steering FORD MUSTANG 1969 Volume One Chassis
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: FORD, Model Year: 1969, Model line: MUSTANG, Model: FORD MUSTANG 1969Pages: 413, PDF Size: 75.81 MB
Page 70 of 413

03-01-05
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-05
type of equipment is used, follow the
installation and inspection instructions
provided by the equipment manufactu-
rer.
CASTER
Check the caster angle at each front
wheel.
The caster is the forward or rear-
ward tilt of the top of the wheel
spindle (Fig. 12). If the spindle tilts to
the rear, caster is positive. If the
spindle tilts to the front, caster is neg-
ative. The correct caster angle, or tilt,
is specified in Part 3-13.
On Mustang, Cougar, Fairlane,
Falcon and Montego vehicles, the
maximum caster difference for check-
ing purposes must not exceed one de-
gree.
If setting is necessary, then the
maximum difference must not exceed
1/2 degree. On all other vehicles, the
maximum caster difference must never
exceed 1/2 degree.
CAMBER
Check the camber angle at each
front wheel.
Camber is the amount the front
wheels are tilted at the top (Fig. 12).
If a wheel tilts outward, camber is
positive. If a wheel tilts inward, cam-
ber is negative. The correct camber
angle, or outward (positive) tilt is
specified in Part 3-13.
On Mustang, Cougar, Fairlane,
Falcon and Montego vehicles, the
maximum camber difference for
checking purposes must not exceed
one degree. If setting is necessary,
then the maximum difference must
not exceed 1/2 degree. On all other
vehicles, the maximum camber differ-
ence must never exceed 1/2 degree.
TOE-IN
Alignment height spacers should not
be used to check and adjust toe-in.
Toe-in should only be checked and ad-
justed after the caster and camber
have been adjusted to specifications.
Check the toe-in with the front
wheels in the straight-ahead position.
Run the engine so that the power
steering control valve will be in the
center (neutral) position (if so
equipped). Measure the distance be-
tween the extreme front and also be-
tween the extreme rear of both front
wheels. The difference between these
two distances is the toe-in or toe-out.
Correct toe-in, or inward pointing
of both front wheels at the front is
specified in Part 3-13.
FRONT WHEEL
TURNING ANGLE
When the inside wheel is turned 20
degrees, the turning angle of the out-
side wheel should be as specified in
Part 3-13. The turning angle cannot
be adjusted directly, because it is a re-
sult of the combination of caster,
camber, and toe-in adjustments and
should, therefore, be measured only
after these adjustments have been
made. If the turning angle does not
measure to specifications, check the
spindle or other suspension parts for a
bent condition.
ALIGNMENT
MARKS
G-1496-A
FIG. I?—Straight Ahead Position
Marks—Typical
POSITIVE
CAMBER
• •
NEGATIVE-*!
| ^*—
CASTER
ICL
OF TIRE
POSITIVE
CASTER
5r\
CA&U
ANGlE
F1216-A
FIG. 72—Caster and Camber
Angles
COMMON ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
After front wheel alignment factors
have been checked, make the neces-
sary adjustments. Do not attempt to
adjust front wheel alignment by bend-
ing the suspension or steering parts.
CASTER AND CAMBER
ADJUSTMENTS
FORD, MERCURY, METEOR,
THUNDERBIRDAND
CONTINENTAL MARK III
Caster and camber is adjusted by
loosening the bolts that attach the
upper suspension arm inner shaft to
the frame side rail, and moving the
inner shaft in or out in the elongated
bolt holes with the tool shown in Fig.
13.
The tool should be installed with
the tool pins in the frame holes and
the hooks over the upper arm inner
shaft. Then, tighten the tool hook nuts
snug before loosening the upper arm
inner shaft attaching bolts.
Caster
To adjust the caster angle, tighten
the tool front hook nut or loosen the
rear hook nut (Fig. 14) as required to
increase caster to the desired angle.
To decrease caster, tighten the tool
rear hook nut or loosen the front
hook nut as required (Fig. 14). The
caster angle can be checked without
tightening the inner shaft attaching
bolts.
Check the camber adjustment to
be sure it did not change during the
caster adjustment and adjust if neces-
FIG. 73—Camber and Caster
Adjusting Toolprocarmanuals.com
Page 71 of 413

03-01-06
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-06
SUSPENSION UPPER
ARM MOVEMENT
Front Bolt Outboard
Rear Bolt Outboard
Front Bolt Inboard
Rear Bolt Inboard
CASTER CHANGE
Tilt Backward
Increase Positive Caster
or
Decrease Negative Caster
Tilt Forward
Decrease Positive Caster
or
Increase Negative Caster
Tilt Forward
Decrease Positive Caster
or
Increase Negative Caster
Tilt Backward
Increase Positive Caster
or
Decrease Negative Caster
CAMBER CHANGE
Tilt Outward
Increase Positive Camber
or
Decrease Negative Camber
Tilt Inward
Decrease Positive Camber
or
Increase Negative Camber
FIG. 14—Caster and Camber Adjustments
sary. Then, tighten the upper arm
inner shaft attaching bolts to specifi-
cation. Remove the adjusting bar
(Tool T65P-3OOO-D) and the align-
ment spacers (Tool T65P-3O00-E or
F).
Camber
To adjust the camber angle, install
the tool as outlined above (Fig. 13).
Loosen both inner shaft attaching
bolts and tighten or loosen the hook
nuts to move the inner shaft inboard
or outboard as necessary with Tool
T65P-3OOO-D to increase or decrease
camber (Fig. 13). The camber angle
can be checked without tightening the
inner shaft attaching bolts.
COUGAR, FAIRLANE, FALCON,
MONTEGO, MUSTANG
Be sure all the equipment listed in
Equipment Installation is installed be-
fore adjusting the caster and camber.
Caster is controlled by the front
suspension strut (Fig. 15). To obtain
positive caster, loosen the strut rear
nut and tighten the strut front nut
against the bushing. To obtain nega-
tive caster, loosen the strut front nut
and tighten the strut rear nut against
the bushing.
Camber is controlled by the eccen-
tric cam located at the lower arm at-
tachment to the side rail (Fig. 13).
To adjust the camber, loosen the
camber adjustment bolt nut at the
rear of the body bracket. Spread the
body bracket at the camber adjust-
TER ADJUSTMENT NUTS
EAR INSULATOR
WASHER
FRONT ADJUSTMENT NUT
INNER SLEEVE
TURN NUTS
REARWARD
TO OBTAIN
POSITIVE
CASTER
OUTER SLEEVE
RONT INSULATOR
WASHER
CASTELLATED
NUT
TURN NUTS
FORWARD
TO OBTAIN
NEGATIVE
CASTER
NEGATIVE
CAMBER
SPREAD THIS MEMBER AT
LOWER ARM PIVOT
BUSHING
PRY AT THESE POINTS'
F1371-A
FIG. J5—Caster and Camber Adjustments
ment bolt area just enough to permit
lateral travel of the arm when the ad-
justment bolt is turned. Rotate the
bolt and eccentric clockwise from the
high position to increase camber or
counterclockwise to decrease camber.
After the caster and camber has
been adjusted to specification, torque
the lower arm eccentric bolt nut and
the strut front nut to specification.
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL
Preliminary Steps
1.
With the car properly positioned
and wheel alignment measuring equip-
ment properly installed, raise the hood
and scribe chalk marks around the
bolts and lock washers that secure theprocarmanuals.com
Page 72 of 413

03-01-07
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-07
upper arm shaft to the frame member
(Fig. 3, Part 3-2).
2.
Loosen the arm shaft attaching
bolts,
raise the front end of the vehicle
and lower it again. This will break the
arm shaft loose from the frame mem-
ber.
3.
With a pry bar, move the arm
shaft back into alignment with the
chalk marks made in Step 1, and
tighten the shaft attaching bolts. The
bolts should be tightened just enough
to hold the shaft in position without
preventing its being moved with the
pry bar.
Caster
1.
With the aid of a pry bar, move
the shaft in or out, as required, to
meet specifications. A movement of
approximately 3 /32 inch at either the
front or rear bolt location will change
the caster 1/2 degree. Inboard move-
ment of the front bolt, or outboard
movement of the rear bolt, will change
caster in the negative direction. Out-
board movement of the front bolt, or
inboard movement of the rear bolt,
will change caster in the positive di-
rection.
2.
When the caster is correct, tor-
que the shaft attaching bolts to speci-
fication and recheck the caster and
camber to insure that the readings
have not changed.
Camber
TURN DOWNWARD TO
INCREASE ROD LENGTH
TURN UPWARD
TO DECREASE
ROD LENGTH
TURN
DOWNWARD
TO DECREASE
ROD LENGTH
TURN UPWARD TO
INCREASE ROD LENGTH
LEFT-HAND SLEEVE
RIGHT-HAND SLEEVE
FIG. 16—Spindle Connecting Rod Adjustment
WHEN TOE-IN IS CORRECT
TURN BOTH CONNECTING ROD
SLEEVES UPWARD TO ADJUST
SPOKE POSITION
F1433-A
i URN BOTH CONNECTING ROD
SLEEVES DOWNWARD TO
ADJUST SPOKE POSITION
WHEN TOE-IN IS
NOT CORRECT
LENGTHEN LEFT ROD TO
INCREASE TOE-IN
SHORTEN RIGHT ROD
TO DECREASE TOE-IN
SHORTEN LEFT ROD
TO DECREASE TOE-IN
LENGHTEN RIGHT ROD
TO INCREASE TOE-IN
ADJUST BOTH RODS EQUALLY TO MAINTAIN NORMAL SPOKE POSITION
1.
With the aid of a pry bar, move
the shaft in or out, as required, to
meet specifications. A movement of
approximately 3/64 inch of the entire
shaft will change the camber 1/4 de-
gree.
Inboard movement will change
the camber in the negative direction.
Outboard movement will change the
camber in the positive direction.
2.
When the camber is correct, tor-
que the shaft attaching bolts to speci-
fication and recheck the camber and
caster to insure that the readings have
not changed. Remove all alignment
equipment and alignment spacers and
install the right and left side rail
bumpers.
TOE-IN AND STEERING
WHEEL SPOKE
POSITION ADJUSTMENTS
Check the steering wheel spoke po-
sition when the front wheels are in the
straight-ahead position. If the spokes
are not in their normal position, they
can be properly adjusted while toe-in
is being adjusted.
F1434-
A
f/G.77—Toe-in and Steering Wheel Spoke Alignment Adjustment—Typical
1.
Loosen the two ciamp bolts or
each spindle connecting rod sleeve
(Fig. 16).
2.
Adjust toe-in. If the steering
wheel spokes are in their normal posi-
tion, lengthen or shorten both rods
equally to obtain correct toe-in (Fig.
16).
If the steering wheel spokes are
not in their normal position, make the
necessary rod adjustments to obtain
correct toe-in and steering wheel
spoke alignment (Fig. 17).
3.
Recheck toe-in and the steering
wheel spoke position. If toe-in is cor-
rect and the steering wheel spokes are
still not in their normal position, turn
both connecting rod sleeves upward or
downward same number of turns to
move the steering wheel spokes (Fig.
16).
4.
When toe-in and the steering
wheel spoke position are both correct,
torque the clamp bolts on both con-
necting rod sleeves to specification
(Part 3-13). Lubricate clamp, bolts
and nuts prior to torquing to specifi-
cation. The sleeve position should not
be changed when the clamp bolts are
tightened.
WHEEL BALANCING
See the instructions provided with
the Rotunda Wheel Balancer.
Make certain that the brakes are
not dragging before attempting to spin
the wheels. Push the brake shoes into
the caliper to free the rotor.
LUBRICANT CHECKING
PROCEDURE
MANUAL STEERING GEAR
1.
Center the steering wheel.
2.
Remove the steering gear hous-
ing filler plug.procarmanuals.com
Page 73 of 413

03-01-08
Suspension
—
Steering,
Wheels
And
Tires
—
General Service
03-01-08
3.
Remove the lower (upper on
Mustang and Cougar) cover- to-
housing attaching bolt.
4.
With a clean punch or like in-
strument, clean out or push inward
the loose lubricant in the filler plug
hole and cover to housing attaching
bolt hole.
5.
Slowly turn the steering wheel to
the left stop, lubricant should rise
within the lower cover bolt hole; then
slowly turn the steering wheel to the
right stop, lubricant should rise within
the filler plug hole. If lubricant does
not rise in both the cover bolt hole
and the filler plug hole, add lubricant
until it comes out both holes during
this check.
6. Install the lower (upper on
Mustang and Cougar) cover- to-
housing attaching bolt and the filler
plug.
CLEANING
AND
INSPECTION
FRONT
END
GENERAL
INSPECTION
Do not check and adjust front
wheel alignment without first making
the following inspection for front-end
damage, or wear.
1.
Check for specified air pressures
in all four tires.
2.
Raise the front of the vehicle off
the floor. Shake each front wheel
grasping the upper and lower surfaces
of the tire. Check the front suspension
ball joints and mountings for loose-
ness,
wear, and damage. Check the
brake backing plate mountings. Tor-
que all loose nuts and bolts to specifi-
cation. Replace all worn parts as out-
lined in Part 3-2.
3.
Check the steering gear mount-
ings and all steering linkage connec-
tions for looseness. Torque all mount-
ings to specifications. If any of the
linkage is worn or bent, replace the
parts as outlined in Part 3-5.
4.
Check the front wheel bearings.
If any in-and-out free play is noticed,
adjust the bearings to specifications.
Replace worn or damaged bearings as
outlined in Part 3-12.
5.
Spin each front wheel with a
wheel spinner, and check and balance
each wheel as required.
6. Check the action of the shock
absorbers. If the shock absorbers are
not in good condition, the vehicle may
not settle in a normal, level position,
and front wheel alignment may be af-
fected.
WHEEL INSPECTION
Wheel hub nuts should be inspected
and tightened to specification at pre-
delivery. Loose wheel hub nuts may
cause shimmy and vibration. Elongat-
ed stud holes in the wheels may also
result from loose hub nuts.
Keep the wheels and hubs clean.
Stones wedged between the wheel and
drum and lumps of mud or grease can
unbalance a wheel and tire.
Check for damage that would affect
the runout of the wheels. Wobble or
shimmy caused by a damaged wheel
will eventually damage the wheel bear-
ings.
Inspect the wheel rims for dents
that could permit air to leak from the
tires.
UPPER BALL JOINT
INSPECTION
Ford,
Mercury,
Meteor,
Thunderbird,
Lincoln Continental
and
Continental Mark
III
1.
Raise the vehicle and place floor
jacks beneath the lower arms.
2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the
lower edge of the tire and move the
wheel in and out.
3.
As the wheel is being moved in
and out, observe the upper end of the
spindle and the upper arm.
4.
Any movement between the
upper end of the spindle and the upper
arm indicates ball joint wear and loss
of preload. If any such movement is
observed, replace the upper ball joint.
During
the
foregoing
check,
the
lower ball joint will
be
unloaded
and
may
move.
Disregard
all
such
move-
ment
of the
lower ball
joint.
Also,
do
not mistake loose wheel bearings
for a
worn ball
joint.
Cougar,
Fairlane,
Falcon,
Montego
and
Mustang
1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame
contact hoist or by floor jacks placed
beneath the underbody until the wheel
falls to the full down position as
shown in Fig. 18. This will unload the
upper ball joint.
2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as de-
scribed in Part 3-12.
3.
Attach a dial indicator to the
upper arm and position the indicator
so that the plunger rests against the
inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to
the upper arm ball joint.
4.
Grasp the tire at the top and
bottom, and slowly move the tire in
and out (Fig. 18). Note the reading
(radial play) on the dial indicator. If
MAXIMUM TOLERANCE
F
1500-A
FIG.
T8—Measuring Upper Ball
Joint Radial Play
MAXIMUM TOLERANCE
F14
35-A
FIG.
79—Measuring Lower Ball
Joint Radial Playprocarmanuals.com
Page 74 of 413

03-01-09
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-09
the reading exceeds specifications
(Part 3-13), replace the upper ball
joint.
LOWER BALL JOINT
INSPECTION
Ford,
Mercury, Meteor,
Thunderbird, Lincoln Continental
and Continental Mark III
1.
Raise the vehicle and place
jacks under the lower arms as shown
in Fig. 12. This will unload the lower
ball joints.
2.
Adjust the wheel bearings as des-
cribed in Part 3-12.
3.
Attach a dial indicator to the
lower arm and position the indicator
so that the plunger rests against the
inner side of the wheel rim adjacent to
the lower ball joint.
4.
Grasp the tire at the top and
bottom and slowly move the tire in
and out (Fig. 19). Note the reading
(radial play) on the dial indicator. If
the reading exceeds specifications
(Part 3-13), replace the lower ball
joint.
Cougar, Fairlane, Falcon,
Montego, Mustang
1.
Raise the vehicle on a frame
contact hoist or by floor jacks placed
beneath the underbody until the wheel
falls to the full down position.
2.
Ask an assistant to grasp the
lower edge of the tire and move the
wheel in and out.
3.
As the wheel is being moved in
and out, observe the lower end of the
spindle and the lower arm.
4.
Any movement between the
lower end of the spindle and the lower
arm indicates ball joint wear and loss
of preload. If any such movement is
observed, replace the lower arm.
During the foregoing check, the
upper ball joint will be unloaded and
may move. Disregard all such move-
ment of the upper ball joint. Also, do
not mistake loose wheel bearings for a
worn ball joint.
POWER STEERING GEAR
CLEANING
Disassembly and assembly of the
steering gear and. the sub-assemblies
must be made on a clean workbench.
As in repairing any hydraulically op-
erated unit, cleanliness is of utmost
importance. The bench, tools, and
parts must be kept clean at all times.
Thoroughly clean the exterior of the
unit with a suitable solvent and, when
necessary drain as much of the hy-
draulic fluid as possible. Handle all
parts very carefully to avoid nicks,
burrs,
scratches and dirt, which could
make the parts unfit for use.
Do not clean, wash or soak seals in
cleaning solvent.
INSPECTION
1.
Check the sector shaft contact
surface in the cover for wear. If worn,
replace the cover.
2.
Inspect the input shaft bearing
for cracked races and the balls for
looseness, wear, pitting, end play or
other damage. Check the fit of the
bearing on the input shaft. Replace
the bearing, if required.
3.
Inspect the valve housing for
wear, scoring or burrs.
4.
Inspect the tube seats in the
pressure and return ports in the valve
body for nicks, etc. If necessary, re-
move and replace.
5.
Check the sector shaft contact
surface in the housing for wear. If
worn, replace the bushing or the hous-
ing.
6. Check all fluid passages for ob-
struction or leakage.
7.
Inspect the steering gear housing
for cracks, stripped threads, and mat-
ing surfaces for burrs. Inspect the pis-
ton bore of the housing for scoring or
wear. If necessary, replace the hous-
ing.
8. Check the input shaft bearing
after installation to be sure that it ro-
tates freely.
9. If the valve spool is not free in
the valve housing, check for burrs at
the outward edges of the working
lands in the housing and remove with
a hard stone. Check the valve spool
for burrs and if burrs are found, stone
the valve in a radial direction only.
Check for freedom of the valve again.
10.
Check the piston rack teeth and
sector shaft teeth for nicks and burrs.
FLUSHING THE POWER
STEERING SYSTEM—ALL EXCEPT
LINCOLN CONTINENTAL AND
CONTINENTAL MARK III
Should it be necessary to replace an
inoperative power steering pump, the
need for flushing the steering system
is required when installing the new
pump.
1.
Remove the power steering pump
and remove the pulley as outlined in
Part 3-10.
2.
Install the pulley on a new
pump. Install the pump and connect
only the pressure hose to the pump
(Part 3-10).
3.
Place the fluid return line in a
suitable container and plug the reser-
voir return pipe.
4.
Fill the reservoir with lubricant
(C1AZ-19582-A).
5.
Disconnect the coil wire to pre-
vent the engine from starting and raise
the front wheels off the ground.
6. While approximately two quarts
of steering gear fluid are being poured
into the reservoir, turn the engine over
using the ignition key, at the same
time cycle the steering wheel from
stop to stop.
7.
As soon as all of the lubricant
has been poured in, turn off the igni-
tion key, and attach the coil wire.
8. Remove the plug from the reser-
voir return pipe, and attach the return
hose to the reservoir.
9. Check the reservoir fluid level; if
low, add fluid to the proper level. Do
not overfill.
10.
Lower the vehicle.
11.
Start the engine and cycle the
steering from stop to stop to expel
any trapped air from the system.
POWER STEERING PUMP—ALL
EXCEPT LINCOLN
CONTINENTAL AND
CONTINENTAL MARK III
CLEANING
Wash all parts (except seals) in a
Naptha or Chlorinated-type solvent
and dry with compressed air.
Punch or Rod
RELIEF VALVE PLUNGER
G1607-A
FIG.
20—Cleaning Pump Relief Valveprocarmanuals.com
Page 75 of 413

03-01-10
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-10
The following procedure should be
followed when cleaning the relief valve
which is a part of the pump valve as-
sembly.
1.
Using a punch or rod of suitable
diameter, apply an even pressure in a
straight line to the tip of the relief
valve pin (Fig. 20). Depress the valve
two or three times to exhaust the oil
which is trapped in the assembly. Do
not hammer on the valve pin or hous-
ing.
2.
Submerge the assembly in a con-
tainer of clean solvent. Again applying
an even pressure to the tip of the relief
valve pin, (a sudden strong force could
push the pin through the relief valve
spool) move the valve in and out sev-
eral times, thereby thoroughly flushing
the assembly. Pressure created within
the valve bore when the valve is moved
inward should force the cleaning fluid
out through the sensing orifice. If this
does not occur, the sensing orifice
should be cleaned with a piece of wire.
The valve must move freely and even-
ly. If the pin is bent or damaged, or if
the valve binds, the pump valve must
be replaced.
INSPECTION
The following describes the compo-
nents of the power steering pump
which must be replaced regardless of
condition and how to determine when
other components should be replaced.
The outlet fitting hex nut may be
reused if the corners of the hex are
not rounded. The housing bolts may
be reused if the threads are not dam-
aged.
All gaskets and seals must be re-
placed with new components except
the rotor shaft seal which should be
reused unless it was leaking.
The reservoir assembly may be
reused if the reservoir seal and gasket
areas are not damaged (dents, scratch-
es,
etc.). The soldered joints of the re-
turn and fill tubes must not be loose
or bent. Be sure to check for a broken
baffle.
The housing or housing assembly
may be reused if there is no damage
(scratches, etc.) at reservoir gasket,
outlet fitting or cover seal areas.
If the outlet fitting is damaged, the
pump housing must be replaced. The
pressure plate springs may be reused
providing they are not bent, broken or
have not taken a set.
Do not reuse the retainer end plate
if it is burred or damaged. The upper
pressure plate may be reused if there
is no scoring on the wear surface. It is
acceptable to polish the phosphate
coating.
The rotor and cam assembly can be
reused if there is no wear other than
the removal of the phosphate coating
on the cam contour. Do not disas-
semble the rotor and cam assembly.
Push the rotor part way out the cam
insert taking care not to let the slip-
pers and springs fall out. Check the
cam ID for scoring and burning.
Check the rotor faces and OD for
scoring and chipping. Do not attempt
to repair or refinish the lower and
upper pressure plates, cam or rotor
assembly. When wear or burning is
encountered, replace, them with new
components.
Install a new rotor and cam assem-
bly if the slippers are worn. Replace
the springs if they are bent or broken.
Polishing the phosphate coating of the
slipper sealing surface is permissable.
The rotor shaft can be reused if the
front and rear thrust faces, the bush-
ing diameter and the shaft seal diame-
ter are not excessively worn or scored.
The housing plate and bushing as-
sembly may be reused if all of the
threaded holes are not damaged
beyond repair and the bushing diame-
ter is not scored or worn .0005 inch
over the maximum dimension of .6897
inch. Threaded holes can be repaired
by drilling out the damaged threads
and installing a helicoil insert. If the
bushing is scored or excessively worn,
a new plate and bushing assembly
must be installed.
With Tool T69P-3D608-A (using a
dial indicator) check the squareness of
the fixed dowel pin in the plate (Fig.
21).
The pin must be square with the
adjacent surface within .001 inch per
inch through a 180 degree arch.
A bent or broken dowel pin can be
replaced as follows:
1.
Hold the plate assembly in a
horizontal position and grip at least
an inch of the dowel pin in a vise. Tap
the plate with a plastic or a rubber
hammer to pull the pin from the
plate.
2.
Insert the support guide (Tool
T69P-3D608-B) over a dowel pin (Fig.
22) and press the pin into the plate to
a height of 1.68 inch (See Fig. 23).
The support guide tool will serve as a
stop guide. Be careful not to bend the
new dowel pin during installation.
3.
Again use Tool T69P-3D608-A
(with a dial indicaator) to check the
dowel pin squareness as outlined
above.
POWER STEERING PUMP
INSPECTION—LINCOLN
CONTINENTAL AND
CONTINENTAL MARK III
1.
Wash all parts in clean solvent
and dry them with clean cloths or
compressed air.
2.
Inspect the rotor shaft for wear,
scoring, nicks, or burrs. Replace the
shaft if it is damaged or if the inner
keyway is damaged.
Tool
T69P-3D608-B
G1609-A
FIG. 22—Dowel Pin Insertion
Tool
T69P-3D608-A
G1608-A
FIG. 21—Dowel Pin Squareness
Check
FIG. 23 — Replacing Dowel Pinprocarmanuals.com
Page 76 of 413

03-01-11
Suspension — Steering, Wheels And Tires — General Service
03-01-11
3.
Inspect the rotor, rollers, cam
ring, pressure plate, cover, and bush-
ing in the pressure plate for wear or
scoring. If damaged, replacement of
the pump (less housing) is required.
4.
Make sure the inner faces of the
cover and the housing are free of
paint, nicks, or burrs. Check all fluid
passages for restrictions.
5.
Inspect the valving surfaces
(areas where the rotor and rollers con-
tact) for wear or scoring. Replace the
pressure plate or the cover if worn or
scored. Inspect the bushing in the
pressure plate for wear or scoring, and
replace the plate if necessary.
6. Inspect the control valve for
scores, nicks, or burred edges. Re-
place the valve if damaged. Do not dis-
assemble the valve. Check the valve
for free movement in the housing
bore.
7.
Inspect the tube seat in the hous-
ing. If damaged, remove it with an
E-Z-Out and install a new seat.
SHOCK ABSORBER CHECKS
All vehicles are equipped with hy-
draulic shock absorbers of the direct-
acting type and are nonadjustable and
nonrefillable. They cannot be repaired.
Before replacing a shock absorber,
check the action of the shock absor-
bers as follows:
ON VEHICLE TESTS
1.
Check the shock absorber to be
sure it is securely and properly in-
stalled. Check the shock absorber in-
sulators for damage and wear.
Replace any defective insulators and
tighten attachments to the specified
torque (on a shock absorber which in-
corporates integral insulators, replace
the shock absorbers).
2.
Inspect the shock absorber for
evidence of fluid leakage. A light film
of fluid is permissible. Be sure any
fluid observed is not from sources
other than the shock absorber.
Replace the shock absorber if leak-
age is severe.
3.
Disconnect the lower end of the
shock absorber. Extend and compress
the shock absorber as fast as possible,
using as much travel as possible.
Action should become smooth and
uniform throughout each stroke.
Higher resistance on extension than
on compression is a normal condition.
Faint swish noises are also normal.
Remove the shock absorber for a
bench test if action is erratic. If the
action is smooth, but the shock absor-
bers are suspected of being weak fol-
low step 4:
4.
Repeat step 3 on the mating
shock absorber installed on the oppo-
site side of the vehicle, and compare
results of both tests. If the action is
similar, it is unlikely that either shock
absorber is defective. Reconnect both
shock absorbers.
Replace the shock absorber having
the lower resistance. Ensure that the
part number of the replacement is the
same as that of the original shock ab-
sorber. The replacement shock absor-
ber resistance will appear to be higher
than either original due to initial fric-
tion of the rod seal.
BENCH TEST
With the shock absorber right side
up (as installed in vehicle), extend it
fully. Then turn the shock absorber
upside down and fully compress it.
Repeat this procedure at least three
times to ensure that any entrapped air
has been expelled. Now place the
shock absorber right side up in a vise,
and hand stroke the shock absorber as
described in On Vehicle Tests, step 3.
If action is not now smooth and uni-
form, install a new shock absorber.procarmanuals.com
Page 84 of 413

03-02-08
Suspension
03-02-08
IN-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS AND REPAIRS
HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS
Damage to steering linkage compo-
nents and front suspension struts may
occur if care is not exercised when po-
sitioning the hoist adapters of 2 post
hoists prior to lifting the vehicle.
If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the
vehicle, place the adapters under the
lower arms or the No. 1 crossmember.
Do not allow the adapters to contact
the steering linkage. If the adapters
are placed under the crossmember, a
piece of wood (2 x 4 x 16 inches)
should be placed on the hoist channel
between the adapters. This will pre-
vent the adapters from damaging the
front suspension struts.
UPPER BALL JOINT
REPLACEMENT
FORD, MERCURY,
METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,
CONTINENTAL MARK III
1.
Raise the vehicle high enough to
provide working space, and place a
support under the lower arm. If a
chain hoist or a jack that has a nar-
row contact pad is to be used on the
bumper to raise the vehicle, distribute
the load along the bumper by using a
steel plate 3 or 4 inches long as a con-
tact pad to prevent damaging the
bumper.
2.
Remove the wheel and tire.
3.
Drill a
1/8-inch
hole through
each upper ball joint retaining rivet.
Using a large chisel, cut off the rivets.
4.
Remove the upper arm suspen-
sion bumper.
5.
Remove the cotter pin and nut
from the upper ball joint stud.
6. Place a box wrench over the
lower end of the ball joint remover
tool, and position the tool as in Fig. 7.
The tools should seat firmly against
the ends of both studs, and not
against the lower stud nut.
7.
Turn the wrench until both studs
are under tension, and then, with a
hammer, tap the spindle near the
upper stud to loosen the stud from the
spindle. Do not loosen the stud with
tool pressure alone. Remove the ball
joint.
8. Clean the end of the arm, and
remove all burrs from the hole edges.
Check for cracks in the metal at the
holes,
and replace the arm if it is
cracked.
F1436-A
FIG. 7—Disconnecting Ball
Joints—Typical
9. Attach the new ball joint to the
upper arm. Use only the specified
bolts,
and nuts. Do not rivet the new
ball joints to the arm. Torque the nuts
to specification.
10 Install the upper arm suspension
bumper. Torque the nut to specifica-
tion.
11.
Position the ball joint stud in
the spindle bore, and torque the at-
taching nut to specification. Install a
new cotter pin.
12.
Install the wheel and tire.
13.
Remove the safety stands, and
lower the vehicle.
14.
Check and, if necessary, adjust
caster, camber, and toe-in. Whenever
any part of the front suspension has
been removed and installed, front
wheel alignment must be checked.
COUGAR, FAIRLANE,
FALCON, MONTEGO,
MUSTANG
1.
Position a support between the
upper arm and frame side rail as
shown in Figs. 8 and 9; then, raise the
vehicle and position safety stands.
2.
Remove the wheel and tire.
3.
Remove the cotter pin and nut
from the upper ball joint stud.
4.
Position the ball joint remover
tool as shown in Fig. 10. The tool
should seat firmly against the ends of
both studs, and not against the lower
stud nut. It may be necessary to re-
move the lower ball joint cotter pin if
it prevents the tool from seating on
the lower stud.
5.
Turn the tool with a wrench until
both studs are under tension, and
then, with a hammer, tap the spindle
near the upper stud to loosen the stud
F 1496-A
FIG. 8—Upper arm Support—Mustangprocarmanuals.com
Page 88 of 413

03-02-12
Suspension
03-02-12
ECCENTRIC
WASHER
F1504-A
FIG. 76 —Measuring Pinion Angle
specification whenever the rear axle
has been removed.
Before checking the drive shaft pin-
ion angle, alignment height spacer
(Tool T65P-3OOO-B or C) must be in-
stalled at a height of 4.30 inches (Fig.
14).
Checking Procedure
The checking and adjusting proce-
dure must be done with the weight of
the vehicle on the front and rear sus-
pension.
UPPER ARM
KET
ECCENTRIC
WASHER
AXLE HOUSING
E1761-A
FIG.
17
—
Pinion
Angle Adjustment
1.
Position the magnetized Tool
T68P-4602-A on a U-joint bearing
cap as shown in Fig. 15.
2.
With the tool suspended straight
down and the adjusting screw to the
left, adjust the dial on the tool until
the left-hand edge of the bubble is ex-
actly on the zero line.
3.
Position the vee magnet on the
drive shaft away from welds and bal-
ance weights (Fig. 15).
4.
Position the magnetized tool
(T68P-4602-A) on the vee magnet
with the adjusting screw to the left in
the same relative position as it was on
the bearing cap (Fig. 16).
5.
Read the position of the bubbles
left-hand edge on the scale to deter-
mine the drive shaft pinion angle. The
reading should be 3 1/2 degrees plus 1
degree on Ford, Mercury or Meteor
models, 7 1/4 degrees plus 3/4 degree
on Thunderbird or Continental Mark
III models.
Adjustment
If the pinion angle is not within
specifications, adjust the pinion angle
as follows:
The upper arm-to-axle housing bolt
and two eccentric washers form an ad-
justing cam mechanism (Fig. 17)
which will tilt the axle housing to the
required angle.
1.
Loosen the upper arm pivot bolt
nuts.
2.
If the angle is less than specifica-
tions,
rotate the adjusting cam for-
ward and recheck the angle. If the
angle is more than specification, ro-
tate the adjusting cam rearward and
recheck the angle.
3.
When the axle housing is adjust-
ed in such a way that the drive shaft
angle reading is within specification,
install new pivot bolt nuts and torque
to specification (Fig. 17).
4.
Lower the vehicle and road test
for proper axle operation.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
HOISTING INSTRUCTIONS
Damage to steering linkage compo-
nents and front suspension struts may
occur if care is not exercised when po-
sitioning the hoist adapters of 2 post
hoists prior to lifting the vehicle.
If a 2 post hoist is used to lift the
vehicle, place the adapters under the
lower arms or the No. 1 crossmember.
Do not allow the adapters to contact
the steering linkage. If the adapters
are placed under the crossmember, a
piece of wood (2 x 4 x 16 inches)
should be placed on the hoist channel
between the adapters. This will pre-
vent the adapters from damaging the
front suspension struts.
FRONT SPRING
REPLACEMENT
FORD, MERCURY,
METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,
CONTINENTAL MARK HI
Removal
1.
Raise the vehicle and support the
front end of the frame with jack
stands.
2.
Place a jack under the lower arm
to support it.
3.
Disconnect the lower end of the
shock absorber from the lower arm.
4.
Remove the bolts that attach the
strut and the rebound bumper to the
lower arm.
5.
Disconnect the lower end of the
sway bar stud from the lower arm.
6. Remove the nut and bolt that se-
cures the inner end of the lower arm
to the crossmember.
7.
Carefully lower the jack slowly
to relieve the spring pressure on the
lower arm, then remove the spring
(Fig. 18).
Installation
1.
Position the spring on the lower
arm so that the lower end properly
engages the seat.
2.
Raise the lower arm carefully
with a jack while guiding the inner
end to align with the bolt hole in the
crossmember. Insert the attaching bolt
in the rear of the crossmember andprocarmanuals.com
Page 95 of 413

03-02-19
Suspension
03-02-19
6. Raise the upper arm to free the
ball joint stud from the spindle. Wire
the upper end of the spindle to the un-
derbody to prevent damage to the
brake hose.
7.
Mark the position of the upper
arm shaft on the underbody member
to facilitate making caster and camber
adjustments after installation of the
upper arm.
8. Remove the suspension upper
arm-to-underbody attaching bolts,
lock washers, and attaching nuts.
Then, remove the upper arm.
Installation
1.
Position the upper arm shaft on
the underbody member. Line up the
shaft with the marks made before re-
moval of the arm.
2.
Install the attaching bolts and
lock washers. FABRICATE A
TOOL, AS SHOWN IN Fig. 27, to
hold the nut in place while starting the
attaching bolt into the nut. Remove
the tool; then, tighten the attaching
bolts to specification.
3.
Guide the ball joint stud into the
spindle. Install the attaching nut and
torque it to specification. Continue
tightening the nut to line up the cotter
pin hole. Install a new cotter pin.
4.
Install the wheel and tire, and
torque the wheel lug nuts to specifica-
tion.
5.
With the front end weight of the
car on the wheels, torque the bolts at
the ends of the upper arm shaft to
specification if the bushings were re-
placed.
6. Check the front wheel alignment.
FRONT WHEEL SPINDLE
FORD, MERCURY,
METEOR, THUNDERBIRD,
CONTINENTAL MARK III
Removal
1.
Raise the vehicle until the front
wheel clears the floor, and place a
support under the frame.
2.
Remove the hub cap or wheel
cover.
3.
If equipped with drum type
brakes—remove the wheel and tire
and brake drum as an assembly (Part
3-12). Remove the brake backing
plate attaching bolts and remove the
backing plate from the spindle. Wire
the backing plate to the underbody to
prevent damage to the brake hose.
1/16" GAUGE
-*.
STEEL (REFERENCE)
—3/16'
3/8'
1/2" DIAMETER PLUG WELD
F 1501-A
FIG. 27 -Upper Arm Shaft Installing Tool
4.
If equipped with disc brakes—re-
move the wheel and tire from the hub.
Remove 2 bolts and washers retaining
the caliper and brake hose to the
spindle. Remove the caliper from the
rotor and wire it to the underbody to
prevent damage to the brake hose.
Then, remove the hub and rotor from
the spindle (Part 3-12). Remove 3
bolts attaching the splash shield to the
spindle and remove the splash shield.
5.
Remove the steering connecting
rod from the spindle arm with tool
OTC462.
6. Remove the cotter pins from
both ball joint stud nuts, and loosen
the nuts one or two turns. Do not re-
move the nuts from the studs at this
time.
7.
Install the ball joint remover tool
between the upper and lower ball joint
studs (Fig. 7). The tool sho.uld seat
firmly against the ends of both studs
and not against the stud nuts.
8. Turn the tool nut with a wrench
until the tool places the studs under
tension, and, with a hammer, tap the
spindle near the stud to loosen them
in the spindle. Do not loosen the studs
in the spindle with tool pressure only.
9. Position a floor jack under the
lower control arm.
10.
Remove the ball joint stud nuts
and lower the lower arm enough to re-
move the spring and the spindle.
Installation
1.
Position the spindle to the lower
ball joint stud and install the attaching
nut. Torque the nut to specification.
Continue to tighten the nut until the
cotter pin hole is in line with the slots
in the nut. Then, install the cotter pin.
2.
Position the spring and raise the
lower arm and guide and upper ball
joint stud into the spindle hole and in-
stall the attaching nut. Torque the nut
to specification and install the cotter
pin as outlined in the preceeding step.
3.
Remove the floor jack from
under the lower arm.
4.
Attach the steering connecting
rod to the spindle and install the nut.
Torque the nut to specification. Con-
tinue to tighten the nut until the cotter
pin hole is in line with the slots in the
nut. Then, install the cotter pin.
5.
If equipped with drum type
brakes—Position the brake backing
plate to the spindle and install the at-
taching bolts. Torque the bolts to spe-
cification. Adjust the brakes as out-
lined in Part 2-2. Install the wheel,
tire,
and drum to the spindle and ad-
just the wheel bearings as outlined in
Part 3-12).
6. If equipped with disc brak-
es—Install the splash shield on the
spindle and torque the attaching bolts
to specification (Part 3-13). Install theprocarmanuals.com