube.

8. Repeat steps 3 through 7 at the

left rear wheel cylinder.

9. If the vehicle is equipped with

disc brakes, repeat steps 4 through 7,

starting at the right front disc caliper

and ending at the left front disc cali-

per.

On Lincoln Continental models the

front wheel and tire assemblies must
be removed to gain access to the

bleeder fittings on the calipers. Also

on Lincoln Continental models the

metering valve release rod must be

pulled outward and held a minimum

of 1/16 inch (Fig. 10) while bleeding

the primary brake system.

10.
If the vehicle contains drum-

type front brakes and the primary

(front) brake system is to be bled, re-

peat steps 4 through 7, starting at the

right front wheel cylinder ending at

the left front wheel cylinder.

11.
When the bleeding operation is

completed, close the bleeder tank

valve and remove the tank hose from

the adapter fitting.

12.
On disc brake equipped ve-

hicles,
be sure that the front brake

pistons are returned to their normal

positions and that the shoe and lining

assemblies are properly seated by dep-

ressing the brake pedal several times

until normal pedal travel is esta-

blished.

13.
Remove the Pressure Bleeder

Adapter Tool. Fill the master cylinder

reservoirs to within 1/4 inch of the

top.
Install the master cylinder cover

and gasket. Be sure the Diaphragm

type gasket is properly positioned in

the master cylinder cover.

14.
Centralize the pressure differen-

tial valve as follows.

METERING VALVE

BLEEDER RETAINER

SEE

VIEW A

RELEASE ROD

FIG. 10—Disc Brake Metering Valve—Lincoln Continental
HI 644-Aprocarmanuals.com

02-02-16
Brake System

02-02-16

fitting that connects the tube to the

cylinder. Do not pull the metal tube

away from the cylinder. Pulling the

tube out of the cylinder connection

will bend the metal tube and make in-

stallation difficult. The tube will sepa-

rate from the cylinder when the cylin-

der is removed from the backing

plate.

4.
On all except the front wheels on

Ford, Mercury, and Meteor models,

remove the wheel cylinder attaching

bolts and lock washers and remove the

cylinder. On the front wheel of Ford,

Mercury and Meteor models, remove

the nut and washer that attaches the

cylinder to the anchor pin. Remove

the cylinder from the anchor pin.

INSTALLATION

Wipe the end(s) of the hydraulic

line to remove any foreign matter be-

fore making connections.

1.
On all models except Ford, Mer-

cury and Meteor, to install a front

wheel cylinder, position the cylinder to

the backing plate. Install the two lock

washers and attaching bolts. Torque

them to specifications.

On Ford, Mercury and Meteor

models, to install a front wheel cylin-

der, position the cylinder on the an-

chor pin against the backing plate. In-

stall the washer and cylinder attaching

nut on the anchor pin, and torque it

to specification. Lock the washer re-

tainer securely.

2.
Install a new copper gasket over

the hose fitting. Thread the hose into

the cylinder and tighten it to specified

torque.

3.
Engage the opposite end of the

hose to the bracket on the frame. In-

stall the horseshoe-type retaining clip,

and connect the brake tube to the

hose with the tube fitting nut. Tighten

the nut to specification with tool

1112-144.

4.
To install a rear wheel cylinder,

place the rear wheel cylinder into po-

sition. Enter the tubing into the cylin-

der, and start the tube fitting nut into

the threads of the cylinder.

5.
Secure the cylinder to the back-

ing plate by installing the attaching

bolts and lock washers.

6. Tighten the tube fitting nut to

specification with tool 1112-144.

7.
Install the links in the ends of

the wheel cylinder, install the shoes

and adjuster assemblies, and adjust

the shoes as outlined in this section.

8. Adjust the brakes (Part 2-2, Sec-

tion 2). Install the brake drum and

wheel. Bleed the brakes and centralize

the differential valve as outlined in

Part 2-1, Section 2.
BRAKE BACKING PLATE

DRUM BRAKE

REMOVAL

1.
Remove the wheel and brake

drum. Disconnect the brake line from

the brake cylinder.

2.
Remove the brake shoe and ad-

juster assemblies and the wheel cylin-

der as outlined in this section. On the

rear wheels, disconnect the parking

brake lever from the cable.

3.
If the rear backing plate is being

replaced, remove the axle shaft from

the applicable rear axle as outlined in

Group 4, Part 4-2— Rear Axle, Sec-

tion 2, disengage parking brake cable

retainer from backing plate. Remove

the backing plate and gasket.

If the front backing plate is being

replaced, remove the bolts and nuts

that secure the backing plate to the

front wheel spindle and remove the

plate and gasket.

INSTALLATION

If a rear backing plate is to be re-

placed, position a new rear backing

plate and gasket on the attaching

bolts in the axle housing flange. Insert

parking brake cable into backing plate

and secure retaining fingers. Install

the rear axle shaft for applicable rear

axle.
Refer to Group 4, Part 4-2 —

Rear Axle, Section 2 for the proper

installation procedure.

1.
If the front brake backing plate

is to be replaced, position a new front

backing plate and gasket to the wheel

spindle and install the attaching bolts

and nuts.

2.
Install the wheel cylinder and

connect the brake line as outlined in

this section.

3.
Install the brake shoe and ad-

juster assemblies as outlined in this

section. On a rear brake, connect the

parking brake cable to the lever.

4.
Adjust the brake shoes (Section

2),
and install the brake drums and

wheels. Bleed the brake system and

centralize the differential valve as out-

lined in Part 2-1, Section 2.

DISC BRAKE CALIPER

ASSEMBLY

ALL MODELS EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL

Removal

Refer to Figs. 22 and 23.
BLEEDER SCREW FACING THIS DIRECTION^

BLEEDER SCREW

H 1641-A

FIG. 22—Floating Caliper

Installed

1.
Remove the front wheel cover.

Remove the wheel and tire assembly

from the hub and rotor assembly. Be

careful to avoid damage or interfer-

ence with the caliper splash shield or

bleeder screw fitting.

2.
Disconnect the brake line from

the caliper. Cap the hose to prevent

*he brake fluid from leaking from the

master cylinder.

3.
Remove the safety wire and the

two bolts that attach the caliper as-

sembly to the spindle.

4.
Lift the caliper assembly off the

rotor and place it on the bench.

Installation

1.
Position the caliper assembly on

the rotor, and mate the mounting bolt

holes in the caliper with those in the

spindle. It may be necessary to push

the caliper piston into the cylinder

bore to obtain clearance between the

shoe and lining assembly and the

rotor.

2.
Install the caliper to spindle at-

taching bolts and torque them to spe-

cification. The upper bolt must be

tightened first. Install the safety wire

on the bolts and twist the wire ends at

least five turns. Push the wire ends

against the spindle to avoid interfer-

ence with the brake hose and the

steering stop. Check to insure that the

rotor runs squarely and centrally be-

tween the two brake shoes.

3.
Position the brake hose fitting

with a new copper washer on each

side of the fitting on the caliper as-

sembly. Install the bolts and torque to

specification.

4.
Bleed the brake system and cen-

tralize the differential valve as out-

lined in Part 2-1. Check the masterprocarmanuals.com

02-02-39
Brake System

02-02-39

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

BRAKE DRUM REFINISHING

Minor scores on a brake drum can

be removed with sandpaper. A drum

that is excessively scored or shows a

total indicator runout of over 0.007

inch should be turned down. Remove

only enough stock to eliminate the

scores and true up the drum. The refi-

nished diameter must not exceed 0.060

inch oversize.

Check the inside diameter of the

brake drum with a brake drum mi-

crometer (Tool FRE-14^1).

If the drum diameter is less than

0.030 inch oversize after refinishing^

standard lining may be installed. If

the drum diameter is 0.030—0.060

inch oversize after refinishing, oversize

lining must be installed.

After a drum is turned down, wipe

the refinished surface with a cloth

soaked in clean denatured alcohol. If

one drum is turned down, the opposite

drum on the same axle should also be

cut down to the same size.

ROTOR REFINISHING

Rotunda Disc Brake Attachment,

FRE-2249-2, is the only recommended

tool to refinish the disc brake rotors.

The step-by-step resurfacing procedure

provided with the tool must be ad-

hered to.

The finished braking surfaces of the

rotor must be flat and parallel within

0.0007 inch; lateral runout must not

exceed 0.003 inch total indicator read-

ing, and the surface finish of the brak-

ing surfaces are to be 80/15 micro

inches. The minimum limiting dimen-

sions (Figs. 11 and 12, Part 2-1) from

the inboard bearing cup to the out-

board rotor face and from the inboard

bearing cup to the inboard rotor face

must be observed when removing ma-

terial from the rotor braking surfaces.

On all models except Lincoln Con-

tinental, the limiting dimensions are to

be measured with a ball and gage bar

(Rotunda Kit FRE-70160).

BRAKE SHOE RELINING

Brake linings that are worn to with-

in 1/32 inch of the rivet head or are

less than 0.030 inch thick (bonded lin-

ing) or have been contaminated with

brake fluid, grease or oil must be re-

placed. Failure to replace worn linings

will result in a scored drum. When it
is necessary to replace linings, they

must also be replaced on the wheel on

the opposite side of the vehicle.

Inspect brake shoes for distortion,

cracks, or looseness. If this condition

exists,
the shoe must be discarded. Do

not attempt to repair a defective brake

shoe.

1.
Wash the brake shoes thoroughly

in a clean solvent. Remove all burrs

or rough spots from the shoes.

2.
Check the inside diameter of the

brake drum with a brake drum mi-

crometer (tool FRE-1431). If the di-

ameter is less than 0.030 inches over-

size,
standard lining may be installed.

If the diameter is 0.030—0.060 inches

oversize, oversize lining should be in-

stalled.

3.
Position the new lining on the

shoe.
Starting in the center, insert and

secure the rivets, working alternately

towards each end. Replacement lin-

ings are ground and no further grind-

ing is required.

4.
Check the clearance between the

shoe and lining. The lining must seat

tightly against the shoe with not more

than 0.008 inch clearance between any

two rivets.

RETAINER - 2B245
DUAL MASTER CYLINDER

DISASSEMBLY

1.
Clean the outside of the master

cylinder and remove the filler cover

and diaphragm. Pour out any brake

fluid that remains in the cylinder. Dis-

card the old brake fluid.

2.*
Remove the secondary piston

stop bolt from the bottom of the cyl-

inder (Figs. 40 and 41).

3.
Remove the bleed screw, iL re-

quired.

4.
Depress the primary piston and

remove the snap ring from the retain-

ing groove at the rear of the master

cylinder bore (Fig. 42). Remove the

push rod and the primary piston as-

sembly from the master cylinder bore.

Do not remove the screw that retains

the primary return spring retainer, re-

turn spring, primary cup and protec-

tor on the primary piston. This assem-

bly is factory pre-adjusted and should

not be disassembled.

5.
Remove the secondary piston as-

sembly. Do not remove the outlet tube

seats,
outlet check valves and outlet

SECONDARY SYSTEM

BRAKE OUTLET
COVER -2166

GASKET-2167

MASTER CYLINDER -2155

SNAP RING -7821

BOOT

PUSH ROD

PRIMARY PISTON

ASSEMBLY - 2169

tTUBE SEAT-

2B220
* SECONDARY PISTON

ASSEMBLY - 2A502

• NOT USED ON POWER BRAKE EQUIPPED VEHICLES

fNOT SERVICED

•REPLACE AS AN ASSEMBLY ONLY

H 1499-B

FIG. 40— Dual Master Cylinder Disassembled—Except Disc Brakesprocarmanuals.com

03-01-03
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-03

4.
Connect a tachometer, start the

engine and operate it at idle speed

until the reservoir fluid temperature

reaches 165 to 175. This temperature

must be maintained throughout the

test. Valve B may be partially closed

to create a back pressure up to 350

psi to hasten the temperature rise. The

reservoir fluid must be at the proper

level.

5.
With the engine operating at rec-

ommended idle rpm and fluid temper-

ature noted in Step 4, close the manu-

al valve B. The minimum acceptable

pressure reading is 620 psi.

6. If the pressure gauge reading is

below the minimum specification, the

pump is at fault and should be re-

paired with necessary parts.

7.
If the reading is at or above the

minimum specification, the pump flow

is normal. Open manual valve B and

proceed to the Pump Fluid Pressure

Test.

PUMP FLUID

PRESSURE TEST

1.
Keep the lines and tools con-

nected as in the Pump Flow Test.

2.
With manual valves A and B

opened fully, operate the engine at

recommended idle speed (Fig. 2).

Close manual valve A, then manual

valve B. Do not keep both valves

closed for more than 5 seconds as this

would abnormally increase the fluid

temperature and cause undue pump

and/or gear wear.

3.
With the valves fully closed, the

pressure gauge should read 1000 psi

minimum for Ford, Mercury, Meteor

or Thunderbird and 750 psi minimum

for Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon, Monte-

go or Mustang.

4.
If the pressure gauge reading is

below the minimum specification, the

pump is at fault and should be re-

paired with necessary parts.

5.
If the pressure gauge reading is

at or above the minimum specifica-

tions,
the pump is normal and the

power steering gear or power assist

control valve is at fault.

FLUID PRESSURE TEST-

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

The pressure testing gauge set, tool

T56L-33610-D, requires modification

to make it adaptable for installation

in the power steering hydraulic sys-

tem. The parts required and the modi-

fication procedure are as follows:
OWER STEERING

PRESSURE LINE

INVERTED FLARE

CONNECTOR

%* TUBE x VA" PIPE

FLARED FEMALE COUPW

%' TUBE x VA" PIPE

G1544.A

FIG. 3—Modified Pressure Gauge

Assembly

a. Power Steering Pressure Line

(refer to the appropriate Parts Catal-

og).

b.
Inverted Flare Connector (3/8

inch OD Tube x 1/4 inch Pipe

Thread).

c. Inverted Flare Connector (5/16

inch OD Tube x 1/4 inch Pipe

Thread).

d. Flared Tube Female Coupling

(3/8 inch OD Tube x 1/4 inch Pipe

Thread).

The connectors and the coupling are

standard-type fittings and can be pur-

chased locally.

e. To modify tool T56L-33610-D,

remove the hose from the hand shut-

off valve block. Install the 3/8 inch x

1/4 inch inverted flare connector in

the valve block, and assemble the

pressure line to the connector (Fig. 3).

Assemble the 3/8 x 1/4 inch coupling

and the 5/16-inch connector to the

free end of the hose leading to the.

pressure gauge.

1.
To check the pump pressure, dis-

connect the front and rear sections of

the pressure line over the number 6

cylinder. Connect the modified pres-

sure-testing gauge assembly, tool

T56L-3361O-D, between the two sec-

tions.

2.
Make sure the hand-valve at the

gauge is fully opened. Start the engine

and cycle the steering gear from stop

to stop to warm up the fluid. Check

the fluid level in the reservoir and add

fluid, if necessary.

3.
Turn the steering wheel to the

full right and full left turn positions

and observe the gauge readings.

Hold the wheels in this position

only long enough to obtain an accu-

rate reading. Do not exceed 5 seconds.

The gauge should read between

1120 and 1250 psi. If the pressure is
less than 1120 psi, close the valve at

the gauge and note the pump pressure.

If it is low with the valve closed, it in-

dicates that the pump is not operating

properly. If the pressure goes up with

the valve closed, it indicates that the

low pressure in the system must be

due to internal leakage in the power

unit, providing all connections are

tight.

4.
Remove the pressure testing

gauge set, and connect the pressure

line at the steering gear. Fill and bleed

the system.

FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT

CHECKS

Do not attempt to check and adjust

front wheel alignment without first

making a preliminary inspection of

the front-end parts. Refer to Section

3.

Check all the factors of front wheel

alignment except the turning angle

before making any adjustments. The

turning angle should be checked only

after caster, camber, and toe-in have

been adjusted to specifications.

The front wheel alignment specifica-

tions given in Part 3-13, are correct

only when the vehicle is at curb load.

Before checking or adjusting the

alignment factors, the suspension

alignment spacers must be installed to

obtain the curb Height.

EQUIPMENT INSTALLATION

Equipment used for front wheel

alignment inspection must be accu-

rate.
Whenever possible, front wheel

alignment checks should be performed

on stationary wheel aligning equip-

Too/
- T65P3000-A or S

FIG. 4—Typical Front Alignment

Spacer Installation—Cougar,

Fairlane, Falcon,
Montego,
Mustangprocarmanuals.com

03-01-09
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service

03-01-09

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the upper ball

joint.

LOWER BALL JOINT

INSPECTION

Ford,
Mercury, Meteor,

Thunderbird, Lincoln Continental

and Continental Mark III

1.
Raise the vehicle and place

jacks under the lower arms as shown

in Fig. 12. This will unload the lower

ball joints.

2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as des-

cribed in Part 3-12.

3.
Attach a dial indicator to the

lower arm and position the indicator

so that the plunger rests against the

inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to

the lower ball joint.

4.
Grasp the tire at the top and

bottom and slowly move the tire in

and out (Fig. 19). Note the reading

(radial play) on the dial indicator. If

the reading exceeds specifications

(Part 3-13), replace the lower ball

joint.

Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon,

Montego, Mustang

1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame

contact hoist or by floor jacks placed

beneath the underbody until the wheel

falls to the full down position.

2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the

lower edge of the tire and move the

wheel in and out.

3.
As the wheel is being moved in

and out, observe the lower end of the

spindle and the lower arm.

4.
Any movement between the

lower end of the spindle and the lower

arm indicates ball joint wear and loss

of preload. If any such movement is

observed, replace the lower arm.

During the foregoing check, the

upper ball joint will be unloaded and

may move. Disregard all such move-

ment of the upper ball joint. Also, do

not mistake loose wheel bearings for a

worn ball joint.

POWER STEERING GEAR

CLEANING

Disassembly and assembly of the

steering gear and. the sub-assemblies

must be made on a clean workbench.

As in repairing any hydraulically op-

erated unit, cleanliness is of utmost
importance. The bench, tools, and

parts must be kept clean at all times.

Thoroughly clean the exterior of the

unit with a suitable solvent and, when

necessary drain as much of the hy-

draulic fluid as possible. Handle all

parts very carefully to avoid nicks,

burrs,
scratches and dirt, which could

make the parts unfit for use.

Do not clean, wash or soak seals in

cleaning solvent.

INSPECTION

1.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the cover for wear. If worn,

replace the cover.

2.
Inspect the input shaft bearing

for cracked races and the balls for

looseness, wear, pitting, end play or

other damage. Check the fit of the

bearing on the input shaft. Replace

the bearing, if required.

3.
Inspect the valve housing for

wear, scoring or burrs.

4.
Inspect the tube seats in the

pressure and return ports in the valve

body for nicks, etc. If necessary, re-

move and replace.

5.
Check the sector shaft contact

surface in the housing for wear. If

worn, replace the bushing or the hous-

ing.

6. Check all fluid passages for ob-

struction or leakage.

7.
Inspect the steering gear housing

for cracks, stripped threads, and mat-

ing surfaces for burrs. Inspect the pis-

ton bore of the housing for scoring or

wear. If necessary, replace the hous-

ing.

8. Check the input shaft bearing

after installation to be sure that it ro-

tates freely.

9. If the valve spool is not free in

the valve housing, check for burrs at

the outward edges of the working

lands in the housing and remove with

a hard stone. Check the valve spool

for burrs and if burrs are found, stone

the valve in a radial direction only.

Check for freedom of the valve again.

10.
Check the piston rack teeth and

sector shaft teeth for nicks and burrs.

FLUSHING THE POWER

STEERING SYSTEM—ALL EXCEPT

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

Should it be necessary to replace an

inoperative power steering pump, the

need for flushing the steering system

is required when installing the new

pump.
1.
Remove the power steering pump

and remove the pulley as outlined in

Part 3-10.

2.
Install the pulley on a new

pump. Install the pump and connect

only the pressure hose to the pump

(Part 3-10).

3.
Place the fluid return line in a

suitable container and plug the reser-

voir return pipe.

4.
Fill the reservoir with lubricant

(C1AZ-19582-A).

5.
Disconnect the coil wire to pre-

vent the engine from starting and raise

the front wheels off the ground.

6. While approximately two quarts

of steering gear fluid are being poured

into the reservoir, turn the engine over

using the ignition key, at the same

time cycle the steering wheel from

stop to stop.

7.
As soon as all of the lubricant

has been poured in, turn off the igni-

tion key, and attach the coil wire.

8. Remove the plug from the reser-

voir return pipe, and attach the return

hose to the reservoir.

9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if

low, add fluid to the proper level. Do

not overfill.

10.
Lower the vehicle.

11.
Start the engine and cycle the

steering from stop to stop to expel

any trapped air from the system.

POWER STEERING PUMP—ALL

EXCEPT LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL AND

CONTINENTAL MARK III

CLEANING

Wash all parts (except seals) in a

Naptha or Chlorinated-type solvent

and dry with compressed air.

Punch or Rod

RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER

G1607-A

FIG.
20—Cleaning Pump Relief Valveprocarmanuals.com

03-07-02
Ford Design Non-Integral Power Steering System

03-07-02

PUMP AND RESERVOIR

CONTROL VALVE

POWER CYLINDER

FIG. 7—Non-Integral Power Steering System
G 1651-A

IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS
AND
REPAIRS

HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS

Damage
to
suspension and/or steer-

ing linkage components
may
occur
if

care
is not
exercised when positioning

the hoist adapters
of 2
post hoists

prior
to
lifting
the
vehicle.

If
a 2
post hoist
is
used
to
lift
the

vehicle, place
the
adapters under
the

front suspension lower arms.
Do not

allow
the
adapters
to
contact
the

steering linkage.

CONTROL VALVE CENTERING

SPRING ADJUSTMENT

1.
Raise
the
vehicle
and
remove
2

spring
cap
attaching screws
and
lock

washers
and
remove
the
spring
cap.

2.
Tighten
the
adjusting
nut
snug

(90-100 in-lbs); then, loosen
the nut

1/4 turn. Make sure that
the nut ro-

tates
1/4
turn
(90
degrees)
on the

threads
of the
bolt.
Do not
tighten
the

adjusting
nut too
tight.

3.
Position
the
spring
cap to the

valve housing. Lubricate
and
install

the
two
attaching screws
and
washers.

Torque
the
screws
to
72-100 in-lbs.

4.
Lower
the
vehicle.

5.
Start
the
engine
and
check
the

turning effort with
a
spring scale.

With
the
spring scale attached
to the

rim
of the
steering wheel,
the
effort
to
turn
the
wheel
in
both directions

should
not
exceed
12
pounds.

CONTROL VALVE
TO
POWER

STEERING CYLINDER HOSE

1.
Raise
the
vehicle
on a
hoist
and

place
a
drain
pan
under
the
power

cylinder.

2.
Disconnect
the
hose from
the

power cylinder
and
allow
the
fluid
to

drain from
the
hose. Then, disconnect

the hose from
the
control valve.

3.
Connect
the
unmarked
end of

the shorter tube
(9 7/16 in
long)
to

valve port
C
(Fig. 2). Hold
the
tube
so

that
the
bend parallels
the
surface
of

valve shown
in Fig. 2,
tighten
the nut.

PLANE
OF
TUBE BEND
IN

3A717 HOSE
TO BE
PARALLEL

WITH THIS SURFACE ON VALVE.

CLEARANCE BETWEEN

COUPLING TO
BE 1/16-

1/8 INCH
IN
THIS AREA

G 1503-A

FIG. 2—Power Steering Hose

Installation
Connect
the
opposite
end to the
lower

port
in the
cylinder. Hold
the
tube
se-

curely while tightening
the nut to pre-

vent twisting
the
tube. Connect
the

other tube
(9 5/8 in
long)
to
port
A,

making sure that tube
is
parallel with

the other tube.

4.
Remove
the
drain
pan and
lower

the vehicle.

5.
Fill
the
power steering pump res-

ervoir with fluid
to the
proper level

(Part
3-1).

6. Start
the
engine
and
turn
the

steering wheel
to
each
end of its
travel

several times
to
cycle
the
system.

Then, check
for
leaks.

7.
Stop
the
engine
and
again check

the power steering fluid level.
Add

fluid
as
required.

POWER STEERING PUMP

TO CONTROL VALVE HOSE

REMOVAL

1.
Remove
the
fluid from
the
pump

reservoir with
a
suction
gun.

2.
Raise
the
vehicle
on a
hoist.

3.
Remove
the
clamp retaining
the

hose tubes
to the
control valve.

4.
Disconnect
the
fluid return
and

pressure hoses from
the
control valve

and allow
the
fluid
to
drain into
a

pan.procarmanuals.com

03-07-03
Ford Design Non-Integral Power Steering System

03-07-03

5.
Lower the vehicle and disconnect

the fluid return hose from the reser-

voir.

6. Disconnect the fluid pressure

hose from the pump outlet fitting.

7.
Remove 1 bolt attaching the

hoses,
insulator, and the retainer to

the frame side rail and remove the

hoses,
and the insulator and retainer

as an assembly from the vehicle.

8. Remove the pressure and return

hoses from the retainer and insulator.

INSTALLATION

1.
Install the pressure and return
hoses in the insulator and retainer.

Paint stripe on pressure hose must be

aligned with slot in insulator. Paint or

tape band on return hose must be cen-

tered in insulator. Position the assem-

bly to the frame side rail and install

the attaching bolt.

2.
Place a hose clamp on the fluid

return hose and install the hose on the

power steering pump reservoir return

fitting.

3.
Torque the pump outlet fitting to

specification (Part 3-13). Then, con-

nect the pressure hose to the outlet fit-

ting and torque the fitting to specifica-

tion.
4.
Raise the vehicle and connect the

pressure and return lines to the con-

trol valve.

5.
Install the clamp to retain the

hose tubes to the control valve.

6. Lower the vehicle and fill the

power steering pump reservoir with

fluid, C1AZ-19582-A, to the proper

level (Part 3-1).

7.
Start the engine and turn the

steering wheel to each end of its travel

several times to cycle the system.

Then, check for fluid leaks.

8. Stop the engine and again check

the power steering fluid level (Part

3-1). Add fluid as required.

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS

Damage to suspension and/or steer-

ing linkage components may occur if

care is not exercised when positioning

the hoist adapters of 2 post hoists

prior to lifting the vehicle.

If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the

vehicle, place the adapters under the

front suspension lower arms. Do not

allow the adapters to contact the

steering linkage.

STEERING GEAR

Refer to Group 3-6, Section 3 for

detailed instructions.

POWER STEERING PUMP

Refer to Group 3-10, Section 3 for

detailed instructions.

POWER STEERING CONTROL

VALVE

REMOVAL

1.
Disconnect the 4 fluid line fit-

tings at the control valve, and drain

the fluid from the lines. Turn the front

wheels to the left and right several

times to force all the fluid from the

system.

2.
Loosen the clamping nut and

bolt at the right end of the sleeve.

3.
Remove the roll pin from the

steering arm-to-idler arm rod -through

the slot in the sleeve.

4.
Remove the control valve ball

stud nut.

5.
Using the tool shown in Fig. 3,

remove the ball stud from the sector

shaft arm.
VALVE

Too/-3290-C BALL STUD PITMAN ARM

FIG. 3—Removing Control Valve

Ball Stud

6. After turning the front wheels

fully to the left, unthread the control

valve from the center link steering

arm-to-idler arm rod.

INSTALLATION

1.
Thread the valve onto the center

link until about four threads are still

visible on the link.

2.
Position the ball stud in the sec-

tor shaft arm.

3.
Measure the distance between

the center of the grease plug in the

sleeve and the center of the stud at the

inner end of the left spindle connect-

ing rod (Fig. 4). The distance should

be 5 5/8 inches for Montego, Falcon

and Fairlane vehicles. The distance

should be 4 7/8 inches for Mustang

and Cougar models. If the distance is

not correct, disconnect the ball stud

from the sector shaft arm and turn the

valve on the center link to increase or

decrease the distance.

4.
When the correct distance is ob-

tained and the ball stud is positioned

in the sector shaft arm, align the hole

in the steering arm-to-idler arm rod

with the slot near the end of the valve
sleeve. Install the roll pin in the rod

hole to lock the valve in position on

the rod.

5.
Torque the valve sleeve clamp

bolt to specification.

6. Install the nut on the ball stud,

and torque the nut to specification.

Install a new cotter pin.

7.
Connect the fluid lines to the

control valve, and tighten all fittings

securely. Do not over-tighten.

8. Fill the fluid reservoir with the

specified fluid to the cross hatched

area on the dip stick.

9. Start the engine and run it at

idle speed for about two minutes to

warm the fluid in the power steering

system.

10.
Turn the steering wheel all the

way to the left and right several times,

and check the system for fluid leaks.

11.
Increase the engine speed to

about 1000 rpm, and turn the steering

wheel all the way to the left and right

several times.

CONTROL VALVE CONNECTING ROD STUD

LUBRICATION PLUG

G1653-A

FIG. 4—Control Valve Installation

Measurements—All Modelsprocarmanuals.com

03-07-04
Ford Design Non-Integral Power Steering System

03-07-04

12.
Stop the engine, and check the

control valve and hose connections for

fluid leaks. Correct the cause of any

leaks.

13.
Check the fluid level, and refill

the reservoir if necessary.

14.
With the engine running check

the position of the steering wheel

when the front wheels are in the

straight-ahead position.Do not make

any adjustments until toe-in is

checked.

15.
Keep the engine running, and

check toe-in. If either toe-in or steer-

ing wheel position is not correct make

all necessary adjustments (Part 3-1) at

the spindle connecting rod sleeves.

16.
Check the effort to turn the

wheels in both directions. The effort

should be about equal in both direc-

tions.

POWER CYLINDER

REMOVAL

1.
Disconnect the two fluid lines

from the power cylinder and allow

them to drain into a container.
CENTER LINK

POWER CYLINDER

Tool- T64P-3590-F

G 1654-A

FIG. 5—Disconnecting Power

Cylinder Stud

2.
Remove the 'pal nut, attaching

nut, washer and the insulator from the

end of the power cylinder rod.

3.
Remove the cotter pin and cas-

tellated nut that secures the power

cylinder stud to the center link.

4.
Disconnect the power cylinder

stud from the center link as shown in

Fig. 5.

5.
Remove the insulator sleeve and

washer from the end of the power cyl-

inder rod.
6. Inspect the tube fittings and the

seats in the power cylinder for nicks,

burrs or damage. Replace the seats in

the cylinder or the tubes as required.

INSTALLATION

1.
Install the washer, sleeve and the

insulator on the end of the power cyl-

inder rod.

2.
Extend the rod as far as possible.

Insert the rod in the bracket on the

frame and compress the rod as neces-

sary to insert the stud in the -center

link. Secure the stud with a castellat-

ed, nut and a cotter pin.

3.
Secure the power cylinder rod

with an insulator, washer, nut and a

pal nut.

4.
Connect each of the two fluid

lines to its respective port in the cylin-

der.

5.
Fill the reservoir to the correct

level.

6. Start the engine and turn the

steering wheel to each end of its travel

several times to cycle the system. Stop

the engine.

7.
Check the fluid level and fill as

necessary. Install the dipstick and cap.

8. Start the engine and check for

leaks.

MAJOR REPAIR OPERATIONS

CONTROL VALVE

DISASSEMBLY

1.
Wipe all fluid and loose dirt

from the outside of the control valve.

2.
Remove the centering spring cap

from the valve housing (Fig. 6).

When holding the control valve for

disassembly, use a soft-jawed vise, and

clamp the valve only around the sleeve

flange to prevent damage to the hous-

ing, spool, or sleeve.

3.
Remove the nut from the end of

the valve spool bolt. Remove the

washers, spacer, centering spring,

adapter, and bushing from the bolt

and the valve housing.

4.
Remove the two bolts that hold

the valve housing and the sleeve to-

gether, and separate the housing from

the sleeve.

5.
Remove the plug from the valve

sleeve.

6. Push the valve spool out of the

centering spring end of the valve hous-

ing, and remove the seal from the

spool.

7.
Remove the spacer, bushing, and

seal from the sleeve end of the valve

housing.
8. Drive the stop pin out of the

travel regulator stop with a punch and

hammer (Fig. 7). Pull the head of the

valve spool bolt tightly against the

travel regulator stop before driving the

pin out of the stop.

9. Turn the travel regulator stop

counterclockwise in the valve sleeve to

remove the stop from the sleeve.

10.
Remove the valve spool bolt,

spacer, and rubber washer from the

travel regulator stop.

11.
Remove the rubber boot and

clamp from the valve sleeve.

12.
Slide the bumper, spring, and

ball stud seat out of the valve sleeve,

and remove the ball stud socket from

the sleeve.

13.
After removing the return port

hose seat, remove the return port re-

lief valve.

14.
After removing the spring plug

and O-ring, remove the reaction limit-

ing valve (Fig. 8).

Tube Seat Replacement

If a hose seat is worn or damaged it

should be replaced. It can be removed

with an Easy-Out tool, or by using a

bolt of appropriate size as a puller.
1.
Tap the existing hole in the hose

seat, using a starting tap of suitable

size.
Be sure to remove all metal chips

from the hose seat port after tapping.

2.
Place a nut and large flat washer

on a bolt of the same size as the

tapped hole. The washer must be large

enough to cover the hose seat port.

3.
Insert the bolt in the tapped

hole,
and using the nut as a puller, re-

move the hose seat.

4.
Place a new hose seat in the

port, and thread a bolt of suitable size

into the port. Tighten the bolt enough

to bottom the seat in the port.

ASSEMBLY

Before assembling the control valve,

coat all parts except the seals with

Automatic Transmission Fluid. Coat

the seals with lubricant COAZ-

19553-A.

1.
Install the reaction limiting

valve, the spring, and the plug.

2.
Install the return port relief valve

and the hose seat.

3.
Insert one of the ball stud seats

(flat end first) into the ball stud sock-

et, and insert the threaded end of the

ball stud into the socket.procarmanuals.com