light ISUZU TROOPER 1995 Owner's Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: ISUZU, Model Year: 1995, Model line: TROOPER, Model: ISUZU TROOPER 1995Pages: 1928
Page 245 of 1928

REAR AXLE 48-3
DIAGNOSIS OF REAR AXLE NOISE
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually
originate from other sources such as tires,
road surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission,
muffler,
or body drumming. Investigate to find the
source
ofthe noise before disassembling the rear axle.
Rear axles,
like any other mechanical device, are not
absolutely quiet but should be considered quiet unless
some abnormal noise is present.
To make a systematic check
for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct
level, and then drive the vehicle far enough to
thoroughly warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run
the engine speed
slowly up and down to
determine if the noise is caused by exhaust,
muffler noise, or other engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces;
axle noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to
344
kPa (50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect
noise caused by the rear
axle.
Rear axle nose usually stops when coasting at
speeds under
48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire
noise continues
with a lower tone. Rear axle noise
usually changes when comparing pull and coast,
but tire noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear
axle noise
by noting
if the noise changes with various
speeds
or sudden acceleration and deceleration.
Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these
conditions,
while tire noise remains constant and
is more pronounced at speeds
of 32 to 48 km/h
(20 to 30 mph). Further check for tire noise by
driving the vehicle
over smooth pavements or dirt
roads (not gravel) with the tires at normal
pressure.
If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause
noise
which may be confused with rear axle
noise; however, front wheel bearing noise does
not change when comparing drive and coast.
Light application
of the brake while holding
vehicle speed steady
will often cause wheel
bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel bearings
may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them
or by shaking the
wheels
to determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen
out rear axle noise when
correctly installed. Check to see that there is no
link or rod loosened or metal-to-metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal-to-metal contact
between the
floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle,
the type of axle noise should be determined, in order to
make any necessary repairs.
GEAR NOISE
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to
55 mph) under four driving conditions.
1. In drive under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle
from driving the engine while the vehicle slows
down gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the
throttle closed. The gear noise is
usually more
noticeable between 48 and 64
km/h (30 and 40
mph) and 80 and 89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
BEARING NOISE
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or
grating sound, rather than the whine typical of gear
noise. Bearing noise frequently
"wow-wows" at
bearing rpm, indicating a bad pinion
or rear axle side
bearing. This noise can
be confused with rear wheel
bearing noise.
REAR WHEEL BEARING NOISE
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in the neutral.
Noise may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear
wheels, spin them by hand and
listen for noise at the
hubs. Replace any faulty
wheel bearings.
KNOCK AT LOW SPEEDS
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal
joints or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is
worn oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or
cage and side gears as required.
BACKLASH CLUNK
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can
be caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn
cage, excessive clearance between the axle and the
side gear splines, excessive clearance between the
side gear hub and the counterbore in the cage,
worn
pinion and side gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or
excessive drive pinion and ring gear backlash.
Remove
worn parts and replace as required. Select
close-fitting parts when possible. Adjust pinion and
ring gear backlash.
Page 250 of 1928

48 - 8 REAR AXLE
6. Nut
• Remove the bearing holder mounting nuts.
7. Axle shaft assembly
NOTE:
• Be sure not to damage the oil seal.
8. Snap ring
9. Retainer
• Using a special tool and press, remove
together with the bearing holder (Fig. 4B-8).
1 ®I Bearing remover: J-39211
J-39211
Fig. 4B-8
10. Bearing
11. Bearing
holder
12. Back plate
13. Wheel pin (Fig. 4B-9)
1®.1 • Remove the wheel pins using a special tool.
Remover: J-6627-A
J-6627-A
Fig. 4B-9
I L•l INSPECTION AND REPAIR
Make necessary correction or parts replacement if
wear, corrosion or any other abnormal condition are
found through inspection.
Visual check
Check the following parts for wear, damage, noise or
any other abnormal conditions.
• Axle shaft
• Bearing
AXLE SHAFT
• When checking the axle shaft, pay special
attention to the splined portions and replace
the shaft if distortion or step wear is
noticeable. Correct slight step wear with a
grinder (Fig. 4B-10).
Fig. 4B-10
~~~ Axle shaft run-out (Fig. 4B-11)
Limit mm(in) 1.0 (0.039)
350 mm (13.78 in)
Fig. 4B-11
•
Page 271 of 1928

(j) @
Fig. 48-71
• Thrust washer
® Sliding surface with the side gear or case
@ Peripheral groove of the side gear
Repair
light nicks and burrs using an oil stone.
Fig. 48-72
• Case
G)) Contact surface with the spring disc
@ Inner groove of the differential cage B
Repair
light nicks and burrs using an oil stone.
1~
Fig. 48-73
REAR AXLE 48-29
Fig. 48-74
rfiil Deformation of the friction disc & plate (Fig. 48-
~75)
Limit mm (in) I 0.08 (0.003)
Fig. 48-75
1@1 Wear of the friction plate & disc (Fig. 48-76)
Limit (A -B) mm (in) I 0.1 (0.004)
Remarks:
A=lnner or outer projections
B=Siiding surface subjected to abrasion
Fig. 48-76
Page 311 of 1928

7.
Fig. 4C-90
Lock washer and lock screw (Fig. 4C-91}
• Turn the side with larger diameter of the
tapered bore
to the vehicle outer side, and
attach the washer.
If the bolt holes in the lock plate are not aligned
with the corresponding holes in the nut, rotate
the
lock plate.
If
the bolt holes are still out of alignment, turn in
the
nut just enough to obtain alignment. Install
the lock screw so its head is lower than the
surface
of the washer .
•
Fig. 4C-91
6. Inner cam assembly
1) Before installation, make sure the transfer
lever is still in "2H" position.
1!1::1 2) Clean the flange surface of the hub, the thread
Lil holes, the surface of the lock washer and the
spline portion of the axle shaft (Fig. 4C-92).
FRONT DRIVING AXLE 4C-33
Fig. 4C-92
Install the inner cam by aligning the key way
with the groove in the knuckle (Fig. 4C-93).
NOTE:
The cam gear must be facing out.
Fig. 4C-93
• If it is difficult to install the inner cam, use the
tool (installer) and a plastic hammer or the
equivalent (Fig. 4C-94).
Install the special tool.
Use the plastic hammer to lightly tap around
the
special tool "A" surface as shown in the
illustration.
Installer:
J-38194
NOTE:
Do not strike the inner cam gear teeth with the
plastic hammer.
Page 321 of 1928

HYDRAULIC BRAKES SA-1
BRAKES
w CAUTION:
• All
brake attaching fasteners are an important attaching part in that they could affect performance of vital
parts and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense. They must be replaced with one of the same
part
number or with an equivalent part if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of
lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure
proper retention
of these parts.
CONTENTS
Hydraulic Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Section SA
Brake Booster System ........................................................ Section 5A1
Disc Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Section 5A2
Rear
Wheel Antilock Brake System (RWAL) .................................... Section 5A3
4-Wheel Antilock Brake System (ABS) ......................................... Section 5A4
Parking Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Section 5C
SECTION 5A
HYDRAULIC BRAKES
CONTENTS
Brake System Diagnosis ................ SA-2
Road
Testing the Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-2
Brake
Fluid Leaks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-2
Warning Light Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-2
Antilock Brake System (RWAL or ABS) . SA- 2
Diagnosis of Brake System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-3
On-Vehicle Service .................... SA- S
Filling Master Cylinder Reservoir . . . . . . . SA-S
Deterioration of Brake Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . SA-S
Leakage
of Brake Fluid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-S
Bleeding Brake Hydraulic System . . . . . . SA-S
Flushing Brake Hydraulic System . . . . . . SA-6
Brake Pipes
and Hoses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-6
Brake Hose
Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-6
Brake Hose
Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-7
Brake Pipe
Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-8
Combination Valve/P & B Valve . . . . . . . SA-9
Valve Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-1 0
Inspection of Brake Pad Lining . . . . . . . . SA-11
Inspection of Brake Rotors . . . . . . . . . . . . SA-11
Brake Pedal Assembly .................. SA-13 •
Checking Pedal Height ................ SA-13
Checking Pedal Travel ................ SA-13
Brake
Pedal Replacement ............. SA-14
Stoplight Switch Replacement ......... SA-1S
Master Cylinder Assembly ............... SA-16
General Description .................. SA-16
On-Vehicle Service ................... SA-17
Unit Repair .......................... SA-19
Main Data and Specifications ............ SA-21
General Specifications ................ SA-21
Torque Specifications ................ SA-21
Special Tools .......................... SA-22
Page 322 of 1928

SA-2 HYDRAULIC BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
ROAD TESTING THE BRAKES
Brake Test
Brakes should be tested on a dry, clean, reasonably
smooth and
level roadway. A true test of brake
performance cannot be made
if the roadway is
wet, greasy
or covered with loose dirt so that all
tires do not grip the road equally. Testing will also
be adversely affected if the roadway is crowned so
as to throw the weight of the vehicle toward
wheels on one side or if the roadway is so rough
that wheels tend to bounce. Test the brakes at dif
ferent vehicle speeds with both light and heavy
pedal pressure; however, avoid locking the wheels
and sliding the tires. Locked wheels and sliding
tires do not indicate brake efficiency, since heavily
braked but turning wheels will stop the vehicle in
less distance than locked wheels. More tire-to-road
friction is present
with a heavily braked turning tire
then
with a sliding tire.
The standard brake system is designed and
balanced
to avoid locking the wheels except at very high
deceleration
levels.
It
is designed this way because the shortest stopping
distance and best
control is achieved without brake
lock-up.
Because of high deceleration capability, a firmer pedal
may be felt at higher deceleration levels.
External Conditions That Affect Brake
Performance
1.
2.
3.
Tires: Tires having unequal contact and grip on
the road
will cause unequal braking. Tires must
be equally inflated, identical in size, and the tread
pattern
of right and left tires must be approxi
mately equal.
Vehicle loading:
A heavily loaded vehicle requires
more braking effort.
Wheel Alignment: Misalignment of the wheels,
particularly
in regard to excessive camber and
caster,
will cause the brakes to pull to one side.
BRAKE FLUID LEAKS
With engine running at idle and the transmission in
"Neutral", depress the brake pedal and hold a constant
foot pressure on the pedal. If pedal gradually falls
away with the constant pressure, the hydraulic system
may be leaking.
Check the master cylinder fluid level. While a slight
drop in reservoir level will result from normal lining
wear, an abnormally low level in reservoir indicates a
leak in the system. The hydraulic system may be
leaking internally as well as externally. Refer to
"Master Cylinder Inspection". Also, the system may
appear
to pass this test but still have slight leakage. If
fluid level
is normal, check the vacuum booster
push rod
length. If an incorrect length push rod is
found, adjust
or replace the push rod. Check the
brake
pedal travel and the parking brake adjust
ment.
When checking the
fluid level, the master cylinder fluid
level
may be low from the "MAX" mark if the front and
rear
linings are worn. This is not abnormal.
WARNING LIGHT OPERATION
When the ignition switch is in the START position,
the
"BRAKE" warning light should glow and go off
when the ignition switch returns to the ON position.
The
following conditions will activate the "BRAKE"
light:
1. Parking brake applied. The light should be on
whenever the parking brake is applied and the
ignition switch is on.
2. Low fluid level. A low fluid level in the master
cylinder will turn the "BRAKE" light on (Except
Rear
Wheel Antilock Brake System (RWAL)
model).
3. During engine cranking the "BRAKE" light
should
remain on. This notifies the driver that
the warning circuit is operating properly.
4. In the event of a front or rear system malfunc
tion (RWAL model only).
5. In the event of RWAL malfunction (RWAL
model only. Refer to Section 5A3).
ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (RWAL or
ABS}
Refer to Section 5A3 or 5A4 for inspection and di
agnosis procedure of the hydraulic unit.
..
Page 323 of 1928

HYDRAULIC BRAKES 5A-3
DIAGNOSIS OF BRAKE SYSTEM
Condition
Possible Cause Correction
Brake
Pull 1. Tire inflation pressures unequal. 1. Adjust
2. Front wheel alignment incorrect. 2. Adjust
3. Unmatched tires on same axle. 3. Tires with approx. the same amount of
tread should be used on the same axle.
4. Restricted brake pipes or hoses. 4. Check for soft hoses and damaged
lines. Replace with new hoses and new
double-walled steel brake piping.
5. Water or oil on brake pads. 5. Clean or replace.
6. Brake pads hardened. 6. Replace.
7. Brake pads worn excessively. 7. Replace.
8. Brake rotor worn or scored. 8. Grind or replace.
9. Disc brake caliper malfunctioning. 9. Clean or replace.
10. Front hub bearing preload incorrect. 10. Adjust or replace.
11. Loose suspension parts. 11. Check all suspension mountings.
12. Loose
calipers. 12. Check and tighten bolts to specifi-
cations.
Brake 1. Excessive lateral runout. 1. Check per instructions.
Roughness-or If not within specifications, replace or
Chatter machine the rotor.
(Pulsates) 2. Parallelism not within specifications. 2. Check per instructions.
If not within specifications, replace or
machine the rotor.
3. Wheel bearings not adjusted. 3. Adjust wheel bearings to correct
specifications.
4. Pad reversed (steel against iron). 4. Replace brake pad and machine rotor
to within specifications.
Excessive Pedal 1. Malfunctioning vacuum booster. 1. Check vacuum booster operation and
Effort repair, if necessary.
2. Partial system failure. 2. Check front and rear brake system for
failure and repair. Also, check brake
warning
light. If a failed system
is
found, the
light should indicate a
failure.
3. Excessively worn pad. 3. Check and replace pads in sets.
4. Piston in caliper stuck or sluggish. 4. Remove caliper and rebuild.
5. Fading brakes due to incorrect pad. 5. Remove and replace with original
equipment pad or equivalent.
6. Vacuum leak to vacuum booster. 4. Check for ruptured or loose hose.
7. Check direction of check valve within 5. Correct vacuum hose direction.
vacuum hose.
8. Grease on the brake pads. 6. Replace or clean.
Excessive Brake 1. Air in hydraulic circuit. 1. Bleed hydraulic circuit.
Pedal Travel 2. Level of brake fluid in reservoir too low. 2. Replenish brake fluid reservoir to speci-
fied
level and bleed hydraulic circuit as
necessary.
3. Master cylinder push rod clearance ex-3. Adjust.
cessive.
4. Leakage in hydraulic system. 4. Correct or replace defective parts.
Page 324 of 1928

SA-4 HYDRAULIC BRAKES
Condition Possible Cause Correction
Brake Drag
1. Master cylinder pistons not returning 1. Adjust stop light switch and vacuum
correctly. booster operating rod. If necessary,
rebuild.
2. Restricted brake pipes or hoses. 2. Check for soft hoses or damaged pipes,
and
replace with new hoses and new
double-walled steel brake piping.
3. Parking brake maladjusted. 3. Adjust.
4. Parking brake lining clearance 4. Adjust
insufficient.
5. Brake pedal free play insufficient. 5. Adjust brake pedal height or power
cylinder operating rod.
6. Piston in master cylinder sticking. 6. Replace.
7. Piston in disc brake caliper sticking. 7. Replace piston seals.
8. Brake pads sticking in caliper. 8. Clean.
9. Return spring weakened. 9. Replace.
10. Praking brake binding. 10. Overhaul parking brakes and correct.
11. Front hub bearing preload incorrect. 11.
Adjust or replace.
12. Parking brake shoes not returning. 12.
Correct or replace brake back plate and
brake shoe
as necessary.
13. Obstructions in hydraulic circuit. 13. Clean.
14. Rotor warped excessively. 14.
Grind or replace.
15. Rear brake drum distorted. 15.
Grind or replace.
16. Check valve; vacuum hose faulty. 16. Replace.
17. Parking cable sticking. 17. Clean or replace.
Grabbing
or 1. Malfunctioning vacuum booster. 1. Check operation and correct as
Uneven Braking necessary.
Action
(All 2. Binding brake pedal mechanism. 2. Check and lubricate, if necessary.
conditions
3. Corroded caliper assembly. 3. Clean and lubricate.
listed
under
"Pulls")
Brake Noisy 1 . Brake pads worn. 1. Replace.
2. Brake pads hardened. 2. Replace.
3. Brake pads in poor contact with rotor. 3. Correct.
4. Brake disc(s) warped, worn or 4. Grind or replace.
damaged.
5. Disc brake anti-squeak shims fatigued. 5. Replace.
6. Front hub bearings loose or preload is 6. Adjust or replace.
incorrect.
7. Brake disc rusted. 7. Grind or replace.
Poor Brake 1. Master cylinder faulty. 1. Correct or replace.
Action 2. Vacuum booster faulty. 2. Correct or replace.
3. Level of brake fluid in reservoir too 3. Replenish and bleed.
low.
4. Air in hydraulic circuit. 4. Bleed.
5. Disc brake caliper faulty. 5. Clean or replace.
6. Water or oil on brake pads. 6. Clean or replace.
7. Brake pads in poor contact with rotor. 7. Correct.
8. Brake pads worn. 8. Replace.
9. Brake disc rusted. 9. Grind or replace.
10. Check valve in vacuum hose faulty. 10. Correct or replace.
•
Page 326 of 1928

5A-6 HYDRAULIC BRAKES
NOTE:
Do not allow the fluid level in the reservoir to go below
the half-way mark.
12. Reconnect the brake pipe
(j) to the master
cylinder and tighten the pipe.
13. Depress the brake pedal
slowly once and hold it
depressed.
14. Loosen the rear wheel brake pipe (j) at the master
cylinder (Fig. 5A-1).
15. Retighten the brake pipe, then release the brake
pedal
slowly.
16. Repeat steps 13 through 15 until no air comes out
from the port when the brake pipe is loosened.
NOTE:
Be very careful not to allow the brake fluid to come in
contact
with painted surfaces.
17. Bleed the air from the front wheel brake pipe
connection
® by repeating steps 7 through 16
(Fig.
5A-1 ).
Fig. 5A-1
Bleeding the caliper
18. Bleed the air from each wheel in the order listed
below.
• Right rear caliper
• Left rear caliper
• Right front caliper
• Left front caliper
If brake fluid does not come out or brake fluid does
not remain in the master cylinder while bleeding
each
caliper in the order listed above, the master
cylinder may contain air in its bore. First bleed the
master cylinder
as described in step 7 through 17.
19.
Place the proper size box end wrench over the
bleeder screw.
20. Cover the bleeder screw with a transparent tube,
and submerge the free end
of the transparent
tube in a transparent container containing brake
fluid.
21. Pump the brake pedal slowly three (3) times
(once/sec), then
hold it depressed.
22. Loose the bleeder screw until fluid flows through
the tube.
23. Retighten the bleeder screw.
24. Release the brake pedal slowly.
25. Repeat step 21 through 24 until the air is com
pletely removed.
It may be necessary to repeat
the bleeding procedure
10 or more times for front
wheels and 15 or more times for rear wheels.
26. Go to the next wheel in the sequence after each
wheel is bled.
Be sure to monitor reservoir fluid
level.
27. Depress the brake pedal to check if you feel
"sponginess" after the air has been removed from
all wheel cylinders and calipers. If the pedal feels
"spongy", the entire bleeding procedure must be
repeated.
28. After the bleeding operation is completed on each
individual wheel, check the level
of brake fluid in
the reservoir and replenish up to the
"MAX" level
if necessary.
29. Attach the reservoir cap.
• If the diaphragm inside the cap is deformed,
reform
it and install.
30. Stop the engine.
FLUSHING BRAKE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
It is recommended that the entire hydraulic system be
thoroughly flushed with clean brake fluid whenever
new parts are
installed in the hydraulic system.
Approximately one quart
of fluid is required to flush the
hydraulic system.
The system
must be flushed if there is any doubt as to
the grade
of fluid in the system or iffluid has been used
which contains the
slightest trace of mineral oil. All
rubber parts that have been subjected to a con
taminated fluid
must be replaced.
BRAKE PIPES AND HOSES
The hydraulic brake system components are inter
connected
by special steel piping and flexible hoses.
Flexible hoses are used between the frame and the
front calipers, the frame and rear axle case and the rear
axle and the rear calipers.
When the hydraulic pipes have been disconnected
for
any reason, the brake system must be bled after
reconnecting the pipe; refer to
"Bleeding the Brake
Hydraulic
System" in this section.
BRAKE HOSE INSPECTION
The brake hoses should be inspected at least twice a
year. The brake hose assembly should
be checked for
road hazard, cracks and chafing ofthe outer cover, and
for leaks and blisters. Inspect for proper routing and
mounting
of the hose. A brake hose that rubs on
suspension components
will wear and eventually fail.
A light and mirror may be needed for an adequate
inspection.
If any of the above conditions are observed
on the brake hose, adjust
or replace the hose as
necessary.
\fl CAUTION:
'V Never allow brake components such as calipers
to hang from the brake hoses, as damage to the
hoses may occur.
Page 329 of 1928

COMBINATION VALVE/P & B
(PROPORTIONING AND BYPASS) VALVE
The combination valve/P & B valve contains two
sections, each serving a different function.
The proportioning section
of the combination valve/
P & B valve proportions outlet pressure to the rear
brakes after a predetermined rear
input pressure has
been reached. This is done to prevent rear
wheel lock
up on the vehicles with light rear wheel loads.
The valve has a By-pass feature which assures full
system pressure to the rear brakes in the event of a
front brake system malfunction, also full front pressure
is retained in the event
of rear brake malfunction.
HYDRAULIC BRAKES 5A 9
The combination valve has a pressure differential
warning switch which is designed to constantly
compare front and rear brake pressure
from the
master
cylinder and turn on the brake system warning
light on the instrument panel in the event of a front or
rear system malfunction. The valve and switch are so
designed that the switch
will latch in the "warning"
position once a malfunction has occurred. The only
way the light can be turned off is to repair the
malfunction and
apply a pedal force required to
develop line pressure. The combination valve/P & B
valve is not repairable and must be replaced as a
complete assembly.
P&B valve
(Antilock brake system model only)
Master cylinder (Primary)
Combination valve (Rear wheel antilock model only)
Pressure differential warning switch
Master
cylinder (Secondary)
..(> ..(> Master cylinder (Secondary) Master
cylinder
(Primary)
..(> ..(>
Front brake
Rear brake
Combination Valve
Electrical Circuit Test (RWAL
model
Fig. 5A-4
only)
1.
2.
3.
Disconnect the wmng connector at the
combination
valve (Fig. 5A-5).
• Connect a jumper wire from the harness to
ground.
Turn the ignition key to
"ON".
•
The warning light should come on.
• If the light will not come on, check the bulb. If
the bulb is good, refer to Chassis Electrical
(Sec.
8) for further diagnosis.
Turn the ignition off.
• Disconnect jumper wire and connect the
harness to the switch
terminal.
Combination Valve (RWAL model only)
Warning
Switch Test
1. Raise the vehicle.
• Support
with suitable safety stands.
2. Attach a hose to a rear brake bleeder screw.
• Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a
container
partially filled with clean brake fluid.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
¢ Front RH brake
Front LH brake
Rear brake
• Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is full.
Turn the ignition key to "ON".
• Open
the bleeder screw while a helper applies
moderate pressure to the brake pedal.
•
The warning light should come on.
• Close the bleeder screw before the helper
releases
the brake pedal.
Reapply the brake pedal with moderate to heavy
pressure.
• The light should go out.
Attach a hose
to a front brake bleeder screw.
• Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a
container
partially filled with clean brake fluid.
• Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is full.
Turn the ignition key to "ON".
• Open
the bleeder screw while a helper applies
moderate pressure to the brake pedal.
•
The warning light should come on.
• Close the bleeder screw before the helper
releases
the brake pedal.
Reapply
the brake pedal with moderate to heavy
pressure.
• The light should go out.