FORD FIESTA 1989 Service Manual PDF

and the timing belt have been removed. Note
the “FRONT” marking identifying the
sprocket’s outboard face, and the
thrustwasher behind it; note which way round
the thrustwasher is fitted (see illustration).
Note the sprocket-locating Woodruff key; if
this is loose, it should be removed for safe
storage with the sprocket.
9 Check the sprockets as described in
paragraph 14 of Section 8.
10 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure.
Timing belt guide pulleys
11 Remove the timing belt covers (see
Section 7).
12 Unbolt and withdraw the pulley(s); check
their condition as described in paragraph 14
of Section 8.
13 Refitting is the reverse of the removal
procedure; tighten the pulley bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
10 Camshaft oil seals - renewal
4
Note:While it is possible to reach either oil
seal, once the respective sprocket has been
removed (see Section 9) to allow the seal to be
prised out, this procedure is not
recommended. Not only are the seals very
soft, making this difficult to do without risk of damage to the seal housing, but it would be
very difficult to ensure that the valve timing
and the timing belt’s tension, once disturbed,
are correctly reset. Owners are advised to
follow the whole procedure outlined below.
1
Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 12.
Note: If the timing belt is found to be
contaminated by oil, remove it completely as
described, then renew the oil seal (see below).
Wash down the engine timing belt area and all
related components, to remove all traces of
oil. Fit a new belt on reassembly.
2 If the timing belt is still clean, slip it off the
sprocket, taking care not to twist it too
sharply; use the fingers only to handle the
belt. Do not rotate the crankshaft until the
timing belt is refitted. Cover the belt, and
secure it so that it is clear of the working area
and cannot slip off the remaining sprocket.
3 Unfasten the sprocket bolt and withdraw
the sprocket (see Section 9).
4 Unbolt the camshaft right-hand bearing
cap, and withdraw the defective oil seal.
Clean the seal housing, and polish off any
burrs or raised edges, which may have
caused the seal to fail in the first place.
5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use
of their service tool 21-009B, with a bolt
(10 mm thread size, 70 mm long) and a
washer, to draw the seal into place when the
camshaft bearing cap is bolted down; a
substitute can be made using a suitable
socket (see illustration) . Grease the seal lips
and periphery to ease installation, and draw the seal into place until it is flush with the
housing/bearing cap outer edge. Refit the
bearing cap, using sealant and tightening the
cap bolts as described in Section 11.
6
For most owners, the simplest answer will
be to grease the seal lips, and to slide it onto
the camshaft (until it is flush with the
housing’s outer edge). Refit the bearing cap,
using sealant and tightening the cap bolts as
described in Section 11 (see illustration).
Take care to ensure that the seal remains
absolutely square in its housing, and is not
distorted as the cap is tightened down.
7 Refit the sprocket to the camshaft,
tightening the retaining bolt loosely, then slip
the timing belt back onto the sprocket (refer to
paragraphs 16 and 19 of Section 8) and
tighten the bolt securely.
8 The remainder of the reassembly
procedure, including checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 20
to 25 of Section 8.
11 Camshafts and hydraulic tappets - removal, inspection
and refitting
4
Removal
1 Release the tension from the timing belt as
described in Section 8, paragraphs 1 to 12.
2 Either remove the timing belt completely
(Section 8, paragraphs 13 and 14) or slip it off
the camshaft sprockets, taking care not to
twist it too sharply; use the fingers only to
handle the belt. Cover the belt, and secure it
so that it is clear of the working area. Do not
rotate the crankshaft until the timing belt is
refitted.
3 Unfasten the sprocket bolts as described in
Section 8, paragraph 16, and withdraw the
sprockets; while both are the same and could
be interchanged, it is good working practice
to mark them so that each is refitted only to its
original location (see illustration) .
4 Working in the sequence shown, slacken
progressively, by half a turn at a time, the
camshaft bearing cap bolts (see illustration).
Work only as described, to release gradually
2C•8 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
11.4 Camshaft bearing cap slackening
sequence
Note: Viewed from front of vehicle, showing
bearing cap numbers
11.3 Using forked holding tool while
camshaft toothed pulley bolt is slackened10.6 Alternatively, seal can be inserted
when camshaft bearing cap is unbolted
10.5 Using socket and toothed pulley bolt to install camshaft oil seal9.8 “FRONT” marking on outside face of
crankshaft toothed pulley - note which way round thrustwasher behind is fitted
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and evenly the pressure of the valve springs
on the caps.
5Withdraw the caps, noting their markings
and the presence of the locating dowels, then
remove the camshafts and withdraw their oil
seals. The inlet camshaft can be identified by
the reference lobe for the camshaft position
sensor; therefore, there is no need to mark the
camshafts (see illustrations) .
6 Obtain sixteen small, clean containers, and
number them 1 to 16. Using a rubber sucker,
withdraw each hydraulic tappet in turn, invert
it to prevent oil loss, and place it in its
respective container, which should then be
filled with clean engine oil (see illustrations).
Do not interchange the hydraulic tappets, or
the rate of wear will be much increased. Do
not allow them to lose oil, or they will take a
long time to refill on restarting the engine,
resulting in incorrect valve clearances.
Inspection
7 With the camshafts and hydraulic tappets
removed, check each for signs of obvious
wear (scoring, pitting etc) and for ovality, and
renew if necessary.
8 Measure the outside diameter of each
tappet (see illustration) - take measurements
at the top and bottom of each tappet, then a
second set at right-angles to the first; if any
measurement is significantly different from the
others, the tappet is tapered or oval and must be renewed. If the necessary equipment is
available, measure the inside diameter of the
corresponding cylinder head bore. Compare
the measurements obtained to those given
in the Specifications Section of this Chapter; if
the tappets or the cylinder head bores are
excessively worn, new tappets and/or a new
cylinder head will be required.
9
If the engine’s valve components have
sounded noisy, particularly if the noise
persists after initial start-up from cold, there is
reason to suspect a faulty hydraulic tappet.
Only a good mechanic experienced in these
engines can tell whether the noise level is
typical, or if renewal of one or more of the
tappets is warranted. If faulty tappets are
diagnosed, and the engine’s service history is
unknown, it is always worth trying the effect of
renewing the engine oil and filter (see Chap-
ter 1), using onlygood-quality engine oil of the
recommended viscosity and specification,
before going to the expense of renewing any
of the tappets - refer also to the advice in
Section 5 of this Chapter.
10 Visually examine the camshaft lobes for
score marks, pitting, galling (wear due to
rubbing) and evidence of overheating (blue,
discoloured areas). Look for flaking away of
the hardened surface layer of each lobe. If any
such signs are evident, renew the component
concerned. 11
Examine the camshaft bearing journals
and the cylinder head bearing surfaces for
signs of obvious wear or pitting. If any such
signs are evident, renew the component
concerned.
12 Using a micrometer, measure the
diameter of each journal at several points. If
the diameter of any one journal is less than
the specified value, renew the camshaft.
13 To check the bearing journal running
clearance, remove the hydraulic tappets, use
a suitable solvent and a clean lint-free rag to
clean carefully all bearing surfaces, then refit
the camshafts and bearing caps with a strand
of Plastigauge across each journal. Tighten
the bearing cap bolts to the specified torque
wrench setting (do not rotate the camshafts),
then remove the bearing caps and use the
scale provided to measure the width of the
compressed strands. Scrape off the
Plastigauge with your fingernail or the edge of
a credit card - don’t scratch or nick the
journals or bearing caps.
14 If the running clearance of any bearing is
found to be worn to beyond the specified
service limits, fit a new camshaft and
repeat the check; if the clearance is still
excessive, the cylinder head must be renewed.
15 To check camshaft endfloat, remove the
hydraulic tappets, clean the bearing surfaces
carefully, and refit the camshafts and bearing
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•9
11.6a Removing hydraulic tappets
11.5b Inlet camshaft has lobe for camshaft position sensor11.5a Note locating dowels when removing camshaft bearing caps
11.8 Use a micrometer to measurediameter of hydraulic tappets11.6b Hydraulic tappets must be stored as described in text
2C
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caps. Tighten the bearing cap bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting, then
measure the endfloat using a DTI (Dial Test
Indicator, or dial gauge) mounted on the
cylinder head so that its tip bears on the
camshaft right-hand end.
16Tap the camshaft fully towards the gauge,
zero the gauge, then tap the camshaft fully
away from the gauge, and note the gauge
reading. If the endfloat measured is found to
be at or beyond the specified service limit, fit
a new camshaft and repeat the check; if the
clearance is still excessive, the cylinder head
must be renewed.
Refitting
17 On reassembly, liberally oil the cylinder
head hydraulic tappet bores and the tappets
(see illustration) . Note that if new tappets are
being fitted, they must be charged with clean
engine oil before installation. Carefully refit the
tappets to the cylinder head, ensuring that
each tappet is refitted to its original bore, and
is the correct way up. Some care will be
required to enter the tappets squarely into
their bores.
18 Liberally oil the camshaft bearings and
lobes. Ensuring that each camshaft is in its
original location, refit the camshafts, locating
each so that the slot in its left-hand end is
approximately parallel to, and just above, the
cylinder head mating surface.
19 Ensure that the locating dowels are pressed firmly into their recesses, and check
that all mating surfaces are completely clean,
unmarked and free from oil. Apply a thin film
of suitable sealant (Ford recommend
Loctite 518) to the mating surfaces of each
camshaft’s right-hand bearing cap
(see
illustration) . Referring to paragraph 6 of
Section 10, some owners may wish to fit the
new camshaft oil seals at this stage.
20 All camshaft bearing caps have a single-
digit identifying number etched on them (see
illustration) . The exhaust camshaft’s bearing
caps are numbered in sequence 0 to 4, the
inlet’s 5 to 9; see illustration 11.21a for details.
Each cap is to be fitted so that its numbered
side faces outwards, to the front (exhaust) or
to the rear (inlet).
21 Ensuring that each cap is kept square to
the cylinder head as it is tightened down, and
working in the sequence shown, tighten the
camshaft bearing cap bolts slowly and by one
turn at a time, until each cap touches the
cylinder head (see illustration) . Next, go
round again in the same sequence, tightening
the bolts to the first stage torque wrench
setting specified, then once more, tightening
them to the second stage setting. Work only
as described, to impose gradually and evenly
the pressure of the valve springs on the caps.
Fit the camshaft-aligning tool; it should slip
into place as described in paragraph 8 of
Section 8 (see illustration) .
22 Wipe off all surplus sealant, so that none
is left to find its way into any oilways. Follow the sealant manufacturer’s instructions as to
the time needed for curing; usually, at least an
hour must be allowed between application of
the sealant and starting the engine.
23
If using Ford’s recommended procedure,
fit new oil seals to the camshafts as described
in paragraph 5 of Section 10.
24 Using the marks and notes made on
dismantling to ensure that each is refitted to
its original camshaft, refit the sprockets to the
camshafts, tightening the retaining bolts
loosely. Slip the timing belt back onto the
sprockets (refer to paragraph 19 of Section 8)
and tighten the bolts securely - use the forked
holding tool described in paragraph 16 of
Section 8.
25 The remainder of the reassembly
procedure, including checking the camshaft
alignment (valve timing) and setting the timing
belt tension, is as described in paragraphs 15
to 25 of Section 8.
12 Cylinder head -
removal and refitting
4
Removal
Note: The following text assumes that the
cylinder head will be removed with both inlet
and exhaust manifolds attached. This
simplifies the procedure, but makes it a bulky
and heavy assembly to handle - an engine
hoist will be required, to prevent the risk of
injury, and to prevent damage to any delicate
components as the assembly is removed and
refitted. If it is wished first to remove the
manifolds, refer to Chapter 4D, then amend
the following procedure accordingly.
1 Depressurise the fuel system (see Chap-
ter 4D).
2 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 4D and remove the air
inlet components.
4 Equalise the pressure in the fuel tank by
removing the filler cap, then undo the fuel
feed and return lines connecting the engine to
the chassis (see Chapter 4D). Plug or cap all
open fittings.
2C•10 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
11.21b Fit camshaft-aligning tool to set TDC position while camshaft toothed
pulleys are refitted
11.21a Camshaft bearing cap tightening sequence
Note: View from front of vehicle - locate
bearing caps according to etched numbers, aligned as described in text
11.20 Etched marks on camshaft bearing
caps must be arranged as shown, and face outwards11.19 Apply sealant to mating surface ofcamshaft right-hand bearing caps11.17 Oil liberally when refitting hydraulic tappets
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5Disconnect the accelerator cable from the
throttle linkage as described in Chapter 4D.
Secure the cable clear of the engine/
transmission.
6 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt (see Chap-
ter 1).
7 Remove the three screws securing the
wiring “rail” to the rear of the manifold.
Releasing its wire clip, unplug the large
electrical connector (next to the fuel pressure
regulator) to disconnect the engine wiring from
the main loom (see illustration) . Unplug the
electrical connectors on each side of the
ignition coil, and the single connector from
beneath the front of the thermostat housing, to
disconnect the coil and coolant temperature
gauge sender wiring (see illustration).
8 Marking or labelling them as they are
unplugged, disconnect the vacuum hoses as
follows:
a) One from the rear of the throttle housing
(only the one hose - there is no need to
disconnect the second hose running to
the fuel pressure regulator).
b) One from the union on the inlet manifold’s
left-hand end.
c) The braking system vacuum servo unit hose (see Chapter 9 for details).
9 Unbolt the engine earth lead from the
cylinder head lifting eye.
10 Unbolt both parts of the exhaust manifold
heat shield. Either remove the dipstick and
tube, or swing them out of the way.
11 Unscrew the pulse-air filter housing
retaining bolt, then disconnect its vacuum
hose.
12 Drain the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
13 Disconnect all coolant hoses from the
thermostat housing (see illustration).14
Unscrew the two nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold (Chapter 4B); disconnect the oxygen
sensor wiring, so that it is not strained by the
weight of the exhaust system.
15 Remove the timing belt and both
camshafts (see Sections 8 and 11); if the
cylinder head is to be dismantled, withdraw
the hydraulic tappets.
16 Remove the timing belt inner shield (see
Section 7.
17 Working in the reverseof the sequence
shown in illustration 12.28a, slacken the ten
cylinder head bolts progressively and by one
turn at a time; a Torx key (TX 55 size) will be
required. Remove each bolt in turn, and
ensure that new replacements are obtained
for reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses and so mustbe renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
18 Lift the cylinder head away; use
assistance if possible, as it is a heavy
assembly. If necessary, grip the manifolds
and rock it free from the location dowels on
the top face of the cylinder block. Do not
attempt to tap it sideways or lever between
the head and the block top face. Remove the
gasket, noting the two dowels, and discard it.
Preparation for refitting
19 The mating faces of the cylinder head and
cylinder block must be perfectly clean before refitting the head. Use a hard plastic or wood
scraper to remove all traces of gasket and
carbon; also clean the piston crowns. Take
particular care during the cleaning operations,
as aluminium alloy is easily damaged. Also,
make sure that the carbon is not allowed to
enter the oil and water passages - this is
particularly important for the lubrication
system, as carbon could block the oil supply
to the engine’s components. Using adhesive
tape and paper, seal the water, oil and bolt
holes in the cylinder block.
20
Check the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block and the cylinder head for nicks, deep
scratches and other damage. If slight, they
may be removed carefully with a file, but if
excessive, machining may be the only
alternative to renewal.
21 If warpage of the cylinder head gasket
surface is suspected, use a straight-edge to
check it for distortion. Refer to Part D of this
Chapter if necessary.
Refitting
22 Wipe clean the mating surfaces of the
cylinder head and cylinder block. Check that
the two locating dowels are in position in the
cylinder block, and that all cylinder head bolt
holes are free from oil.
23 Position a new gasket over the dowels on
the cylinder block surface, so that the
“TOP/OBEN” mark is uppermost, and with the
tooth (or teeth, according to engine size)
protruding from the front edge (see
illustration) .
24 Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley,
and rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise so
that No 1 cylinder’s piston is lowered to
approximately 20 mm before TDC, thus
avoiding any risk of valve/piston contact and
damage during reassembly.
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•11
12.13 Disconnect all coolant hoses from thermostat housing12.7b Unplug connectors (arrowed) todisconnect ignition coil wiring12.7a Unplug engine wiring loom
connector alongside the inlet manifold
12.23 Ensuring protruding tooth (or teeth) “A” are at front and marking “B” is
upwards, locate new cylinder head gasket on dowels “C”
2C
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Whenever you disconnect
any vacuum lines, coolant or
emissions hoses, wiring
connectors and fuel lines,
always label them clearly, so that they
can be correctly reassembled. Masking
tape and/or a touch-up paint applicator
work well for marking items. Take
instant photos, or sketch the locations
of components and brackets.
To prevent carbon entering
the gap between the pistons
and bores, smear a little
grease in the gap. After
cleaning each piston, use a small brush
to remove all traces of grease and
carbon from the gap, then wipe away
the remainder with a clean rag.
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25As the cylinder head is such a heavy and
awkward assembly to refit with manifolds, it is
helpful to make up a pair of guide studs from
two 10 mm (thread size) studs approximately
90 mm long, with a screwdriver slot cut in one
end - two old cylinder head bolts with their
heads cut off would make a good starting
point. Screw these guide studs, screwdriver
slot upwards to permit removal, into the bolt
holes at diagonally-opposite corners of the
cylinder block surface (or into those where the
locating dowels are fitted); ensure that
approximately 70 mm of stud protrudes
above the gasket.
26 Refit the cylinder head, sliding it down the
guide studs (if used) and locating it on the
dowels. Unscrew the guide studs (if used)
when the head is in place.
27 Fit the new cylinder head bolts dry ( do not
oil their threads); carefully enter each into its
hole and screw it in, by hand only, until finger-
tight.
28 Working progressively and in the
sequence shown, use first a torque wrench,
then an ordinary socket extension bar and an
angle gauge, to tighten the cylinder head bolts
in the stages given in the Specifications
Section of this Chapter (see illustrations).
Note: Once tightened correctly, following this
procedure, the cylinder head bolts do not
require check-tightening, and must notbe re-
torqued.
29 Refit the hydraulic tappets (if removed),
the camshafts, their oil seals and sprockets
(see Sections 11, 10 and 9, as appropriate).
Temporarily refit the crankshaft pulley, and
rotate the crankshaft clockwise to return the
pulley notches to the TDC position described
in Section 3.
30 Refit the earth lead to the lifting eye
31 Refit the timing belt and covers, checking
the camshaft alignment (valve timing) and
setting the timing belt tension, as described in
Section 8.
32 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points:
a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench settings specified.
b) Refill the cooling system, and top-up the engine oil (see Chapter 1 and “Weekly
Checks”).
c) Check all disturbed joints for signs of oil or coolant leakage, once the engine has
been restarted and warmed-up to normal
operating temperature.
d) If the power steering hoses where
disconnected, bleed the system as
described in Chapter 10 after
reconnection.
13 Sump -
removal and refitting
2
Removal
Note: The full procedure outlined below must
be followed, so that the mating surfaces can
be cleaned and prepared to achieve an oil-
tight joint on reassembly, and so that the
sump can be aligned correctly; depending on
your skill and experience, and the tools and
facilities available, it may be that this task can
be carried out only with the engine removed
from the vehicle. Note that the sump gasket
must be renewed whenever it is disturbed.
1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead
(refer to Chapter 5A, Section 1).
2 Drain the engine oil, then clean and refit the
engine oil drain plug, tightening it to the
specified torque wrench setting. Although not
strictly necessary as part of the dismantling
procedure, owners are advised to remove and
discard the oil filter, so that it can be renewed
with the oil (see Chapter 1).
3 Refer to Chapter 5A and remove the starter
motor.
4 Remove the auxiliary drivebelt cover (see
Chapter 1).
5 Unplug the electrical connector(s) to
disconnect the oxygen sensor.
6 Unscrew the nuts to disconnect the
exhaust system front downpipe from the
manifold, then either unhook all the system’s
rubber mountings and withdraw the complete
exhaust system from under the vehicle, or
remove only the downpipe/catalytic converter
(see Chapter 4E for details). 7
Unscrew the sump-to-transmission bolts,
also any securing the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate.
8 Progressively unscrew the sump retaining
bolts. Break the joint by striking the sump with
the palm of the hand, then lower the sump
and withdraw it with the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate (where fitted); note the
presence of any shims between the sump and
transmission.
9 Remove and discard the sump gasket; this
must be renewed as a matter of course
whenever it is disturbed.
10 While the sump is removed, take the
opportunity to remove the oil pump pick-
up/strainer pipe and to clean it (see Sec-
tion 14).Refitting
11 On reassembly, thoroughly clean and
degrease the mating surfaces of the cylinder
block/crankcase and sump, then use a clean
rag to wipe out the sump and the engine’s
interior. If the oil pump pick-up/strainer pipe
was removed, fit a new gasket and refit the
pipe, tightening its screws to the specified
torque wrench setting. Fit the new gasket to
the sump mating surface so that the gasket
fits into the sump groove (see illustration).
12 If the sump is being refitted with the
engine/transmission still connected and in the
vehicle, proceed as follows:
a) Check that the mating surfaces of the sump, the cylinder block/crankcase and
2C•12 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
13.11 Ensure gasket is located correctly in sump groove
12.28c . . . and to Stage 3 using angle gauge12.28b Tightening cylinder head bolts
(Stages 1 and 2) using torque wrench . . .12.28a Cylinder head bolt tightening sequence
Note: View from rear of vehicle
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the transmission are absolutely clean and
flat. Any shims found on removal of the
sump must be refitted in their original
locations.
b) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford
recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions
of the cylinder block/crankcase with the
oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil
seal carrier. Without delay - the sump
bolts must be fully tightened within 10 to
20 minutes of applying the sealant - offer
up the sump and engine/transmission
lower adapter plate, and refit the bolts,
tightening them lightly at first.
c) Ensuring that the engine/transmission
lower adapter plate is correctly located,
firmly press the sump against the
transmission, and tighten the
transmission-to-sump (ie, engine) bolts to
the specified torque wrench setting.
d) Without disturbing the position of the
sump, and working in a diagonal
sequence from the centre outwards,
tighten the sump bolts to the specified
torque wrench setting.
e) Proceed to paragraph 14.
13 If the sump is being refitted with the
engine and transmission separated (in or out
of the vehicle), proceed as follows:
a) Apply a thin film of suitable sealant (Ford recommend Hylosil 102) to the junctions
of the cylinder block/crankcase with the
oil pump and the crankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier (see illustration). Without delay
- the sump bolts must be fully tightened
within 10 to 20 minutes of applying the
sealant - offer up the sump to the cylinder
block/crankcase, and insert the sump
bolts, tightening them lightly at first.
b) Using a suitable straight edge to check
alignment across the flat-machined faces
of each, move the sump as necessary so
that its left-hand face - including any
shims found on removal - is flush with
that of the cylinder block/crankcase (see
illustration) . Without disturbing the
position of the sump, and working in a
diagonal sequence from the centre
outwards, tighten the sump bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
c) Check again that both faces are flush
before proceeding; if necessary, unbolt
the sump again, clean the mating
surfaces, and repeat the full procedure to
ensure that the sump is correctly aligned.
d) If it is not possible to achieve exact
alignment by moving the sump, shims are
available in thicknesses of 0.25 mm
(colour-coded yellow) or 0.50 mm (colour-
coded black) to eliminate the discrepancy
(see illustration) .
14 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, noting the
following points.
a) Tighten all fasteners to the torque wrench settings specified. b)
Always renew any self-locking nuts
disturbed on removal.
c) Refill the cooling system (see Chapter 1).
d) Refill the engine with oil, remembering
that you are advised to fit a new filter (see
Chapter 1).
e) Check for signs of oil or coolant leaks once the engine has been restarted and
warmed-up to normal operating
temperature.
14 Oil pump - removal,
inspection and refitting
4
Removal
Note: While this task is theoretically possible
when the engine is in place in the vehicle, in
practice, it requires so much preliminary
dismantling, and is so difficult to carry out due
to the restricted access, that owners are
advised to remove the engine from the vehicle
first. Note, however, that the oil pump
pressure relief valve can be removed with the
engine in situ - see paragraph 8.
1 Remove the timing belt (see Section 8).
2 Withdraw the crankshaft sprocket and the
thrustwasher behind it, noting which way
round the thrustwasher is fitted (see Sec-
tion 9).
3 Remove the sump (see Section 13).
4 Undo the screws securing the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe to the pump, then
unscrew the nut and withdraw the oil pump
pick-up/strainer pipe. Discard the gasket.
5 Unbolt the pump from the cylinder
block/crankcase (see illustration). Withdraw
and discard the gasket, and remove the
crankshaft right-hand oil seal. Thoroughly
clean and degrease all components,
particularly the mating surfaces of the pump,
the sump, and the cylinder block/crankcase.
Inspection
6 Unscrew the Torx screws, and remove the
pump cover plate; noting any identification
marks on the rotors, withdraw the rotors (see
illustration) .
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•13
13.13c Sump-to-cylinder block/crankcase
alignment shims
1 Fitting points on sump 2 Shim13.13b Checking alignment of sump with cylinder block/crankcase13.13a Apply sealant (arrowed) as directed when refitting sump
14.6 Withdrawing oil pump inner rotor14.5 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to remove oil pump
2C
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7Inspect the rotors for obvious signs of wear
or damage, and renew if necessary; if either
rotor, the pump body, or its cover plate are
scored or damaged, the complete oil pump
assembly must be renewed.
8 The oil pressure relief valve can be
dismantled, if required, without disturbing the
pump. Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Remove
the front right-hand roadwheel and auxiliary
drivebelt cover (see Chapter 1) to provide
access to the valve.
9 Unscrew the threaded plug, and recover
the valve spring and plunger (see
illustrations) . If the plug’s sealing O-ring is
worn or damaged, a new one must be
obtained, to be fitted on reassembly.
10 Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure; ensure the spring and
valve are refitted the correct way round, and
tighten the threaded plug securely.
Refitting
11
The oil pump must be primed on
installation, by pouring clean engine oil into it,
and rotating its inner rotor a few turns.
12 Using grease to stick the new gasket in
place on the cylinder block/crankcase, and
rotating the pump’s inner rotor to align with
the flats on the crankshaft, refit the pump and
insert the bolts, tightening them lightly at first
(see illustration) .
13 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler
gauges, check that the pump is both centred
exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned
squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is
exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and
0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder
block/crankcase on each side of the
crankshaft (see illustration) . Being careful
not to disturb the gasket, move the pump into
the correct position, and tighten its bolts
to the specified torque wrench setting.
14 Check that the pump is correctly located;
if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the
full procedure to ensure that the pump is
correctly aligned.
15 Fit a new crankshaft right-hand oil seal
(see Section 15).
16 Using grease to stick the gasket in place
on the pump, refit the pick-up/strainer pipe,
tightening its screws and nut to their specified
torque wrench settings (see illustration).17
The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.15 Crankshaft oil seals -
renewal
4
Note: Don’t try to prise these seals out without
removing the oil pump or seal carrier - the
seals are too soft, and the amount of space
available is too small, for this to be possible
without considerable risk of damage to the seal
housing and/or the crankshaft journal. Follow
exactly the procedure given below.
Right-hand seal
1 Remove the oil pump (see Section 14).
2 Drive the oil seal out of the pump from
behind (see illustration) .
3 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,
polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place.
4 Refit the oil pump (see Section 14). Grease
the lips and periphery of the new seal, to ease
installation.
5 To fit a new seal, Ford recommend the use
of their service tool 21-093A, with the
crankshaft pulley bolt, to draw the seal into
place; an alternative can be arranged using a
socket of suitable size, with a washer to
match the crankshaft pulley bolt (see
illustration) .
2C•14Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
15.5 Socket of correct size can be used to
replace Ford service tool, drawing new
seal into place as described15.2 Driving out crankshaft right-hand oil seal14.16 Use new gasket when refitting oilpick-up pipe to pump
14.13 Oil pump must be positioned accurately
14.12 Use new gasket when refitting oil pump14.9b . . . to withdraw oil pressure reliefvalve spring and plunger14.9a Unscrew threaded plug - seenthrough right-hand wheel arch . . .
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6If such tools are not available, press the
seal squarely into place by hand; tap it in until
it is flush with the pump housing, using a soft-
faced mallet and a socket with an outside
diameter only slightly smaller than the seal’s
(see illustration) . This approach requires
great care, to ensure that the seal is fitted
squarely, without distortion or damage.
7 Wash off any traces of oil. The remainder of
reassembly is the reverse of the removal
procedure, referring to the relevant text for
details where required. Check for signs of oil
leakage when the engine is restarted.
Left-hand seal
8 Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7).
9 Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 6).
10 Unbolt the flywheel/driveplate (see
Section 17).
11 Remove the sump (see Section 13).
12 Unbolt the oil seal carrier (see
illustration) . Remove and discard its gasket.
13 Supporting the carrier evenly on wooden
blocks, drive the oil seal out of the carrier from
behind (see illustration) .
14 Clean the seal housing and crankshaft,
polishing off any burrs or raised edges, which
may have caused the seal to fail in the first
place. Clean also the mating surfaces of the
cylinder block/crankcase and carrier, using a scraper to remove all traces of the old gasket
- be careful not to scratch or damage the
material of either - then use a suitable solvent
to degrease them.
15
Use grease to stick the new gasket in
place on the cylinder block/crankcase, then
offer up the carrier (see illustration).
16 Using a suitable straight edge and feeler
gauges, check that the carrier is both centred
exactly around the crankshaft, and aligned
squarely so that its (sump) mating surface is
exactly the same amount - between 0.3 and
0.8 mm - below that of the cylinder
block/crankcase on each side of the
crankshaft (see illustration) . Being careful
not to disturb the gasket, move the carrier into
the correct position, and tighten its bolts to
the specified torque wrench setting.
17 Check that the carrier is correctly located;
if necessary, unbolt it again, and repeat the
full procedure to ensure that the carrier is
correctly aligned.
18 Ford’s recommended method of seal
fitting is to use service tool 21-141, with two
flywheel bolts to draw the seal into place. If
this is not available, make up a guide from a
thin sheet of plastic or similar, lubricate the
lips of the new seal and the crankshaft
shoulder with grease, then offer up the seal,
with the guide feeding the seal’s lips over the
crankshaft shoulder (see illustration) . Press
the seal evenly into its housing by hand only, and use a soft-faced mallet gently to tap it
into place until it is flush with the surrounding
housing.
19
Wipe off any surplus oil or grease; the
remainder of the reassembly procedure is the
reverse of dismantling, referring to the relevant
text for details where required. Check for signs
of oil leakage when the engine is restarted.
16 Engine/transmission mountings -
inspection and renewal
1
Inspection
1 The engine/transmission mountings seldom
require attention, but broken or deteriorated
mountings should be renewed immediately, or
the added strain placed on the driveline
components may cause damage or wear.
2 During the check, the engine/transmission
must be raised slightly, to remove its weight
from the mountings.
3 Chock the rear wheels then jack up the
front of the car and support it on axle stands
(see “Jacking and Vehicle Support” ). Position
a jack under the sump, with a large block of
wood between the jack head and the sump,
then carefully raise the engine/transmission
just enough to take the weight off the
mountings.
Zetec engine in-car repair procedures 2C•15
15.13 . . . and ensure that carrier is
properly supported when driving out used oil seal - note notches provided in carrier for drift15.12 Unscrew bolts (arrowed) to removecrankshaft left-hand oil seal carrier . . .15.6 If seal is tapped into place as shown,exercise great care to prevent seal from being damaged or distorted
15.18 Using guide made from thin sheet ofplastic to slide oil seal lips over crankshaft
shoulder15.16 Oil seal carrier must be positionedaccurately15.15 Use new gasket when refitting left-hand oil seal carrier
2C
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4Check the mountings to see if the rubber is
cracked, hardened or separated from the
metal components. Sometimes, the rubber
will split right down the centre.
5 Check for relative movement between each
mounting’s brackets and the engine/
transmission or body (use a large screwdriver
or lever to attempt to move the mountings). If
movement is noted, lower the engine and
check-tighten the mounting fasteners.
Renewal
6 The engine mountings can be removed if
the weight of the engine/transmission is
supported by one of the following alternative
methods.
7 Either support the weight of the assembly
from underneath using a jack and a suitable
piece of wood between the jack saddle and
the sump or transmission (to prevent
damage), or from above by attaching a hoist
to the engine. A third method is to use a
suitable support bar with end pieces which
will engage in the water channel each side of
the bonnet lid aperture. Using an adjustable
hook and chain connected to the engine, the
weight of the engine and transmission can
then be taken from the mountings.
Engine front right-hand mounting
8 This mounting consists of a two-piece
bracket bolted to the inner wing panel,
connected by the bonded-rubber mounting
itself to a (Y-shaped) bracket, bolted (via the
alternator mounting bracket) to the cylinder
block (see illustration) .
9 Unscrew the three bolts securing the front
right-hand mounting bracket to the alternator
mounting bracket.
10 Unscrew the bolts securing the mounting
bracket to the inner wing panel and chassis
rail and withdraw the mounting assembly.
Engine rear right-hand mounting
11 This mounting consists of the bonded-
rubber mounting secured to the inner wing
panel by a (horizontal) bolt, accessible from
within the wheel arch, and a (vertical) stud, the
retaining nut of which is accessible from the
engine compartment. The mounting is bolted
to a bracket, which is in turn bolted to the
cylinder block.
12 Unbolt the mounting from the body by
unscrewing first the single nut (and washer)
immediately to the rear of the timing belt
cover, then the bolt in the wheel arch.
13 Unbolt the mounting from the cylinder
block bracket and withdraw the mounting
assembly.
Transmission bearer and mountings
14 On XR2i models, remove the front
suspension crossmember as described in
Chapter 10.
15 Unscrew and remove the two nuts
securing the mountings (front and rear) to the
transmission bearer
16 Support the transmission bearer, then
undo and remove the four retaining bolts from
the floorpan, two at the front and two at the
rear, and lower the transmission bearer from
the vehicle. Note plate fitment, as applicable,
for reassembly.
17 To remove the mountings from the
transmission, unscrew the upper bolt and
lower stud (front mounting) or the three nuts
(rear mounting) and withdraw the relevant
mounting and bracket assembly from the
transmission.
All mountings
18 Refitting of all mountings is a reversal of
removal. Make sure that the original sequence
of assembly of washers and plates is
maintained.
19 Do not fully tighten any mounting bolts
until they are all located. As the mounting
bolts and nuts are tightened, check that the
mounting rubbers do not twist.
17 Flywheel/driveplate -
removal, inspection and
refitting
3
Removal
1 Remove the transmission (see the relevant
Part of Chapter 7).
2 Where appropriate, remove the clutch
(Chapter 6).
3 Use a centre-punch or paint to make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate
and crankshaft, to ensure correct alignment
during refitting.
4
Prevent the flywheel/driveplate from turning
by locking the ring gear teeth, or by bolting a
strap between the flywheel/driveplate and the
cylinder block/crankcase. Slacken the bolts
evenly until all are free.
5 Remove each bolt in turn, and ensure that
new replacements are obtained for
reassembly; these bolts are subjected to
severe stresses, and so must be renewed,
regardless of their apparent condition,
whenever they are disturbed.
6 Noting the reinforcing plate (automatic
transmission models only), withdraw the
flywheel/driveplate; do not drop it - it is very
heavy.
Inspection
7 Clean the flywheel/driveplate to remove
grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks,
rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks.
Light scoring can be removed with emery
cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear
teeth. Lay the flywheel/driveplate on a flat
surface, and use a straight edge to check for
warpage.
8 Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of
the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If
the crankshaft left-hand seal is leaking, renew
it (see Section 15) before refitting the
flywheel/driveplate.
9 While the flywheel/driveplate is removed,
clean carefully its inboard (right-hand) face,
particularly the recesses which serve as the
reference points for the crankshaft speed/
position sensor. Clean the sensor’s tip, and
check that the sensor is securely fastened.
Refitting
10 On refitting, ensure that the engine/
transmission adapter plate is in place (where
necessary), then fit the flywheel/driveplate to
the crankshaft so that all bolt holes align - it
will fit only one way - check this using the
marks made on removal. Do not forget the
reinforcing plate (automatic transmission
models).
11 Lock the flywheel/driveplate by the
method used on dismantling. Working in a
diagonal sequence to tighten them evenly,
and increasing to the final amount in two or
three stages, tighten the new bolts to the
specified torque wrench setting.
12 The remainder of reassembly is the
reverse of the removal procedure, referring to
the relevant text for details where required.
2C•16 Zetec engine in-car repair procedures
16.8 Engine front right-hand mounting
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2D
1595Ford Fiesta Remake
HCS engines
Cylinder head
Maximum permissible gasket surface distortion (measured over
full length) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . . 0.15 mm
Valve seat angle (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45º
Valve seat width (inlet and exhaust) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.18 to 1.75 mm*
*The inlet and exhaust valves have special inserts which cannot be recut\
using conventional tools.
Valves - generalInletExhaust
Valve length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . 103.7 to 104.4 mm 104.2 to 104.7 mm
Valve head diameter: 1.0 and 1.1 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32.90 to 33.10 mm 28.90 to 29.10 mm
1.3 litre engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . 34.40 to 34.60 mm 28.90 to 29.10 mm
Valve stem diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 7.0 mm 7.0 mm
Valve stem-to-guide clearance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.020 to 0.069 0.046 to 0.095
Cylinder block
Cylinder bore diameter: 1.0 and 1.1 litre engines:
Standard class 1 (or A) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.68 to 68.69 mm
Standard class 2 (or B) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.69 to 68.70 mm
Standard class 3 (or C) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68.70 to 68.71 mm
Oversize 0.5 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 69.20 to 69.21 mm
Oversize 1.0 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 69.70 to 69.71 mm
1.3 litre engines:
Standard class 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 73.94 to 73.95 mm
Standard class 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 73.50 to 73.96 mm
Standard class 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 73.96 to 73.97 mm
Oversize 0.5 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 74.50 to 74.51 mm
Oversize 1.0 mm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . 75.00 to 75.01 mm
Chapter 2 Part D:
Engine removal and overhaul procedures
Camshaft and tappets - removal, inspection and refitting (HCS engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . 10
Crankshaft - refitting and main bearing running clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . . . . . . . 17
Crankshaft - removal and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
Cylinder block/crankcase - cleaning and inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Cylinder head - dismantling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Cylinder head - reassembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Cylinder head and valve components - cleaning and inspection . . . 8
Engine - initial start-up after overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Engine - removal and refitting (HCS engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Engine overhaul - preliminary information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Engine overhaul - reassembly sequence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Engine/transmission removal - preparation and precautions . . . . . . 2
Engine/transmission - removal and refitting (CVH and
PTE engines) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . . . . 4
Engine/transmission - removal and refitting (Zetec engines) . . . . . . 5
General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
. . 1
Main and big-end bearings - inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Piston/connecting rod assemblies - refitting and big-end
bearing running clearance check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Piston/connecting rod assemblies - removal and inspection . . . . . . 11
Piston rings - refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .\
16
2D•1
Specifications Contents
Easy, suitable for
novice with little
experience Fairly easy,
suitable
for beginner with
some experience Fairly difficult,
suitable for competent
DIY mechanic
Difficult,
suitable for
experienced DIY
mechanic Very difficult,
suitable for expert DIY
or professional
Degrees of difficulty
54321
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