interior JEEP CHEROKEE 1995 Service Repair Manual

(2) Note any indication of drum/rotor overheating,
wheel dragging or the vehicle pulling to one side
when the brakes are applied.
(3) Evaluate any performance complaints received
from the owner/operator.
(4) Repair the brake system as necessary. Refer to
Group, 5 Brakes for additional information and ser-
vice procedures.
TIRES
RECOMMENDED MAINTENANCE
The general condition of the tires and the inflation
pressures should be inspected at the same time the
engine oil is changed and the oil filter is replaced.
In addition, the tires/wheels should be rotated at
the intervals described in the Maintenance Schedules
section of this group.
INSPECTION
Inspect the tires for excessive wear, damage, etc.
Test the tires for the recommended inflation pres-sure. Refer to the tire inflation pressure decal located
on the inside of the glove box door, and also to Group
22, Tires And Wheels.
ROTATION
Refer to Group 22, Tires And Wheels for the recom-
mended method of tire/wheel rotation for a Jeep ve-
hicle.
BODY COMPONENTS
LUBRICATION REQUIREMENTS
All Jeep operating mechanisms and linkages
should be lubricated when necessary. The door
weatherstrip seals should be lubricated to prolong
their life as well as to improve door sealing.
LUBRICANT SPECIFICATIONS
All applicable exterior and interior vehicle operat-
ing mechanisms should be:
²Inspected
²Cleaned
²Pivot/sliding contact areas on the mechanisms
should then be lubricated.
Multi-purpose NLGI GC-LB MOPAR Multi-Mileage
Lubricant or an equivalent, should be used to lubri-
cate the mechanisms. The door weatherstrip seals
should be lubricated with silicone lubricant spray.
Refer to the Body Lubricant Specifications chart be-
low for additional lubricant applications.
LUBRICATION
All pivoting and sliding contact areas, should be lu-
bricated periodically to ensure quiet, easy operation
and to protect against wear and corrosion. Areas in-
clude:
²Seat tracks.
²Door hinges/latches/strikers.
²Liftgate/tailgate/hood hinges (Fig. 11).
(1) As required, lubricate the body components
with the specified lubricants.
(2) Apply silicone lubricant to a cloth and wipe it
on door seals to avoid over-spray that can soil pas-
senger clothing.
(3) Before applying lubricant, the component
should be wiped clean. After lubrication, any excess
lubricant should be removed.
(4) The door lock cylinders should be lubricated 2
times each year (preferably autumn and spring):
²Spray a small amount of lock cylinder lubricant di-
rectly into the lock cylinder.
²Apply a small amount to the key and insert it into
the lock cylinder.
²Rotate it to the locked position and then back to
the unlocked position several times.
²Remove the key. Wipe the lubricant from it with a
clean cloth to avoid soiling of clothing.
Fig. 9 Park Brake Equalizer (XJ)ÐTypical
Fig. 10 Park Brake Equalizer (YJ)ÐTypical
0 - 32 LUBRICATION AND MAINTENANCEJ

(2) Pad interior of caliper with minimum, 2.54 cm
(1 in.) thickness of shop towels or rags (Fig. 15). Tow-
els are needed to protect caliper piston during re-
moval.
(3) Remove caliper piston withshort burstsof low
pressure compressed air. Direct air through fluid in-
let port and ease piston out of bore (Fig. 16).
CAUTION: Do not blow the piston out of the bore
with sustained air pressure. This could result in a
cracked piston. Use only enough air pressure to
ease the piston out. In addition, NEVER attempt to
catch the piston as it leaves the bore. This will re-
sult in personal injury.(4) Remove caliper piston dust boot (Fig. 17). Col-
lapse boot with suitable tool and remove and discard
boot.
(5) Remove and discard caliper piston seal with
wood or plastic tool (Fig. 18). Do not use metal tools
as they will scratch piston bore.
(6) Remove caliper mounting bolt bushings and
boots (Fig. 19).
Fig. 15 Padding Caliper Interior To Protect Piston
During Removal
Fig. 16 Removing Caliper Piston
Fig. 17 Removing Caliper Piston Dust Boot
Fig. 18 Removing Caliper Piston Seal
Fig. 19 Caliper Bushing And Boot
JDISC BRAKES 5 - 49

CALIPER CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Clean the caliper and piston with Mopar brake
cleaner, clean brake fluid, or denatured alcohol only.
Do not use gasoline, kerosene, thinner, or similar sol-
vents. These products leave a residue that will dam-
age pistons and seals.
Wipe the caliper and piston dry with lint free tow-
els or use low pressure compressed air.
Inspect the piston and piston bore. Replace the cal-
iper if the bore is corroded, rusted, pitted, or scored.
Do not hone the caliper piston bore. Replace the cal-
iper if the bore exhibits any of the aforementioned
conditions.
Inspect the caliper piston. The piston is made from
a phenolic resin and should be smooth and clean. Re-
place the piston if cracked, chipped, or scored. Do not
attempt to restore a scored, or corroded piston sur-
face by sanding or polishing. The piston must be re-
placed if damaged.
CAUTION: Never interchange phenolic resin and
steel caliper pistons. The seals, seal grooves, cali-
per bores and piston tolerances are different for
resin and steel pistons. Do not intermix these com-
ponents.
Inspect the caliper mounting bolt bushings and
boots. Replace the boots if cut or torn. Clean and lu-
bricate the bushings with GE 661 or Dow 111 silicone
grease if necessary.
Inspect condition of the caliper mounting bolts. Re-
place the bolts if corroded, rusted, or worn. Do not
reuse the bolts if unsure of their condition.
Length of the caliper mounting bolts is also ex-
tremely important.
Use the replacement bolts specified in the parts
catalog at all times. Do not use substitute bolts. Bolts
that are too long will partially apply the inboard
brakeshoe causing drag and pull. Refer to the caliper
and brakeshoe installation procedures for service de-
tails and bolt dimensions.
CALIPER ASSEMBLY
(1) Coat caliper piston bore, new piston seal and
piston with clean, fresh brake fluid.
(2) Lubricate caliper bushings and interior of bush-
ing boots with GE 661, Dow 111, or Permatex Dielec-
tric silicone grease.
(3) Install bushing boots in caliper first. Then in-
sert bushing into boot and push bushing into place
(Fig. 20).
(4) Install new piston seal in caliper bore. Press
seal into seal groove with finger (Fig. 21).
(5) Install dust boot on caliper piston (Fig. 22).
Slide boot over piston and seat boot in piston groove.(6) Start caliper piston in bore by hand (Fig. 23).
Use a turn and push motion to work piston into seal.
Once piston is started in seal, press pistononly part
wayinto bore.
(7) Press caliper piston to bottom of bore.
(8) Seat dust boot in caliper with Installer Tool
C-4842 and Tool Handle C- 4171 (Fig. 24).
(9) Install caliper bleed screw if removed.
Fig. 20 Installing Bushings And Boots
Fig. 21 Installing Piston Seal
Fig. 22 Installing Dust Boot On Piston
5 - 50 DISC BRAKESJ

CLUTCH DIAGNOSIS
INDEX
page page
Clutch Contamination....................... 3
Clutch Cover and Disc Runout................ 3
Clutch Housing Misalignment................. 4
Clutch Misalignment........................ 3Flywheel Runout........................... 3
General Diagnosis Information................ 3
Inspection and Diagnosis Charts............... 4
Installation Methods and Parts Usage........... 4
GENERAL DIAGNOSIS INFORMATION
Unless the cause of a clutch problem is obvious, ac-
curate problem diagnosis will usually require a road
test to confirm a problem. Component inspection will
then be required to determine the actual problem
cause.
During a road test, drive the vehicle at normal
speeds. Shift the transmission through all gear
ranges and observe clutch action. If chatter, grab,
slip, or improper release is experienced, remove and
inspect the clutch components. However, if the prob-
lem is noise or hard shifting, further diagnosis may
be needed as the transmission or another driveline
component may be at fault. Careful observation dur-
ing the test will help narrow the problem area.
CLUTCH CONTAMINATION
Fluid contamination is a frequent cause of clutch
malfunctions. Oil, water, or clutch fluid on the clutch
disc and pressure plate surfaces will cause chatter,
slip and grab.
During inspection, note if any components are con-
taminated with oil, hydraulic fluid, or water/road
splash.
Oil contamination indicates a leak at either the
rear main seal or transmission input shaft. Oil leak-
age produces a residue of oil on the housing interior
and on the clutch cover and flywheel. Heat buildup
caused by slippage between the cover, disc and fly-
wheel, can sometimes bake the oil residue onto the
components. The glaze-like residue ranges in color
from amber to black.
Road splash contamination means dirt/water is en-
tering the clutch housing due to loose bolts, housing
cracks, or through hydraulic line openings. Driving
through deep water puddles can force water/road
splash into the housing through such openings.
Clutch fluid leaks are usually from damaged slave
cylinder push rod seals. This type of leak can only be
confirmed by visual inspection.
CLUTCH MISALIGNMENT
Clutch components must be in proper alignment
with the crankshaft and transmission input shaft.Misalignment caused by excessive runout or warpage
of any clutch component will cause grab, chatter and
improper clutch release.
FLYWHEEL RUNOUT
Check flywheel runout whenever misalignment is
suspected. Flywheel runout should not exceed 0.08
mm (0.003 in.). Measure runout at the outer edge of
the flywheel face with a dial indicator. Mount the in-
dicator on a stud installed in place of one of the fly-
wheel bolts.
Common causes of runout are:
²heat warpage
²improper machining
²incorrect bolt tightening
²improper seating on crankshaft flange shoulder
²foreign material on crankshaft flange
Flywheel machining is not recommended. The fly-
wheel clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. However, mi-
nor flywheel scoring can be cleaned up by hand with
180 grit emery, or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring (ap-
proximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.). Heavy stock removal
isnot recommended.Replace the flywheel if scor-
ing is severe and deeper than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.).
Excessive stock removal can result in flywheel crack-
ing or warpage after installation; it can also weaken
the flywheel and interfere with proper clutch release.
Clean the crankshaft flange before mounting the
flywheel. Dirt and grease on the flange surface may
cock the flywheel causing excessive runout. Use new
bolts when remounting a flywheel and secure the
bolts with Mopar Lock And Seal. Tighten flywheel
bolts to specified torque only. Overtightening can dis-
tort the flywheel hub causing runout.
CLUTCH COVER AND DISC RUNOUT
Check the clutch disc before installation. Axial
(face) runout of anewdisc should not exceed 0.50
mm (0.020 in.). Measure runout about 6 mm (1/4 in.)
from the outer edge of the disc facing. Obtain an-
other disc if runout is excessive.
Check condition of the clutch before installation. A
warped cover or diaphragm spring will cause grab
and incomplete release or engagement. Be careful
JCLUTCH DIAGNOSIS 6 - 3

If inspection or diagnosis indicates additional fluid
may be needed, use Mopar brake fluid, or an equiv-
alent meeting standards SAE J1703 and DOT 3. Do
not use any other type of fluid.
Clutch fluid level is checked at the master cylinder
reservoir (Fig. 13). An indicator ring is provided ei-
ther on the side, or interior rim of the reservoir (Fig.
14).
Be sure to wipe the reservoir and cover clean be-
fore removing the cover. This will avoid having dirt
or foreign material fall into the reservoir during a
fluid level check.
CLUTCH PEDAL REMOVAL
(1) Remove instrument panel lower trim cover for
extra working clearance.(2) Disconnect clutch pedal position switch wires.
(3) Remove retainer clip that attaches clutch mas-
ter cylinder push rod to pedal.
(4) On YJ, remove retaining ring securing pedal to
pivot shaft (Fig. 15). On XJ, remove nut securing
pedal to pivot shaft (Fig. 16).
(5) Move pedal pivot shaft to right and slide pedal
off shaft.
CLUTCH PEDAL INSTALLATION
(1) Lubricate clutch pedal pivot shaft and pedal
bushings or sleeve with Mopar multi-mileage grease.
(2) Position pedal on pivot shaft and through
brace. Secure pedal with washer and retaining ring
on YJ, or with washer and nut on XJ.
Fig. 13 Clutch Master Cylinder Reservoir And CapFig. 14 Reservoir Fluid Level Indicator Ring
Fig. 15 Clutch Pedal Mounting (YJ)
JCLUTCH SERVICE 6 - 15

WARNING: HOT, PRESSURIZED COOLANT CAN
CAUSE INJURY BY SCALDING.
Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from
the filler neck and check the coolant level. Push
down on the cap to disengage it from the stop tabs.
Wipe the inner part of the filler neck and examine
the lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint,
dirt and solder residue. Inspect the reserve/overflow
tank tube for internal obstructions. Insert a wire
through the tube to be sure it is not obstructed.
Inspect the cams on the outside part of the filler
neck. If the cams are bent, seating of pressure cap
valve and tester seal will be affected. Replace cap if
cams are bent.
Attach pressure tester 7700 (or an equivalent) to
the radiator filler neck (Fig. 21).Operate the tester pump to apply 124 kPa (18 psi)
pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge exces-
sively or bulge while testing, replace as necessary.
Observe the gauge pointer and determine the condi-
tion of the cooling system according to the following
criteria:
²Holds Steady: If the pointer remains steady for
two minutes, there are no serious coolant leaks in
the system. However, there could be an internal leak
that does not appear with normal system test pres-
sure. Inspect for interior leakage or do the Internal
Leakage Test. Do this if it is certain that coolant is
being lost and no leaks can be detected.
²Drops Slowly: Shows a small leak or seepage is oc-
curring. Examine all connections for seepage or slight
leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the radiator, hoses,
gasket edges and heater. Seal any small leak holes
with a Sealer Lubricant or equivalent. Repair leak
holes and reinspect the system with pressure ap-
plied.
²Drops Quickly: Shows that a serious leakage is oc-
curring. Examine the system for serious external
leakage. If no leaks are visible, inspect for internal
leakage. Large radiator leak holes should be repaired
by a reputable radiator repair shop.
INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION
Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a
small amount of engine oil. Coolant, being heavier
than engine oil, will drain first. Another way of test-
ing is to operate the engine and check for water glob-
ules on the engine oil dipstick. Also inspect the
automatic transmission oil dipstick for water glob-
ules. Inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler
for leakage. Operate the engine without the pressure
cap on the radiator until thermostat opens.
Attach a pressure tester to the filler neck. If pres-
sure builds up quickly, a leak exists as a result of a
faulty cylinder head gasket or crack in the engine.
Repair as necessary.
WARNING: DO NOT ALLOW PRESSURE TO EX-
CEED 124 KPA (18 PSI). TURN THE ENGINE OFF.
TO RELEASE THE PRESSURE, ROCK THE TESTER
FROM SIDE TO SIDE. WHEN REMOVING THE
TESTER, DO NOT TURN THE TESTER MORE THAN
1/2 TURN IF THE SYSTEM IS UNDER PRESSURE.
If there is no immediate pressure increase, pump
the pressure tester until the indicated pressure is
within the system range. Vibration of the gauge
pointer indicates compression or combustion leakage
into the cooling system.
WARNING: DO NOT DISCONNECT THE SPARK
PLUG WIRES WHILE THE ENGINE IS OPERATING.
Fig. 20 Leak Detection Using Black LightÐTypical
Fig. 21 Pressurizing SystemÐTypical
JCOOLING SYSTEM SERVICE PROCEDURES 7 - 23

CLUSTER ILLUMINATION LAMPS
(1) Check fuse 19 (fuse 25 - RHD) in fuseblock
module. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, replace
fuse.
(2) Turn park lamps on at headlamp switch. Rotate
headlamp switch knob counterclockwise to just before
interior lamps detent. Check for battery voltage at
fuse 19 (fuse 25 - RHD) in fuseblock module. Rotate
headlamp switch clockwise while observing test volt-
meter. Reading should go from battery voltage to zero
volts. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair open
circuit to headlamp switch or refer to Group 8L -
Lamps to diagnose headlamp switch.
(3) Disconnect battery negative cable. Remove in-
strument cluster bezel and cluster assembly. Unplug
cluster connector A. Connect battery negative cable.Turn park lamps on at headlamp switch. Rotate
headlamp switch knob counterclockwise to just before
interior lamps detent. Check for battery voltage at
cavity A7 (cavity A6 - RHD) of cluster connector A. If
OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair open circuit to
fuse as required.
(4) Turn park lamps off. Disconnect battery nega-
tive cable. Remove fuse 19 (fuse 25 - RHD) from fuse-
block module. Probe cavity A7 (cavity A6 - RHD) of
cluster connector A. Check for continuity to a good
ground. There should be no continuity. If OK, go to
next step. If not OK, repair short circuit as required.
(5) Probe cavity A3 of cluster connector A. Check
for continuity to ground. There should be continuity.
If not OK, repair open circuit as required.
8E - 16 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGESÐXJJ

TURN SIGNAL INDICATOR LAMPS
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable. Remove left
instrument cluster bezel and main cluster assembly.
Probe cavity 20 of cluster connector. Check for conti-
nuity to a good ground. There should be continuity. If
OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair open circuit to
ground.
(2) Connect battery negative cable. Install a
jumper wire from cavity 18 (left indicator) or cavity 7
(right indicator) of cluster connector to a 12-volt bat-
tery feed. Lamp should light. If OK, continue to next
step. If not OK, replace bulb.
(3) Disconnect battery negative cable. Check for
continuity between cavity 18 (left indicator) or cavity
7 (right indicator) of cluster connector and cavity H
(left front turn signal) or cavity J (right front turn
signal) of steering column wiring connector. There
should be continuity. If OK, refer to Group 8J - Turn
Signal and Hazard Warning Systems for further di-
agnosis. If not OK, repair open circuit as required.
UPSHIFT INDICATOR LAMP
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable. Unplug PCM
connector. Connect battery negative cable. Turn igni-
tion switch to ON. Install a jumper wire from cavity
54 of PCM connector (Fig. 5) to a good ground. Lamp
should light. Remove jumper from ground. Lamp
should go off. If OK, refer to Powertrain Diagnostic
Procedures manual to diagnose PCM. If not OK, turn
ignition switch to OFF and go to next step.
(2) Disconnect battery negative cable. Remove left
instrument cluster bezel and main cluster assembly.
Install a jumper wire from cavity 5 of cluster connec-
tor to a good ground. Connect battery negative cable.
Turn ignition switch to ON. Lamp should light. If
OK, go to next step. If not OK, replace bulb.
(3) Turn ignition switch to OFF. Disconnect battery
negative cable. Unplug cluster connector. Check for
continuity between cavity 5 of cluster connector and
a good ground. There should be no continuity. If OK,
go to next step. If not OK, repair short circuit as re-
quired.(4) Check for continuity between cavity 5 of cluster
connector and cavity 54 of PCM connector. There
should be continuity. If not OK, repair open circuit as
required.
CLUSTER ILLUMINATION LAMPS
(1) Check fuse 10 in fuseblock module. If OK, go to
next step. If not OK, replace fuse.
(2) Turn park lamps on at headlamp switch. Rotate
panel dimmer switch thumb-wheel to HI position,
just before interior lamps detent. Check for battery
voltage at fuse 10 in fuseblock module. Rotate panel
dimmer thumb-wheel towards LO position while ob-
serving test voltmeter. Reading should go from bat-
tery voltage to zero volts. If OK, go to next step. If
not OK, repair open circuit to headlamp switch or re-
fer to Group 8L - Lamps to diagnose headlamp
switch.
(3) Disconnect battery negative cable. Remove left
or center instrument cluster bezel and main or gauge
package cluster assembly. Unplug cluster connector.
Connect battery negative cable. Turn park lamps on
at headlamp switch. Rotate panel dimmer thumb-
wheel to HI position, just before interior lamps de-
tent. Check for battery voltage at cavity 21 of main
cluster connector, or cavity 7 of gauge package clus-
ter connector. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, re-
pair open circuit to fuse as required.
(4) Turn park lamps off. Disconnect battery nega-
tive cable. Remove fuse 10 from fuseblock module.
Probe cavity 21 of main cluster connector, or cavity 7
of gauge package cluster connector. Check for conti-
nuity to a good ground. There should be no continu-
ity. If OK, go to next step. If not OK, repair short
circuit as required.
(5) Probe cavity 20 of main cluster connector, or
cavities 1 and 13 of gauge package cluster connector.
Check for continuity to ground. There should be con-
tinuity. If not OK, repair open circuit as required.
8E - 34 INSTRUMENT PANEL AND GAUGESÐYJJ

FRONT DOOR
(1) Remove interior door latch release assembly
and control panel retaining screws (Fig. 11).
(2) Disconnect control linkage and wire harness
connector.(3) Remove latch release and control panel assem-
bly.
(4) Remove armrest lower retaining screws.
(5) Swing armrest downward to a vertical position.
This is necessary to disconnect armrest from upper
retainer clip (Fig. 12).
(6) Pull armrest straight out from trim panel.
(7) Remove trim panel with a wide, flat-bladed tool
(Fig. 13).
To aid in removal of trim panel, start at the
bottom of the panel.
(8) Remove speaker attaching screws and discon-
nect speaker at wire harness.
(9) Reverse removal procedures to install.
SOUND BAR
(1) Disconnect battery negative cable.
Fig. 8 Parking Brake Remove/Install - XJ
Fig. 9 Lower Instrument Panel Remove/Install - XJ
Fig. 10 Instrument Panel Speaker Remove/Install -
XJ
Fig. 11 Control Panel Remove/Install - XJ
Fig. 12 Armrest Retainer Clip - XJ
JAUDIO SYSTEMS 8F - 7

SERVICE PROCEDURES - XJ
WINDSHIELD WIPER MOTOR REMOVE/INSTALL
(1) Remove wiper arm assemblies by lifting blade
off windshield and pulling out on the tab (Fig. 4) to
lock wiper arm in up position.
(2) Remove cowl trim panel. Disconnect the washer
hose. Remove the cowl mounting bracket attaching
nuts (Fig. 5) and pivot pin attaching screws.
(3) Disconnect wiring harness and remove the as-
sembly.
(4) Remove the plastic motor cover.
(5) Remove bolts and nuts holding motor to linkage
and remove motor.
The wiper motor is shrouded in a protective
rubber boot. Care should be taken not to punc-
ture the boot during removal or installation.
(6) Reverse removal procedures to install. Tighten
wiper motor screws and nuts to 4 Nzm (35 in. lbs.)
torque. Install wiper arms and position as shown in
Fig. 6.
LIFTGATE WIPER MOTOR REMOVE/INSTALL
(1) Remove the wiper arm assembly from the pivot
pin by depressing the tab (Fig. 7) and pulling
straight out.
(2) Slide clip along hose until clip is off hose
mounting.
(3) Disconnect the washer hose.
(4) Remove pivot pin retaining nut (Fig. 8).
(5) Remove external bezel and seal.
(6) Remove the liftgate interior trim panel.
(7) Disconnect the wiper motor at the wiring har-
ness.
Fig. 4 Wiper Arm Remove
Fig. 5 Pivot Assembly Remove
Fig. 6 Windshield Wiper Arms Install
Fig. 7 Liftgate Wiper Arm Remove/Install
8K - 6 WIPER AND WASHER SYSTEMS - XJJ