clock FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis

03-09-07

Saginaw Design Integral Power Steering Gear

03-09-07

VALVE SPOOL

DAMP EN
ERO-RING

TORSION BAR

G 1633-A

FIG. 18 —Removing Spool

from Valve Body

7.
Dip three new valve body O-

rings and teflon rings in C1AZ-

19582-A lubricant. Install the O-rings

on the valve body being careful not to

twist them. Slide the three teflon rings

into place over the O-rings being care-

ful not to stretch them any more than

necessary.

8. Lubricate a new dampener O-

ring and install it in the spool groove.

9. Assemble the stub shaft in the

valve body making sure that the

groove in the cap engages the pin in

the body. Tap the cap lightly with a

soft-faced hammer to seat it in the

valve body.

10.
Dip the valve spool in C1AZ-

19582-A. With the notch of the spool

toward the valve body, carefully slide

the spooi over the shaft and into the

body rotating it slightly to permit easy

entry. Make sure that the dampener

O-ring is distributed evenly to prevent

TEFLON RING
damage. Guide the spool to engage

the notch with the dowel in the body.

11.
Place the spool spring on the

stub shaft with the larger diameter

toward the spool. Work the small end

of the spring down over the shaft until

the small end is seated in the groove

of the stub shaft.

12.
If, during the assembly of the

valve, the stub shaft and end cap as-

sembly is allowed to slip out of en-

gagement with the valve body pin, the

spool will be permitted to enter the

valve body too far. The dampener O-

ring seal will expand into the valve

body fluid grooves preventing with-

drawal of the spool. Attempt to with-

draw the spool with a slight pull and

much rotary motion. If this does not

free the spool after several tries, make

sure that the spool is free to rotate;

place the valve body on a flat surface

with the notched end up, and tap the

spool with a wooden or plastic rod

until the O-ring seal is cut and the

spool can be removed. Replace the

dampener O-ring seal and proceed

with the assembly procedure as be-

fore.

RACK-PISTON

1.
Cut the teflon ring and the O-

ring from the piston.

2.
Place the assembly on a clean

lint-free cloth and remove the screws

that attach the ball return guide clamp

to the rack piston and remove the

clamp (Fig. 19).

3.
Lift the ball return guides from

the rack-piston.

4.
Remove Tool T65P-3D517-A

from the piston and remove the re-

maining balls.

5.
Thoroughly clean all parts.

END PLUG

RACK PI STON

DARK COLORED BALLS

(11 REQUIRED)

V

0-RING

POLISHED BALLS

(II REQUIRED)

BALL RETURN GUIDE

CLAMP

B

G1296. A
6. Lubricate a new O-ring and tef-

lon ring. Install the O-ring on the pis-

ton being qareful not to twist it. Slide

the teflon ring into place being careful

not to stretch it any more than neces-

sary.

7.
Slide worm (Fig. 20) fully into

the rack-piston. Load 16 balls into the

guide hole nearest the teflon ring

while slowly rotating the worm count-

erclockwise to feed the balls through

circuit. Alternate the dark colored

balls with the polished balls through

the circuit.

TEFLON RING

FIG. 19—Rack-Piston Disassembled
G 1632-A

FIG. 20—Assembling Rack Piston

Apply Lubriplate liberally to one of

the ball return guides and install the

six remaining balls in the guide. Place

the other half of the guide in position

and insert them into holes in the

rack-piston. Be sure that the dark ball

in the guide is installed next to the

polished ball in the rack-piston. Install

the ball return guide clamp with

screws and lock washers. Tighten the

screws to 8-12 ft-lbs.

8. The worm groove is ground with

a high point in the center. V/hen the

rack-piston passes over this high point

there should be a preload of 1-4 in-

lbs.
Clamp the rack-piston in a vise

with soft jaws with the worm shaft

pointing up. To avoid distortion, do

not tighten the vise too tight.

9. Place the valve assembly on the

worm, engaging the worm drive pins.

Rotate the worm until it extends 1

1/4 inch from the rack-piston to the

thrust bearing face. This is the center

position.

10.
Place an in-lb torque wrench

with a 3/4-inch-deep wall 12-point

socket on the stub shaft, and rotate

the wrench through an arc of approxi-

mately 60 degrees in both directions

several times, then take a torque read-

ing. The highest average reading ob-

tained with the worm rotating should

be between 1-4 in-lbs.

11.
If this reading is too high or

too low a new set of balls should beprocarmanuals.com

03-09-08
Saginaw Design Integral Power Steering Gear

03-09-08

Code

Size

6

7

8

9

10

11
Diameter

Mean

0.28117

0.28125

0.28133

0.28141

0.28149

0.28157
Size Range of Ball

(Inch)

0.28112-0.28122

0.28120-0.28130

0.28128-0.28138

0.28136-0.28146

0.28144-0.28154

0.28152-0.28162

FIG. 21 —Worm Ball Sizes

installed. Service replacement balls are

available in the sizes shown in (Fig.

21).

12.
Note the ball size stamped on

the rack-piston and install the next

size larger balls to increase the pre-

load. If no number is stamped on the

rack-piston, the original ball code size

was No. 7.

A change of one ball size larger will

increase the preload approximately

one in-lb. Final preload on replace-

ment balls should be 2-3 in-lbs.

Remove the valve assembly from

the worm and the rack-piston from

the vise.

13.
Insert Tool T65P-3D517-A into

the plug end of the rack and piston to

contact the worm shaft (Fig. 22).

Apply pressure on the tool while ro-

tating the worm shaft out of the pis-

ton and rack. Leave the tool in place

until the piston is installed in the

housing.

END OF TOOL MUST BE IN

CONTACT WITH WORM

SHAFT

Tool * T65P-3D517-A

FIG. 22—Installing Tool

in Raek-Piston
G 1631-A
ASSEMBLY OF

STEERING GEAR

1.
Secure the steering gear housing

in a vise.

2.
Lubricate the worm shaft, lower

thrust bearing, and races; then posi-

tion the thrust bearing and races on

the worm.

Align the valve body drive pin on

the worm, with the narrow pin slot in

the valve body. Be sure O-Ring seal

between the valve body and the worm

head is installed.

3.
Position the valve assembly and

the worm shaft in the housing as a

unit (Fig. 23). Do not push against the

stub shaft as this could cause the stub

shaft and cap to pull out of the valve

body, allowing the spool seal to slip

into valve body fluid grooves. Install

the valve assembly by pushing on the

outer diameter of the valve body hous-

ing with the finger tips. Be sure that

the teflon rings are not binding inside

the housing. The valve assembly is

correctly seated when the fluid return

hole in the gear housing is fully vis-

ible.

4.
Place the tool shown in Fig. 24

over the end of the stub shaft.

5.
Lubricate a new adjuster plug

O-ring and install it in the adjuster

plug groove.

6. Install the adjuster plug over the

end of the stub shaft and tighten it

DRIVE PIN
just enough to be sure all parts are

properly seated. Remove Tool T65P-

3A537-B.

7.
Install the adjuster plug locknut

loosely on the plug.

8. Tighten the adjuster plug with

wrench J7624 while rotating the input

shaft. As soon as additional drag is

noted, back the adjuster plug off 1/8

turn. Measure the input shaft drag

with an in-lb torque wrench.

9. Tighten the adjuster plug (Fig.

25) to obtain a 1-3 in-lb preload in ex-

cess of the drag that was measured

previously. Tighten the adjuster plug

lock nut and recheck the thrust bear-

ing preload. Total preload must not

exceed 8 in-lbs.

10.
Install Tool T65P-3805-A in

the steering gear housing. Position the

rack-piston as shown in Fig. 26. Be

sure that Tool T65P-3D517-A is con-

tacting the worm shaft. Push the

rack-piston inward until it contacts

the worm shaft while keeping pressure

applied to Tool T65P-3D517-A. Turn

the stub shaft clockwise until the

middle rack groove in the rack-piston

is aligned with the center of sector

shaft roller bearing. Remove the tool

from the housing.

11.
Lubricate a new O-ring with

C1AZ-19582-A and position it in the

sector shaft cover.

12.
Thread the sector shaft cover

on the adjusting screw until it bottoms

then back it off 1 1/2 turns.

13.
Install the sector shaft so that

the center gear tooth meshes with the

center groove in the rack-piston. Be

sure that the cover O-ring is in place

before pushing the cover down on the

housing.

14.
Install the cover screws and

lock washers. Tighten to 30-35 ft-lbs.

15.
Install a new adjuster lock nut

halfway on the adjuster screw.

16.
Install the end plug in the

rack-piston. Tighten the plug to 50-

100 ft-lbs torque.

17.
Lubricate a new housing end

plug O-ring and install it in the hous-

ing.

18.
Place the end plug in the gear

housing and seat it against the O-ring

seal. It may be necessary to tap the

Tool
T65P-3A537-B

STUB SHAFT

ADJUSTER

PLUG

G 1630-A

FIG. 23—Installing Valve and Worm Shaft in Housing
G 1629-A

FIG. 24 —Installing Adjuster Plugprocarmanuals.com

03-10-03
Ford-Thompson Power Steering Pump

03-10-03

EIGHT CYLINDER WITH

AIR CONDITIONER

1.
Remove the power steering fluid

from the pump reservoir by discon-

necting the fluid return hose from the

reservoir and allow the fluid to drain

in a suitable container.

2.
Disconnect the pressure hose

from the pump.

3.
Remove 3 bolts from the front of

the pump and the one nut at the rear

that attach the pump to the mounting

bracket and remove the drive belt

from the pump pulley.

4.
Loosen the upper pump bracket-

to-engine attaching bolt and remove

the bolt in the belt adjusting slot. Re-

move the pump.

5.
Position the pump to the bracket

and install the bracket-to-pump at-

taching bolts and nuts. Tighten to spe-

cifications.

6. Place the belt on the pump pul-

ley. Adjust the belt tension as outlined

in Section 2 and tighten the bolts and

nut to specification.

7.
Torque the pressure hose fitting

hex nut to specification. Then, connect

the pressure hose to the fitting and

torque the hose nut to specification.

8. Connect the return hose to the

power steering pump and tighten the

clamp.

9. Fill the pump with automatic

transmission fluid C1AZ-19582-A.

Bleed the air from the system (Part

3-1) and check for leaks and again
check the fluid level. Add fluid as re-

quired.

POWER STEERING PUMP

PULLEY REPLACEMENT

REMOVAL

1.
Drain as much of the fluid as

possible from the pump through filler

pipe.

2.
Install a 3/8-16 inch capscrew in

the end of the pump shaft to prevent

damage to the shaft end by the tool

screw.

3.
Install the pulley remover, Tool

T63L-1O3OO-B, on pulley hub, and

place the tool and pump in a vise as

shown in Fig. 3.

4.
Hold the pump and rotate the

tool nut counterclockwise to remove

the pulley (Fig. 3). The pulley must be

removed without in and out pressure

on the pump shaft to prevent damage

to internal thrust areas.

INSTALLATION

1.
Position the pulley to the pump

shaft and install Tool T65P-3A733-A

as shown in Fig. 4.

2.
Hold the pump and rotate the

tool nut clockwise to install the pulley

on the shaft. The pulley face will be

flush with end of pump shaft. Install

the pulley without in and out pressure
on the shaft to prevent damage to in-

ternal thrust areas.

3.
Remove the tool.

POWER STEERING PUMP

RESERVOIR REPLACEMENT

Reservoir replacement must be done

on a clean workbench. Cleanliness of

work area and tools is extremely im-

portant when repairing any hydraulic

unit. Thoroughly clean the exterior of

the pump with a suitable cleaning sol-

vent. Do not clean, wash or soak the

shaft oil seal in solvent. Plug the inlet

and outlet openings with plugs or

masking tape before cleaning the

pump exterior or removing the reser-

voir.

REMOVAL

1.
Assemble the adapter plate (Tool

T69P-3A674-A) to the bench mounted

fixture tool (T57L-5OO-A). Position

the pump and pulley on the adapter

plate, pulley facing down.

2.
Remove the outlet fitting hex nut

and the service identification tag.

3.
Invert the pump so the pulley is

facing up and remove the reservoir by

tapping around the flange with a wood

block (Fig. 5).

4.
Remove the reservoir O-ring seal

and the outlet fitting gasket from the

pump.

INSTALLATION

Tool • T 63 L-

10300 -

G 1477 A

FIG. 3—Removing Power

Steering Pump Pulley
1478 A

FIG. 4—Installing Power

Steering Pump Pulley
1.
Install a new gasket on the outlet

fitting and a new reservoir O-ring seal

on the pump housing plate (Fig. 6).

The old gasket and seal should never

be re-used.

Too/
T57L 500-A

G1602-A

FIG. 5—Removing Pump

Reservoirprocarmanuals.com

05-01-06

Drive Shaft

05-01-06

procedures, a sharp rap on the yokes

with a brass hammer will seat the

bearings needles and usually provide

freedom of movement. Care must be

taken to support the shaft end during

this operation, as well as preventing

blows to the bearings themselves. Do

not install the drive shaft unless the

universal joints are free of bind.

DISASSEMBLY (DOUBLE

CARDAN JOINT — LINCOLN

CONTINENTAL — DANA DESIGN)

1.
Mark the position of the spiders,

the center yoke, and the centering

socket yoke as related to the stud

yoke which is welded to the front of

the drive shaft tube. The spiders must

be assembled with the bosses in their

original position to provide proper

clearance.

2.
Remove the snap rings that se-

cure the bearings in the front of the

center yoke.

3.
Position the tool as shown in

Fig. 11. Thread the tool clockwise

until the bearing protrudes approxi-

mately 3/8 inch out of the yoke.

4.
Remove the drive shaft from the

vise.

5.
Tighten the bearing in the vise

and drive on the center yoke as shown

in Fig. 12 to free it from the bearing.

CENTER

YOKE

C 2066-A

FIG. 15—Removing Bearing from

Rear of Center Yoke

SLINGER RING

CENTER YOKE
6. Lift the two bearings (Fig. 13)

from the spider at this time.

7.
Reposition the tool on the yoke

and move the remaining bearing in the

opposite direction so that it protrudes

approximately 3/8 inch out of the

yoke.

8. Grip the bearing in a vise. Drive

on the center yoke to free it from the

bearing (Fig. 12).

9. Remove the spider from the cen-

ter yoke.

10.
Pull the centering socket yoke

off the center stud (Fig. 14). Remove

the rubber seal from the centering ball

stud.

11.
Remove the snap rings from the

center yoke and from the drive shaft

yoke.

12.
Position the tool on the drive

shaft yoke (Fig. 15) and press the

bearing outward until the inside of the

center yoke almost contacts the sling-

er ring at the front of the drive shaft

yoke. Pressing beyond this point can

distort the slinger ring. The arrow in

Fig. 16 illustrates the interference

point.

13.
Clamp the exposed end of the

bearing in a vise and drive on the cen-

ter yoke with a soft-faced hammer to

free it from the bearing.

14.
Reposition the tool and press

on the spider to remove the opposite

bearing.

Tool-CJ91B

C1772-A

FIG. 17—Partially Pressing Bearing

From Center Yoke

C 2067-A

FIG. 16—Center Yoke Interference

Point
C1771-A

FIG. 18—Removing Bearing From

Center Yoke
15.
Remove the center yoke from

the spider.

16.
Remove the spider from the

drive shaft yoke in the same manner.

17.
Clean all serviceable parts in

cleaning solvent. If using a repair kit,

install all of the parts supplied in the

kit. If the drive shaft is damaged, re-

place the complete shaft to be assured

of a balanced assembly.

ASSEMBLY (DOUBLE

CARDON JOINT —

LINCOLN CONTINENTAL —

DANA DESIGN)

1.
To assemble the double cardan

joints,
position the spider in the drive

shaft yoke. Make sure the spider boss-

es (or lubrication plugs on kits) will be

in the same position as originally in-

stalled. Press in the bearing cups. In-

stall the snap rings.

2.
Position the center yoke over the

spider ends and press in the bearing

cups.
Install the snap rings.

3.
Install a new seal on the cen-

tering ball stud. Position the centering

socket yoke on the stud.

4.
Place the front spider in the cen-

ter yoke. Make sure the spider bosses

(or lubrication plugs on kits) are prop-

erly positioned. Press in the bearing

cups and install the snap rings.

5.
Apply pressure on the centering

socket yoke and install the remaining

bearing cup.

6. On kits, remove the plug from

each spider and lubricate the universal

joints.
Reinstall the plug in each spi-

der.

DISASSEMBLY (DOUBLE

CARDAN JOINT — CONTINENTAL

MARK III, THUNDERBORD —

SAGINAW DESIGN)

1.
Working at the rear axle end of

the shaft, mark the position of the spi-

ders,
the center yoke, and the cen-

tering socket yoke as related to the

companion flange. The spiders must

be assembled with the bosses in their

original position to provide proper

clearance.

2.
Position tool CJ91B as shown in

Fig. 17. Thread the tool clockwise

until the injected nylon moulding

snaps and the bearing protrudes ap-

proximately 3/8 inch out of the yoke.

3.
Remove the driveshaft from the

vise.

4.
Tighten the bearing in the vise

and tap on the weld yoke to free the

bearing from the center yoke (Fig.

18).
Do not tap on the driveshaft tube.procarmanuals.com

05-02-03
General Clutch Service
05-02-03

in the direction of the face runout

arrow and its center line is parallel to

the center line of the face runout

arrow.

18.
Determine the amount of the

face runout on the B arrow scale.

19.
The value of the circular line

beneath the amount of face runout

will be the desired reading. If the

reading is in excess of 0.014 inch the

housing alignment is unacceptable.

20.
Remove the Dia-L-lgner gauge

from the flywheel housing.

21.
Install the spark plugs and con-

nect the wires.

ENGINE IN VEHICLE

Since any change in face alignment

will change bore alignment, it may be

possible to correct bore alignment by

changing face alignment. Face align-

ment can be changed by shimming be-

tween the flywheel housing and en-

gine.
Fig. 4 shows the type of shim

which can be fabricated.

Not more than 0.010 inch thickness

shims may be used between the fly-

wheel housing and engine. If a 0.010-

inch shim will not bring face and bore

alignment within limits, replace the

flywheel housing.

The shim required is one half the

maximum (—) indicator reading, and

should be located at the point of max-

imum minus (—) indicator reading.

If both the bore and face alignment

are out of limits, shim between the

flywheel housing and engine to bring

face alignment within limits. Check

the bore alignment.

If the bore alignment is out of lim-

its and the face alignment is within

limits,
shim the flywheel housing to

the limit of face misalignment and

check the bore alignment. If it is not

within limits, replace the housing.

ENGINE OUT OF VEHICLE

The same procedure to correct

alignment may be used with the en-

gine out of the vehicle or in the vehi-

cle,
up to the point of replacing the

flywheel housing. If the bore align-

ment cannot be brought within limits

by shimming, follow this procedure:

dure:

1.
Remove the flywheel housing

from the engine and remove the dowel

pins.
Install the flywheel housing and

tighten the attaching bolts.

2.
Install the dial indicator (Fig. 1).

Check the face alignment, and shim as
C2068-A

. 3—Dia-L-lgner Gauge Installed

required to bring face alignment with-

in limits.

3.
Position the indicator to check

the bore alignment. If the bore align-

ment is not within limits, reduce the

tension on the flywheel housing at-

taching bolts so that the housing can

be moved by striking it with a lead

hammer or a block of wood and a

steel hammer.

4.
The lateral alignment should be

brought within limits so that an indi-

cator reading is within limits between

the 9 o'clock and the 3 o'clock posi-

tions on the bore circle. When the lat-

eral alignment is within limits the

housing usually can be moved straight

up or down without disturbing the lat-

eral alignment. When alignment is

within limits, torque the housing bolts

and recheck bore alignment.

5.
If the flywheel housing cannot be

moved enough to bring the alignment

within limits, mark the holes restrict-

ing movement, and then remove the

housing and drill the marked bolt

holes 1/32 inch larger.

6. When the flywheel housing bore

alignment is within limits and the at-

taching bolts are at normal torque,
C 178 4-A

FIG. 4— Fabricated Flywheel

Housing Shim

hand ream the dowel pin holes 1/32

inch larger. Use a straight reamer and

ream from the flywheel housing side.

Oversize dowel pins can be made from

drill rod stock.

7.
Remove the flywheel housing

and then install the oversize dowel

pins in the cylinder block. Complete

the assembly in the usual way.

8. Recheck the flywheel housing

with the Dia-L-lgner gauge to make

sure that the housing is within the spe-

cified limits.procarmanuals.com

05-03-03
Clutch
05-03-03

CLUTCH PEDAL

ADJUSTMENTS

Adjust
the
clutch pedal free travel

whenever
the
clutch does
not
disen-

gage properly,
or
when
new
clutch

parts
are
installed. Improper adjust-

ment
of the
clutch pedal
is one of the

most frequent causes
of
clutch failure

and
can be a
contributing factor
in

some transmission failures.

FREE TRAVEL

1.
Disconnect
the
clutch return

spring from
the
release lever.

2.
Loosen
the
release lever
rod

locknut
and
adjusting
nut
(Figs.
1, 2

and
3).

3.
Move
the
clutch release lever

rearward until
the
release bearing

lightly contacts
the
clutch pressure

plate release fingers.

4.
Adjust
the rod
length until
the

rod seats
in the
release lever pocket.

5.
Insert
the
specified feeler gauge

between
the
adjusting
nut and the

swivel sleeve. Then tighten
the
adjust-

ing
nut
against
the
gauge finger tight.

6. Tighten
the
locknut against
the

adjusting
nut,
being careful
not to di-

sturb
the
adjustment. Torque
the
lock-

nut
to
specification
and
remove
the

feeler gauge.

7.
Install
the
clutch return spring.

8. Check
the
free travel
at the
pedal

for conformance
to
specification.
Re-
adjust
if
necessary.

9.
As a
final check, measure
the

pedal free travel with
the
transmission

in neutral
and the
engine running
at

about 3000
rpm. If the
pedal free

travel
at
this speed
is not a
minimum

of
1/2
inch, readjust
the
clutch pedal

free travel. Otherwise,
the
release
fin-

gers
may
contact
the
release bearing

continuously, resulting
in
premature

bearing
and
clutch failure. Free travel

must
be
exactly
to
specification.

CLUTCH ASSIST

SPRING REPLACEMENT

(FAIRLANE, FALCON,

MONTEGO)

1.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the

clutch
rod at the
clutch pedal lever
as-

sembly inside
the
passenger compart-

ment.

2.
Grasp
the
clutch pedal lever

firmly
to
prevent slipping
and
remove

the clutch
rod
from
the
lever. Allow

the clutch pedal lever
to
rest
on the

floor panel.

3.
Remove
the
forward bolt secur-

ing
the
assist spring bracket
to the

brake pedal bracket
and
loosen
the

rear bolt
two or
three turns.
Do not

remove
the
rear bolt.

4.
Grasp
the
assist spring bracket

with pliers
and
rotate upward until
the

spring
can be
separated from
the

bracket.

BRAKE PEDAL

BRACKET

CLUTCH ASSIST SPRING

BRACKET
-
7535

CLUTCH PEDAL

7519
5.
Position
the
assist spring
in the

clutch pedal spring bracket
and the

assist spring bracket. Rotate
the

spring bracket downward until
the

forward bolt holes
in the
assist spring

bracket line
up
with
the
holes
in the

brake pedal bracket
(Fig. 4).

6. Install
the
forward bolt retaining

the assist spring bracket
to the
brake

pedal bracket
and
torque
the
forward

and rear bolts
to
specification.

7.
Install
the
clutch
rod to the

clutch pedal lever
and
insert
the
cotter

pin.

CLUTCH PEDAL, PEDAL

ASSIST SPRING AND/OR

BUSHING REMOVAL

AND INSTALLATION

FORD, MERCURY,

METEOR

1.
Remove
the pin
that secures
the

clutch pedal-to-equalizer
rod to the

clutch pedal.

2.
Grasp
the
clutch pecal lever

firmly
to
prevent slipping
and
remove

the clutch
rod
from
the
lever. Allow

the clutch pedal lever
to
rest
on the

floor.

3.
Loosen
the
lower bolt securing

the assist spring bracket
to the
pedal

support bracket
two or
three turns.

Then, remove
the
upper bolt from
the

bracket.
Do not
remove
the
lower

bolt.

4.
Grasp
the
assist spring bracket

with pliers
and
rotate
it
counterclock-

wise until
the
spring
is
free
(Fig 5).

5.
Remove
the
retaining ring from

the
end of the
clutch pedal shaft. Then

remove
the
shaft, bushings
and
clutch

pedal from
the
support.

6. Remove
the
bushings from
the

pedal shaft
and
pedal support
and

transfer
the
rubber pedal
pad.

7.
After lubricating
the
pedal shaft

ASSIST SPRING

LOWER BOLT

ASSIST SPRING BRACKET-

UPPER
BOL"

C 1769-B

FIG. 4—Clutch Pedal Assembly
—
Fairlane, Montego, Falcon
C2058-A

;. 5—Removing Clutch Assist

Spring
—
Ford,
Mercury and Meteorprocarmanuals.com

05-03-04
Clutch

05-03-04

bushings, position the clutch pedal and

bushings in the pedal support.

8. Install the retaining ring on the

clutch pedal shaft.

9. Position the assist spring in the

pedal support bracket and the assist

spring bracket. Rotate the assist

spring bracket clockwise until the

upper bolt holes line up and install the

bolt. Torque both the upper and lower

bolts to specification.

10.
Check the clutch pedal free

travel and adjust as required.

MUSTANG, COUGAR

1.
Disconnect the battery ground

cable.

2.
Remove the steering column.

Refer to Group 3 of this manual for

the procedure.

3.
Remove the two capscrews re-

taining the master cylinder or booster

to the dash panel. Then remove the

two capscrews retaining the pedal sup-

port bracket to the dash panel.

4.
Working inside the vehicle, dis-

connect the clutch pedal-to-equalizer

rod at the clutch pedal by removing

the retainer and bushing.

5.
Secure the clutch pedal against

the bumper stop with a small C-clamp

as shown in Fig. 6.

6. Disconnect the stop light switch

wires at the connector.

7.
Remove the switch retainer and

slide the stop light switch off the

brake pedal pin just far enough for

the switch outer hole to clear the pin.

Then lower the switch away from the

pin.
Remove the master cylinder push

CLUTCH PEDAL ASSIST SPRING
rod, bushing and nylon washer from

the brake pedal pin.

8. Remove the screw retaining the

pedal support bracket to the top inner

cowl bracket (Fig. 6).

9. Remove the two sheet metal

screws retaining the pedal support

bracket to the dash panel.

10.
Remove the two screws retain-

ing the pedal support bracket to the

upper cowl brace and lower the pedal

support bracket away from the steer-

ing column studs.

11.
Remove the pedal support

bracket assembly from the vehicle.

12.
Mount the bracket in a vise.

13.
Remove the small C-clamp se-

curing the clutch pedal to the bumper.

Slowly pivot the pedal away from the

bumper until the assist spring can be

lifted from its seat.

14.
Remove the retainer clip from

the clutch and brake pedal shaft.

Then, remove the clutch pedal and

shaft assembly, brake pedal assembly,

and bushings from the pedal support

bracket.

15.
Apply a coating of SAE 10 en-

gine oil to the bushings and locate all

bushings in their proper places on the

brake and clutch pedal assemblies.

16.
Position the brake pedal to the

pedal support bracket. Install the

clutch and brake pedal shaft through

the pedal support and brake pedal as-

sembly. Install the retainer.

17.
Install the clutch pedal assist

spring and pivot the pedal against its

bumper stop. Secure the pedal against

the bumper with a small C-clamp as

TOP INNER COWL-TO-BRACKET

RETAINING SCREW

C2057-A

FIG.
6—Clutch
Pedal —Mustang and Couga?
shown in Fig. 6.

18.
Position the pedal support

bracket assembly to the dash panel

and to the steering column retainer

studs.

19.
Align the pedal support bracket

holes with the holes in the dash panel

and install the two sheet metal screws.

20.
Install the two capscrews at-

taching the pedal support bracket to

the upper cowl bracket.

21.
Install the screw attaching the

support bracket to the top inner cowl

bracket (Fig. 6).

22.
Install the inner nylon washer,

bushing master cylinder push rod on

the brake pedal pin. Position the stop

light switch so that it straddles the

push rod with the switch slot on the

pedal pin and the switch outer hole

just clearing the pin. Slide the switch

completely onto the pin, and install

the outer nylon washer. Secure with

the self-locking pin.

23.
Connect the stop light switch

wires to the connector and install the

wires to the retaining clip.

24.
Connect the clutch pedal-

to-equalizer rod to the clutch pedal

assembly with the bushing and retain-

er and remove the C-clamp from the

bracket.

25.
Working from the engine side

of the dash panel, install the two cap-

screws attaching the pedal support

bracket to the dash panel. Then install

the two screws attaching the master

cylinder to the dash panel.

26.
Install the steering column.

Refer to Group 3 of this manual for

the procedure.

27.
Adjust the clutch pedal free

travel.

28.
Check the brake pedal free

height and travel measurements

(Group 2).

29.
Connect the battery ground

cable.

CLUTCH PEDAL AND/OR

BUSHING REMOVAL

AND INSTALLATION

MOM EGO, FALCON

FAIRLANF

1.
Remove the retaining clip (Fig.

2) that secures the equalizer rod to the

clutch pedal. Disconnect the rod from

the pedal.

2.
Remove the lower bolt retaining

the assist spring bracket to the pedal

support. Then, loosen the upper

bracket retaining bolt (approximately

4 turns) and disconnect the spring

from the clutch pedal and bracket.

3.
Disconnect the brake pedal push

rod from the brake pedal.procarmanuals.com

06-01-02
General Transmission Service

06-01-02

REAR SEAL REPLACEMENT

1.
Remove the drive shaft.

2.
Remove the seal from the exten-

sion housing with the tool shown in

Fig. 2.

3.
Install the new seal in the exten-

sion housing with the tool shown in

Fig. 3.

4.
Install the drive shaft.

.REAR OIL SEAL

Tool-T61L-7657-A

EXTENSION HOUSING

C 1830.A

FIG. 3—Installing Extension

Housing Seal
Too/-7J75-AB

Tool-TSOT-lOO-A

FIG. 2—Removing Extension Housing Seal

EXTENSION HOUSING

Tool-T52L-7000-GAE

or 7000-G

C1O28-D

FIG. 4—Removing Extension

Housing Bushing and Seal
EXTENSION HOUSING
D
1927. A

Tool—T57P-7697-B

57-G

BUSHING

C 1832.A

FIG. 5—Installing Extension

Housing Bushing

REAR BUSHING AND SEAL

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

1.
Remove the drive shaft from the

vehicle.

2.
Insert the tool shown in Fig. 4

into the extension housing until it

grips on ihe front side of the bushing.
3.
Turn the screw clockwise until

the seal and the bushing are free of

the housing.

4.
Drive a new bushing into the ex-

tension housing with the tool shown in

Fig. 5.

5.
Install a new seal in the housing

as shown in Fig. 3.

6. Install the drive shaft.
LUBRICATION

Lubricant level should be even with

the bottom of the filler hole at the

right side of the transmission case.

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

CLEANING

1.
Wash all parts, except the ball

bearings and seals in a suitable clean-

ing solvent. Brush or scrape all foreign

matter from the parts. Be careful not

to damage any parts with the scraper.

Do not clean, wash or soak transmis-

sion seals in cleaning solvents. Dry all

parts with compressed air.

2.
Rotate the ball bearings in a

cleaning solvent until all lubricant is

removed. Hold the bearing assembly

to prevent it from rotating and dry it

with compressed air.

3.
Lubricate the bearings with ap-

proved transmission lubricant and

wrap them in a clean, lint-free cloth

or paper until ready for use.

4.
Clean the magnet welded to the

bottom of the case with kerosene or

mineral spirits.
INSPECTION

1.
Inspect the transmission case for

cracks, worn or damaged bearings

bores,
damaged threads or any other

damage that could affect the opera-

tion of the transmission.

2.
Inspect the front face of the case

for small nicks or burrs that could

cause misalignment of the transmis-

sion with the flywheel housing. Re-

move all small nicks or burrs with a

fine stone.

3.
Replace a cover that is bent or

distorted. Make sure that the vent

hole in the cover is open.

4.
Check the condition of the shift

levers, forks, shift rails and the lever

and shafts.

5.
Examine the ball bearing races

for cracks, wear or roughness. Inspect

the balls for looseness, wear, end play
or other damage. Check the bearings

for looseness in the bores. If any of

these conditions exist, replace the

bearings.

6. Replace roller bearings that are

broken, worn or rough.

7.
Replace the countershaft (clust-

er) gear if the teeth are chipped, brok-

en or worn. Replace the countershaft

if it is bent, scored or worn.

8. Replace the reverse idler gear or

sliding gear if the teeth are chipped,

worn or broken. Replace the idler

gear shaft if bent, worn or scored.

9. Replace the input shaft and gear

if the splines are damaged or if the

teeth are chipped, worn or broken. If

the roller bearing surface in the bore

of the gear is worn or rough, or if the

cone surface is damaged, replace the

gear and the gear rollers.

10.
Replace all other gears that areprocarmanuals.com

07-01-08
General Transmission Service

07-01-08

3.
Install the bench testing tool on

the transmission.

4.
Remove the
1/8-inch
pipe plug

at the transmission case. Turn the

front pump in a clockwise direction at

75-100 rpm until a regular flow of

transmission fluid leaves the hole in

the transmission case. This operation
bleeds the air from the pump.

5.
Install the pressure gauge (77820

or T57L-77820-A) as shown in Fig.

13.

PRESSURE TESTS

Turn the front pump at 75-100 rpm
and note the gauge readings. The

pressure readings on the bench test

must be within the limits as outlined

in Figure 13, for the engine idle check.

If pressure gauge readings are with-

in limits in all selector lever positions,

install the vacuum diaphragm control

rod unit.

COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS

TRANSMISSION FLUID DRAIN

AND REFILL

Normal maintenance and lubrica-

tion requirements do not necessitate

periodic automatic transmission fluid

changes.

If a major repair, such as a clutch

band, bearing, etc., is required in the

transmission, it will have to be re-

moved for service. At this time the

converter, transmission cooler and

cooler lines must be thoroughly

flushed to remove any dirt.

When filling a dry transmission and

converter, install five quarts of fluid.

Start the engine, shift the selector

lever as outlined below, and check and

add fluid as necessary.

Following are the procedures for

partial drain and refill due to in-

vehicle repair operation.

C4 TRANSMISSION

1.
On PEA models, disconnect the

fluid filler tube from the transmission

oil pan to drain the fluid.

On PEB and PEE models, loosen

the pan attaching bolts to drain the

fluid from the transmission.

2.
When the fluid has stopped

draining from the transmission, re-

move and thoroughly clean the pan

and the screen. Discard the pan gas-

ket.

3.
Place a new gasket on the pan,

and install the pan on the transmis-

sion.

4.
On PEA models, connect the

filler tube to the pan and tighten the

fitting securely.

5.
Add three quarts of fluid to the

transmission through the filler tube.

6. Run the engine at idle speed for

about two minutes, and then run it at

fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until

it reaches it's normal operating temp-

erature. Do not race the engine.

7.
Shift the selector lever through

all the positions, place it at P, and

check the fluid level. The fluid level

should be above the ADD mark. If
necessary, add enough fluid io the

transmission to bring the level be-

tween the ADD and FULL marks on

che dipstick. Do not overfill the trans-

mission.

FMX OK C6

TRANSMISSION

1.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist or

jack stands.

2.
Place a drain pan under the

transmission.

3.
Loosen the pan attaching bolts

to drain the fluid from the transmis-

sion.

4.
After the fluid has drained to the

level of the pan flange, remove the

rest of the pan bolts working from the

rear and both sides of the pan to

allow it to drop and drain slowly.

5.
When the fluid has stopped

draining from the transmission, re-

move and thoroughly clean the pan

and the screen. Discard the pan gas-

ket.

6. Place a new gasket on the pan,

and install the pan on the transmis-

sion.

7.
Add three quarts of fluid to the

transmission through the filler tube.

8. Run the engine at idle speed for

about two minutes, and then run it at

fast idle speed (about 1200 rpm) until

it reaches normal operating tempera-

ture.
Do not race the engine.

9. Shift the selector lever through

all the positions, place it at P, and

check the fluid level. The fluid level

should be above the ADD mark. If

necessary, add enough fluid to the

transmission to bring the level be-

tween the ADD and FULL marks on

the dipstick. Do not overfill the trans-

mission.

OIL COOLER TUBE

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

When fluid leakage is found at the

oil cooler, the cooler must be re-

placed. Cooler replacement is de-

scribed in the Cooling System Section

of Group 11.
When one or more of the fluid

cooler steel tubes must be replaced,

each replacement tube must be fabri-

cated from the same size steel tubing

as the original line.

Using the old tube as a guide, bend

the new tube as required. Add the

necessary fittings, and install the tube.

After the fittings have been tight-

ened, add fluid as needed, and check

for fluid leaks.

VACUUM DIAPHRAGM

ADJUSTMENT NON-ALTITUDE

COMPENSATING TYPE

The C4 and C6 transmissions are

equipped with an adjustable vacuum

diaphragm assembly. A similar ad-

justable diaphragm has been released

for service with the FMX transmis-

sion. However, the FMX service dia-

phragm is not interchangeable with

that used on C4 and C6 models.

The vacuum diaphragm assembly

has an adjusting screw in the vacuum

hose connecting tube (Fig. 14).

SPRING

SEAT

THIS CLEARANCE CHANGED

BY ADJUSTING SCREW

D1830-A

FIG. 14—Adjustable Vacuum Unit

The inner end of the screw bears

against a plate which in turn bears

against the vacuum diaphragm spring.

All readings slightly high or all

readings slightly low may indicate the

vacuum unit needs adjustment to cor-

rect a particular shift condition.procarmanuals.com

07-01-09

General Transmission Service

07-01-09

For example, on a C4 transmission,

if the pressure at 10 inches of vacuum

was 120 psi and the pressure at 1.0

inch of vacuum was 170 psi, and up-

shifts and downshifts were harsh, a di-

aphragm adjustment to reduce the di-

aphragm assembly spring force would

be required.

If the pressure readings are low, an

adjustment to increase diaphragm

spring force is required.

To increase control pressure, turn

the adjusting screw in clockwise to re-

duce control pressure, back the adjust-

ing screw out by turning it counte-

rclockwise. One complete turn of the

adjusting screw (360 degrees) will

change idle line control pressure ap-

proximately 2-3 psi. After the adjust-

ment is made, install the vacuum line

and make all the pressure checks as

outlined in the Specification Section.

The diaphragm should not be ad-

justed to provide pressure below the

ranges shown in the Specification Sec-

tion in order to change shift feel. To

do so could result in soft or slipping

shift points and damage to the trans-

mission.

ALTITUDE

COMPENSATING TYPE

The altitude—compensating di-

aphragm is provided with an adjust-

ment screw located in the vacuum

connecting tube (Fig. 15). The adjus-

table feature allows control and TV

pressures to be adjusted (within limits)

to correct soft or harsh shift feel.

Control and TV pressures are in-

creased or decreased by turning the

adjusting screw.

Before replacing or adjusting the di-

aphragm, it must first be determined

that the pressure or vacuum is actual-

ly out of specification and that the

cause of the problem is not due to

other items within the transmission or

vacuum connecting lines.

If the tests outlined in the Specifi-
cation Section have been performed

and pressures are within specification

but shift feel is unsatisfactory, or if

the pressure is too high or too low at

10 inches of vacuum, the vacuum di-

aphragm may be adjusted to improve

the shift feel.

If shifts are excessively harsh, the

diaphragm should be adjusted to re-

duce control pressure by backing off

the adjusting screw (counterclock-

wise).
If shift quality is extremely soft,

control pressure should be increased

by turning the adjusting screw inward

(clockwise).

To adjust the vacuum diaphragm to

compensate for harsh shift quality,

first check control pressure in D, 2

and 1 at 10 inches manifold vacuum

and note the pressure reading ob-

tained. Remove the T-fitting from the

vacuum hose and back off the adjust-

ing screw (counterclockwise) by one

full turn. Each full turn will reduce

control pressure by approximately 2

1/2 psi at 10 inches of vacuum. Test

the vehicle for shift feel. If shift quali-

ty is still harsh, a further adjustment

should be made to reduce control

pressure. However, control pressure

should not be reduced below the speci-

fication shown for 10 inches of vacu-

um. If control pressure has been re-

duced to the low limit and shift feel is

still excessively harsh, the clutches and

band should be checked for correct

operation.

To adjust the vacuum diaphragm to

compensate for extremely soft shifts,

record the control pressure reading at

10 inches of vacuum in D, 2 and 1,

then make an initial adjustment of

one full turn inward (clockwise). Test

the vehicle for shift feel and again ad-

just the diaphragm, if necessary. Con-

trol pressure at 10 inches of vacuum

must not exceed the high limit shown

in the Specification Section.

When the necessary adjustments

have been completed and shift feel is

satisfactory, repeat all the tests out-

ADJUSTING

SCREW

PRIMARY

THROTTLE VALVE
DIAPHRAGM

SPRING

D 1639-A

FIG. 15—Altitude Compensating Type Vacuum Diaphragm
lined in the Specification Section. All

tests must be within specifications.

The adjustable vacuum unit must not

be used to allow for adjusting control

or TV pressures that are out of speci-

fications. If these pressures are found

to be out of specifications the cause

must be determined and corrected bef-

ore making any adjustment.

NEUTRAL START SWITCH

ADJUSTMENT AND

REPLACEMENT—COLUMN SHIFT

There are two types of column-

mounted neutral start switches: A and

B.
Type A switch has a parking brake

brake-release vacuum valve. Type B

switches do not have a vacuum valve.

The switches differ in appearance but

not in operation. Both switches are

actuated by a removable steel lever,

which is installed in the shifter tube

within the steering column assembly.

The following procedures outline the

steps necessary to correctly adjust and

replace the neutral start switch.

SWITCH ADJUSTMENT

Neutral Position

1.
With the selector lever held light-

ly against the neutral stop, attempt to

start the engine. If the engine starts

while holding the lever but does not

start when the lever is released, the

shift linkage should be adjusted. If the

engine does not start in either condi-

tion, adjust the switch.

2.
To adjust the switch in neutral,

place the transmission selector lever

against the stop of the neutral detent

position.

3.
Loosen the two retaining screws

that locate the switch on the steering

column (Fig. 16).

4.
With the selector lever against

the neutral stop, rotate the switch

until a start in the neutral position is

obtained. Then, tighten the switch at-

taching screws to 20 in-lbs torque.

5.
With the switch properly adjust-

ed in neutral, place the selector lever

in the 1 position and push the park

reset button (Fig. 16) to the left

(counterclockwise) until it stops. The

park reset must be performed when-

ever the switch has been adjusted.

Park Position

1.
Place the selector lever in the

park position, release the lever and at-

tempt to start. If the engine does not

start, reset the park adjustment.procarmanuals.com