FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Owner's Guide

Refitting
5Thoroughly clean the rocker cover, and
scrape away any traces of old gasket
remaining on the cover and cylinder head
mating surfaces.
6 Fit a new gasket to the rocker cover, then
refit the rocker cover (see illustrations).
Tighten the cover retaining bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting, in a diagonal
sequence.
7 Reconnect the HT leads, and refit the air
cleaner as described in Chapter 4.
5 Valve clearances -
checking and adjustment
2
Note: The valve clearances must be checked
and adjusted only when the engine is cold.
1 The importance of having the valve
clearances correctly adjusted cannot be
overstressed, as they vitally affect the
performance of the engine. If the clearances
are too big, the engine will be noisy
(characteristic rattling or tapping noises) and
engine efficiency will be reduced, as the
valves open too late and close too early. A
more serious problem arises if the clearances
are too small, however. If this is the case, the
valves may not close fully when the engine is
hot, resulting in serious damage to the engine
(eg. burnt valve seats and/or cylinder head
warping/cracking). The clearances are
checked and adjusted as follows.
2 Set the engine to TDC for No 1 piston, as
described in Section 3.
3 Remove the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
4 Starting from the thermostat end of the
cylinder head, the valves are numbered as
follows: Valve No Cylinder No
1 - Exhaust 1
2 - Inlet 1
3 - Exhaust 2
4 - Inlet 2
5 - Inlet 3
6 - Exhaust 3
7 - Inlet 4
8 - Exhaust 4 5
Adjust the valve clearances following the
sequence given in the following table. Turn
the crankshaft pulley 180º (half a turn) after
adjusting each pair of valve clearances.
Valves “rocking” Valves to adjust
7 and 8 1 (exhaust), 2 (inlet)
5 and 6 3 (exhaust), 4 (inlet)
1 and 2 8 (exhaust), 7 (inlet)
3 and 4 6 (exhaust), 5 (inlet)
6 The clearances for the inlet and exhaust
valves differ (refer to the Specifications). Use a
feeler gauge of the appropriate thickness to
check each clearance between the end of the
valve stem and the rocker arm (see
illustration) . The gauge should be a firm
sliding fit between the valve and rocker arm.
Where adjustment is necessary, turn the
adjuster bolt as required with a ring spanner
to set the clearance to that specified. The
adjuster bolts are of stiff-thread type, and
require no locking nut.
7 On completion, refit the rocker cover as
described in Section 4.
6 Cylinder head rocker gear -
removal, inspection and
refitting
2
Removal
1 Remove the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
2 Unscrew the four retaining bolts, and lift the
rocker gear assembly from the cylinder head.
As the assembly is withdrawn, ensure that the
pushrods remain seated in their positions in
the engine.
Inspection
3 To dismantle the rocker shaft assembly,
extract the split pin from one end of the shaft,
then withdraw the spring and plain washers
from the shaft.
4 Slide off the rocker arms, the support
pedestals and coil springs from the shaft, but take care to keep them in their original order
of fitting
(see illustration) .
5 Clean the respective components, and
inspect them for signs of excessive wear or
damage. Check that the oil lubrication holes in
the shaft are clear.
6 Check the rocker shaft and arm pads which
bear on the valve stem end faces for wear and
scoring, and check each rocker arm on the
shaft for excessive wear. Renew any
components as necessary.
Refitting
7 Apply clean engine oil to the rocker shaft
prior to reassembling.
2A•4 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
6.4 Rocker shaft partially dismantled for inspection
5.6 Adjusting the valve clearances4.6b Refitting the rocker cover4.6a Engage tags of rocker cover gasketinto the cut-outs in the cover
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Turning the engine will be
easier if the spark plugs are
removed first - see Chapter 1.
If the pushrods are to be removed,
keep them in the correct order of fitting
by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from
the thermostat end of the cylinder
head, or locate them in a card.
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8Reassemble in the reverse order of
dismantling. Make sure that the “flat” on the
rear end of the rocker shaft is to the same side
as the rocker arm adjusting screws (closest to
the thermostat end of the cylinder head when
fitted) (see illustration) . This is essential for
the correct lubrication of the cylinder head
components.
9 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is
fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws
engage with their corresponding pushrods.
10 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts,
hand-tighten them and then tighten them to
the specified torque wrench setting. As they
are tightened, some of the rocker arms will
apply pressure to the ends of the valve stems,
and some of the rocker pedestals will not
initially be in contact with the cylinder head -
these should pull down as the bolts are
tightened to their specified torque. If for any
reason they do not, avoid the temptation to
overtighten in order to pull them into position;
loosen off the bolts, and check the cause of
the problem. It may be that the rocker adjuster
screws require loosening off in order to allow
the assembly to be tightened down as
required.
11 Adjust the valve clearances as described
in Section 5.
7 Cylinder head -
removal and refitting
3
Removal
Note: The following procedure describes
removal and refitting of the cylinder head
complete with inlet and exhaust manifolds. If
wished, the manifolds may be removed first,
as described in the relevant Part of Chapter 4,
and the cylinder head then removed on its
own.
1 On fuel injection engines, depressurise the
fuel system as described in Chapter 4, Part B.
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 4A or 4B as applicable
and remove the air cleaner.
4 Refer to Section 4 and remove the rocker
cover. 5
Refer to Chapter 1 and drain the cooling
system.
6 Disconnect the hoses from the thermostat
housing.
7 Disconnect the heater (coolant) hoses from
the inlet manifold and CFi unit, where
applicable.
8 Disconnect the accelerator and choke
cables as applicable (see Chapter 4A or 4B).
9 Disconnect the vacuum and breather hoses
from the carburettor/CFi unit, and inlet
manifold as applicable.
10 Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines
at the carburettor, or at the quick-release
couplings, then unclip the fuel hoses from the
inlet manifold; use rag to soak up any spilt
fuel.
11 Disconnect the HT leads from the spark
plugs and the support bracket. Unscrew and
remove the spark plugs.
12 Disconnect the electrical leads from the
temperature gauge sender, radiator cooling
fan, the engine coolant temperature sender,
and the anti-run-on (anti-dieselling) valve at
the carburettor.
13 Disconnect the remaining wiring multi-
plugs from the engine sensors at the inlet
manifold and from the oxygen sensor (where
fitted) in the exhaust manifold or downpipe.
14 On vehicles equipped with a pulse-air
system, remove the pulse-air piping and filter
assembly as described in Chapter 4E.
15 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
16 Undo the retaining nuts and bolts, and
disconnect the exhaust downpipe from the
manifold. Remove the flange gasket. (Note
that both the gasket and the joint self-locking
nuts must be renewed.) To prevent the
exhaust system from being strained, tie the
downpipe up using strong wire or a length of
cord to support it. Lower the vehicle.
17 Undo the four retaining bolts and lift clear
the rocker gear assembly from the cylinder
head.
18 Lift out the pushrods. Keep them in order
of fitting by labelling them 1 to 8, starting from
the thermostat end of the cylinder head.
Alternatively, push them through a piece of
card in their fitted sequence.
19 Progressively unscrew and loosen off the
cylinder head retaining bolts in the reverse
sequence to that shown for tightening (see
illustration 7.27a). When they are all loosened off, remove the bolts, then lift the
cylinder head clear and remove the gasket. If
it is stuck, tap it upwards using a hammer and
block of wood. Do not try to turn it, as it is
located by dowels; make no attempt
whatsoever to prise it free using a screwdriver
inserted between the block and head faces.
The gasket must always be renewed; it should
be noted that the cylinder head retaining bolts
may be re-used, but only once. They should
be marked accordingly with a punch or paint
mark. If there is any doubt as to how many
times the bolts have been used, they must be
renewed.
20
To dismantle/overhaul the cylinder head,
refer to Part D of this Chapter. It is normal for
the cylinder head to be decarbonised and the
valves to be reground whenever the head is
removed.
Preparation for refitting
21 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before
refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
22 Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
23 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
24 Clean the threads of the cylinder head
bolts or fit new ones (as applicable) and clean
out the bolt holes in the block. Screwing a bolt
into an oil-filled hole can (in extreme cases)
cause the block to fracture, due to the
hydraulic pressure.
Refitting
25 Check that the new cylinder head gasket
is the same type as the original, and that the
“TOP” (or “OBEN”) marking is facing
upwards. Locate the new cylinder head
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•5
6.8 Flat on the rocker shaft (arrowed) to
same side as rocker arm adjusting screws
2A
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Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
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gasket onto the top face of the cylinder block
and over the dowels. Ensure that it is correctly
aligned with the coolant passages and
oilways (see illustration) .
26 Lower the cylinder head carefully into
position, then insert the retaining bolts and
hand-tighten them.
27 Tightening of the cylinder head bolts must
done in three stages, and in the correct
sequence (see illustration) . First tighten all of
the bolts in the sequence shown to the
Stage 1 torque setting (see illustration).
When all of the bolts are tightened to the
Stage 1 setting, further tighten each bolt (in
sequence) through the Stage 2 specified
angle of rotation. When the second stage
tightening is completed on all of the bolts,
further tighten them to the Stage 3 angle
setting (in sequence) to complete. Where
possible, use an angular torque setting gauge
attachment tool for accurate tightening of
stages two and three (see illustration).
28 Lubricate the pushrods with clean engine
oil, and then insert them into their original
locations in the engine.
29 Refit the rocker shaft assembly. As it is
fitted, ensure that the rocker adjuster screws
engage with their corresponding pushrods.
30 Refit the rocker shaft retaining bolts,
hand-tighten them and then tighten them
to the specified torque wrench setting. As
they are tightened, some of the rocker arms
will apply pressure to the ends of the valve
stems, and some of the rocker pedestals will
not initially be in contact with the cylinder head - these should pull down as the bolts are
tightened. If for any reason they do not, avoid
the temptation to overtighten in order to pull
them into position; loosen off the bolts, and
check the cause of the problem. It may be
that the rocker adjuster screws require
loosening off in order to allow the assembly to
be tightened down as required.
31
Adjust the valve clearances as described
in Section 5.
32 Refit the rocker cover as described in
Section 4.
33 The remainder of the refitting procedure is
a reversal of the removal process. Tighten all
fastenings to their specified torque setting
(where given). Refer to the appropriate Parts
of Chapter 4 for details on reconnecting the
fuel and exhaust system components. Ensure
that all coolant, fuel, vacuum and electrical
connections are securely made.
34 On completion, refill the cooling system
and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and
“Weekly Checks” ). When the engine is
restarted, check for any sign of fuel, oil and/or
coolant leakages from the various cylinder
head joints.
8 Crankshaft pulley -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the right-hand front roadwheel.
3 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt as described
in Chapter 1.
4 Loosen off the crankshaft pulley retaining
bolt. To prevent the crankshaft from turning,
unbolt and remove the clutch housing cover
plate. Lock the starter ring gear on the
flywheel using a large screwdriver or similar
tool inserted through the cover plate aperture.
Alternatively, remove the starter motor
(Chapter 5A) and lock the ring gear through
the starter motor aperture. 5
Fully unscrew the crankshaft pulley bolt,
and withdraw the pulley from the front end of
the crankshaft. If it does not pull off by hand,
lever it free using a pair of suitable levers
positioned diagonally opposite each other
behind the pulley.
6 If required, the crankshaft front oil seal can
be renewed at this stage, as described in
Section 14.
Refitting
7 Refitting is a reversal of the removal
procedure ensuring that the pulley retaining
bolt is tightened to the specified torque
setting.
8 Refit the auxiliary drivebelt as described in
Chapter 1, and lower the vehicle to complete.
9 Timing chain cover -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Remove the sump as described in Sec-
tion 11.
2 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described
in the previous Section.
3 A combined timing cover and water pump
gasket is fitted during production; if this is still
in position, it will be necessary to drain the
cooling system and remove the water pump
as described in Chapter 3. If the water pump
and/or the timing cover have been removed at
any time, the single gasket used originally will
have been replaced by an individual gasket
for each component, in which case the water
pump can remain in position.
4 Unscrew the retaining bolts, and carefully
prise free the timing chain cover.
5 Clean the mating faces of the timing chain
cover, and the engine.
6 If necessary, renew the crankshaft front oil
seal in the timing cover prior to refitting the
cover (see Section 14).
Refitting
7 Lightly lubricate the front end of the
crankshaft and the radial lip of the timing
chain cover oil seal (already installed in the
2A•6 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
7.27c Cylinder head bolt tightening
(Stages 2 and 3) using an angle gauge
7.27b Tightening the cylinder head bolts (Stage 1)7.27a Cylinder head bolt tighteningsequence7.25 Cylinder head gasket top-facemarking (“OBEN”)
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cover). Using a new gasket, fit the timing
chain cover, centring it with the aid of the
crankshaft pulley - lubricate the seal contact
surfaces beforehand. Refit and tighten the
retaining bolts but, where applicable, leave
out the timing cover bolt which also secures
the water pump at this stage.
8Where applicable, refit the water pump as
described in Chapter 3.
9 Refit the crankshaft pulley as described in
the previous Section.
10 Refit the sump as described in Section 11.
10Timing chain, sprockets and
tensioner - removal,
inspection and refitting
3
Removal
1 Remove the timing chain cover as
described in the previous Section.
2 Remove the oil slinger from the front face of
the crankshaft, noting its orientation (see
illustration) .
3 Retract the chain tensioner cam back
against its spring pressure, then slide the
chain tensioner arm from its pivot pin on the
front main bearing cap (see illustration).
4 Unbolt and remove the chain tensioner.
5 Bend back the lockplate tabs from the
camshaft sprocket bolts, then unscrew and
remove the bolts.
6 Withdraw the sprocket complete with the
timing chain.
Inspection
7 Examine the teeth on the timing sprockets
for any signs of excessive wear or damage.
8 The timing chain should always be renewed
during a major engine overhaul. Slack links
and pins are indicative of a worn chain.
Unless the chain is known to be relatively
new, it should be renewed.
9 Examine the rubber cushion on the
tensioner spring leaf. If grooved or
deteriorated, it must be renewed.
Refitting
10 Commence reassembly by bolting the
timing chain tensioner into position. Check
that the face of the tensioner cam is parallel
with the face of the cylinder block, ideally
using a dial gauge. The maximum permissible
error between the two measuring points is
0.2 mm. Release and turn the timing chain
tensioner as required to achieve this (if
necessary). Refer to the Specifications for the
correct tightening torque.
11 Turn the crankshaft so that the timing
mark on its sprocket is directly in line with the
centre of the camshaft sprocket mounting
flange.
12 Engage the camshaft sprocket with the
timing chain, then engage the chain around
the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket. Push the
camshaft sprocket onto its mounting flange,
and check that the sprocket retaining bolt
holes are in alignment (see illustration). Alsocheck that the timing marks of both sprockets
face each other. If required, turn the
camshaft/sprocket as required to achieve this.
It may also be necessary to remove the
camshaft from the chain in order to reposition
it in the required location in the chain to align
the timing marks. This is a “trial and error”
procedure, which must be continued until the
exact alignment of the bolt holes and the
timing marks is made
(see illustration).
13 Insert and tighten the camshaft sprocket
retaining bolts to the specified torque wrench
setting. Bend up the tabs of the new lockplate
to secure (see illustration) .
14 Retract the timing chain tensioner cam,
and then slide the tensioner arm onto its pivot
pin. Release the cam so that it bears on the
arm.
15 Refit the oil slinger to the front of the
crankshaft sprocket so that its convex side
faces the sprocket.
16 Refit the timing chain cover as described
in the previous Section.
11 Sump -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Refer Chapter 1 and drain the engine oil.
Refit the sump drain plug.
3 Undo the retaining nuts and detach the
exhaust downpipe from the manifold flange.
Note that the flange gasket should be
renewed on reassembly. Allowing sufficient
clearance for sump removal, tie the exhaust
downpipe up with a suitable length of wire or
cord to prevent the system straining the
insulators. On catalytic converter-equipped
vehicles, avoid straining the oxygen sensor
wiring; if necessary, disconnect the sensor’s
multi-plug.
4 Remove the starter motor (see Chapter 5A).
5 Undo the two retaining bolts and remove
the clutch housing cover plate and, where
fitted, the auxiliary drivebelt lower cover from
inside the right-hand wheel arch.
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•7
10.12a Fit the timing chain to the
crankshaft and camshaft sprockets . . .
10.3 Chain tensioner arm removal from the pivot pin. Note tensioner retaining bolts (arrowed)10.2 Oil slinger removal from crankshaft
10.13 Bend locktabs against the camshaftretaining bolt heads to secure10.12b . . . and check that the timing
marks on the sprockets are in alignment
2A
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6Undo the eighteen bolts securing the sump
to the base of the engine crankcase, then
prise free and lower the sump. If the sump is
stuck tight to the engine, cut around the
flange gasket with a sharp knife, then lightly
tap and prise it free. Keep the sump upright as
it is lowered, to prevent spillage of any
remaining oil in it. Also be prepared for oil
drips from the crankcase when the sump is
removed.
7 Remove any dirt and old gasket from the
contact faces of the sump and crankcase, and
wash the sump out thoroughly before refitting.
Check that the mating faces of the sump are
not distorted. Check that the oil pick-up
strainer is clear, cleaning it if necessary.
Refitting
8 Clean the gasket location faces. Apply a
dab of sealing compound to the mating faces
where the ends of each cork half-gasket are
to be fitted (see illustration) . Stick the new
cork gaskets into position on the block face,
using clean thick grease to retain them, then
locate the new rubber gaskets into their slots
in the timing chain cover and rear oil seal
carrier. The lugs of the cork gasket halves fit
under the cut-outs in the rubber gaskets (see
illustration) .
9 Before offering up the sump, check that the
gap between the sump and the oil baffle is
between 2.0 and 3.8 mm (see illustration).Do not use a dented or damaged sump, as
the indicated dimension is important for
correct engine lubrication.
10
Fit the sump into position, and fit the
retaining bolts. Initially tighten them all finger-
tight, then further tighten them in the sequence
shown through Stages 1 and 2, to the torque
wrench settings specified (see illustration).
Note that different tightening sequences are
specified for the tightening stages. Final
(Stage 3) tightening is carried out after the
engine has been started and warmed up.
11 Refit the lower plate to the front face of
the clutch housing and refit the auxiliary
drivebelt lower cover.
12 Refit the starter motor.
13 Check that the downpipe and manifold
mating faces are clean, then locate a new
gasket and reconnect the exhaust downpipe
to the manifold. Where applicable, use new
self-locking nuts, and tighten securely.
14 Check that the sump drain plug is fitted
and tightened to the specified torque, then
lower the vehicle to the ground.
15 Refill the engine with oil as described in
Chapter 1.
16 Reconnect the battery, then start the
engine and run it up to its normal operating
temperature. Check that no oil leaks are
evident around the sump joint.
17 After the engine has warmed up for
approximately 15 minutes, switch it off.
Tighten the sump bolts to the Stage 3 torque
wrench setting given in the Specifications, in
the sequence shown in illustration 11.10.
12 Oil pump -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
1 The oil pump is externally-mounted, on the
rear-facing side of the crankcase.
2 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ).
3 Unscrew and remove the oil filter cartridge.
It should unscrew by hand, but will probably
be tight. Use a strap wrench to loosen it off, if
required. Catch any oil spillage in a suitable
container.
4 Undo the three retaining bolts and withdraw
the oil pump from the engine (see
illustration) .
5 Clean all traces of the old gasket from the
mating surfaces of the pump and engine.
Refitting
6 If the original oil pump has been dismantled
and reassembled and is to be re-used, or if a
new pump is to be fitted, it must first be
primed with engine oil prior to fitting. To do
this, turn its driveshaft and simultaneously
inject clean engine oil into it.
7 Locate a new gasket into position on the
pump mounting flange, then insert the pump,
engaging the drivegear as it is fitted (see
illustration) . Fit the retaining bolts, and
tighten to the specified torque wrench setting.
2A•8 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
12.7 Refitting the oil pump. Note the new gasket12.4 Unscrewing the oil pump retaining bolts
11.10 Sump bolt tightening sequence -
arrow indicates crankshaft pulley end of
engine
See Specifications for torque wrench settings
Stage 1 - Tighten in alphabetical order
Stage 2 - Tighten in numerical order
Stage 3 - Tighten in alphabetical order
11.9 Sump (A) and oil baffle (B) clearance details11.8b Lugs of cork gasket halves to fit
under the cut-outs in the rubber gaskets11.8a Sump gasket fitting details at the
timing chain cover end (A) and the flywheel end (B)
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8Fit a new oil filter into position on
the oil pump body, as described in Chap-
ter 1.
9 Lower the vehicle to the ground, and top-
up the engine oil as described in “Weekly
Checks”.
13 Oil pump - dismantling,
inspection and reassembly
3
Dismantling
1 To inspect the oil pump components for
excessive wear, undo the retaining bolts and
remove the cover plate from the pump body.
Remove the O-ring seal from the cover face
(see illustration) .
2 Wipe the exterior of the pump housing
clean housing.
Inspection
3 Noting their orientation, extract and clean
the rotors and the inner body of the pump
housing. Inspect them for signs of severe
scoring or excessive wear, which if evident
will necessitate renewal of the complete
pump.
4 Using feeler gauges, check the clearances
between the pump body and the outer rotor,
the inner-to-outer rotor clearance, and the
amount of rotor endfloat (see illustrations).5
Check the drivegear for signs of excessive
wear or damage.
6 If the clearances measured are outside the
specified maximum clearances and/or the
drivegear is in poor condition, the complete
pump unit must be renewed.
Reassembly
7 Refit the rotors into the pump (in their
original orientation), lubricate the rotors and
the new O-ring seal with clean engine oil, and
refit the cover. Tighten the retaining bolts to
the specified torque wrench setting.
14 Crankshaft oil seals -
renewal
3
Front oil seal
1 Remove the crankshaft pulley as described
in Section 8.
2 Using a suitable claw tool, extract the oil
seal from the timing chain cover, but take care
not to damage the seal housing. As it is
removed, note the fitted orientation of the seal
in the cover.
3 Clean the oil seal housing in the timing
chain cover. Lubricate the sealing lips of the
new seal and the crankshaft stub with clean
engine oil.
4 Locate the new seal into position so that it is squarely located on the crankshaft stub and
in the housing, and is correctly orientated.
Drift it into position using a large socket,
another suitable tool, or the old seal, until the
new seal is flush with the edge of the timing
chain cover.
5
Lightly lubricate the rubbing surface of the
crankshaft pulley, then refit the pulley as
described in Section 8.
Rear oil seal
6 Remove the flywheel as described in
Section 16.
7 Using a suitable claw tool, lever the seal
from the rear seal housing (taking care not to
damage the housing). As it is removed, note
the fitted orientation of the seal.
8 Clean the seal housing, the crankshaft
rear flange face and the flywheel mating
surface.
9 One of two possible methods may be used
to insert the new oil seal, depending on the
tools available.
10 If Ford service tool No 21-011 is available,
lubricate the crankshaft flange and the oil seal
inner lip with clean engine oil. Position the
seal onto the service tool (ensuring correct
orientation), then press the seal into its
housing.
11 If the service tool is not available, remove
the engine sump (Section 11), then unscrew
the Torx-head bolts retaining the rear seal
housing in position, and remove the
seal housing from the rear face of the cylinder
block. New gaskets will be required for both
the seal housing and the sump when refitting.
Clean the seal housing seat and the mating
surfaces of the sump and the crankcase. To fit
the seal squarely into its housing without
damaging either component, place a flat
block of wood across the seal, then carefully
tap the seal into position in the housing (see
illustration) . Do not allow the seal to tilt as it
is being fitted. Lubricate the crankshaft flange
and the oil seal inner lip with clean engine oil,
then with a new gasket located on the seal
housing/crankcase face, fit the housing into
position. Take care not damage the seal lips
as it is passed over the crankshaft rear flange
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•9
13.4b Checking the inner rotor-to-outer rotor clearance13.4a Checking the outer body-to-rotor clearance13.1 Extract the O-ring from the groove inthe oil pump
14.11a Positioning the crankshaft rear oilseal in its housing13.4c Checking the rotor endfloat
2A
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(see illustration). Centralise the seal on the
shaft, then insert and tighten the housing
retaining bolts to the specified torque setting.
Refit the sump with reference to Section 11.
12 Check that the crankshaft rear flange
and the flywheel mating faces are clean, then
refit the flywheel as described in Section 16.
15 Engine/transmission mountings - inspection and
renewal
2
Inspection
1 The engine/transmission mountings seldom
require attention, but broken or deteriorated
mountings should be renewed immediately, or
the added strain placed on the driveline
components may cause damage or wear.
2 During the check, the engine/transmission
must be raised slightly, to remove its weight
from the mountings.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Position
a jack under the sump, with a large block of
wood between the jack head and the sump,
then carefully raise the engine/transmission
just enough to take the weight off the
mountings.
4 Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the metal components. Sometimes, the rubber
will split right down the centre.
5
Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the
engine/transmission or body (use a large
screwdriver or lever to attempt to move the
mountings). If movement is noted, lower the
engine and check-tighten the mounting
fasteners.
Renewal
6 The engine mountings can be removed if
the weight of the engine/transmission is
supported by one of the following alternative
methods.
7 Either support the weight of the assembly
from underneath using a jack and a suitable
piece of wood between the jack saddle and
the sump or transmission (to prevent
damage), or from above by attaching a hoist
to the engine. A third method is to use a
suitable support bar with end pieces which
will engage in the water channel each side of
the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable hook and chain connected to the engine, the
weight of the engine and transmission can
then be taken from the mountings.
Engine right-hand mounting
8
Unscrew and remove the mounting side
bolt from under the right-hand wheel arch
(see illustration) .
9 Unscrew and remove the mounting
retaining nut and washer from the suspension
strut cup retaining plate (see illustration).
10 Undo the three bolts securing the
mounting unit to the cylinder block. The
mounting unit and bracket can then be
lowered from the engine (see illustration).
11 Unbolt and remove the mounting from its
support bracket.
Transmission bearer and mountings
12 Unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the mountings (front and rear) to the
transmission bearer (see illustration).
13 Support the transmission bearer, then
undo and remove the four retaining bolts from
the floorpan, two at the front and two at the
2A•10 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
15.12 Exploded view of the transmission bearer mountings
15.10 Undo the three bolts securing the
mounting assembly to the cylinder block
and withdraw the mounting
15.9 Unscrew and remove the mountingretaining nut and washer from the
suspension strut cup retaining plate15.8 Unscrew and remove the engine
mounting side bolt (arrowed) from under the wheel arch14.11b Fitting the rear oil seal housing
with a new gasket in position on the rear face of the cylinder block
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rear, and lower the transmission bearer from
the vehicle. Note plate fitment, as applicable,
for reassembly.
14Unscrew the single nut securing each
mounting and its retainer to the transmission
support bracket, and remove. The
transmission support brackets are fixed
externally to the transmission casing and do
not need to be removed for this operation.
All mountings
15 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of
removal. Make sure that the original sequence
of assembly of washers and plates is
maintained.
16 Do not fully tighten any mounting bolts
until they are all located. As the mounting
bolts and nuts are tightened, check that the
mounting rubbers do not twist.
16 Flywheel - removal, inspection
and refitting
3
Refitting
1 Remove the transmission as described in
Chapter 7A, then remove the clutch as
described in Chapter 6. 2
Unscrew the six retaining bolts, and remove
the flywheel from the rear end flange of the
crankshaft - take care not to drop the
flywheel, as it is heavy. A tool similar to that
shown in illustration 16.5 can be fitted to
prevent the flywheel/crankshaft from rotating
as the bolts are removed. If on removal, the
retaining bolts are found to be in poor
condition (stretched threads, etc) they must
be renewed.
Inspection
3 Inspect the starter ring gear on the flywheel
for any broken or excessively-worn teeth. If
evident, the ring gear must be renewed; this is
a task best entrusted to a Ford dealer or a
competent garage. Alternatively, obtain a
complete new flywheel.
4 The clutch friction surface on the flywheel
must be carefully inspected for grooving or
hairline cracks (caused by overheating). If
these conditions are evident, it may be
possible to have the flywheel surface-ground
to renovate it, providing that the balance is
not upset. Regrinding is a task for an
automotive engineer. If surface-grinding is not
possible, the flywheel must be renewed.
Refitting
5 Check that the mating faces of the flywheel and the crankshaft are clean before refitting.
Lubricate the threads of the retaining bolts
with engine oil before they are screwed into
position. Locate the flywheel onto the
crankshaft, and insert the bolts. Hand-tighten
them initially, then tighten them in a
progressive sequence to the specified torque
wrench setting
(see illustration) .
6 Refit the clutch as described in Chapter 6
and the transmission as described in Chap-
ter 7A.
HCS engine in-car repair procedures 2A•11
16.5 Tightening the flywheel retaining bolts to the specified torque
Note the “peg” tool (arrowed) locking the ring gear teeth to prevent the flywheel/crankshaft from rotating
2A
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2A•12 HCS engine in-car repair procedures
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Notes
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2B
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
General
Engine type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . Four-cylinder, in-line overhead camshaft
Engine code:1.4 litre CVH engine: Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. FUF or FUG
CFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . F6E
1.4 litre PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . F4A
1.6 litre CVH engine: Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. LUH
EFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . LJC or LJD
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . LHA
Capacity:
1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1392 cc
1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1596 cc
Bore:
1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77.24 mm
1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 79.96 mm
Stroke:
1.4 litre CVH and PTE engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74.30 mm
1.6 litre CVH engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 79.52 mm
Compression ratio:
1.4 litre CVH carburettor engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5:1
1.4 litre CVH CFi fuel injection engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.5:1
1.4 litre PTE engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 9.5:1
1.6 litre CVH engine: Carburettor models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. 9.5:1
EFi fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.75:1
Turbo models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 8.0:1
Firing order . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 1-3-4-2 (No 1 cylinder at timing belt end)
Direction of crankshaft rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Clockwise (seen from right-hand side of vehicle)
Chapter 2 Part B:
CVH and PTE engine in-car repair procedures
Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Camshaft oil seal - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Camshaft, rocker arms and tappets - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 11
Compression test - description and interpretation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Crankshaft oil seals - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Crankshaft pulley - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Cylinder head - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Cylinder head rocker cover - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See Chapter 1
Engine oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .See
“Weekly Checks”
Engine/transmission mountings - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Flywheel/driveplate - removal, inspection and refitting . . . . . . . . . . 18
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Oil pump - dismantling, inspection and reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Oil pump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Sump - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Timing belt - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Timing belt covers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Timing belt tensioner and sprockets - removal, inspection
and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 9
Top Dead Centre (TDC) for No 1 piston - locating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Valve clearances - general information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
2B•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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