engine ISUZU TROOPER 1995 Service Manual
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Page 220 of 1928

3F4-10 SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN
LOCK CYLINDER REPLACEMENT
5
i
;;
9 ®
Fig. 3F4-23
E) REMOVAL
4
3
1
Removal steps
1. Front console assembly
2. Steering lower cover
3.1nflator module
4. Steering wheel
5. Steering column cover
6. Combination switch and
SRS coil assembly
7. Snap ring
8. Cushion rubber
9. Shift lock cable (for AfT)
10. Lock cylinder assembly
Installation steps
To install, follow the removal
steps in the reverse order.
• Disconnect the yellow 2way SRS connector
located behind the inflator module.
Preparation:
• Turn the steering wheel so that the
vehicle's wheels are
pointing
straight ahead.
4. Steering wheel
• Turn the ignition switch to "LOCK".
•
Disconnect the battery"-" terminal
cable, and wait at least 5 minutes.
• Disconnect the yellow 3way SRS
connector located under the steering
column.
• Apply a setting mark across the steering
wheel and
shaft so parts can be reassembled
in
their original position (Fig. 3F4-24)
• Use special tool. Remove the steering wheel.
Move the tires to the straight ahead position
before removing the steering wheel (Fig. 3F4-
25).
W CAUTION: 1®.1 Steering wheel remover: J-29752
The wheels
of the vehicle must be straight ahead
and the steering
column in the "LOCK" position
before disconnecting the steering wheel. Failure
Setting mark
to do so will cause the coil assembly to become
uncentered
which will cause damage to the coil
assembly.
1.
Front console assembly
• Remove the transmission (for Mff) and
transfer
control lever knob.
• Disconnect the wiring harness connectors.
2. Steering lower cover
• Remove the engine hood opening lever.
3. SRS module
• Loosen the inflator module fixing bolt from behind
the steering wheel assembly using a
TORXe driver
or equivalent until the inflator module can be
released from steering assembly. Fig.
3F4-24
•
Page 222 of 1928

3F4 -12 SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN
Alignment mark
Fig. 3F4-28
\fCAUTION:
When turning the SRS coil clockwise to full, stop
turning if resistance is felt. Forced further turning
may damage to the cable in the SRS coil.
5. Steering column cover
• When installing the steering column cover, be
sure
to wire (through each harness) as
illustrated so that the harnesses starter
switch,
combination switch and SRS coil may
not catch wiring (Fig. 3F4-29).
Starter switch
harness
Combination
switch harness
Inflator module
harness
4. Steering wheel
Fig. 3F4-29
• Align the setting marks made when re
moving.
\fCAUTION:
Never apply force to the steering wheel in
direction
of the shaft by using a hammer or other
impacttools in an attemptto remove the steering
wheel. The steering shaft is designed as an
energy absorbing unit.
• Tighten the steering wheel fixing nut to the
specified torque.
~~~ Torque N·m (lb-ft) 34 (25)
3. Inflator module
• Support the module and carefully connect the
module connector.
NOTE:
Pass the lead wire through the tabs on the plastic
cover (wire protector) of inflator to prevent lead
wire from being pinched.
• Secure the module with one bolt to relieve
weight on the connector wire.
• Tighten fixing bolts to specified sequence as
figure (Fig. 3F4-30).
1~1 Torque N·m (lb-in) 8 (69)
Fig.
3F4-30
2. Steering lower cover
• Install the engine hood opening lever.
1. Front console assembly
• Connect the wiring harness connectors.
• Install the transmission (for Mff) and transfer
control lever knob.
• Connect the yellow 3way SRS connector located
under the steering column.
• Connect the battery"-" terminal cable.
SYSTEM INSPECTION
• Set ignition to "ON" while watching warning
light.
•
Light should flash 7 times and then go off. If
lamp does not operate correctly, refer to
Section 9J.
Page 224 of 1928

3F4-14 SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN
EJREMOVAL
Preparation: • Turn the steering wheel so that the
vehicle's
wheels are pointing straight
ahead.
• Turn the ignition switch to "LOCK".
•
Disconnect the battery "-" terminal
cable,
and wait at least 5 minutes.
• Disconnect the yellow 3way SRS
connector located under the steering
column.
wcAUTION:
The wheel of the vehicle must be straight ahead
and the steering
column in the "LOCK• position
before disconnecting the steering
column from
the steering gear.
Failure to do so will cause the SRS coil assembly
to become uncentered which will cause damage
to the SRS coil assembly.
1. Front console assembly
• Disconnect the transmission (for MfT) and
transfer
control lever knob.
• Disconnect the wiring harness connectors.
2. Steering lower cover
• Remove the engine hood opening lever.
3. Driver knee bolster (reinforcement)
4. Inflator module (Fig.3F4-32)
• Loosen the inflator module fixing bolt from behind
the steering
wheel assembly using a TORX® driver
or
equivalent until the inflator module can be
released from steering assembly.
•
Disconnect the yellow 2way SRS connector
located behind the inflator module.
Fig. 3F4-32
\V WARNING
THE INFLATOR MODULE SHOULD ALWAYS BE
CARRIED WITH THE URETHANE COVER AWAY
FROM YOUR BODY AND SHOULD ALWAYS BE
LAID ON A FLAT SURFACE WITH THE URE
THANE SIDE UP. THIS IS NECESSARY BE
CAUSE A FREE SPACE IS PROVIDED TO ALLOW
THE AIR CUSHION TO EXPAND IN THE UN
LIKELY EVENT OF ACCIDENTAL DEPLOYMENT.
OTHERWISE, PERSONALINJURYMAYRESULT
(FIG.3F4-33).
Fig. 3F4-33
5. Steering wheel
• Apply a setting mark across the steering
wheel and shaft so parts can be reassembled
in their original position (Fig. 3F4-34)
• Use special tool. Remove the steering wheel.
move the tires to the straight ahead position
before removing the steering
wheel (Fig. 3F4-
35).
1®.1 Steering wheel remover: J-29752
Setting mark
Fig. 3F4-34
..
Page 226 of 1928

3F4-16 SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM (SRS) STEERING WHEEL & COLUMN
Alignment mark
Fig. 3F4-38
\fCAUTION:
When turning the SRS coil clockwise to full, stop
turning if resistance is felt. Forced furtherturning
may damage to the cable in the SRS coil.
6. Steering column cover
• When installing the steering column cover, be
sure
to wire (through each harness) as
illustrated so that the harnesses starter
switch,
combination switch and SRS coil may
not catch wiring (Fig. 3F4-39).
Starter switch
harness
Combination switch harness
Inflator module harness
5. Steering wheel
Fig. 3F4-39
• Align the setting marks made when re
moving.
WCAUTION:
Never apply force to the steering wheel in
direction
ofthe shaft by using a hammer or other
impacttools in an attempt to remove the steering
wheel. The steering
shaft is designed as an
energy absorbing unit.
• Tighten the steering wheel fixing nut to the
specified torque. Torque
N·m (lb·ftl 34
(25)
4. Inflator module
• Support the module and carefully connect the
module connector.
NOTE:
Pass the lead wire through the tabs on the plastic
cover (wire protector) of inflator to prevent lead
wire from being pinched.
• Secure the module with one bolt to relieve
weight on the connector wire.
• Tighten bolts to specified sequence as figure
(Fig. 3F4-40).
Torque
N·m (lb-in) 8 (69)
Fig. 3F4-40
3. Driver knee bolster (reinforcement)
2. Steering lower cover
• Install the engine hood opening lever.
1. Front console assembly
• Connect the wiring harness connectors.
• Install the transmission (for M/T) and transfer
control lever knob.
• Connect the yellow 3way SRS connector located
under the steering column.
• Connect the battery "-"terminal cable.
SYSTEM INSPECTION
• Set ignition to "ON" while watching warning
light.
• Light should flash 7 times and then go off. If
lamp does not operate correctly, refer to
Section 9J.
•
Page 240 of 1928

4A-12 PROPELLER SHAFT
MAIN DATA AND SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Engine 6VD1 (3.2 L)
Transmission MIT A/T
Construction Hollow steel tube with yoke and spider type universal joints.
Outside diameter mm (in)
Rear
propeller shaft
Short 68.9 (2.71) 68.9
(2.71)
Long 82.6 (3.25) 68.9
(2.71)
Front
propeller shaft 40.0 (1.57) 40.0 (1.57)
Length
mm (in)
Rear
propeller shaft
Short 848 (33.39) 678
(26.69)
Long
1271 (50.04) 11 02.5 (43.41)
Front
propeller shaft 404 (15.91) 559 (22.01)
..
Page 243 of 1928

REAR AXLE 48-1
SECTION 48
REAR AXLE
\V CAUTION:
When fasteners are removed, always reinstall them at the same location from which they were removed.
If a fastener needs to be replaced, use the correct part number fastener for that application. If the correct
part number fastener is not available, a fastener of equal size and strength (or stronger) may be used.
Fasteners
that are not reused, and those requiring thread locking compound, will be called out. The
correct
torque values must be used when installing fasteners that require torque. If the above conditions
are not followed, parts or system damage could result.
CONTENTS
General Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48-1
Diagnosis of Rear
Axle Noise . .
. . . . . . . . . . 48-3
On-Vehicle Service ..................... 48-4
Axle Housing . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48-4
Axle Shaft . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48-7
Pinion
Oil Seal . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
48-10
Differential Assembly
. .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48-11 Unit
Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48-13
Differential Assembly . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
48-13 Differential Cage Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . 48-23
Limited
Slip Differential . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . 48-27
Main Data and Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . 48-33
General Specifications . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48-33
Torque Specifications
................ 48-34
Special Tools ......................... 48-35
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The rear axle assembly is of the semi-floating type in
which the vehicle weight is carried on the axle
housing (Fig. 48-1).
The center
line of the pinion gear is below the center
line of the ring gear (hypoid drive).
All parts necessary to transmit power from the
propeller shaft to the rear wheels are enclosed in a
banjo type axle housing.
The 8.7 inch ring gear rear axle uses a conventional
ring and
pinion gear set to transmit the driving force
of the engine to the rear wheels. This gear set transfers
this driving force at a 90 degree angle from the
propeller shaft to the drive shafts. The
axle shafts
are supported at the wheel end of the
shaft by a roller bearing.
The
pinion gear is supported by two tapered roller
bearings. The pinion depth is set by a shim pack
located between the gear end of the pinion and the
roller bearing that is pressed onto the pinion. The
pinion bearing preload is set by crushing a collapsible
spacer between the bearings in the axle housing.
Page 245 of 1928

REAR AXLE 48-3
DIAGNOSIS OF REAR AXLE NOISE
Many noises that seem to come from the rear axle
actually
originate from other sources such as tires,
road surface, wheel bearings, engine, transmission,
muffler,
or body drumming. Investigate to find the
source
ofthe noise before disassembling the rear axle.
Rear axles,
like any other mechanical device, are not
absolutely quiet but should be considered quiet unless
some abnormal noise is present.
To make a systematic check
for axle noise, observe the
following:
1. Select a level asphalt road to reduce tire noise and
body drumming.
2. Check rear axle lubricant level to assure correct
level, and then drive the vehicle far enough to
thoroughly warm up the rear axle lubricant.
3. Note the speed at which noise occurs. Stop the
vehicle and put the transmission in neutral. Run
the engine speed
slowly up and down to
determine if the noise is caused by exhaust,
muffler noise, or other engine conditions.
4. Tire noise changes with different road surfaces;
axle noises do not. Temporarily inflate all tires to
344
kPa (50 psi) (for test purposes only). This will
change noise caused by tires but will not affect
noise caused by the rear
axle.
Rear axle nose usually stops when coasting at
speeds under
48 km/h (30 mph); however, tire
noise continues
with a lower tone. Rear axle noise
usually changes when comparing pull and coast,
but tire noise stays about the same.
Distinguish between tire noise and rear
axle noise
by noting
if the noise changes with various
speeds
or sudden acceleration and deceleration.
Exhaust and
axle noise vary under these
conditions,
while tire noise remains constant and
is more pronounced at speeds
of 32 to 48 km/h
(20 to 30 mph). Further check for tire noise by
driving the vehicle
over smooth pavements or dirt
roads (not gravel) with the tires at normal
pressure.
If the noise is caused by tires, it will
change noticeably with changes in road surface.
5. Loose or rough front wheel bearings will cause
noise
which may be confused with rear axle
noise; however, front wheel bearing noise does
not change when comparing drive and coast.
Light application
of the brake while holding
vehicle speed steady
will often cause wheel
bearing noise to diminish. Front wheel bearings
may be checked for noise by jacking up the
wheels and spinning them
or by shaking the
wheels
to determine if bearings are loose.
6. Rear suspension rubber bushings and spring
insulators dampen
out rear axle noise when
correctly installed. Check to see that there is no
link or rod loosened or metal-to-metal contact.
7. Make sure that there is no metal-to-metal contact
between the
floor and the frame.
After the noise has been determined to be in the axle,
the type of axle noise should be determined, in order to
make any necessary repairs.
GEAR NOISE
Gear noise (whine) is audible from 32 to 89 km/h (20 to
55 mph) under four driving conditions.
1. In drive under acceleration or heavy pull.
2. Driving under load or under constant speed.
3. When using enough throttle to keep the vehicle
from driving the engine while the vehicle slows
down gradually (engine still pulls slightly).
4. When coasting with the vehicle in gear and the
throttle closed. The gear noise is
usually more
noticeable between 48 and 64
km/h (30 and 40
mph) and 80 and 89 km/h (50 and 55 mph).
BEARING NOISE
Bad bearings generally produce a rough growl or
grating sound, rather than the whine typical of gear
noise. Bearing noise frequently
"wow-wows" at
bearing rpm, indicating a bad pinion
or rear axle side
bearing. This noise can
be confused with rear wheel
bearing noise.
REAR WHEEL BEARING NOISE
Rear wheel bearing noise continues to be heard while
coasting at low speed with transmission in the neutral.
Noise may diminish by gentle braking. Jack up the rear
wheels, spin them by hand and
listen for noise at the
hubs. Replace any faulty
wheel bearings.
KNOCK AT LOW SPEEDS
Low speed knock can be caused by worn universal
joints or a side gear hub counter bore in the cage that is
worn oversize. Inspect and replace universal joints or
cage and side gears as required.
BACKLASH CLUNK
Excessive clunk on acceleration and deceleration can
be caused by a worn rear axle pinion shaft, a worn
cage, excessive clearance between the axle and the
side gear splines, excessive clearance between the
side gear hub and the counterbore in the cage,
worn
pinion and side gear teeth, worn thrust washers, or
excessive drive pinion and ring gear backlash.
Remove
worn parts and replace as required. Select
close-fitting parts when possible. Adjust pinion and
ring gear backlash.
Page 322 of 1928

SA-2 HYDRAULIC BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS
ROAD TESTING THE BRAKES
Brake Test
Brakes should be tested on a dry, clean, reasonably
smooth and
level roadway. A true test of brake
performance cannot be made
if the roadway is
wet, greasy
or covered with loose dirt so that all
tires do not grip the road equally. Testing will also
be adversely affected if the roadway is crowned so
as to throw the weight of the vehicle toward
wheels on one side or if the roadway is so rough
that wheels tend to bounce. Test the brakes at dif
ferent vehicle speeds with both light and heavy
pedal pressure; however, avoid locking the wheels
and sliding the tires. Locked wheels and sliding
tires do not indicate brake efficiency, since heavily
braked but turning wheels will stop the vehicle in
less distance than locked wheels. More tire-to-road
friction is present
with a heavily braked turning tire
then
with a sliding tire.
The standard brake system is designed and
balanced
to avoid locking the wheels except at very high
deceleration
levels.
It
is designed this way because the shortest stopping
distance and best
control is achieved without brake
lock-up.
Because of high deceleration capability, a firmer pedal
may be felt at higher deceleration levels.
External Conditions That Affect Brake
Performance
1.
2.
3.
Tires: Tires having unequal contact and grip on
the road
will cause unequal braking. Tires must
be equally inflated, identical in size, and the tread
pattern
of right and left tires must be approxi
mately equal.
Vehicle loading:
A heavily loaded vehicle requires
more braking effort.
Wheel Alignment: Misalignment of the wheels,
particularly
in regard to excessive camber and
caster,
will cause the brakes to pull to one side.
BRAKE FLUID LEAKS
With engine running at idle and the transmission in
"Neutral", depress the brake pedal and hold a constant
foot pressure on the pedal. If pedal gradually falls
away with the constant pressure, the hydraulic system
may be leaking.
Check the master cylinder fluid level. While a slight
drop in reservoir level will result from normal lining
wear, an abnormally low level in reservoir indicates a
leak in the system. The hydraulic system may be
leaking internally as well as externally. Refer to
"Master Cylinder Inspection". Also, the system may
appear
to pass this test but still have slight leakage. If
fluid level
is normal, check the vacuum booster
push rod
length. If an incorrect length push rod is
found, adjust
or replace the push rod. Check the
brake
pedal travel and the parking brake adjust
ment.
When checking the
fluid level, the master cylinder fluid
level
may be low from the "MAX" mark if the front and
rear
linings are worn. This is not abnormal.
WARNING LIGHT OPERATION
When the ignition switch is in the START position,
the
"BRAKE" warning light should glow and go off
when the ignition switch returns to the ON position.
The
following conditions will activate the "BRAKE"
light:
1. Parking brake applied. The light should be on
whenever the parking brake is applied and the
ignition switch is on.
2. Low fluid level. A low fluid level in the master
cylinder will turn the "BRAKE" light on (Except
Rear
Wheel Antilock Brake System (RWAL)
model).
3. During engine cranking the "BRAKE" light
should
remain on. This notifies the driver that
the warning circuit is operating properly.
4. In the event of a front or rear system malfunc
tion (RWAL model only).
5. In the event of RWAL malfunction (RWAL
model only. Refer to Section 5A3).
ANTILOCK BRAKE SYSTEM (RWAL or
ABS}
Refer to Section 5A3 or 5A4 for inspection and di
agnosis procedure of the hydraulic unit.
..
Page 325 of 1928

HYDRAULIC BRAKES 5A-5
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
FILLING MASTER CYLINDER
RESERVOIR
'\fl CAUTION:
'VI • Use only specified brake fluid. Do not use any
fluid which contains a petroleum base. Do not
use a container which has been used for
petroleum based fluids or a container which is
wet with water. Petroleum based fluids will
cause swelling and distortion of rubber parts in
the
hydraulic brake system. Water mixed with
brake fluid lowers the fluid boiling point. Keep
all fluid containers capped to prevent contami
nation.
• Always fill the master cylinder reservoir when
the engine is
cold.
•
Never allow the brake fluid to come in contact
with the painted surfaces.
The master
cylinder reservoir must be kept properly
filled
to ensure adequate reserve and to prevent air
and moisture
from entering the hydraulic system.
However, because
of expansion due to heat absorbed
from the brakes and the engine, the reservoir must not
be overfilled. The brake fluid reservoir is on the master
cylinder, which is located under the hood on the
left
side of the cowl. Thoroughly clean reservoir cap
before
removal to avoid getting dirt into reservoir.
Remove cap and diaphragm.
Add fluid as required to
bring level to the "MAX" mark on the reservoir tank.
Use
"DOT 3" Hydraulic Brake Fluid. If the fluid cap
diaphragm is stretched, return
it to the original position
before
installing.
DETERIORATION OF BRAKE FLUID
Using any other brake fluid than specified or brake fluid
with mineral oil or water mixed in will drop the boiling
point of brake fluid. It may, in turn, result in vapor lock
or deteriorated rubber parts of the hydraulic system.
Be sure to change brake fluid at specified intervals.
If rubber parts are deteriorated, remove all the system
parts and
clean them with alcohol. Prior to reassembly,
dry the cleaned parts with air to remove the alcohol.
Replace all
hoses and rubber parts of the system.
LEAKAGE OF BRAKE FLUID
With engine idling, set shift lever in the neutral position
and continue to depress brake
pedal at a constant
pressure.
Should the pedal stroke become deeper gradually,
leak from the hydraulic pressure system is possible.
Make sure
by visual check that there is no leak.
BLEEDING BRAKE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
A bleeding operation is necessary to remove air from
the hydraulic brake system whenever air is introduced
into the hydraulic system.
It may be necessary to bleed
the hydraulic system at all four brakes if air has been
introduced through a
low fluid level or by dis
connecting brake pipes at the master cylinder. If a
brake pipe is disconnected at one
wheel, only that
wheel cylinder/caliper needs to be bled. If pipes are
disconnected at any fitting
located between master
cylinder and brakes, then the brake system served by
the disconnected pipe must
be bled.
1. For 4-wheel Antilock Brake System (ABS)
equipped
vehicle, be sure to remove the ABS
main fuse
40A located at the relay and fuse box
before
bleeding air. If you attempt to bleed air
without removing the main fuse, air cannot be let
out thoroughly, and this may cause damage to the
hydraulic unit.
After bleeding air, be sure to
replace the ABS main fuse back to its original
position.
2. Set the parking brake completely, then start the
engine.
NOTE:
The vacuum booster will be damaged if the
bleeding operation is performed with the engine
off.
3. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap.
4. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid.
Keep the reservoir at least half full during the air
bleeding operation.
5. Always use new brake fluid for replenishment.
6. In replenishing brake fluid, take care that air
bubbles do not enter the brake fluid.
•
When the master cylinder is replaced or
overhauled, first bleed the air from the master
cylinder, then from each
wheel cylinder and
caliper following the procedures described
below.
Bleeding the master cylinder (Fig. 5A-1}
7. Disconnect the rear wheel brake pipe
cylinder (Fig. 5A-1 ). Check the fluid level
and replenish as necessary. If replenished, leave
the system for at least one minute.
8. Depress the brake pedal slowly once and hold it
depressed.
9. Completely seal the delivery port of the master
cylinder where the pipe was disconnected with
your finger, then release the brake pedal slowly.
10. Release your finger from the delivery port when
the brake
pedal returns completely.
11. Repeat steps 7 through 9 until the brake fluid
comes out of the delivery port during step 7.
Page 326 of 1928

5A-6 HYDRAULIC BRAKES
NOTE:
Do not allow the fluid level in the reservoir to go below
the half-way mark.
12. Reconnect the brake pipe
(j) to the master
cylinder and tighten the pipe.
13. Depress the brake pedal
slowly once and hold it
depressed.
14. Loosen the rear wheel brake pipe (j) at the master
cylinder (Fig. 5A-1).
15. Retighten the brake pipe, then release the brake
pedal
slowly.
16. Repeat steps 13 through 15 until no air comes out
from the port when the brake pipe is loosened.
NOTE:
Be very careful not to allow the brake fluid to come in
contact
with painted surfaces.
17. Bleed the air from the front wheel brake pipe
connection
® by repeating steps 7 through 16
(Fig.
5A-1 ).
Fig. 5A-1
Bleeding the caliper
18. Bleed the air from each wheel in the order listed
below.
• Right rear caliper
• Left rear caliper
• Right front caliper
• Left front caliper
If brake fluid does not come out or brake fluid does
not remain in the master cylinder while bleeding
each
caliper in the order listed above, the master
cylinder may contain air in its bore. First bleed the
master cylinder
as described in step 7 through 17.
19.
Place the proper size box end wrench over the
bleeder screw.
20. Cover the bleeder screw with a transparent tube,
and submerge the free end
of the transparent
tube in a transparent container containing brake
fluid.
21. Pump the brake pedal slowly three (3) times
(once/sec), then
hold it depressed.
22. Loose the bleeder screw until fluid flows through
the tube.
23. Retighten the bleeder screw.
24. Release the brake pedal slowly.
25. Repeat step 21 through 24 until the air is com
pletely removed.
It may be necessary to repeat
the bleeding procedure
10 or more times for front
wheels and 15 or more times for rear wheels.
26. Go to the next wheel in the sequence after each
wheel is bled.
Be sure to monitor reservoir fluid
level.
27. Depress the brake pedal to check if you feel
"sponginess" after the air has been removed from
all wheel cylinders and calipers. If the pedal feels
"spongy", the entire bleeding procedure must be
repeated.
28. After the bleeding operation is completed on each
individual wheel, check the level
of brake fluid in
the reservoir and replenish up to the
"MAX" level
if necessary.
29. Attach the reservoir cap.
• If the diaphragm inside the cap is deformed,
reform
it and install.
30. Stop the engine.
FLUSHING BRAKE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
It is recommended that the entire hydraulic system be
thoroughly flushed with clean brake fluid whenever
new parts are
installed in the hydraulic system.
Approximately one quart
of fluid is required to flush the
hydraulic system.
The system
must be flushed if there is any doubt as to
the grade
of fluid in the system or iffluid has been used
which contains the
slightest trace of mineral oil. All
rubber parts that have been subjected to a con
taminated fluid
must be replaced.
BRAKE PIPES AND HOSES
The hydraulic brake system components are inter
connected
by special steel piping and flexible hoses.
Flexible hoses are used between the frame and the
front calipers, the frame and rear axle case and the rear
axle and the rear calipers.
When the hydraulic pipes have been disconnected
for
any reason, the brake system must be bled after
reconnecting the pipe; refer to
"Bleeding the Brake
Hydraulic
System" in this section.
BRAKE HOSE INSPECTION
The brake hoses should be inspected at least twice a
year. The brake hose assembly should
be checked for
road hazard, cracks and chafing ofthe outer cover, and
for leaks and blisters. Inspect for proper routing and
mounting
of the hose. A brake hose that rubs on
suspension components
will wear and eventually fail.
A light and mirror may be needed for an adequate
inspection.
If any of the above conditions are observed
on the brake hose, adjust
or replace the hose as
necessary.
\fl CAUTION:
'V Never allow brake components such as calipers
to hang from the brake hoses, as damage to the
hoses may occur.