tire pressure FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: FORD, Model Year: 1969, Model line: MUSTANG, Model: FORD MUSTANG 1969Pages: 413, PDF Size: 75.81 MB
Page 74 of 413

03-01-09
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-09
the reading exceeds specifications
(Part 3-13), replace the upper ball
joint.
LOWER BALL JOINT
INSPECTION
Ford,
Mercury, Meteor,
Thunderbird, Lincoln Continental
and Continental Mark III
1.
Raise the vehicle and place
jacks under the lower arms as shown
in Fig. 12. This will unload the lower
ball joints.
2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as des-
cribed in Part 3-12.
3.
Attach a dial indicator to the
lower arm and position the indicator
so that the plunger rests against the
inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to
the lower ball joint.
4.
Grasp the tire at the top and
bottom and slowly move the tire in
and out (Fig. 19). Note the reading
(radial play) on the dial indicator. If
the reading exceeds specifications
(Part 3-13), replace the lower ball
joint.
Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon,
Montego, Mustang
1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame
contact hoist or by floor jacks placed
beneath the underbody until the wheel
falls to the full down position.
2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the
lower edge of the tire and move the
wheel in and out.
3.
As the wheel is being moved in
and out, observe the lower end of the
spindle and the lower arm.
4.
Any movement between the
lower end of the spindle and the lower
arm indicates ball joint wear and loss
of preload. If any such movement is
observed, replace the lower arm.
During the foregoing check, the
upper ball joint will be unloaded and
may move. Disregard all such move-
ment of the upper ball joint. Also, do
not mistake loose wheel bearings for a
worn ball joint.
POWER STEERING GEAR
CLEANING
Disassembly and assembly of the
steering gear and. the sub-assemblies
must be made on a clean workbench.
As in repairing any hydraulically op-
erated unit, cleanliness is of utmost
importance. The bench, tools, and
parts must be kept clean at all times.
Thoroughly clean the exterior of the
unit with a suitable solvent and, when
necessary drain as much of the hy-
draulic fluid as possible. Handle all
parts very carefully to avoid nicks,
burrs,
scratches and dirt, which could
make the parts unfit for use.
Do not clean, wash or soak seals in
cleaning solvent.
INSPECTION
1.
Check the sector shaft contact
surface in the cover for wear. If worn,
replace the cover.
2.
Inspect the input shaft bearing
for cracked races and the balls for
looseness, wear, pitting, end play or
other damage. Check the fit of the
bearing on the input shaft. Replace
the bearing, if required.
3.
Inspect the valve housing for
wear, scoring or burrs.
4.
Inspect the tube seats in the
pressure and return ports in the valve
body for nicks, etc. If necessary, re-
move and replace.
5.
Check the sector shaft contact
surface in the housing for wear. If
worn, replace the bushing or the hous-
ing.
6. Check all fluid passages for ob-
struction or leakage.
7.
Inspect the steering gear housing
for cracks, stripped threads, and mat-
ing surfaces for burrs. Inspect the pis-
ton bore of the housing for scoring or
wear. If necessary, replace the hous-
ing.
8. Check the input shaft bearing
after installation to be sure that it ro-
tates freely.
9. If the valve spool is not free in
the valve housing, check for burrs at
the outward edges of the working
lands in the housing and remove with
a hard stone. Check the valve spool
for burrs and if burrs are found, stone
the valve in a radial direction only.
Check for freedom of the valve again.
10.
Check the piston rack teeth and
sector shaft teeth for nicks and burrs.
FLUSHING THE POWER
STEERING SYSTEM—ALL EXCEPT
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND
CONTINENTAL MARK III
Should it be necessary to replace an
inoperative power steering pump, the
need for flushing the steering system
is required when installing the new
pump.
1.
Remove the power steering pump
and remove the pulley as outlined in
Part 3-10.
2.
Install the pulley on a new
pump. Install the pump and connect
only the pressure hose to the pump
(Part 3-10).
3.
Place the fluid return line in a
suitable container and plug the reser-
voir return pipe.
4.
Fill the reservoir with lubricant
(C1AZ-19582-A).
5.
Disconnect the coil wire to pre-
vent the engine from starting and raise
the front wheels off the ground.
6. While approximately two quarts
of steering gear fluid are being poured
into the reservoir, turn the engine over
using the ignition key, at the same
time cycle the steering wheel from
stop to stop.
7.
As soon as all of the lubricant
has been poured in, turn off the igni-
tion key, and attach the coil wire.
8. Remove the plug from the reser-
voir return pipe, and attach the return
hose to the reservoir.
9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if
low, add fluid to the proper level. Do
not overfill.
10.
Lower the vehicle.
11.
Start the engine and cycle the
steering from stop to stop to expel
any trapped air from the system.
POWER STEERING PUMP—ALL
EXCEPT LINCOLN
CONTINENTAL AND
CONTINENTAL MARK III
CLEANING
Wash all parts (except seals) in a
Naptha or Chlorinated-type solvent
and dry with compressed air.
Punch or Rod
RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER
G1607-A
FIG.
20—Cleaning Pump Relief Valveprocarmanuals.com
Page 75 of 413

03-01-10
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-10
The following procedure should be
followed when cleaning the relief valve
which is a part of the pump valve as-
sembly.
1.
Using a punch or rod of suitable
diameter, apply an even pressure in a
straight line to the tip of the relief
valve pin (Fig. 20). Depress the valve
two or three times to exhaust the oil
which is trapped in the assembly. Do
not hammer on the valve pin or hous-
ing.
2.
Submerge the assembly in a con-
tainer of clean solvent. Again applying
an even pressure to the tip of the relief
valve pin, (a sudden strong force could
push the pin through the relief valve
spool) move the valve in and out sev-
eral times, thereby thoroughly flushing
the assembly. Pressure created within
the valve bore when the valve is moved
inward should force the cleaning fluid
out through the sensing orifice. If this
does not occur, the sensing orifice
should be cleaned with a piece of wire.
The valve must move freely and even-
ly. If the pin is bent or damaged, or if
the valve binds, the pump valve must
be replaced.
INSPECTION
The following describes the compo-
nents of the power steering pump
which must be replaced regardless of
condition and how to determine when
other components should be replaced.
The outlet fitting hex nut may be
reused if the corners of the hex are
not rounded. The housing bolts may
be reused if the threads are not dam-
aged.
All gaskets and seals must be re-
placed with new components except
the rotor shaft seal which should be
reused unless it was leaking.
The reservoir assembly may be
reused if the reservoir seal and gasket
areas are not damaged (dents, scratch-
es,
etc.). The soldered joints of the re-
turn and fill tubes must not be loose
or bent. Be sure to check for a broken
baffle.
The housing or housing assembly
may be reused if there is no damage
(scratches, etc.) at reservoir gasket,
outlet fitting or cover seal areas.
If the outlet fitting is damaged, the
pump housing must be replaced. The
pressure plate springs may be reused
providing they are not bent, broken or
have not taken a set.
Do not reuse the retainer end plate
if it is burred or damaged. The upper
pressure plate may be reused if there
is no scoring on the wear surface. It is
acceptable to polish the phosphate
coating.
The rotor and cam assembly can be
reused if there is no wear other than
the removal of the phosphate coating
on the cam contour. Do not disas-
semble the rotor and cam assembly.
Push the rotor part way out the cam
insert taking care not to let the slip-
pers and springs fall out. Check the
cam ID for scoring and burning.
Check the rotor faces and OD for
scoring and chipping. Do not attempt
to repair or refinish the lower and
upper pressure plates, cam or rotor
assembly. When wear or burning is
encountered, replace, them with new
components.
Install a new rotor and cam assem-
bly if the slippers are worn. Replace
the springs if they are bent or broken.
Polishing the phosphate coating of the
slipper sealing surface is permissable.
The rotor shaft can be reused if the
front and rear thrust faces, the bush-
ing diameter and the shaft seal diame-
ter are not excessively worn or scored.
The housing plate and bushing as-
sembly may be reused if all of the
threaded holes are not damaged
beyond repair and the bushing diame-
ter is not scored or worn .0005 inch
over the maximum dimension of .6897
inch. Threaded holes can be repaired
by drilling out the damaged threads
and installing a helicoil insert. If the
bushing is scored or excessively worn,
a new plate and bushing assembly
must be installed.
With Tool T69P-3D608-A (using a
dial indicator) check the squareness of
the fixed dowel pin in the plate (Fig.
21).
The pin must be square with the
adjacent surface within .001 inch per
inch through a 180 degree arch.
A bent or broken dowel pin can be
replaced as follows:
1.
Hold the plate assembly in a
horizontal position and grip at least
an inch of the dowel pin in a vise. Tap
the plate with a plastic or a rubber
hammer to pull the pin from the
plate.
2.
Insert the support guide (Tool
T69P-3D608-B) over a dowel pin (Fig.
22) and press the pin into the plate to
a height of 1.68 inch (See Fig. 23).
The support guide tool will serve as a
stop guide. Be careful not to bend the
new dowel pin during installation.
3.
Again use Tool T69P-3D608-A
(with a dial indicaator) to check the
dowel pin squareness as outlined
above.
POWER STEERING PUMP
INSPECTION—LINCOLN
CONTINENTAL AND
CONTINENTAL MARK III
1.
Wash all parts in clean solvent
and dry them with clean cloths or
compressed air.
2.
Inspect the rotor shaft for wear,
scoring, nicks, or burrs. Replace the
shaft if it is damaged or if the inner
keyway is damaged.
Tool
T69P-3D608-B
G1609-A
FIG. 22—Dowel Pin Insertion
Tool
T69P-3D608-A
G1608-A
FIG. 21—Dowel Pin Squareness
Check
FIG. 23 — Replacing Dowel Pinprocarmanuals.com
Page 76 of 413

03-01-11
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-11
3.
Inspect the rotor, rollers, cam
ring, pressure plate, cover, and bush-
ing in the pressure plate for wear or
scoring. If damaged, replacement of
the pump (less housing) is required.
4.
Make sure the inner faces of the
cover and the housing are free of
paint, nicks, or burrs. Check all fluid
passages for restrictions.
5.
Inspect the valving surfaces
(areas where the rotor and rollers con-
tact) for wear or scoring. Replace the
pressure plate or the cover if worn or
scored. Inspect the bushing in the
pressure plate for wear or scoring, and
replace the plate if necessary.
6. Inspect the control valve for
scores, nicks, or burred edges. Re-
place the valve if damaged. Do not dis-
assemble the valve. Check the valve
for free movement in the housing
bore.
7.
Inspect the tube seat in the hous-
ing. If damaged, remove it with an
E-Z-Out and install a new seat.
SHOCK ABSORBER CHECKS
All vehicles are equipped with hy-
draulic shock absorbers of the direct-
acting type and are nonadjustable and
nonrefillable. They cannot be repaired.
Before replacing a shock absorber,
check the action of the shock absor-
bers as follows:
ON VEHICLE TESTS
1.
Check the shock absorber to be
sure it is securely and properly in-
stalled. Check the shock absorber in-
sulators for damage and wear.
Replace any defective insulators and
tighten attachments to the specified
torque (on a shock absorber which in-
corporates integral insulators, replace
the shock absorbers).
2.
Inspect the shock absorber for
evidence of fluid leakage. A light film
of fluid is permissible. Be sure any
fluid observed is not from sources
other than the shock absorber.
Replace the shock absorber if leak-
age is severe.
3.
Disconnect the lower end of the
shock absorber. Extend and compress
the shock absorber as fast as possible,
using as much travel as possible.
Action should become smooth and
uniform throughout each stroke.
Higher resistance on extension than
on compression is a normal condition.
Faint swish noises are also normal.
Remove the shock absorber for a
bench test if action is erratic. If the
action is smooth, but the shock absor-
bers are suspected of being weak fol-
low step 4:
4.
Repeat step 3 on the mating
shock absorber installed on the oppo-
site side of the vehicle, and compare
results of both tests. If the action is
similar, it is unlikely that either shock
absorber is defective. Reconnect both
shock absorbers.
Replace the shock absorber having
the lower resistance. Ensure that the
part number of the replacement is the
same as that of the original shock ab-
sorber. The replacement shock absor-
ber resistance will appear to be higher
than either original due to initial fric-
tion of the rod seal.
BENCH TEST
With the shock absorber right side
up (as installed in vehicle), extend it
fully. Then turn the shock absorber
upside down and fully compress it.
Repeat this procedure at least three
times to ensure that any entrapped air
has been expelled. Now place the
shock absorber right side up in a vise,
and hand stroke the shock absorber as
described in On Vehicle Tests, step 3.
If action is not now smooth and uni-
form, install a new shock absorber.procarmanuals.com
Page 84 of 413

03-02-08
Suspension
03-02-08
IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS
Damage to steering linkage compo-
nents and front suspension struts may
occur if care is not exercised when po-
sitioning the hoist adapters of 2 post
hoists prior to lifting the vehicle.
If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the
vehicle, place the adapters under the
lower arms or the No. 1 crossmember.
Do not allow the adapters to contact
the steering linkage. If the adapters
are placed under the crossmember, a
piece of wood (2 x 4 x 16 inches)
should be placed on the hoist channel
between the adapters. This will pre-
vent the adapters from damaging the
front suspension struts.
UPPER BALL JOINT
REPLACEMENT
FORD, MERCURY,
METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,
CONTINENTAL MARK III
1.
Raise the vehicle high enough to
provide working space, and place a
support under the lower arm. If a
chain hoist or a jack that has a nar-
row contact pad is to be used on the
bumper to raise the vehicle, distribute
the load along the bumper by using a
steel plate 3 or 4 inches long as a con-
tact pad to prevent damaging the
bumper.
2.
Remove the wheel and tire.
3.
Drill a
1/8-inch
hole through
each upper ball joint retaining rivet.
Using a large chisel, cut off the rivets.
4.
Remove the upper arm suspen-
sion bumper.
5.
Remove the cotter pin and nut
from the upper ball joint stud.
6. Place a box wrench over the
lower end of the ball joint remover
tool, and position the tool as in Fig. 7.
The tools should seat firmly against
the ends of both studs, and not
against the lower stud nut.
7.
Turn the wrench until both studs
are under tension, and then, with a
hammer, tap the spindle near the
upper stud to loosen the stud from the
spindle. Do not loosen the stud with
tool pressure alone. Remove the ball
joint.
8. Clean the end of the arm, and
remove all burrs from the hole edges.
Check for cracks in the metal at the
holes,
and replace the arm if it is
cracked.
F1436-A
FIG. 7—Disconnecting Ball
Joints—Typical
9. Attach the new ball joint to the
upper arm. Use only the specified
bolts,
and nuts. Do not rivet the new
ball joints to the arm. Torque the nuts
to specification.
10 Install the upper arm suspension
bumper. Torque the nut to specifica-
tion.
11.
Position the ball joint stud in
the spindle bore, and torque the at-
taching nut to specification. Install a
new cotter pin.
12.
Install the wheel and tire.
13.
Remove the safety stands, and
lower the vehicle.
14.
Check and, if necessary, adjust
caster, camber, and toe-in. Whenever
any part of the front suspension has
been removed and installed, front
wheel alignment must be checked.
COUGAR, FAIRLANE,
FALCON, MONTEGO,
MUSTANG
1.
Position a support between the
upper arm and frame side rail as
shown in Figs. 8 and 9; then, raise the
vehicle and position safety stands.
2.
Remove the wheel and tire.
3.
Remove the cotter pin and nut
from the upper ball joint stud.
4.
Position the ball joint remover
tool as shown in Fig. 10. The tool
should seat firmly against the ends of
both studs, and not against the lower
stud nut. It may be necessary to re-
move the lower ball joint cotter pin if
it prevents the tool from seating on
the lower stud.
5.
Turn the tool with a wrench until
both studs are under tension, and
then, with a hammer, tap the spindle
near the upper stud to loosen the stud
F 1496-A
FIG. 8—Upper arm Support—Mustangprocarmanuals.com
Page 85 of 413

03-02-09
Suspension
03-02-09
WOOD BLOCK
F
1287-A
FIG. 9—Upper
Arm
Support—
Montego, Falcon
and
Fairlane
Tool-T62F-3006-A
ARM SUPPORT
LOWER BALL JOINT
SLEEVE
Too/-T57P-3006-A
F 1157-C
FIG. TO—Loosening Ball Joint
Studs
in
Spindle—Typical
from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with tool pressure alone. Raise
the stud
out of the
spindle bore.
6. Using
a
large chisel,
cut off the
three upper ball joint retaining rivets
and remove
the
ball joint.
7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and
remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.
Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the
holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is
cracked.
8. Attach
the new
ball joint
to the
upper
arm. Use
only
the
specified
bolts,
nuts,
and
washers.
Do not
rivet
the
new
ball joint
to the
arm. Torque
the nuts
to
specification (Part 3-13).
9. Position
the
lower ball joint stud
in
the
spindle bore,
and
torque
the at-
taching
nut to
specification. Install
a
new cotter
pin and
tighten
the nut if
necessary
to
line
up the
cotter
pin
hole.
Install
a new
cotter
pin in the
lower ball joint
if it was
removed.
1495-A
FIG. 11 —Shaft Centered
in
Arm—Typical
F 1494- A
FIG. 12—Torque Upper
Arm
Inner Shaft Bushings—Typical
10.
Lubricate
the
ball joint,
and in-
stall
the
wheel
and
tire. Torque
the
lug nuts
to
specification (Part 3-13).
11.
Remove
the
safety stands,
and
lower
the
vehicle.
12.
Remove
the
support from
be-
tween
the
upper
arm and
frame.
13.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust
caster, camber,
and
toe-in.
UPPER ARM SHAFT AND/OR
BUSHING REPLACEMENT
COUGAR, FAIRLANE,
FALCON, MONTEGO,
MUSTANG
1.
Remove
the
shock absorber
and
upper mounting bracket
as an
assem-
bly.
2.
Raise
the
vehicle
on a
hoist,
in-
stall safety stands,
and
remove
the
wheel cover
or hub cap.
3.
Remove
the
grease
cap
from
the
hub;
then, remove
the
cotter
pin, nut
lock, adjusting
nut and
outer bearing
from
the hub.
4.
Pull
the
wheel, tire,
and the hub
and drum
off the
spindle
as an
assem-
bly.
5.
Install
the
spring compressor
tool (Figs.
20, 21 and 22).
6. Remove
2
upper arm-to-spring
tower attaching nuts
and
swing
the
upper
arm
outboard from
the
spring
tower.
7.
Rotate
the
inner shaft
so
that
the
studs
can be
removed. Remove
the
studs with
a
soft mallet.
8. Unscrew
the
bushings from
the
shaft
and
suspension
arm;
then,
re-
move
the
shaft from
the arm.
9. Position
the
shaft
in the. arm,
apply grease
to the new
bushings
and
O-rings,
and
install
the
bushings loose
on
the
shaft
and
arm. Turn
the
bush-
ings
so
that
the
shaft
is
exactly
cen-
tered.
The
shaft will
be
properly
cen-
tered when dimensions
A and B in
Fig.
11 are
equal.
10.
Fabricate
a
spacer from
a sec-
tion
of
3/4-inch diameter pipe
or
metal
of
comparable size
and
strength.
The
spacer should
be 6
15/16 inches long.
11.
Position
the
spacer parallel with
the inner shaft,
and
force
the
spacer
between
the
flanges
of the
upper
arm
(Fig.
12).
If
the
spacer cannot
be
forced
be-
tween
the arm
flanges due
to
excessive
distortion, replace
the
upper
arm as-
sembly.
12.
With
the
spacer positioned
in
the
arm,
torque
the
bushings
to
speci-
fication. Move
the arm on the
shaft
to
be sure that
no
binding exists, then
re-
move
the
spacer.
13.
Attach
the
suspension upper
arm
to the
underbody. Release
the
front spring.
14.
Remove
the
spring compressor
and position
the
wheel, tire,
and hub
and drum
on the
spindle.
15.
Install
the
bearing, washer,
ad-
justing
nut and nut
lock. Adjust
the
wheel bearing
as
outlined
in
Part
3-12
and install
the
cotter
pin,
grease
cap
and
hub cap or
wheel cover.
16.
Lower
the
vehicle
and
install
the shock absorber
and
upper mount-
ing bracket.
17.
Check caster, camber,
and toe-
in,
and
adjust
as
necessary (Part 3-1).
LOWER BALL JOINT
REPLACEMENT-
ARM
IN
VEHICLE
FORD, MERCURY,
METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,
CONTINENTAL MARK
III
1.
Raise
the
vehicle high enough
to
provide working space, leaving
theprocarmanuals.com
Page 86 of 413

03-02-10
Suspension
03-02-10
lower
arm
free
to
drop
as
coil spring
tension
is
eased.
If a
chain hoist
or a
jack that
has
a
narrow contact
pad is
to
be
used
on the
bumper
to
raise
the
car, distribute
the
load along
the
bumper
by
using
a
steel plate
3 or 4
inches long
as a
contact
pad to pre-
vent damaging
the
bumper.
2.
If the
ball joint
is
riveted
to the
arm, drill
a
1/8-inch
pilot hole
com-
pletely through each rivet. Then drill
off
the
rivet head through
the
pilot
hole with
a
3/8-inch drill,
and
drive
out both rivets.
3.
Position
a
jack
or
safety stand
under
the
lower
arm, and
lower
the
vehicle about
6
inches
to
offset
the
coil spring tension.
4.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
ball joint stud,
and
remove
the nut.
5.
Place
a box
wrench over
the
lower
end
of the
tool shown
in
Fig.
7,
and position
the
tool.
The
tool should
seat firmly against
the end of
both
studs,
and
not
against
the
upper stud
nut.
6. Turn
the
wrench until both studs
are under tension,
and
then, with
a
hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the
lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with
tool pressure alone. Remove
the
ball
joint.
7.
Clean
the end of the arm, and
remove
all
burrs from
the
hole edges.
Check
for
cracks
in the
metal
at the
holes,
and
replace
the arm if it is
cracked.
8. Position
the
stud
of
the
ball joint
to
the
spindle bore,
and
install
the at-
taching
nut
finger-tight.
9. Attach
the
ball joint
to
the
lower
arm.
Use
only
the
specified bolts
and
nuts.
Do not
rivet
the new
ball joint
to
the
arm.
Torque nuts
to
specification.
10.
Torque
the
ball joint stud
nut
to specification,
and
install
a
new cot-
ter
pin.
11.
Remove
the
jack.
12.
Check
and, if
necessary, adjust
caster, camber,
and
toe-in. Whenever
any part
of the
front suspension
has
been removed
and
installed, front
wheel alignment must
be
checked.
BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
The lower ball joint
is
riveted
to
the
lower
arm
wheras
the
upper ball joint
is bolted
to the
upper
arm.
When
re-
placing
a
ball joint,
use all the
parts
supplied
in the kit.
T57P-3006-A
UPPER
ARM
UPPER BALL JOINT
LOWER BALL JOINT
\
LOWER
ARM
T62F.3006-A
F
1493-A
FIG. 13— Loosening Ball Joint
Stud
Lower
Arm
1.
Raise
the
vehicle. Place
a sup-
port under each rail
to the
rear
of
the
lower
arm in the
lifting
pad
area.
2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire from
the
hub.
3.
Remove
2
bolts
and
washers that
attach
the
caliper
to the
spindle.
Re-
move
the
caliper from
the
rotor
and
wire
it to the
underbody
to
prevent
damage
to the
brake hose.
4.
Remove
the hub and
rotor from
the spindle.
5.
Remove
the
splash shield
and
gasket from
the
spindle.
6. Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
lower ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut
one
to two
turns.
7.
Place
a box
wrench over
the
lower
end of the
ball joint remover
tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.
13.
The
tool should seat firmly against
the ends
of
both studs,
and not
against
the
lower stud
nut.
8. Turn
the
wrench until both studs
are under tension,
and
then, with
a
hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the
lower stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with
tool pressure alone.
9. Place
a
jack under
the
spring
pocket
in the
lower
arm, and
raise
the
arm slightly. Place
a
support stand
under
the
lower
arm as a
safety
pre-
caution.
10.
Remove
the nut
from
the
ball
joint stud. Raise
the
upper
arm and
spindle until
the
spindle clears
the
ball
stud. Prop
the
upper
arm in a
raised
position.
11.
Remove
the
ball -joint rivet
heads with
a
chisel. Punch
the
remain-
ing portion
of the
rivets from
the
holes,
and
remove
the
joint.
12.
Install
the
new
joint using
the
parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
the
nuts
to
specification. Make sure
the
joint
is
completely filled with
the
spec-
ified lubricant.
13.
Lower
the
upper
arm
while
guiding
the
spindle over
the
ball stud.
Install
the
stud
nut and
tighten
it to
specification. Continue
to
tighten
the
nut
to
line
up the
cotter
pin
hole.
In-
stall
the
cotter
pin.
14.
Install
the
gasket
and
shield
on
the spindle. Tighten
the
attaching
bolts
to
specifications.
15.
Install
the
hub and
rotor
on the
spindle
and
adjust
the
wheel bearings.
16.
Install
the
caliper
to
the
spindle
and tighten
the
attaching bolts
to
specifications. Check
for the
correct
flexible hose routing (Part
2-2).
17.
Install
the
wheel
and
tire.
Tor-
que
the
wheel nuts
to
specification
and
lower
the
vehicle.
Upper
Arm
1.
Place
a
jack under
the
outer
end
of
the
lower
arm,
and
raise
the arm.
Place
a
support stand under
the
side
rail
in the
lifting
pad
area.
2.
Remove
the
wheel
and
tire.
3.
Remove
the
cotter
pin
from
the
upper ball stud,
and
loosen
the nut
one
to two
turns.
%
4.
Place
a box
wrench over
the
lower
end of the
ball joint remover
tool,
and
position
the
tool
as in Fig.
13).
The
tool should seat firmly
against
the
ends
of
both studs,
and
not against
the
upper stud
nut.
5.
Turn
the
wrench until both studs
are under tension,
and
then, with
a
hammer,
tap the
spindle near
the
upper stud
to
loosen
the
stud from
the
spindle.
Do not
loosen
the
stud with
tool pressure alone.
6. Raise
the
upper
arm to
free
the
ball stud from
the
spindle. Wire
the
upper
end
of
the
spindle
to the
under-
body
to
prevent damage
to the
brake
hose.
7.
Remove
the
ball joint retaining
nuts
and
bolts,
and
remove
the
joint.
8. Install
the new
joint using
the
parts supplied
in the kit.
Torque
theprocarmanuals.com
Page 89 of 413

03-02-13
Suspension
03-02-13
BALL JOINT BOLT HEAD
STABILIZER
F1370-A
FIG. 18 —Removing or Installing Front Spring
TURN TO COMPRESS
NUT
•
Tool T 63 P-53J0-A
SHAFT SCREW
Lower Adapter Plate
CAVITY
Upper Adapter Plate
T67P-5370-A
FIG. 79—Spring Tool Installation
through the lower arm. Install and
torque the nut to specification.
3.
Secure the lower end of the
shock absorber to the lower arm with
the two attaching bolts.
4.
Secure the strut and the rebound
bumper to the lower arm with the two
F
1492.
A
attaching bolts. Torque the bolts to
specification
5.
Connect the sway bar to the
lower arm with the attaching washer
and insulators as shown in Fig. 1.
Torque the nut to specification.
6. Check the front end alignment
and adjust it to the recommended
specifications if required.
COUGAR, FAIRLANE,
FALCON, MONTEGO,
MUSTANG
Removal
1.
Remove the shock absorber and
upper mounting bracket as an assem-
bly.
2.
Raise the vehicle on a hoist, in-
stall safety stands, and remove the
wheel cover or hub cap.
3.
Remove the grease cap from the
hub;
then, remove the cotter pin, nut
lock, adjusting nut and outer bearing
from the hub.
4.
Pull the wheel, tire and the hub
and drum off the spindle as an assem-
bly.
5.
Install the spring compressor
tool as shown in Figs. 19, 20 and 21.
6. Remove 2 upper arm-to-spring
tower attaching nuts and swing the
upper arm outboard from the spring
tower (Fig. 21).
7.
Release the spring compressor
tool and remove the tool from the
spring. Then, remove the spring from
the vehicle.
Installation
1.
Place the spring upper insulator
on the spring and secure in place with
tape.
2.
Position the spring in the spring
tower. Install the spring compressor,
(Fig. 19) and compress the spring.
3.
Swing the upper arm inboard
and insert the bolts through the holes
in the side of the spring tower. Then,
install the attaching nuts and torque
them to specification.
4.
Release the spring pressure and
guide the spring into the upper arm
spring seat. The end o! the spring
must seat against the tab on the
spring seat.
5. Remove the spring compressor
and position the wheel, tire, and hub
and drum on the spindle.
6. Install the bearing, washer, ad-
justing nut and lock nut. Adjust the
wheel bearing as outlined in Part 3-12
and install the cotter pin, grease cap,
and hub cap or wheel cover.
7.
Lower the vehicle and install the
shock absorber and upper mounting
bracket.
8. Check caster, camber, and toe-in
and adjust as necessary (Part 3-1).procarmanuals.com
Page 90 of 413

03-02-14
Suspension
03-02-14
FRONT SPRING AND
LOWER ARM
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
Removal
1.
Raise the vehicle. Place a sup-
port under each underbody side rail to
the rear of the lower arm in the lifting
pad area.
2.
Remove the wheel and tire from
the hub.
3.
Remove 2 bolts and washers that
attach the caliper to the spindle. Re-
move the caliper from the rotor and
wire it to the underbody to prevent
damage to the brake hose.
4.
Remove the hub and rotor from
the spindle.
5.
Loosen the splash shield to pro-
vide clearance at the end of the arm
when it is lowered.
6. Remove the shock absorber.
7.
Disconnect the stabilizing strut
(drag strut) from the lower arm.
8. Disconnect the stabilizer bar
from the suspension bar.
9. Remove the cotter pin from the
slotted nut attaching the lower ball
joint to the end of the spindle boss.
Loosen the nut one to two turns.
10.
Place a box wrench over the
lower end of the ball joint remover
tool, and position the tool as in Fig.
13.
The tool should seat firmly against
the ends of both studs, and not
against the lower stud nut.
11.
Turn the wrench until both
studs are under tension, then, tap the
spindle with a hammer near the lower
stud to loosen it from the spindle. Do
not loosen the stud with tool pressure
alone.
12.
Place a jack under the outer
end of the lower arm and raise the
arm several inches.
13.
Install the spring compressor
Tool 5310-A (Fig. 23) inside the
spring with the jaws of the tool
toward the center of the vehicle.
14.
Remove the nut from the ball
joint stud. Lower the jack until the
spindle and spring are free, and re-
move the spring and insulators.
15.
Remove the lower arm- to-
crossmember nut, bolt, washers, and
spacer, then remove the arm.
Installation
1.
Connect the inner end of the
lower arm to the underbody
crossmember. Do not tighten the at-
taching nut at this time. Refer to Fig.
22.
Basic Tool Adapter F 1288-B
FIG. 20—Spring Compressor Tool Installed—Upper View—Typical
DETAIL NO 3 T63P-5310-A DETAIL NO.4
DETAIL
NO.
I
21 —Compressing Spring—Lower View—Montego, Falcon
and Fairlaneprocarmanuals.com
Page 92 of 413

03-02-16
Suspension
03-02-16
2.
Place a jack under the outer end
of the arm.
3.
Tape the upper and lower spring
insulators to the spring.
4.
Compress the coil spring with
Tool 5310-A (Fig. 23) and place the
spring and insulators in position. Be
sure both ends of the spring are prop-
erly seated, and raise the arm. Guide
the spindle boss over the ball joint
stud.
5.
Install the ball joint stud retain-
ing nut and torque it to specification.
Continue tightening the nut to line up
the cotter pin hole. Install a new cot-
ter pin.
6. Connect the stabilizer bar to the
lower arm. Torque the nut to specifi-
cation.
7.
Connect the drag strut to the
lower arm. Torque the nuts to specifi-
cation.
8. Install the shock absorber.
9. Tighten the splash shield attach-
ing bolts to specifications.
10.
Install the hub and rotor on the
spindle and adjust the wheel bearings.
11.
Install the caliper to the spindle
and tighten the attaching bolts to
specifications. Check for the correct
flexible hose routing (Part 2-2).
12.
Install the wheel and tire on the
hub.
Torque the wheel lug nuts to
specifications and remove the support
stands.
13.
With the front end weight of
the car on the wheels, torque the
lower arm-to-crossmember bolt at-
taching nut to specification.
FRONT SUSPENSION
LOWER ARM
FORD, MERCURY,
METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,
CONTINENTAL MARK III
Removal
1.
Raise the front of the vehicle and
position safety stands under both sides
of the frame just back of the lower
arms.
2.
Remove the hub cap or wheel
cover.
3.
If equipped with drum type
brakes—Remove the wheel and tire
and brake drum as an assembly. Re-
move the brake backing plate attach-
ing bolts and remove the backing
plate from the spindle. Wire the back-
ing plate to the underbody to prevent
damage to the brake hose.
4.
If equipped with disc brakes-
—Remove the wheel and tire from the
•Tool—5310-A
F 1491-A
FIG. 23—Coil Spring Compressed
for Installation
F1437-A
FIG. 24—Removing Front Spring
—Lower Arm Replacement
hub.
Remove 2 bolts and washers that
attach the caliper and brake hose to
the spindle. Remove the caliper from
the rotor and wire it to the underbody
to prevent damage to the brake hose.
Then, remove the hub and rotor from
the spindle.
5.
Disconnect the lower end of the
shock absorber, and push it up to the
retracted position.
6. Disconnect the stabilizer bar link
from the lower arm.
7.
Remove the cotter pins from the
upper and lower ball joint stud nuts.
8. Remove 2 bolts and nuts attach-
ing the strut to the lower arm.
9. Loosen the lower ball joint stud
nut one or two turns. Do not remove
the nut from the stud at this time.
10.
Install Tool T57P-3OO6-A bet-
ween the upper and lower ball joint
studs (Fig. 7). The tool should be
seated firmly against the ends of both
studs and not against the stud nuts.
11.
With a wrench, turn the adapter
screw until the tool places the stud
under tension. Tap the spindle near
the lower stud with a hammer to loos-
en the stud in the spindle. Do not
loosen the stud from the spindle with
tool pressure only.
12.
Position a floor jack under the
lower arm (Fig. 24) and remove the
lower ball joint stud nut.
13.
Lower the floor jack and re-
move the sprina and insulator (Fie.
25).
14.
Remove one nut and bolt at-
taching the lower control arm to the
No.
2 crossmember and remove the
lower arm (Fig. 24).
Installation
1.
Position the lower arm to the
No.
2 crossmember and loosely install
the attaching bolt and nut (Fig. 1).
2.
Position the spring and insulator
to the upper spring pad and lower
arm. Using a floor jack, compress the
spring and guide the lower ball joint
stud into the spindle hole.
3.
Install the ball joint stud attach-
ing nut and torque to specification.
Continue to tighten the nut until the
cotter pin hole is in line with the nut
slots.
Install a cotter pin in the upper
and lower ball joint studs.
4.
Pull the shock absorber down
and connect it to the lower arm.
5.
Position the strut and bumper to
the lower arm. Install the attaching
bolts and nuts and torque to specifica-
tion.
6. Torque the lower arm to No. 2
crossmember attaching bolt and nut to
specifications.
7.
Position the stabilizer bar link to
the lower arm and install the attach-
ing nuts.
8. If equipped with drum type
brakes—Position the brake backing
plate to the spindle and install the at-
taching bolts. Torque the bolts to spe-
cification. Adjust the brakes as out-
lined in Group 2. Install the wheel,
tire,
and drum to the spindle and ad-
just the wheel bearings as outlined in
Part 3-12.
If equipped with disc brakes-Install
the hub and rotor on the spindle.
Position the caliper over the rotor and
install the attaching bolts. Torque the
bolts to specification. Install the
wheel and tire on the wheel hub and
adjust the wheel bearings as outlined in
Part 3-12.
9. Install the hub cap or wheel
cover.
10.
Remove the safety stands and'
lower the vehicle.
11.
Check the caster, camber, and
toe-in and adjust as required (Section
2,
Part 3-1).procarmanuals.com
Page 93 of 413

03-02-17
Suspension
03-02-17
BOLT
REAR
ADJUSTMENT
5A486
NUT
BUSHING
OUTER
SLEEVE
3A187 3B282
CASTELLATED
FRONT
ADJUSTMENT
NUT
NUT
LOWER BALL JOINT
3042
F
1152-
E
FIG.
25—
Front
Suspension Assembly
COUGAR, FAIRLANE,
FALCON, MONTEGO,
MUSTANG
Removal
1.
Position a support between the
upper arm and side rail as shown in
Figs.
8 and 9).
2.
Raise the vehicle, position safety
stands,
and remove the wheel and tire.
3.
Remove the stabilizer bar and
link attaching nut. Disconnect the bar
from the link, and remove the link
bolt
4.
Remove the strut to lower arm
attaching nuts and bolts.
5.
Remove the cotter pin from the
nut on the lower ball joint stud, and
loosen the nut one or two turns. Do
not
remove the nut from the stud at
this
time.
6.
Straighten the cotter pin on the
upper ball joint stud nut. Position the
ball joint remover tool between the
upper and lower ball joint studs in the
reverse position from that shown in
Fig.
10. The tool should seat firmly
against the ends of both studs and not
against the stud nuts.
7.
Turn the tool with a wrench until
the tool places the studs under consid-
erable tension, and hit the spindle
near the lower stud smartly with a
hammer to break the stud loose in the
spindle. Do not loosen the stud in the
spindle with tool pressure only. If
both arms are being removed, loosen
the upper stud in the same manner as
the lower stud.
8. Remove the nut from the lower
ball joint stud, and lower the arm.
9. Remove the lower arm to under-
body pivot bolt, nut and washer. Re-
move the lower arm.
Installation
1.
Position the lower arm to the
underbody bracket and install the
pivot bolt, washer, and nut loosely.
2.
Raise the lower arm, guide the
lower ball joint stud into the spindle
bore,
and install the stud attaching
nut loosely.
3.
Install the stabilizer link bolt,
washers,
bushings and spacer. Connect
the stabilizer bar to the link. Install
the attaching nut and torque to speci-
fications (Fig. 25).
4.
Position the strut to the lower
arm. Install the attaching bolts and
nuts,
and torque to specification.
5.
Torque the lower ball joint stud
nut to specification, continue to tight-
en the nut until the cotter pin hole
and slots are aligned, and install a
new cotter pin.
6. Torque the lower arm- to
underbody pivot bolt and nut to speci-
fication.
7.
Remove the safety stands and
lower the vehicle.
8. Remove the support from be-
tween the upper arm and frame.
9.
Check and, if necessary, adjust
caster, camber, and toe-in.
FRONT
SUSPENSION
UPPER
ARM
FORD,
MERCURY,
METEOR,
THUNDERBIRD,
CONTINENTAL
MARK III
Removal
1.
Raise the front of the vehicle and
position safety stands under both sides
of the frame just back of the lower
arm.
2.
Remove the hub cap or wheel
cover.
3.
If equipped with drum type
brakes—remove the wheel and tire
and brake drum as an assembly (Part
3-12).
4.
If equipped with disc brakes—re-
move the wheel and tire from the hub.procarmanuals.com