light CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982 Repair Guide
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: CHEVROLET, Model Year: 1982, Model line: CAMARO, Model: CHEVROLET CAMARO 1982Pages: 875, PDF Size: 88.64 MB
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FOG LIGHTS
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1. Remove the two screws attaching the lamp assembly to the front impact
bar.
2. Remove the lamp assembly from the impact bar.
3. Disconnect the electrical connector.
4. Remove the two lens attaching screws.
5. Remove the bulb.
6. Installation is the reverse of removal.
Fig. 1: Typical fog light mounting
AIMING
Check with your local authorities before performing this procedure. Most areas
have standards for proper adjustment. We recommend, for safety, that the
adjustment always be checked by a reputable shop.
1. Prepare the vehicle as follows: a. Make sure all com ponents are in place.
b. Make sure the vehicle has a
1/2 tank of fuel or less.
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FUSIBLE LINKS
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses,
the wiring harness incorporates fusible
links to protect the wiring. Links are used rather than a fuse, in wiring circuits
that are not normally fused, such as th e ignition circuit. The fusible links are
color coded red in the charging and load circuits to match the color coding of
the circuits they protect. Each link is four gauges smaller than the cable it
protects, and is marked on the insulation with the gauge size because the
insulation makes it appear heavier than it really is. The engine compartment
wiring harness has several fusible links. The same size wire with a special
Hypalon insulation must be used w hen replacing a fusible link.
For more details, see the information on fusible links at the beginning of this
section.
The links are located in the following areas:
1. A molded splice at the starter solenoid Bat terminal, a 14 gauge red wire.
2. A 16 gauge red fusible link at the j unction block to protect the unfused
wiring of 12 gauge or larger wire. This link stops at the bulkhead
connector.
3. The alternator warning light and fiel d circuitry is protected by a 20 gauge
red wire fusible link used in the batte ry feed-to-voltage regulator number
3 terminal. The link is installed as a molded splice in the circuit at the
junction block.
4. The ammeter circuit is protected by two 20 gauge fusible links installed
as molded splices in the circuit at t he junction block and battery to starter
circuit.
REPLACEMENT 1. Determine the circuit that is damaged.
2. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the harness and discard it.
4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link and butt connectors.
5. Strip the wire about
1/2 in. (13mm) on each end.
6. Connect the fusible link and crimp the butt connectors making sure that the wires are secure.
7. Solder each connection with resin core solder, and wrap the connections
with plastic electrical tape.
8. Reinstall the wir e in the harness.
9. Connect the negative battery terminal and test the system for proper
operation.
CIRCUIT BREAKERS
Various circuit breakers are located under the instrument panel. In order to gain
access to these components, it may be ne cessary to first remove the under
dash padding. Most of the circuit breakers are located in the convenience
center or the fuse panel.
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6. Remove the console cover.
7. Remove the shifter boot.
8. Remove the shifter mounting bolt
s and remove the shifter assembly.
9. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Adjust the linkage as
detailed earlier.
BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal from the battery.
2. At the left-rear of the transmission, the back-up light switch is threaded
into the transmission case. The speed sensor is held in with a separate
bracket. Disconnect the electrical co nnector from the back-up light
switch.
3. Remove the back-up light swit ch from the transmission.
4. To install, reverse the remova l procedures. Coat the threads with
Teflon® tape. Please refer to the to rque chart for specifications. Place
the gear shift lever in the revers e position and check that the back-up
lights work.
EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
This seal controls transmission oil leakage around the driveshaft. Continued
failure of this seal usually indicates a worn output shaft bushing. If so, there will
be signs of the same wear on the driveshaft where it contacts the seal and
bushing. The seal is available and is fairly simple to install, with the proper tool.
1. Raise and safely support the rear of the vehicle to minimize transmission
oil loss when the driveshaft is removed.
2. Unbolt the driveshaft fr om the differential and center support bearing, if
equipped. Wrap tape around the bearing cu ps to keep them in place on
the universal joint and slide the sh aft out of the transmission.
3. Use an small pry tool to carefully pry out the old seal. Be careful not to
insert the tool too far into the hous ing or the bushing will be damaged.
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4. Remove the torque arm from t
he vehicle as outlined under Rear
Suspension in
Suspension & Steering of this repair guide.
5. Mark the driveshaft and the rear ax le pinion flange to indicate their
relationship. Unbolt the rear universal joint straps. Lower the rear of the
driveshaft, being careful to keep the universal joint caps in place.
Withdraw the driveshaft from the transmission and remove it from the
vehicle.
6. Disconnect the speedometer cable a nd the electrical connectors from the
transmission.
7. Remove the exhaust pipe brace.
8. Remove the transmission shifter support attaching bolts from the
transmission.
9. On 4-speed transmissions only, disconnec t the shift linkage at the shifter.
10. Raise the transmission slight ly with a jack, then remove the
crossmember attaching bolts.
11. Remove the transmission mount atta ching bolts, then remove the mount
and crossmember from the vehicle.
12. Remove the transmission attachi ng bolts, then with the aid of an
assistant, move the transmission r earward and downward out of the
vehicle.
To install: 13. Apply a light coating of high temperature grease to the main drive gear
bearing retainer and to the splined por tion of the main drive gear. This
will assure free movement of the clutch and transmission components
during assembly.
14. Install the transmission and secu re with transmission mounting bolts
Torque transmission-to-clutch housing bo lts to 55 ft. lbs. (74 Nm).
15. Install the mount and cr ossmember into the vehicle, then install the
transmission mount attaching bolts. Torque both the mount-to-
crossmember bolts and t he mount-to-transmission bolts to 35 ft. lbs. (47
Nm).
16. Install the crossmember attach ing bolts. Torque the crossmember-to-
body bolts to 35 ft. lbs.
17. On 4-speed transmissions only, connect the shift linkage at the shifter and adjust the shift linkage.
18. Install the transmission shifte r support attaching bolts to the
transmission. Torque shifter bracket-to -extension housing to 25 ft. lbs.
(35 Nm).
19. Install the exhaust pipe brace.
20. Connect the speedometer cable and the electrical connectors to the
transmission.
21. Install the driveshaft into the tr ansmission. Then, align the marks on the
driveshaft and the rear axle pinion fl ange. Bolt the rear universal joint
straps.
22. Install the torque arm into the vehicle.
23. Fill the transmission wi th lubricant. Then install the filler plug and torque
to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
24. Lower the vehicle.
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of the spring bow outward, pushing the pre
ssure plate into closer contact with
the clutch disc. As the disc and plate mo ve closer together, friction between the
two increases and slippage is reduced until, when full spring pressure is applied
(by fully releasing the pedal) the speed of the disc and plate are the same. This
stops all slipping, creating a direct connection between the plate and disc which
results in the transfer of power from t he engine to the transmission. The clutch
disc is now rotating with the pressure plate at engine speed and, because it is
splined to the transmission shaft, the shaft now turns at the same engine speed.
The clutch is operating properly if: 1. It will stall the engine when released with the vehicle held stationary.
2. The shift lever can be moved freel y between 1st and reverse gears when
the vehicle is stationary and the clutch disengaged.
APPLICATION
All 1982-83 vehicles use a mechanical (non-hydraulic) clutch; 1984-92 models
use a hydraulic clutch. With the hydraulic clutch, no adjustment of the clutch
pedal or the linkage is required. On t he mechanical type, the only required
adjustment is to maintain the proper clutch pedal freeplay. The freeplay\
adjustment is very important, for it determines the engaging and disengaging
characteristics of the clutch assembly.
The clutch assembly consists of: a flywheel, a pressure plate, a throwout
bearing and fork, a clutch pedal, and an actuating lever (non-hydraulic) or a
master cylinder/slave cylinder (hydraulic).
The hydraulic system utilizes a remote re servoir which is mounted to the power
brake booster, a master cy linder mounted to the cowl p anel and a slave cylinder
that is mounted to the bell housing. Th e system is operated directly by the
clutch pedal. When adding fl uid to the reservoir, always use a type which meets
DOT 3 specifications.
CAUTION - The clutch driven disc contains asbestos, which has been
determined to be a cancer causing agen t. Never clean clutch surfaces with
compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dus t from any clutch surface! When
cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercia lly available brake cleaning fluid.
FREE-PLAY ADJUSTMENT
MECHANICAL LINKAGE 1. Disconnect the return sp ring at the clutch fork.
2. Hold the pedal against the rubber bumper on the dash brace.
3. Push the clutch fork so that th e throwout bearing lightly contacts the
pressure plate fingers.
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Fig. 1: Clutch assembly
5. Install an alignment tool to support the clutch assembly during removal.
Mark the flywheel and clutch cover for reinstallation, if they do not
already have X marks.
6. Loosen the clutch-to-flywheel attachi ng bolts evenly, one turn at a time,
until spring pressure is released. Remo ve the bolts and clutch assembly.
To install: 7. Clean the pressure plate and flywheel face.
8. Support the clutch di sc and pressure plate with an alignment tool. The
driven disc is installed with the damper springs on the transmission side.
9. Turn the clutch assembly until t he mark on the cover lines up with the
mark on the flywheel, then install t he bolts. Tighten down evenly and
gradually to avoid distortion.
10. Remove the alignment tool.
11. Lubricate the ball socket and fork fi ngers at the release bearing end with
high melting point greas e. Lubricate the recess on the inside of the
throwout bearing and throwout fork groove with a light coat of graphite
grease.
12. Install the clutch fork and dust boot into the housing. Install the throwout
bearing to the throwout fork. Insta ll the flywheel housing. Install the
transmission.
13. Connect the fork push rod and spri ng. Lubricate the spring and pushrod
ends.
14. Adjust the shift linkage and clutch pedal free-play.
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Never release a depressed clutch pedal
with the bleeder screw open or air will
be drawn into the system.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
UNDERSTANDING AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS
The automatic transmission allows eng ine torque and power to be transmitted
to the rear wheels within a narrow range of engine operating speeds. It will
allow the engine to turn fast enough to produce plenty of power and torque at
very low speeds, while keeping it at a s ensible rpm at high vehicle speeds (and
it does this job without driv er assistance). The transmission uses a light fluid as
the medium for the transmission of power. This fluid also works in the operation
of various hydraulic control circui ts and as a lubricant. Because the
transmission fluid performs all of thes e functions, trouble within the unit can
easily travel from one part to another. For this reason, and because of the
complexity and unusual oper ating principles of the transmission, a very sound
understanding of the basic principles of operation will simplify troubleshooting.
TORQUE CONVERTER
The torque converter replaces the convent ional clutch. It has three functions:
1. It allows the engine to idle with t he vehicle at a standstill, even with the
transmission in gear.
2. It allows the transmission to shi ft from range-to-range smoothly, without
requiring that the driver close the throttle during the shift.
3. It multiplies engine torque to an incr easing extent as vehicle speed drops
and throttle opening is increased. This has the effect of making the
transmission more responsive and redu ces the amount of shifting
required.
The torque converter is a metal case which is shaped like a sphere that
has been flattened on opposite sides. It is bolted to the rear end of the
engine's crankshaft. Generally, the ent ire metal case rotates at engine
speed and serves as the engine's flywheel.
The case contains three sets of bl ades. One set is attached directly to
the case. This set forms the torus or pump. Another set is directly
connected to the output shaft, and forms the turbine. The third set is
mounted on a hub which, in turn, is mounted on a stationary shaft
through a one-way clutch. This third set is known as the stator.
A pump, which is driven by the conv erter hub at engine speed, keeps the
torque converter full of transmission fluid at all times. Fluid flows
continuously through the unit to provide cooling.
Under low speed acceleration, the tor que converter functions as follows:
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Fig. 4: TV cable adjustment
3. Rotate the cable actuating leve r to its full travel position.
4. The slider must move (ratchet) forw ard when the lever is rotated to the
full travel position.
5. Release the lever.
NEUTRAL START/BACK-UP LIGHT SWITCH
REPLACEMENT & ADJUSTMENT 1. Remove the console tr im from the console.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the switch.
3. Remove the 2 attaching screws from the switch and remove the switch.
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Fig. 1: Neutral start/back-up light switch
4. To install a new switch: a. Place the switch onto the trans mission control shifter and loosely
install the attaching screws. Po sition the transmission control
shifter assembly in the N notch in the detent plate.
b. Assemble the switch to the tr ansmission control shifter assembly
by inserting the carrier tang into the hole in the shifter lever.
c. Install the attaching screws and tighten.
d. Move the transmission control shifter assembly out of N position.
This will shear the switch internal plastic pin.
5. To install the original switch:
a. Place the switch onto the trans mission control shifter and loosely
install the attaching screws. Po sition the transmission control
shifter assembly in the N notch in the detent plate.
b. Rotate the switch on the shifter assembly to align the service adjustment hole with the carrier tang hole. Insert a
3/32 in.
(2.38mm) diameter g auge pin to a depth of 9/16 in. (15mm) and
tighten attaching screws.
c. Remove the gauge pin.
6. Connect the electrical connector to the switch.
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Fig. 6: Transmission mounts for vehi cles equipped with the 3.1L engine
10. Remove the torque arm-to-transmission bolts.
11. Remove the flywheel cover, t hen mark the relationship between the
torque converter and the flywheel so that these parts may be
reassembled in the same relationship.
12. Remove the torque converter-t o-flywheel attaching bolts.
13. Support the transmission with a ja ck, then remove the transmission
mount bolt.
14. Unbolt and remove the transmission crossmember.
15. Lower the transmission slightly. Disco nnect the throttle valve cable and
oil cooler lines from the transmission.
16. Support the engine using GM specia l tool BT-6424 or its equivalent.
Remove the transmission- to-engine mounting bolts.