torque DODGE RAM SRT-10 2006 Service Manual Online

ENGINE BLOCK
DESCRIPTION
The cylinder block is made of cast iron.The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide
high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate isbolted to the block. The block design
allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat
is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
STANDARD PROCEDURE - CYLINDER BORE HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under
the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive
materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best
tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will
reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing
light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few
strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the
required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the
cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder
surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with
280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be
sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using
honing oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, avail-
able from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The hone
marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2).
4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle.
The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up
and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash
parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Usea clean, white, lint-free cloth to check
that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
CLEANING
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole.
The front and rear oil galley holes.
The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealantwith Teflon 592 to the threads of the
front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the 1/4 inch NPT plugs to 20 Nꞏm (177in. lbs.) torque. Tighten the 3/8 inch
NPT plugs to 27 Nꞏm (240 in. lbs.) torque.

5. Install bearing cap and connecting rod on the jour-
nal and tighten bolts to 27 Nꞏm (20 ft. lbs.) plus a
90° turn. DO NOT rotate crankshaft. Plastigage will
smear, resulting in inaccurate indication.
6. Remove the bearing cap and determine amount of
bearing-to-journal clearance by measuring the
width of compressed Plastigage (2). Refer to
Engine Specifications for the proper clearance.
Plastigage should indicate the same clearance
across the entire width of the insert. If the
clearancevaries,itmaybecausedbyeithera
tapered journal, bent connecting rod or foreign
material trapped between the insert and cap or
rod.
7. If the correct clearance is indicated, replacement of
the bearing inserts is not necessary. Remove the
Plastigage (2) from crankshaft journal and bearing insert. Proceed with installation.
Bearing Mark SIZE USED WITH
JOURNAL SIZE
.025 US.025 mm 50.983-50.967 mm
(.001 in.) (2.0073-2.0066 in.)
Std.STANDARD 50.992-51.008 mm
(2.0076-2.0082 in.)
.250 US.250 mm 50.758-50.742 mm
(.010 in.) (1.9984-1.9978 in.)
8. If bearing-to-journal clearance exceeds the specification, determine which service bearing set to use, using the
chart above.
CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to
Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always
replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened
or removed.
9. Repeat the Plastigage measurement to verify your
bearing selection prior to final assembly.
10. Once you have selected the proper insert, install
the insert and cap. Tighten the connecting rod
bolts to 27 Nꞏm (20 ft. lbs.) plus a 90° turn.
Slide snug-fitting feeler gauge between the connecting
rod and crankshaft journal flange. Refer to Engine
Specifications for the proper clearance. Replace the
connecting rod if the side clearance is not within
specification.

NOTE: Lubricate the bedplate retaining bolts with clean engine oil prior to installation.
6. Install the bedplate retaining bolts, making sure to place the stud bolts in the correct location, Torque the bolts in
the sequence shown.
Tighten boltsA–Lto 54 Nꞏm (40 ft. lbs.)
Tighten bolts1–10to 2.8 Nꞏm (25 in. lbs.)
Turn bolts1–10an additional 90°.
Tighten boltsA1– A6to 27 Nꞏm (20 ft. lbs.)
7. Measure crankshaft end play. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT - STANDARD PROCE-
DURE).
8. Install the connecting rods and measure side clearance. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CONNECTING
ROD BEARINGS - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
9. Position the oil pan gasket/windage tray, using a
new o-ring, install the oil pickup tube. Torque the
bolt to 28 Nꞏn (20 ft. lbs.) torque the nuts to 28 Nꞏm
(20 ft. lbs.).
10. Install the oil pan. Torque the retaining bolts to 15
Nꞏm (11 ft. lbs.) in the sequence shown.
11. Install the engine (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
INSTALLATION).

SEAL - CRANKSHAFT OIL - REAR
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter
runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces. See Engine, for proper repair procedures of
these items.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crankcase as outlined in the section, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in
general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING), under the Oil Leak row, for components inspections on possible
causes and corrections.
7. After the oil leak root cause and appropriate corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL).
REMOVAL
NOTE: This procedure can be performed in vehi-
cle.
1. If being performed in vehicle, remove the transmis-
sion.
2. Remove the flexplate (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/EN-
GINE BLOCK/FLEX PLATE - REMOVAL).
NOTE: The crankshaft oil seal CAN NOT be reused
after removal.
NOTE: The crankshaft rear oil seal remover Spe-
cial Tool 8506 must be installed deeply into the
seal. Continue to tighten the removal tool into the
seal until the tool can not be turned farther. Fail-
ure to install tool correctly the first time will cause
tool to pull free of seal without removing seal from
engine.
3. Using Special Tool 8506 (2), remove the crankshaft rear oil seal (1)

5. The pistons are marked on the piston pin bore sur-
face with an raised “F” indicating installation posi-
tion (1). This mark must be pointing toward the
front of engine on both cylinder banks. The con-
necting rod oil slinger slot faces the front of the
engine.
6. Wipe cylinder bore clean and lubricate with engine
oil.
7. Rotate crankshaft until connecting rod journal is on
the center of cylinder bore. Insert rod and piston
into cylinder bore and carefully position connecting
rod guides over crankshaft journal.
8. Tap piston down in cylinder bore using a hammer
handle. While at the same time, guide connecting
rodintopositiononrodjournal.
CAUTION: Connecting Rod Bolts are Torque to
Yield Bolts and Must Not Be Reused. Always
replace the Rod Bolts whenever they are loosened
or removed.
9. Lubricate rod bolts and bearing surfaces with
engine oil. Install connecting rod cap and bearing. Tighten bolts to 27 Nꞏm(20 ft. lbs.) plus 90°.
10. Install the following components:
Cylinder head(s). (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD - INSTALLATION).
Timing chain and cover. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - INSTAL-
LATION).
Cylinderheadcovers(Referto9-ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - INSTALLA-
TION).
Oil pan and gasket/windage tray. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL PAN- INSTALLATION).
11. Fill crankcase with proper engine oil to correct level.
12. Connect negative cable to battery.

16. Remove the engine mount brackets (2).
INSTALLATION
2WD
NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts,apply MoparLock and Seal
Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
1. Install the right and left side engine mounts to the engine block with (8)bolts. Torque bolts to 54 Nꞏm (40 ft. lbs.).
2. Insert the (2) through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts onto the
through bolts.
3. Lower the engine until the through bolts rest onto the slots in the frame brackets.
4. Tighten the through bolt nuts to 94 Nꞏm (70 ft. lbs.).
5. Install the oil drain trough.
6. Install the engine oil filter.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Install the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
9. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

4WD
NOTE: For mount to engine block and left engine bracket to front axle bolts,apply MoparLock and Seal
Adhesive, Medium Strength Threadlocker.
1. Install the right and left side engine mounts (4,8) to the front axle (6).Torquenutsto94Nꞏm(70ft.lbs.).
2. Raise the front axle into the frame and install the left and right side through bolts. Torque nuts to 94 Nꞏm (70 ft.
lbs.).
3. Insert the two upper through bolts into the right and left side engine mounts and loose assemble the two nuts
onto the through bolts.
4. Lower the engine until the left and right side engine brackets rest on thethrough bolts, and the lower engine
bracket through holes align with the engine mounts, and the left engine bracket holes align with the front axle
slots.
5. Loose assemble the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left enginebracket.
6. Loose assemble the lower through bolts.
7. Torque the nuts for the (4) through bolts to 101 Nꞏm (75 ft. lbs.).
8. Torque the (3) bolts that attach the front axle to the left engine bracketto 101 Nꞏm (75 ft. lbs.).
9. Install the oil drain trough.
10. Install the engine oil filter.
11. Install the front crossmember.
12. Install the skid plate.
13. Lower the vehicle.
14. Install the viscous fan (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUSCLUTCH - REMOVAL).
15. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

MOUNT - REAR
REMOVAL
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Using a suitable jack, support transmission.
3. Remove the nuts from the transmission mount (1).
4. Remove the two bolts that attach the transmission
mount to the engine bracket.
5. Raise the transmission enough to remove the
mount from the crossmember (2).
6. Remove the mount (1).
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Threadlocking compound must be applied to the bolts before installation.
1. Install the two bolts that attach the transmission mount to the transmission bracket.
2. Torque the bolts to 61Nꞏm (45 ft.lbs.) torque.
3. Lower the transmission so the transmission mount rests on the crossmember, and the studs of the transmission
mount are aligned in the slots in the crossmember.
4. Install the nuts onto the transmission mount studs through the crossmember access slot.
5. Torque the nuts to 54Nꞏm (40 ft. lbs.).

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - ENGINE OIL LEAK
Begin with a thorough visual inspection of the engine, particularly at thearea of the suspected leak. If an oil leak
source is not readily identifiable, thefollowingstepsshouldbefollowed:
1. Do not clean or degrease the engine at this time because some solvents maycause rubber to swell, temporarily
stopping the leak.
2. Add an oil soluble dye (use as recommended by manufacturer). Start the engine and let idle for approximately 15
minutes. Check the oil dipstick to make sure the dye is thoroughly mixed as indicated with a bright yellow color
under a black light.
3. Using a black light, inspect the entire engine for fluorescent dye, particularly at the suspected area of oil leak. If
the oil leak is found and identified, repair per service manual instructions.
4. If dye is not observed, drive the vehicle at various speeds for approximately 24 km (15 miles), and repeat inspec-
tion.If the oil leak source is not positively identified at this time, proceed with the air leak detection test method.
Air Leak Detection Test Method
1. Disconnect the breather cap to air cleaner hose at the breather cap end. Cap or plug breather cap nipple.
2. Remove the PCV valve from the cylinder head cover. Cap or plug the PCV valvegrommet.
3. Attach an air hose with pressure gauge and regulator to the dipstick tube.
CAUTION: Do not subject the engine assembly to more than 20.6 kPa (3 PSI) of test pressure.
4. Gradually apply air pressure from 1 psi to 2.5 psi maximum while applyingsoapy water at the suspected source.
Adjust the regulator to the suitable test pressure that provide the best bubbles which will pinpoint the leak
source. If the oil leak is detected and identified, repair per service manual procedures.
5. If the leakage occurs at the rear oil seal area, refer to the section, Inspection for Rear Seal Area Leak.
6. If no leaks are detected, turn off the air supply and remove the air hose and all plugs and caps. Install the PCV
valve and breather cap hose.
7. Clean the oil off the suspect oil leak area using a suitable solvent. Drive the vehicle at various speeds approx-
imately 24 km (15 miles). Inspect the engine for signs of an oil leak by usinga black light.
INSPECTION FOR REAR SEAL AREA LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the source of an oil leak in therear seal area of the engine, a more
involved inspection is necessary. The following steps should be followedto help pinpoint the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal area:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Raise the vehicle.
3. Remove torque converter or clutch housing cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil. Use a black light
to check for the oil leak:
a. Circular spray pattern generally indicates seal leakage or crankshaftdamage.
b. Where leakage tends to run straight down, possible causes are a porous block, oil galley pipe plugs, oil filter
runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder block mating surfaces.
4. If no leaks are detected, pressurize the crankcase as outlined in the, Inspection (Engine oil Leaks in general)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
5. If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the crankshaft and watch forleakage. If a leak is detected between
the crankshaft and seal while slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the crankshaft seal surface is damaged.
The seal area on the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches that canbe polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks and
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is especially machined to complement the function of the rear oil seal.
6. For bubbles that remain steady with shaft rotation, no further inspection can be done until disassembled.

MANIFOLD - INTAKE
DESCRIPTION
The intake manifold is made of a composite material and features long runners which maximizes low end torque.
The intake manifold uses single plane sealing which consist of eight individual press in place port gaskets to prevent
leaks. Eight studs and two bolts are used to fasten the intake to the head.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - INTAKE MANIFOLD LEAKAGE
An intake manifold air leak is characterized by lower than normal manifoldvacuum. Also, one or more cylinders may
not be functioning.
WARNING: USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN THE ENGINE IS OPERATING. DO NOT STAND IN ADIRECT LINE
WITH THE FAN. DO NOT PUT YOUR HANDS NEAR THE PULLEYS, BELTS OR THE FAN. DO NOT WEAR
LOOSE CLOTHING.
1. Start the engine.
2. Spray a small stream of water at the suspected leak area.
3. If a change in RPM is observed the area of the suspected leak has been found.
4. Repair as required.
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Disconnect throttle and speed control cables.
4. Disconnect electrical connectors for the following components:
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
Throttle Position (TPS) Sensor
Coolant Temperature (CTS) Sensor
Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
5. Disconnect brake booster hose and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV)hose.
6. Disconnect generator electrical connections.
7. Disconnect air conditioning compressor electrical connections.
8. Disconnect left and right radio suppressor straps.
9. Disconnect and remove ignition coil towers (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/IGNITION COIL -
REMOVAL).
10. Remove top oil dipstick tube retaining bolt and ground strap.
11. Bleed fuel system (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
12. Remove fuel rail (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL RAIL - REMOVAL).
13. Remove throttle body assembly and mounting bracket.
14. Drain cooling system below coolant temperature level (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).