engine DODGE NEON 1999 Service Owner's Guide

ENGINE THERMOSTAT
The engine thermostat is located on the front of
the engine (radiator side) in the thermostat housing/
engine outlet connector. The thermostat has an air
bleed (vent) located in the flange and a O-ring for
sealing incorporate on it. There is a relief in the ther-
mostat housing/outlet connector for the O-ring.
WATER PUMP
The water pump has a diecast aluminum body and
housing with a stamped steel impeller. The water
pump bolts directly to the block (Fig. 4). Cylinder
block to water pump sealing is provided by a rubber
O-ring. The water pump is driven by the timing belt.
Refer to Group 9, Engine section for component
removal to access the water pump.
NOTE: The water pump on all models can be
replaced without discharging the air conditioning
system.
COOLANT
The cooling system is designed around the coolant.
The coolant must accept heat from engine block
metal and in the cylinder head area near the exhaust
valves. Then coolant carries this heat to the radiator
where the tube/fin assemblies of these components
can give off the heat to the air.
MopartAntifreeze or the equivalent is recom-
mended for optimum cooling performance and corro-
sion protection when mixed to a freeze point of -37É C
(-35É F).
COOLANT REPLACEMENT
Refer to Group 0, Lubrication and Maintenance for
schedule.
COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE CAP
The cooling system is equipped with a pressure cap
that releases pressure at some point within a range
of 97-124 kPa (14-18 psi) (Fig. 5).
The system will operate at higher than atmo-
spheric pressure, which raises the coolant boiling
point, allowing increased radiator cooling capacity.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER
Oil coolers are internal oil to coolant type, mounted
in the radiator lower tank (Fig. 6). Rubber oil lines
feed the oil cooler and the automatic transmission.
Use only approved transmission oil cooler hose. Since
these are molded to fit space available, molded hoses
are recommended. Tighten Oil Cooler Hose Clamps
to 2 N´m (18 in. lbs.).
RADIATOR
The radiator is a down-flow type (vertical tubes)
with design features that provide greater strength,
as well as sufficient heat transfer capabilities to keep
the engine satisfactorily cooled (Fig. 6).
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
The engine block heater is available as an optional
accessory. The heater, operated by ordinary house
current (110 Volt A.C.) through a power cord and con-
nector behind the radiator grille, provides easier
engine starting and faster warm-up when vehicle is
operated in areas having extremely low tempera-
tures.
Fig. 4 Water Pump
Fig. 5 Cooling System Pressure Cap
PLCOOLING 7 - 3
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)

DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
ENGINE THERMOSTAT
The engine cooling thermostats are wax pellet
driven, reverse poppet choke type. They are designed
to provide the fastest warm up possible by prevent-
ing leakage through them and to guarantee a mini-
mum engine operating temperature of 88 to 93ÉC
(192 to 199ÉF). They also automatically reach wide
open so they do not restrict flow to the radiator as
temperature of the coolant rises in hot weather to
around 104ÉC (220ÉF). Above this temperature the
coolant temperature is controlled by the radiator, fan,
and ambient temperature, not the thermostat.
Its primary purpose is to maintain engine temper-
ature in a range that will provide satisfactory engine
performance and emission levels under all expected
driving conditions. It also provides hot water (cool-
ant) for heater performance. It does this by transfer-
ring heat from engine metal and automatic
transmission oil cooler (if equipped) to coolant, mov-
ing this heated coolant to the heater core and radia-
tor, and then transferring this heat to the ambient
air.
COOLANT PERFORMANCE
Performance is measurable. For heat transfer pure
water excels (Formula = 1 btu per minute for each
degree of temperature rise for each pound of water).
This formula is altered when necessary additives to
control boiling, freezing, and corrosion are added as
follows:
²Pure Water (1 btu) boils at 100ÉC (212ÉF) and
freezes at 0ÉC (32ÉF).
²100 Percent Glycol (.7 btu) can cause a hot
engine and detonation and will raise the freeze point
to 22ÉC (-8ÉF).
²50/50 Glycol and Water (.82 btu) is the recom-
mended combination that provides a freeze point of
-37ÉC(-35ÉF). The radiator, water pump, engine water
jacket, radiator pressure cap, thermostat, tempera-
ture gauge, sending unit and heater are all designed
for 50/50 glycol.
Where required, a 56 percent glycol and 44 percent
water mixture will provide a freeze point of -59ÉC
(-50ÉF).
CAUTION: Richer mixtures cannot be measured
with field equipment which can lead to problems
associated with 100 percent glycol.
Fig. 6 Cooling Modules
7 - 4 COOLINGPL
GENERAL INFORMATION (Continued)

SELECTION AND ADDITIVES
The use of aluminum cylinder heads, intake mani-
folds DOHC, and water pumps requires special corro-
sion protection. MopartAntifreeze or the equivalent
is recommended for best engine cooling without cor-
rosion. When mixed only to a freeze point of -37ÉC
(-35ÉF) to -59ÉC (-50ÉF). If it looses color or becomes
contaminated, drain, flush, and replace with fresh
properly mixed solution.
COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE CAP
The cooling system is equipped with a pressure cap
that releases built up pressure, maintaining a range
of 97-124 kPa (14-18 psi).
The cooling system will operate at higher than
atmospheric pressure. The higher pressure raises the
coolant boiling point thus, allowing increased radia-
tor cooling capacity.
There is a vent valve in the center of the cap that
allows a small coolant flow from the coolant reserve
system (CRS) tank. This valve is spring loaded in the
closed position. However it must be free to open dur-
ing system cool-down.If the valve is stuck shut,
the radiator hoses will collapse on cool-down.
Clean the vent valve (Fig. 7) to ensure proper
sealing function.
There is a gasket in the cap that seals to the top of
the filler neck so that vacuum is maintained to draw
coolant back into the system from the coolant reserve
system (CRS) tank.
RADIATOR HOSES AND CLAMPS
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN
RECENTLY, WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE WORKING
ON VEHICLE. RELIEVE PRESSURE BY PLACING A
SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP AND WITHOUT
PUSHING DOWN ROTATE IT COUNTERCLOCKWISE
TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS TO ESCAPE
THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE AND WHEN THE
SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING OUT COOLANT AND
STEAM AND THE PRESSURE DROPS CONTINUE
SERVICE.
WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS
ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES.
WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY
TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF
CLAM. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN
SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS.
CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the
tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement
is necessary, use only a original equipment clamp
with matching number or letter.The hose clamps are removed by using Special Tool
6094 or equivalent constant tension clamp pliers
(Fig. 8) to compress hose clamp.
A hardened, cracked, swollen or restricted hose
should be replaced. Do not damage radiator inlet and
outlet when loosening hoses.
Radiator hoses should be routed without any kinks
and indexed as designed. The use of molded hoses is
recommended.
Spring type hose clamps are used in all applica-
tions. If replacement is necessary replace with the
original Mopartequipment spring type clamp.
ENGINE BLOCK HEATER
The heater is mounted in a core hole (in place of a
core hole plug) in the engine block, with the heating
element immersed in coolant.The power cord
must be secured in its retainer clips, and not
positioned so it could contact linkages or
exhaust manifolds and become damaged.
If unit does not operate, trouble can be in either
the power cord or the heater element. Test power
cord for continuity with a 110-volt voltmeter or 110-
volt test light; test heater element continuity with an
ohmmeter or 12-volt test light.
Fig. 7 Cooling System Pressure Cap
PLCOOLING 7 - 5
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

WATER PUMP
The water pump body is made of aluminum with a
steel impeller. The water pump is bolted to the frontof the block, and driven by the timing belt. The water
pump is the heart of the cooling system, pumping the
coolant through the engine block, cylinder head,
heater core, and radiator.
NOTE: The water pump on all models can be
replaced without discharging the air conditioning
system.
Fig. 8 Hose Clamp Tool
7 - 6 COOLINGPL
DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
LOW1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) been set indicating a stuck
open engine thermostat?1. Refer to On Board Diagnostic in
Group 25. Replace thermostat if
necessary. If a (DTC) has not been
set, the problem may be with the
temperature gauge.
2. Is the temperature gauge (if
equipped) connected to the
temperature gauge coolant sensor
on the engine?2. Check the connector at the
engine coolant sensor. Refer to
Group 8E. Repair as necessary.
3. Is the temperature gauge (if
equipped) operating OK?3. Check Gauge operation. Refer to
Group 8E. Repair as necessary.
4. Coolant level low during cold
ambient temperature, accompanied
by poor heater performance.4. Check coolant level in the coolant
overflow/reserve tank and the
radiator. Inspect the system for
leaks. Repair as necessary. Refer to
WARNINGS outlined in this section
before removing pressure cap.
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST FROM SYSTEM.1. Trailer being towed, a steep hill
being climbed, vehicle being
operated in slow moving traffic, or
engine idling during high ambient
(outside) temperatures with air
conditioning on. High altitudes
Could aggravate these conditions.1. This may be a temporary
condition and repair is not
necessary. Turn off the air
conditioning and drive the vehicle
without any of the previous
conditions. Observe the temperature
gauge the gauge should return to
the normal range. If the gauge does
not return to the normal range,
determine the cause of the
overheating and repair. Refer to
POSSIBLE CAUSES in this section.
2. Is temperature gauge (if
equipped) reading correctly?2. Check gauge. Refer to Group 8E.
Repair as necessary.
3. Is temperature warning lamp (if
equipped) illuminating
unnecessarily?3. Check warning lamp operation.
Refer to Group 8E. Repair as
necessary.
4. Coolant low in overflow/reserve
tank and radiator?4. Check for coolant leaks and
repair as necessary. Refer to
checking cooling system for leaks in
this group.
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly.
If cap is loose, boiling point of
coolant will be lowered. Also refer
to the following step 6.5. Tighten cap.
6. Poor seals at radiator cap. 6. (a) Check condition of cap and
cap seals. Refer to Radiator cap
Inspection. Replace cap if
necessary.
6. (b) Check condition of filler neck.
If neck is bent or damaged, replace
neck.
PLCOOLING 7 - 7

COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS
HIGH OR ENGINE COOLANT
WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES.
COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE
LOST FROM SYSTEM.7. Coolant level low in radiator but
not in coolant overflow/reserve
tank. This means the radiator is not
drawing coolant from the coolant
overflow/reserve tank as the engine
cools.
As the engine cools, a vacuum is
formed inside the cooling system. If
the radiator cap seals are defective,
or the cooling system has a leak, a
vacuum can not be formed.7. (a) Check condition of radiator
cap and cap seals. Replace cap if
necessary.
(b) Check condition of filler neck. If
neck is damaged, replace filler
neck.
(c) Check condition of hoses from
filler neck to coolant tank. It should
be tight at both ends without any
kinks or tears. Replace hose if
necessary.
(d) Check coolant overflow/reserve
tank and tank hoses for blockage.
Repair as necessary.
8. Freeze point of coolant not
correct. Mixture may be to rich.8. Check coolant. Refer to coolant
section in this group. Adjust glycol
to water ratio as required.
9. Coolant not flowing through
system.9. Check for coolant flow at filler
neck with some coolant removed,
engine warm and thermostat open.
Coolant should be observed flowing
through filler neck. If flow is not
observed determine reason for lack
of flow and repair as necessary.
10. Radiator or A/C condenser fins
are dirty or clogged.10. Clean insects or debris.
11. Radiator core is plugged or
corroded.11. Replace or re-core radiator.
12. Fuel or ignition system
problems.12. Refer to Fuel and Ignition
System group for diagnosis. Also
refer to the appropriate Powertrain
Diagnosis Procedures manual for
operation of the DRB scan tool.
13. Dragging brakes. 13. Inspect brake system and repair
as necessary. Refer to Group 5,
Brakes for diagnosis.
14. Bug screen is being used
causing reduced air flow.14. Remove bug screen.
15. Thermostat partially or
completely shut. This is more
prevalent on high mileage vehicles.15. Check thermostat operation and
replace as necessary. Refer to
thermostats in this group.
16. Electric cooling fan not
operating properly.16. Check electric fan operation and
repair as necessary.
17. Cylinder head gasket leaking. 17. Check cylinder head gasket for
leaks. Refer to testing cooling
system for leaks. For repairs, refer
to group 9, Engines.
18. Heater core leaking. 18. Check heater core for leaks.
Refer to Group 24, Heating and Air
Conditioning. Repair as necessary.
7 - 8 COOLINGPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CONT.
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
INADEQUATE AIR CONDITIONER
PERFORMANCE (COOLING
SYSTEM SUSPECTED)1. Radiator and/or air conditioning
condenser is restricted, obstructed
or dirty.1. Remove restriction and/or clean
as necessary.
2. Electric radiator fan not operating
when a/c is on.2. Refer to appropriate Powertrain
Diagnostic Procedures manual for
operation of the DRB scan tool.
repair as necessary.
3. Engine is overheating ( heat may
be transferred from radiator to A/C
condenser. High underhood
temperature due to engine
overheating may also transfer heat
to A/C components).3. Correct overheating condition.
Refer to Group 7, Cooling.
INADEQUATE HEATER
PERFORMANCE.1. Has a diagnostic trouble code
(DTC) been set?1. Refer to On-Board Diagnostic in
Group 25, and replace thermostat if
necessary.
2. Coolant level low. 2. Refer to testing cooling system
for leaks in this section. Repair as
necessary.
3. Obstructions in heater hose
fittings at engine.3. Remove heater hoses at both
ends and check for obstructions.
Repair as necessary.
4. Heater hose kinked. 4. Locate kinked area and repair as
necessary.
5. Water pump is not pumping
coolant to heater core. When the
engine is fully warmed up, both
heater hoses should be hot to the
touch. The accessory drive belt
may be slipping causing poor water
pump operation.5. Refer to water pump in this
group. Repair as necessary. If
slipping belt is detected, refer to
accessory drive belts in this group.
Repair as necessary.
HEAT ODOR 6. Various heat shields are used at
certain drive line components. One
or more of these shields may be
missing.6. Locate missing shields and
replace or repair as necessary.
PLCOOLING 7 - 11
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

ENGINE THERMOSTAT TESTING
The thermostat is operated by a wax filled con-
tainer (pellet) which is sealed. When heated coolant
reaches a predetermined temperature the wax pellet
expands enough to overcome the closing spring and
water pump pressure, which forces the valve to open.
Coolant leakage into the pellet will cause a thermo-
stat to fail open. Do not attempt to free up a thermo-
stat with a screwdriver.The thermostat that opens too soon type failure
mode is included in the on-board diagnosis. The
check engine light will not be lit by an open too soon
condition. If it has failed open, a diagnostic trouble
code (DTC) will be set. Do not change a thermostat
for lack of heater performance or temperature gauge
position, unless a DTC is present. See Diagnosis for
other probable causes. Thermostat failing shut is the
normal long term mode of failure, and normally, only
on high mileage vehicles. The temperature gauge will
indicate this. Refer to Diagnosis in this section.
ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT DIAGNOSIS
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
INSUFFICIENT ACCESSORY
OUTPUT DUE TO BELT SLIPPAGE1. Belt too loose. 1. Adjust belt tension.
2. Belt excessively glazed or worn. 2. Replace and tighten as specified.
BELT SQUEAL WHEN
ACCELERATING ENGINE1. Belts too loose. 1. Adjust belt tension.
2. Belts glazed. 2. Replace belts.
BELT CHIRP AT IDLE 1. Belts too loose. 1. Adjust belt tension.
2. Foreign material imbedded in
belt.2. Replace belt.
3. Non-uniform belt. 3. Replace belt.
4. Misaligned pulley(s). 4. Align accessories.
5. Non-uniform groove or eccentric
pulley.5. Replace pulley(s).
BELT ROLLED OVER IN GROOVE
OR BELT JUMPS OFF1. Broken cord in belt. 1. Replace belt.
2. Belt too loose, or too tight. 2. Adjust belt tension.
3. Misaligned pulleys. 3. Align accessories.
4. Non-uniform grooves or eccentric
pulley.4. Replace pulley(s).
PLCOOLING 7 - 13
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

WATER PUMP DIAGNOSIS
A quick flow test to tell whether or not the pump is
working is to see if the heater warms properly. A
defective pump will not be able to circulate heated
coolant through the long heater hose.
Another flow test to help determine pump opera-
tion.
WARNING: DO NOT remove radiator cap if the cool-
ing system is hot or under pressure.
(1) Remove radiator cap.
(2) Remove a small amount of coolant from the
system, start the engine and warm up until thermo-
stat opens. With the thermostat open and coolant
level low you will see if the water pump is pumping
coolant through the system.
COOLING SYSTEM FLOW CHECK
To determine whether coolant is flowing through
the cooling system, use the following procedures:
(1) If engine is cold, idle engine until normal oper-
ating temperature is reached. Then feel the upper
radiator hose. If it is hot, coolant is circulating.
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE COOLING SYS-
TEM PRESSURE CAP WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND
UNDER PRESSURE BECAUSE SERIOUS BURNS
FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR.
(2) Remove pressure cap when engine is cold,
remove small amount of coolant Idle engine until
thermostat opens, you should observe coolant flow
while looking down the filler neck. Once flow is
detected install the pressure cap.
RADIATOR FAN CONTROL
Fan control is accomplished two ways. The fan
always runs when the air conditioning compressor
clutch is engaged. In addition to this control, the fan
is turned on by the temperature of the coolant which
is sensed by the coolant temperature sensor which
sends the message to the Powertrain Control Module
(PCM). The (PCM) turns on the fan through the
Solid State Fan Relay. The Solid State Fan Relay is
located on the left front inner frame just behind the
radiator. See Wiring Diagrams Manual for circuity
and diagnostics provided.
Switching through the (PCM) provides fan control
for the following conditions.
²The fan will not run during cranking until the
engine starts no matter what the coolant tempera-
ture is.
²Fan will run when the air conditioning clutch is
engaged and low pressure cutout switch is closed.
²Fan will run at vehicle speeds above about 40
mph only if coolant temperature reaches 110ÉC(230ÉF). It will turn off when the temperature drops
to 104ÉC (220ÉF). At speeds below 40 mph the fan
switches on at 102ÉC (215ÉF) and off at 93ÉC (200ÉF).
Refer to Radiator Fan Control Module Group 14,
Fuel Injection for more information.
ELECTRIC FAN MOTOR TEST
Refer to Powertrain Diagnostic Manual for procedure.
TESTING COOLING SYSTEM FOR LEAKS
The system should be full. With the engine not
running, wipe the filler neck sealing seat clean.
Attach a radiator pressure tester to the filler neck,
as shown in (Fig. 9) and apply 104 kPa (15 psi) pres-
sure. If the pressure drops more than 2 psi in 2 min-
utes, inspect the system for external leaks.
Move all hoses at the radiator and heater while
system is pressurize at 15 psi, since some leaks occur
due to engine rock while driving.
If there are no external leaks after the gauge dial
shows a drop in pressure, detach the tester. Start the
engine, and run the engine to normal operating tem-
perature in order to open the thermostat and allow
the coolant to expand. Reattach the tester. If the nee-
dle on the dial fluctuates it indicates a combustion
leak, usually a head gasket leak.
WARNING: WITH THE PRESSURE TESTER IN
PLACE PRESSURE BUILDS UP QUICKLY. ANY
EXCESSIVE PRESSURE BUILD-UP DUE TO CON-
TINUOUS ENGINE OPERATION MUST BE
RELEASED TO A SAFE PRESSURE POINT. NEVER
PERMIT PRESSURE TO EXCEED 138 kPa (20 psi).
If the needle on the dial does not fluctuate, race
the engine a few times. If an abnormal amount of
coolant or steam is emitted from the tail pipe, it may
indicate a faulty head gasket, cracked engine block,
or cracked cylinder head.
Fig. 9 Pressure Testing Cooling SystemÐTypical
7 - 14 COOLINGPL
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)

There may be internal leaks, which can be deter-
mined by removing the oil dipstick. If water globules
appear intermixed with the oil, it indicates an inter-
nal leak in the engine. If there is an internal leak,
the engine must be disassembled for repair.
PRESSURE CAP TO FILLER NECK SEAL
PRESSURE RELIEF CHECK
The pressure cap upper gasket (seal) pressure
relief can be checked by removing the overflow hose
at the radiator filler neck nipple (Fig. 10). Attach the
radiator pressure tester to thefiller neck nipple,
and pump air into the system. The pressure cap
upper gasket should relieve pressure at 69-124 kPa
(10-18 psi), and hold pressure at 55 kPa (8 psi) min-
imum.
WARNING: THE WARNING WORDS DO NOT OPEN
HOT ON THE PRESSURE CAP IS A SAFETY PRE-
CAUTION. WHEN HOT, THE COOLING SYSTEM
BUILDS UP PRESSURE. TO PREVENT SCALDING
OR OTHER INJURY, THE PRESSURE CAP SHOULD
NOT BE REMOVED WHILE THE SYSTEM IS HOT
AND/OR UNDER PRESSURE.
There is no need to remove the pressure cap at any
timeexceptfor the following purposes:
²Check and adjust coolant freeze point²Refill system with new coolant
²Conducting service procedures
²Checking for leaks
WARNING: IF VEHICLE HAS BEEN RUN
RECENTLY, WAIT 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING
CAP. PLACE A SHOP TOWEL OVER THE CAP, AND
WITHOUT PUSHING DOWN, ROTATE IT COUNTER-
CLOCKWISE TO THE FIRST STOP. ALLOW FLUIDS
TO ESCAPE THROUGH THE OVERFLOW TUBE.
WHEN THE SYSTEM STOPS PUSHING COOLANT
AND STEAM INTO THE CRS TANK AND PRESSURE
DROPS, PUSH DOWN ON THE CAP AND REMOVE
IT COMPLETELY. SQUEEZING THE RADIATOR
INLET HOSE WITH A SHOP TOWEL (TO CHECK
PRESSURE) BEFORE AND AFTER TURNING TO
THE FIRST STOP IS RECOMMENDED.
PRESSURE TESTING COOLING SYSTEM
PRESSURE CAP
Dip the pressure cap in water; clean off any depos-
its on the vent valve or its seat, and apply the cap to
end of radiator pressure tester (Fig. 11). Working the
plunger, increase the pressure to 104 kPa (15 psi) on
the gauge. If the pressure cap fails to hold pressure
of at least 97 kPa (14 psi), replace the cap.
CAUTION: The radiator pressure tester is very sen-
sitive to small air leaks that will not cause cooling
system problems. A pressure cap that does not
have a history of coolant loss should not be
replaced just because it leaks slowly when tested
with this tool. Add water to the tool. Turn the tool
upside down, and recheck the pressure cap to con-
firm that the cap is faulty.
If the pressure cap tests properly while posi-
tioned the on radiator pressure tester, but will not
hold pressure or vacuum when positioned on the
filler neck, inspect the filler neck and cap top gas-
ket for irregularities that may prevent the cap from
sealing properly.
LOW COOLANT LEVEL AERATION
²Will cause corrosion in the system.
²High reading shown on the temperature gauge.
²Air in the coolant will also cause loss of flow
through the heater.
²Exhaust gas leaks into the coolant can also
cause the above problems.
DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gath-
ering under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it
will be pushed past the pressure cap into the CRS
tank by thermal expansion of the coolant. It thenFig. 10 Cooling System Pressure Cap
PLCOOLING 7 - 15
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING (Continued)