brake ISUZU TROOPER 1995 User Guide

3-2 DIAGNOSIS
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS
Condition Possible Cause Correction
Vehicle
Pulls 1. Mismatched or uneven tires. Replace tire.
2. Tires not adequately inflated. Adjust tire pressure.
3. Broken or sagging springs. Replace spring.
4. Radial tire lateral force. Replace tire.
5. Improper wheel alignment. Adjust wheel alignment.
6. Brake dragging in one wheel. Repair brake.
7. Loose, bent or broken front or rear suspension Tighten or replace the
parts. appropriate suspension
part(s).
8. Faulty shock absorbers. Replace shock absorber.
Abnormal or Excessive 1. Sagging or broken spring. Replace spring.
Tire Wear
2. Tire out of balance. Balance or replace tire.
3. Improper wheel alignment. Check front end alignment.
4. Faulty shock absorber. Replace shock absorber.
5. Hard driving. Replace tire.
6. Overloaded vehicle. Replace tire
and reduce
load.
7. Tires not rotated periodically. Replace or rotate
tire.
8. Worn or loose road wheel bearings. Replace wheel bearing.
9. Wobbly wheel or tires. Replace wheel or tire.
10. Tires not adequately inflated. Adjust the pressure.
Wheel Tramp or Hop 1. Blister or bump on tire. Replace tire.
2. Improper shock absorber operation. Replace shock absorber.
Shimmy,
Shake or 1. Tire or wheel out of balance. Balance
wheels or replace
Vibration tire/or wheel.
2. Loose wheel bearings. Replace wheel bearing.
3. Worn steering linkage ball joints. Replace ball joints.
4. Worn upper or lower end ball joints. Replace ball joints.
5. Excessive wheel runout. Repair or replace
wheel
and/or tire.
6. Blister or bump on tire. Replace tire.
7. Excessive loaded radial runout of tire/wheel Replace tire or wheel.
assembly.
8. Improper wheel alignment. Check
wheel alignment.
9. Loose or worn steering linkage. Tighten or replace steering
linkage.
10. Loose steering gear. Tighten
housing bolts.
11. Tires not adequately inflated. Adjust tire pressure.
12. Loose, bent or broken front or rear Tighten or replace the
suspension parts. appropriate suspension
parts.
13. Faulty shock absorber. Replace shock absorber.
14. Hub bearing preload misadjustment. Adjust preload.
Hard Steering 1. Bind in steering linkage ball studs, upper or Replace ball joint.
lower end ball joint.
2. Improper wheel alignment. Check wheel alignment.
3. Steering gear misadjustment. Check and adjust pinion
torque.
4. Tire not adequately inflated. Inflate tires to proper
pressure.
5. Bind in steering column or shaft. Repair or replace.
6. Improper power steering
system operation. Repair or replace.
Refer to "Power steering
system diagnosis"
'· •

3-4 DIAGNOSIS
Condition Possible Cause Correction
Erratic Steering When 1. Worn wheel bearings. Replace wheel bearings.
Braking
2. Broken or sagging springs. Replace spring (pairs).
3. Leaking caliper. Repair or replace caliper.
4. Warped discs. Replace brake disc.
5. Badly worn brake pads. Replace brake pads.
6. Tires are inflated unequally. Inflate tires to proper
pressure.
Low or Uneven Trim
1. Broken or sagging springs. Replace springs (In pairs)
Height
2. Vehicle overloaded. Reduce load.
3. Incorrect springs. Adjust or replace torsion
bar.
Suspension Bottoms
1. Vehicle overloaded. Reduce load.
2. Faulty shock absorber. Replace shock absorber
3. Incorrect, broken or sagging springs. Replace springs.
Body Leans
1. Loose stabilizer bar. Tighten stabilizer bar bolts
or replace bushings.
2. Faulty shock
absorber, struts or mounting. Replace shock absorber.
3. Broken or sagging springs. Replace springs (In pairs)
4. Vehicle overloaded. Reduce load.
Cupped Tires 1. Worn wheel bearings. Replace wheel bearing.
2. Excessive tire or wheel run-out. Replace tire or wheel.
3. Worn ball joints. Replace ball joints.
4. Tire out of balance. Adjust tire balance.
•

DIAGNOSIS 3-5
POWER STEERING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
HISSING NOISE
There is some noise in all power steering systems. One of the most common is a hissing sound when the steering
wheel is fully turned and the car is not moving. This noise will be most evident when the wheel is operated while
the brakes are applied. There is no relationship between this noise and steering performance. Do not replace the
valve unless the "hissing" noise is extremely objectionable. A replacement valve will also have a slight noise, and
is
not always a cure for the condition.
Condition
Possible Cause Correction
Rattle or Chucking 1. Pressure
hose touching other parts of vehicle. Adjust hose position. Do not
Noise bend
tubing by hand.
2. Tie rod ends loose. Tighten or replace tie rod
end.
3. Loose steering gear mounting. Tighten
steering gear
mounting.
4. Steering gear misadjustment. Check and adjust steering
gear
preload.
Poor Return of Steering 1. Improper front wheel alignment. Adjust front wheel
Wheel
to Center alignment.
2. Wheel bearing worn. Replace front wheel
bearing.
3. Tie rod end binding. Replace tie rod end.
4. Ball joint binding. Replace ball joint.
5. Tight or frozen steering shaft bearing. Replace steering assembly.
6. Steering gear misadjustment. Adjust the steering gear.
7. Sticky or plugged steering gear valve. Repair or replace steering
gear
valve.
8. Entry of air in the power steering system. Bleed the system.
Momentary Increase In 1. High internal leakage. Repair steering gear.
Effort When Turning
2. Power steering fluid level low. Replenish
fluid.
Wheel
Fast To Right or
Left
Steering
Wheel Surges 1. Insufficient pump pressure. Repair pump assembly.
or Jerks
When Turning 2. Sticky steering gear valve. Repair or replace steering
Especially During gear.
Parking
3. Power steering fluid level low. Replenish
fluid.
Excessive Wheel Kick 1. Air in system. Bleed hydraulic system.
Back
or Loose Steering 2. Tie rod end loose. Tighten tie rod end.
3. Wheel bearing worn. Replace wheel bearing.
Hard Steering
or Lack 1. Sticky steering gear valve. Repair or replace steering
or Power Assist gear valve.
2. Insufficient pump pressure.
Repair pump assembly.
3. Excessive internal pump leakage. Repair
pump assembly.
4. Excessive internal steering gear leakage. Repair steering gear
5. Power steering fluid level low. Replenish
fluid.

3-10 DIAGNOSIS
RADIAL TIRE WADDLE (Fig. 3-4)
Fig. 3-4
Waddle is side-to-side
movement at the front and/or
rear of the car. It can be caused by the steel belt not
being straight within the tire, or by excessive lateral
runout of the tire or wheel. It is most noticeable at low
speed, about 8 to 48 km/h (5 to 30 mph). It may also
cause
rough ride at 80 to 113 km/h (50 to 70 mph).
The car can be road tested
to see which end of the car
has
the faulty tire. If the tire causing the waddle is on
the rear, the rear end
of the car will "waddle". From
the
driver's seat, it feels as if someone is pushing on
the side
of the car.
If the faulty tire is on the front, the waddle is more
easily seen. The front sheet metal appears to be
moving back and forth. It feels as if the driver's seat
is
the pivot point in the car.
Another more time-consuming method of
determining the faulty tire is substituting tire and
wheel assemblies
that are known to be good. Follow
these steps:
1. Drive the car to determine if the waddle is
coming from the front or rear.
2. Install tire and wheel assemblies known to be
good (from a similar car) in place ofthose on the
end
of the car which is waddling. If the waddle
cannot be isolated to front or rear, start with the
rear tires.
3. Road test again. If improvement is noted, install
the original tire and wheel assemblies one at a
time until the faulty tire is found. If no
improvement is noted, install tires known to be
good in place of all four. Then, install the originals
one at a
time until the faulty tire is found.
RADIAL TIRE LEAD/PULL (Fig. 3-5)
"Lead/Pull" is vehicle deviation from a straight path,
on a level road
with no pressure on the steering
wheel.
Lead is usually caused by:
1. Poorly manufactured radial tires.
2. Uneven brake adjustment.
3. Wheel alignment.
The
way in which a tire is built can produce lead in a
car.
An example of this is placement of the belt. Off­
center belts on radial tires can cause the tire to
develop a side force while rolling straight down the
road and the tire will tend to roll like a cone.
The
"Radial Tire Lead/Pull Correction" chart (Fig. 3-5)
should be used to make sure that front wheel
alignment is not mistaken for tire lead.
Rear
tires will not cause lead/pull.
II

TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT
1. To adjust the toe-in angle, loosen the lock nuts on
the outer track rods and turn the outer track rods.
Turn both rods the same amount, to keep the
steering
wheel centered (Fig. 3A-1 0).
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS
Toe-in mm (in) I 0 ± 2 (0 ± 0.08)
2. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque.
~~~ Torque N·m (lb·ft) 118 (87)
Outer track rod
Lock nut
Fig. 3A-10
MAXIMUM STEERING ANGLE
ADJUSTMENT
The maximum steering angle of the front wheels can
be adjusted
with the stopper bolts under the frame side
members (Fig. 3A-11 ).
1. Position each front wheel on the turning radius
gauge in a straight-ahead position.
2. Set the parking brake firmly.
3. Adjust the inside wheel angle of each side with the
stopper
bolts.
NOTE: • The maximum protruding length (L) of
stopper bolt from the lock nut should be
10 mm or less (Fig. 3A-12)
4. Similarly adjust the inside wheel angle of the other
side
with stopper bolt.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATION
Inside wheel
34° ~~:
Outside wheel 32°
NOTE:
Maximum steering angles should be set after adjusting
front wheel alignment.
FRONT END ALIGNMENT 3A-5
5. If the stopper between the lower link end and the
knuckle comes ahead of the stopper bolt (Fig. 3A-
13), adjust the stopper
bolt so that inner stopper
bolt touches the drop arm (relay lever).
6. Tighten the lock nut to the specified torque.
~~~ Torque N·m (lb·ft) 23 (17)
Fig. 3A-11
L
Stopper bolt Lock nut
Fig. 3A-12
Stopper
Fig. 3A-13

FRONT SUSPENSION 3C-7
KNUCKLE
2
~,
Removal steps 1. Torsion bar 6. Oil seal Installation steps 2.
Back plate 7. Thrust washer To install, follow the removal steps in the reverse order. 3. Lower ball joint 8. Needle bearing
4. Upper
ball joint 9. Knuckle
5. Knuckle assembly
Fig. 3C-13
1••1 REMOVAL
Preparation: • Raise the vehicle and support the
frame
with suitable safety stands.
• Remove wheel and tire assembly.
Refer to
"Wheels and Tires" in
section
3E.
• Remove the brake caliper. Refer
to"Brakes" in section 5.
• Remove the hub assembly. Refer to
"Hub and Disk" in section 4C.
• Remove outer track rod from the
knuckle. Refer to
"Steering
Linkage" in section 3B3.
• Remove the speed sensor (If
equipped with antilock brake
system)
from the knuckle. 1.
Torsion bar
• Loosen
torsion bar by height control arm adjust
bolt.
• Refer to "Torsion bar" in this section.
2. Back plate
3. Lower ball joint (Fig. 3C-14)
1®.1 Remover: J-291 07
'\f7 CAUTION:
'(! Be careful not to break the ball joint boot.
4. Upper ball joint (Fig. 3C-15)
1®.1 Remover: J-36831
'\f7 CAUTION:
'(! Be careful not to break the ball joint boot.
5. Knuckle assembly

3C-1 0 FRONT SUSPENSION
UPPER CONTROL ARM
3
V' , I
Fig. 3C-19
1••1 REMOVAL
Preparation: • Raise the vehicle and support the
frame
with suitable safety stands.
• Remove wheel and tire assembly.
Refer
to "Wheels and Tires" in
section
3E.
• Remove the brake caliper and
disconnect brake pipe. Refer
to
"Brakes" in section 5.
• Support lower control arm with a
jack.
1. Speed sensor cable (If equipped with antilock
brake system)
2.
Nut and cotter pin (Fig. 3C-20)
• Remove the upper ball joint from the knuckle.
1®.1 Remover: J-36831
Removal steps 1. Speed sensor cable
(If equipped with anti lock
brake system)
2. Nut and cotter pin 3. Upper ball joint 4. Bolt and plate 5. Nut assembly 6. Camber shims
7. Caster shims
8.
Upper control arm assembly
9. Nut 10. Plate 11. Bushing
12. Fulcrum pin
Installation steps To install, follow the removal steps in the reverse order.
Fig. 3C-20
Ill

3C-16 FRONT SUSPENSION
UPPER BALL JOINT
1
Fig. 3C-36
E) REMOVAL
Preparation: • Raise the vehicle and support the
frame with
suitable safety stands.
• Remove the speed sensor from the
knuckle
(If equipped with antilock
brake system).
1. Nut and cotter pin
• Remove the upper ball joint from the knuckle
(Fig. 3C-37).
l®..l Remover: J-36831
\fl CAUTION:
VI Be careful not to break the ball joint boot.
2.
Bolt and washer
3. Upper ball joint
Removal steps
1. Nut and cotter pin
2. Bolt and nut
3. Upper ball joint
Installation steps
To install, follow the removal
steps in the reverse order.
Fig. 3C-37

REAR SUSPENSION 30-3
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
COIL SPRING
3
Removal steps
1. Parking brake cable bracket 2. Stabilizer bar
3. Shock absorber
4. Insulator 5. Coil spring
Installation steps
To install,
follow the removal
steps in the reverse order.
Fig. 30-2
E) REMOVAL
Preparation: • Raise the vehicle and support the
frame
with suitable safety stands.
• Support the rear axle case with a
jack.
1. Parking brake cable bracket
• Remove the parking brake cable from the
trailing link.
2. Stabilizer bar
• Disconnect the stabilizer bar at the stabilizer
link.
3. Shock absorber
• Remove the shock absorber from the axle case.
4. Insulator
5. Coil spring
• Remove the insulator and coil spring while
lowering
the rear axle case.
U7 CAUTION:
VI Be sure not to let the brake hose, parking brake
cable, and breather hose extend to their full
length.
(L!] INSPECTION AND REPAIR
Make necessary correction or parts replacement if
wear, damage, corrosion or any other abnormal
condition are found through inspection.
• Coil spring
• Insulator

30-4 REAR SUSPENSION
I••IINSTALLATION
5. Coil spring
• Make surethatthecoil spring is installed in the
proper position (Fig. 30-3).
1~41 • Fit the end of the coil spring to the coil spring
seat and
mount the coil spring on the rear axle
case (Fig. 30-4).
UP
t
Paint
SWB LWB
Fig. 30-3
Fig. 30-4
4. Insulator
• Install the insulator on the coil spring. Jack up
the axle case gently with the top of the coil
spring set to the spring seat on the frame side
(Fig.
30-5).
Fig. 30-5
3. Shock absorber
• Tighten the nut lightly, and retighten to the
specified
torque after the vehicle is at curb
height.
NOTE:
When mounting shock absorber, be sure not to use
grease on
bushings or any other nearby part.
~~~ Torque N·m (lb.ft) I 78 (58)
2. Stabilizer bar
~~~ Torque N·m (lb·ft) I 50 (37)
1. Parking brake cable bracket
•