GREAT WALL FLORID 2008 Workshop Manual
Manufacturer: GREAT WALL, Model Year: 2008, Model line: FLORID, Model: GREAT WALL FLORID 2008Pages: 281, PDF Size: 43.97 MB
Page 41 of 281
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Exhaust System Removal
Caution: Wait at least 30 minutes between the engine
being turned off and the actual removal of any component
of the exhaust system, as to avoid personnel injury due to
hot components.
1. Main muffler assembly removal
(a) First use a No. 13 wrench (open), sleeve, or ratchet
spanner to remove the connecting spring bolt between
the front flange of the main muffler assembly and the
rear flange of the sub-muffler. Then take out the gasket
between the flanges.
(b) Remove the two rubber hangers on the main muffler.
(c) Take down the main muffler assembly.
Caution: The sealing ring between the front flange of
the main muffler assembly and the rear flange of the
sub-muffler is used only for sealing. If reused, it may
cause large deformations and result in a poor sealing
effect. Accordingly, it is suggested not to use a sealing
ring repeatedly. If necessary, only one repetition should
be allowed.
Warning: While performing this kind of maintenance
work, a person should be present to support the main
muffler to avoid injury in case the muffler falls.
2. Sub-muffler assembly removal
(a) Use a No. 14 wrench (open), sleeve, or ratchet wrench
to remove the connecting bolt between the front flange
of the sub-muffler assembly and the rear flange of the
catalyst assembly.
(b) Remove the support of the sub-muffler plate bracket.
(c) Remove the two two-hole rubber hangers between the
sub-muffler and the frame.
(d) Take down the sub-muffler assembly.
Caution: The sealing ring between the front flange of
the sub-muffler and the rear flange of the catalyst as-
sembly is used only for sealing. If reused, it may cause
large deformations and result in a poor sealing effect.
Accordingly, it is suggested not to use a sealing ring
repeatedly. If necessary, only one repetition should be
allowed.
Warning: While performing this kind of maintenance
work, a person should be present to support the sub-
muffler to avoid injury in case the muffler falls.
3. Rear catalytic assembly removal
(a) Remove the connecting spring bolt between the front
flange of the sub-muffler assembly and the rear flange
of the rear catalytic assembly. Then take out the sealing
ring between the flanges.
(b) Take off the rear catalytic assembly.
Page 42 of 281
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 35Fuel Supply and Exhaust System
4. Front exhaust pipe removal
(a) Use a No. 14 wrench (open), sleeve, or ratchet wrench
to remove the connecting nut between the front flange
of the front exhaust pipe assembly and the flange of the
exhaust manifold. Then take out the gasket between the
flanges.
(b) Carefully remove the front exhaust pipe from the
subframe.
Caution: The gasket between the front flange of the
f r o n t e x h a u s t p i p e a n d t h e f l a n g e o f t h e e x h a u s t
manifold are used only for sealing. If reused, they may
cause large deformations and result in a poor sealing
effect. Accordingly, it is suggested not to use the
sealing ring repeatedly.
Exhaust System Installation
1. The clearance between the exhaust pipe assembly and
both sides of the individual components should be no
less than 15 mm.
2. Before installing rubber hangers, coat a proper amount
of silicon oil in holes. After installation, even force
should be applied.
3. After installing the center exhaust pipe with the three-
way catalytic converter assembly, ensure the plug of
the oxygen sensor is well connected.
Page 43 of 281
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Clutch Operational System
Areas of Importance ...........................................................37
Troubleshooting ..................................................................37
Clutch Operational System .................................................38
Components .....................................................................38
Clutch Master Cylinder Removal ......................................38
Clutch Master Cylinder Installation ...................................40
Clutch Pedal Removal ......................................................40
Clutch Pedal Installation ...................................................40
Clutch Pedal Examination and Adjustment.......................41
Page 44 of 281
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 37Clutch Operational System
Areas of Importance
1. Clutch Rigid Pipe Installation
Before installing, check to make sure that the rigid pipe flare contact area is in good condition, the pipeline is
clean, and that there is no foreign materials.
2. Clutch Hose Installation
Check the surface of the clutch hose to make sure that there is no scuffing and that the pipeline is clean.
3. Coat grease on the U-joint of the pedal and the master cylinder.
4. Strictly adhere to the set torque guidelines when tightening the pipe fittings.
Rigid pipe and the master cylinder: M10 16±2 N·m
Clutch rigid pipe and hose: M10 16±2 N·m
5. While the clutch system is undergoing the exhausting process, make sure that all the air bubbles in
the pipeline are cleared out. Then check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, it should be between
MIN and MAX.
Troubleshooting
The numbers in the table represent the order of the possible malfunction causes, so be sure to check each part in
turn. If necessary, replace the part.
SymptomsPossible Causes
Clutch vibration1. Engine mounting bracket (loose)
2. Clutch plate (axial runout is too much)
3. Clutch plate (oil build-up)
4. Clutch plate (polished)
5. Clutch plate (hardened)
6. Diaphragm spring (damaged)
Clutch pedal is spongy1. Clutch pipeline (air entering)
2. Clutch master cylinder cup (damaged)
3. Clutch slave cylinder cup (damaged)
Clutch makes abnormal noise1. Clutch release bearing (wear and tear, dirty or damaged)
2. Driven plate torsion damper (damaged)
Clutch slips1. Clutch pedal (free play is out of alignment)
2. Clutch plate (oil build-up)
3. Clutch plate (polished)
4. Diaphragm spring (damaged)
5. Pressure plate (deformed)
6. Flywheel (deformed)
Clutch cannot be disengaged1. Clutch pedal (free play out of alignment)
2. Clutch pipeline (air entering)
3. Clutch master cylinder cup (damaged)
4. Clutch slave cylinder cup (damaged)
5. Clutch plate (axial runout is too much)
6. Clutch plate (wear out from friction)
7. Clutch plate (dirty or burnt)
8. Clutch plate (oil build-up)
9. Clutch plate (lack of grease on the spline)
Page 45 of 281
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Clutch Operational System
Components
Clutch Master Cylinder Removal
1. Use a combination plier to loosen the steel band elastic
hoop, and to remove the clutch feed connecting hose.
Caution: Release the brake fluid in the reservoir before
disconnecting the hose.
Steel band elastic hoop
Clutch feed connecting hose
Reservoir
Steel band elastic hoop
Clutch feed connecting hose
Clutch discharge pipe
Clutch master cylinder
Limit adjusting bolt
Return spring
Lock nut
Page 46 of 281
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 39Clutch Operational System
2. Remove the driven clutch discharge pipe with a M10
open-end wrench.
3. Remove the pedal lock pin.
4. Remove the return spring and the connecting pin.
5. Remove the lock nuts of the clutch pedal with a M13
sleeve and an extension bar.
6. Remove the clutch master cylinder.
Clutch discharge pipe
Pedal lock pin
Return springConnecting pin
Lock nut
Clutch master cylinder
Page 47 of 281
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Clutch Master Cylinder Installation
Installation of clutch system is reverse to its removal, but
since the whole clutch system uses hydraulic assistance,
make sure to air bleed it after the installation is completed.
Detailed steps as follows:
(a) Plug one end of the long transparent connection hose
(about 0.5 m long) into the bottom of bleed screw, and
the other end into a fixed container.
(b) Loosen the bleed screw via the open end of the M8,
meanwhile ask the assistant to step on the clutch pedal
repeatedly until no air bubbles can be seen in the hose.
R e m a r k : R e s i d u a l a i r i n t h e c l u t c h s y s t e m h a s b e e n
completely exhausted.
(c) Lastly, lock the bleed screw.
Caution: Refilling the brake fluid reservoir should be
performed while air bleeding the clutch.
Clutch Pedal Removal
1. Remove the battery's negative cable.
2. Remove the glove box at the left of the dashboard.
3. Remove the cotter pin at the U-joint of the clutch
master cylinder, and separate the center pin and the
pedal lever.
4. Remove the clutch pedal bracket from the cowl.
5. Remove the clutch pedal.
(a) Move the clutch pedal to the maximum stroke position.
(b) Take down the return spring.
(c) Remove the bolts and nuts.
(d) Take the pedal lever down from the pedal bracket.
Clutch Pedal Installation
1. Install the clutch pedal.
(a) Install the return spring.
(b) Install the clutch pedal lever.
(c) Install the bolts and nuts.
Tightening torque: 30 N·m
(d) Put the pedal lever at the maximum stroke position and
connect it with the spring, in order to set the pedal to its
initial position.
2. Install the clutch pedal onto the 2 studs of the clutch
master cylinder.
Use a M13 wrench to tighten the clutch pedal brackets with
two M8 nuts.
Tightening torque: 23±3 N·m
3. Install the clutch master cylinder push rod with the U-
joint.
(a) Coat the contact areas between the center pin and the
U-joint pedal connector with multi-functional grease.
(b) In succession, join the U-joint (pedal connector) and
the clutch pedal lever with a cotter pin.
Caution: Insert the center pin into the pedal lever from
the left side of vehicle.
(c) Install the cotter pin onto the center pin.
4. Check and adjust the clutch pedal.
5. Connect the negative cable of the battery.
Bleed screw
Page 48 of 281
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 41Clutch Operational System
Clutch Pedal Examination and Adjustment
1. Check if the pedal height is correct.
Height from the carpet: 100-110 mm
2. Adjust the pedal height.
Loosen the lock nut and adjust the clutch pedal limit adjust-
ing bolt until its height is correct, and then tighten the lock
nut.
Tightening torque: 20 N·m
3. Check if the pedal free play is correct.
Step on the pedal until one can feel the resistance.
Pedal free play: 13.7 mm
4. Adjust the free play.
(a) Loosen the lock nuts of the clutch master cylinder and
rotate the push rod until the pedal reaches the correct
free play.
(b) Tighten the lock nuts.
Tightening torque: 20 N·m
(c) Recheck the clutch pedal height.
Pedal height
Lock nut
Limit adjusting bolt
Lock nut
Free play
Page 49 of 281
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Transmission
037A Transmission’s Overall External Schematics ............43
Main Technical Parameters ...............................................43
Transmission's Proper Use and Care .................................44
Technical Specifications for Transmission Installation
and Adjustment ...................................................................44
Areas of Importance ...........................................................45
Troubleshooting ..................................................................46
037A Transmission Structural Schematics .........................47
Clutch ........................................................................\
.........48
Gear Shift Fork and Fork Shaft...........................................49
Transmission Case .............................................................50
Disassembling the Input Shaft Subassembly .....................56
Disassembling the Output Shaft Subassembly ..................60
Disassembling the Shift Cover Subassembly .....................64
Disassembling the Differential Subassembly .....................68
Page 50 of 281
Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine 43Transmission
Main Technical Parameters
Basic parameters of the 037A transmission
Max. input torque115 N·m/4400-5200 rpm
Speed ratio for each gear3.5451.9131.3100.9730.8043.214
Main deceleration ratio3.944
Odometer speed ratio31/35 (currently no driven gear)
Center distance (mm)65
Lubricant capacity (L)1.8
Control methodRemote cable control
Netweight (kg)28
Match engineGW413EF
037A Transmission’s Overall External Schematics
The 037A transmission is a step mechanical transmission with differential, two-shaft front wheel drive
application. The forward gear has adopted the inertia synchronizer gear-shifting mechanism, which offers
smooth and easy gear shifting, reduces noise dramatically, and improves the service life of the gear - important
in achieving the overall economical efficiency. Regarding its control mechanism, the set steel ball and spring
allow the shifting gear to be quick, accurate with solid handling. The 5th gear transmission is equipped with an
interlocking mechanism to prevent accidental switching to reverse, to im\
prove driving comfort and reliability.