check engine MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Manual PDF

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3-50 ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHALJL
F
1 s 93153QO2 :ig. 200 Camshaft, rocker arm and shaft as-
iemblies-2.01 SOHC ermine
3. Remove the accelerator cable bracket and po-
sition the cable aside.
4. Install lash adjuster retainer tools MD998443
or equivalent, to the rocker arm.
5. Remove the valve cover and semi-circular
packing.
6. Matchmark the distributor housing to the
cylinder head, and remove the distributor,
7. Remove the timing belt covers and the timing
belt.
8 Remove the camshaft sprocket.
9. Remove the carrier bolts and remove the
rocker arms, rocker shafts and bearing caps from the
engine as an assembly.
10. Remove the camshaft from the cylinder head.
11. Inspect the bearing journals on the camshaft
for excess wear or damage.
12. Measure the cam lobe height and compare to
the
desired readings.
13. Inspect the bearing surfaces in the cylinder
head.
14. Replace any components that are damaged or
show signs of excess wear,
To install:
15. Lubricate the camshaft journals and camshaft
with clean engine oil and install the camshaft in the
cylinder head.
16. Align the camshaft bearing caps with the ar-
row marks (depending on cylinder numbers) and in-
stall in numerical order,
17. Install the rocker shaft assembly to the cylin-
der head. Torque the bearing cap bolts from the cen-
ter outward, in three steps, unh a final torque of 15
ft. Ibs. (20 Nm) is reached.
18. Apply a coating of engine oil to the oil seal.
Using the proper size driver, press-frt the seal into
the cylinder head.
19. install the camshaft sprocket and torque re-
taining bolt to 65 ft. Ibs. (90 Nm).
20. Install the timing belt. 21. Ahgn the matchmarks and install the distrrbu- 8. Remove the timing belt covers and the timing
tor. belt assembly.
22. Remove the lash adjuster retaining tools.
23. Install the valve cover and all related parts
24. Connect the negative battery cable and run
engine to check for leaks,
25. Check and adjust ignition timing, if neces-
sary.
l.‘6L and 2.lJL DOHC Engines
6 See Figures 201 and 202
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the accelerator cable bracket and po-
sition the cable aside.
3. Remove the breather hose and disconnect the
PCV hose. 9. Remove the camshaft sprocket retainer bolt
while holding shaft stationary with an appropriate
wrench. Remove the sprocket from the shaft.
10. Remove the camshaft oil seal.
11. Remove both rocker arm shaft assemblies
from the head. Do not drsassemble the rocker arms
and rocker arm shaft assemblies.
12. Remove the camshaft from the cylinder head.
13. inspect the bearing journals on the camshaft,
cylinder head, and bearing caps.
To install:
14. Lubricate the camshaft journals and camshaft
with clean engine oil and install the camshaft in the
cylinder head.
4. Label and disconnect the spark plug cables.
5. Matchmark the distributor housing to the
cylinder head, and remove the distributor.
6. Remove the rocker cover.
7. Install lash adjuster retarner tools MD998443
or equivalent, to the rocker arm. 15. Install the rocker arm and shaft assemblies.
Tighten the rocker arm shaft retainer bolts to 21-25
ft. Ibs. (2935 Nm).
16 Apply a coating of engine oil to the oil seal.
Using the proper size driver, press-fit the seal into
the cylinder head.
17. Instal! camshaft sprocket and retainer bolt.
Tighten the bolts to 65 ft. Ibs. (90 Nm).
18. Install the hming belt and belt covers.
19. Align the matchmarks and install the distribu-
tor.
93153gO: :ig. 201 Camshaft and rocker arms-i.61
rnd 2.OL DOHC engines
r ,
w Camshaft sprocket side
ei i i ij
20. Remove the lash adjuster retaining tools,
21. Install the rocker cover using new gasket ma-
terial on mating surfaces,
22. Connect the spark plug cables.
23. Install the breather hose and connect the PCV
hose.
24. Connect the negative battery cable.
25. Run the engme at idle until normal operating
temperature is reached. Check idle speed and igni-
tion timing; adjust as required.
2.4L Engine
) See Figures 203 and 204
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure following
proper procedure.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Disconnect the accelerator cable, PCV hoses,
breather hoses, spark plug cables and the remove the
valve cover.
*Always rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise
direction. Make a mark on the back of the
timing belt indicating the direction of rotation
so it may be reassembled in the same direc-
tion if it is to be reused.
4. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise and align the
timing marks so that the No. 1 piston will be at TDC
of the compression stroke. At this time the timing
marks on the camshaft sprocket and the upper sur-
face of the cyhnder head should coincide, and the
dowel pin of the camshaft sprocket should be at the
upper side.
5 Remove the timing belt upper and lower cov-
ers.
6. Remove the camshaft timing belt.
7. Use a wrench between the No 2 and No. 3
journals to hold the camshaft; remove the camshaft
sprockets.
8 Loosen the bearing cap bolts in 2-3 steps.
Label and remove all camshaft bearing caps,
*If the bearing caps are difficult to remove,
use a plastic hammer to gently tap the rear
part of the camshaft.

ENGlNEANDENGlNEOVERHALiL 3-51
:ig. 203 Camshaft, rocker arm and shaft assemblies-2.41 engine 9315393'
Intake side Exhaust side
7923PG57 Fig. 204 Camshaft identification-2.41 en-
gine
9. Remove the intake and exhaust camshafts.
10. Remove the rocker arms and lash adjusters
*It is essential that all parts be kept in the
same order and orientation for reinstallation.
In order to prevent confusion during installa-
tion, be sure to mark and separate all parts.
To install:
11. Install the lash adjusters and rocker arms into
the cylinder head. Lubricate lightly with clean oil
prior to installation.
12. Lubricate the camshafts with heavy engine oil
and position the camshafts on the cylinder head.
13 Check the camshaft journals and lobes for
wear or damage. Also, check the cylinder head oil
holes for clogging. Visually inspect the rocker arm
roller and replace if dented, damaged or evidence of
seizure is evident. Check the roller for smooth rota-
tion. Replace If excess play or binding is present.
Also, inspect the valve contact surface for possible
damage or seizure. It is recommended that all rocker
arms and lash adjusters be replaced together.
*Do not confuse the intake camshaft with
the exhaust camshaft. The intake camshaft
has a split on the rear face for driving the ,
crank angle sensor.
14. Make sure the dowel pin on both camshaft
sprocket ends are located on the top.
15. Install the bearing caps. Tighten the caps in
sequence and rn 2 or 3 steps. No 2 and 5 caps are of
the same shape. Check the markings on the caps to
identify the cap number and intake/exhaust symbol. Only 1 (intake) or I? (exhaust) is stamped on No. 1
bearing cap Also, make sure the rocker arm is cor-
rectly mounted on the lash adjuster and the valve
stem end. Torque the retaining bolts to 15 ft. Ibs. (20
Nm).
16. Apply a coating of engine oil to the oil seal.
Using the proper size driver, press-fit the seal into
the cylinder head.
17. Install the camshaft sprockets. While holding
the camshaft at its hexagon, between number 2 and 3
journals tighten sprocket bolts to 58-72 ft. Ibs.
(80-l 00 Nm).
18. Install the timing belt, covers and related
components.
19. Install the valve cover, using new gasket, and
reconnect all related components
20. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
3.OL DOHC Engine
# See Figures 205 and 206
1. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
2. Disconnect negative battery cable.
3. Remove the intake manifold plenum.
4. Remove the timing belt cover and the timing
belt.
DO NOT rotate the crankshaft or camshafts
after the timing belt has been removed. If ro-
tated, severe internal engine damage will re-
sult from the pistons hitting the valves.
5. Remove the center cover, breather, PCV
hoses, and the spark plug cables.
6. Remove the rocker cover and the semi-circu-
lar packing.
7. Matchmark the position of the crankshaft po-
sition sensor at the rear of the camshaft, then remove
the sensor.
8. If equipped with a camshaft sensor, remove
the sensor from the front of the engine.
9 Being sure to hold the flats of the camshaft,
loosen the camshaft sprocket bolts.
10. Noting the positionmg and location of the
sprockets, remove the sprockets from the camshafts.
*Be sure to note the positioning of the knock
pin at the end of the camshafts for reinstalla-
tion purposes.
*Be sure to keep the valve train components
labeled and in proper order for reassembly.
11. Loosen the bearing cap bolts in 2-3 steps.
12. Label and remove all camshaft bearing caps.
*If the bearing caps are difficult to remove,
use a plastic hammer to gently tap the com-
ponents.
13. Mark the components and remove the intake
and the exhaust camshafts.
14. Remove the rocker arms and the lash ad-
justers. Be sure to note the location of the valve train
components for reinstallation purposes.
1 semblies-3.01 DOHC engine
I
Left bank
7923PG58 Fig. 206 Proper positioning of the camshaft knock pins-3.01 DOHC engine

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3-52 ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL
15. Check the camshaft journals for wear or dam-
age. Check the cam lobes for damage. Also, check
the cylinder head oil holes for clogging.
To install:
*Lubricate the valve train components with
clean engine oil.
16. Bleed and install the lash adjusters to the to
the original bores in the cylinder head.
17. Install the rocker arms to the cylinder head.
18. Lubricate the camshafts with clean engine oil
and position the camshafts on the cylinder head
Be sure to properly position the knock pins of
the camshaft to prevent valve to piston inter-
ference.
*Do not confuse the intake camshaft with
the exhaust camshaft. The intake camshaft
on the Diamante has a B or J stamped on the
hexagon depending on the application. The
exhaust camshaft on the Diamante has a D or
K stamped on the hexagon depending on ap-
plication.
-Install the bearing caps according to the
identification mark and cap number. Bearing
caps No. 2,3 and are marked as such. The
caps also are marked I for intake or E for ex-
haust.
19 Install the bearing caps. Tighten the caps in
sequence, gradually in 2 or 3 steps Caps 2,3 and 4
have a front mark. Install with the mark aligned with
the front mark on the cylinder head. Torque the re-
taining bolts for caps No. 2,3 and 4 to 8 ft. Ibs. (11
Nm) and torque the retaining bolts for the front and
rear caps to 14 ft. Ibs. (20 Nm).
20. Apply a coating of engine oil to the oil seals
and install the oil seals to the front and rear of the
camshafts.
21. Holding the flats of the camshaft, install and
tighten the sprocket bolts to 65 ft. Ibs. (90 Nm).
22. If removed, install the camshaft position sen-
sor and tighten the mounting bolts to 78 inch Ibs. (9
Nm).
23. Aligning the matchmark, install the crankshaft
position sensor at the rear of the camshaft and
tighten the mountrng nut to 7 ft. Ibs. (12 Nm).
24. Align the marks on the camshaft and crank-
shaft sprockets. Install the timing belt assembly.
25. Install the rocker cover and the semi-circular
packing.
26. Install the intake manifold plenum.
27. Install the spark plug cables, center cover,
breather and PCV hoses.
28. Connect the negative battery cable and check
for leaks.
3.OL SDHC Engine
ti See Figures 207, 208, 209, and 210
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable,
2. Rotate and position the engine to TDC of
compression stroke.
3. If removing the right side (front) camshaft,
matchmark the distributor rotor and distributor hous-
ing to the engine block and remove the distributor.
4. Remove the Intake manifold plenum stay
bracket. Fig. 207 Camshaft, rocker arm and shaft as-
iemblies-3.01 SDHC engine
Siit 7923'659 Fig. 208 Right bank camshafl identifica-
tion-3.01 SDHC engine
Right bank
Left bank
7923PG60 Fig. 209 Proper positioning of the
:amshafts-3.OL SDHC enoine

Tmng bolt side Armwmark(cql~ndertmad)
7923PG61
:ig. 210 Alignment of the rocker shafts and application of sealant-3.01 SDHC engine
5. Remove the distributor housing adapter and
,. ,.^.
bearmg caps, as an assembly 11. Remove the rocker arms, rocker shafts and
aiscara tne u-rmg.
^ -
6; Kemove the valve covers and the tlmmg belt.
7 Using camshaft sprocket holding tool
MB9g67 and MD998719 or equivalent, hold the
sprocket and loosen the bolt.
8. Remove the bolt and note the positioning of
the of the knock pin at the end of the camshaft and
remove the sprocket.
9. Install auto lash adjuster retainer tools
MD998443 or equivalent, on the rocker arms.
*Be sure to note the position of the rocker
arms, rocker shafts and bearing caps for re-
installation purposes.
10 Remove the camshaft bearing caps but do not
remove the bolts from the caps. 12. Remove the camshaft from the cylinder head.
13. Inspect the bearing journals on the camshaft,
cylinder head, and bearing caps.
To install:
*The right bank camshaft is identified by a
4mm slit at the rear end of the camshaft.
14. Lubricate the camshaft journals and camshaft
with clean engme oil and install the camshaft in the
cylinder head Be sure to properly position the knock
pin of the camshaft as noted during removal.
15. Apply sealer at the ends of the bearing caps
and install the rocker arms, rocker shafts and bearing
caps as an assembly Properly positron the arrows on
the bearing caps.

ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-53
16. Torque the bearing cap bolts in the following
sequence: No. 3, No. 2, No. 1 and No. 4 to 85 inch
Ibs. (10 Nm).
17. Repeat the sequence increasing the torque to
14 ft. Ibs. (20 Nm).
18. Remove the auto lash adjuster retainer tools
from the rocker arms.
19. Install the camshaft sprocket and bolt.
20. Using camshaft sprocket holding tool
MB9g67 and MD998719 or equivalent, hold the
sprocket and tighten the bolt to 65 ft. Ibs. (90 Nm).
21. Install the timing belt and valve covers.
22. Using a new O-ring, install the distributor ex-
tension housing.
23. Install the intake manifold plenum stay
bracket.
24. Install the distributor assembly Be sure to
align the rotor and distributor housing matchmarks.
25. Connect the negative battery cable and check
for leaks.
3.5L Engine
+ See Figures 211 and 212
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the timing belt. Refer to the timing
belt procedure in this section.
3. Remove the rocker arm cover.
4. Install the lash adjuster clips on the rocker
arms, then loosen the bearing cap bolts. Do not re-
move the bolts from the bearing caps.
5. Remove the rocker arms, shafts and bearing
caps as an assembly.
6. Remove the camshafts.
To install: 7. Lubricate the camshafts with engine oil and
position them on the cylinder heads.
8. Position the dowel Dins as shown in the
drawing.
9. Install the bearing caps/rocker arm assem-
blies. Tighten the bolts to 23 ft. Ibs. (31 Nm).
10. hstall the rocker arm cover using a new gas-
ket.
11. Install the timing belt and remaining compo-
nents Refer to the timing belt procedure in this sec-
tion.
12. Connect the negative battery cable.
INSPECTION
Camshaft Lobe Liff
Camshaft lobe lift is the amount (measured in
inches or millimeters) that the camshaft is capable of
LIFTING the valve train components in order to open
the valves. The lobe lift is a measure of how much
taller the “egg shaped” portion of the camshaft lobe
is above the base or circular portion of the shaft lobe.
Lift is directly proportional to how far the valves can
open and a worn camshaft (with poor lobe lift) cannot
fully open the valves. The lobe lift therefore can be
directly responsible for proper or poor engine perfor-
mance.
Lobe lift can be measured in 2 ways, depending
on what tools are available and whether or not the
camshaft has been removed from the engine. A dial
gauge can be used to measure the lift with the
camshaft installed, while a micrometer is normally
only used once the shaft has been removed from the
engine.
10 Rocker arm shaft
11 Lash ad,uster
12 Rocker arm C
13 Rocker arm six,,
14 Lash adluster
15 Thrust case
16 orng
17 Camshan
:ig. 211 Exploded view of the camshaft mounting-3.51 engine 1923PGD
Rear bank Front bank
7923PGD4 Fig. 212 Camshaft dowel position during in-
stallation-3.51 engine
DIAL GAUGE METHOD
Lobe lift may be checked with the camshaft in-
stalled. In all cases, a dial gauge is positroned some-
where on the valve train (pushrod, lifter, or camshaft
itself) and the camshaft is then turned to measure the
lift.
Check the lift of each lobe in consecutive order
and make a note of the reading.
1. Remove the valve cover for access to the
camshaft.
2. Install a dial indicator so that the actuating
point of the indicator is directly placed on the
camshaft.
*A remote starter can be used to turn the
engine over during the next steps. If a re-
mote starter is not available, remove the
spark plugs in order to relieve engine com-
pression, and turn the engine over using a
large wrench or socket on the crankshaft
damper bolt. BE SURE to only turn the engine
in the normal direction of rotation.
3. Turn the crankshaft over until the tappet is on
the base circle of the camshaft lobe.
4. Zero the dial indicator. Continue to rotate the
crankshaft slowly until the pushrod (or camshaft
lobe) is in the fully raised position.
5. Compare the total lift recorded on the dial indi-
cator with the elevation specification shown in the
Engine Specification chart.
To check the accuracy of the original indicator
reading, continue to rotate the crankshaft until the in-
dicator reads zero. If the lift on any lobe is below
specified wear limits listed, the camshaft and the
valve tappets must be replaced.
6. Install the valve cover(s).
MICROMETER
) See Figure 213
A micrometer may used to measure camshaft lobe
lift, but this is usually only after it has been removed
from the engine. Once the valve cover is removed
I
@
Fig. 213 Camshaff lobe IIR Is measured In

3-54 ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHALJL
from the, access may be possible (though a little
awkward) to measure the camshaft lobes using a mi-
crometer
In any case, two measurements are necessary for
each lobe. Measurement Y or the total LOBE HEIGHT
and measurement X or the total LOBE WIDTH. To
find the lobe lift, you simply subtract X from Y (sub-
tract the width from the height).
Note each measurement, then make your calcula-
tion to determine the lift. Note the final results and re-
peat the process on the remaining camshaft lobes.
Finally, you should compare your results to the spec-
ifications charts and decide if a new camshaft is in
your future.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
2.OL and 2.4L Engines
p See Figure 214
*A special oil seal guide tool, 18998285,
and a plug cap socket tool, MD998182, or ex-
act equivalents are needed to complete this
operation.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Drain the engine oil.
The EPA warns that prolonged contact with
used engine oil may cause a number of skin
disorders, including cancer! You should
make every effort to minimize your exposure
to used engine oil. Protective gloves should
be worn when changing the oil. Wash your
hands and any other exposed skin areas as
soon as possible after exposure to used en-
gine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand
cleaner should be used.
93153g3
:ig. 214 Exploded view of the balance shaf
assemblies-2.01 and 2.4L enoines
4. Remove the oil filter, oil pressure switch, oil
gauge sending unit, oil filter mounting bracket and
gasket.
5. Remove engine oil pan, oil screen and gas-
ket.
6. Remove the relief plug, gasket, relief spring
and relref plunger.
7. Lower the vehicle.
8. Using the proper equipment, support the
weight of the engine.
9. Remove the front engine mount bracket and
accessory drive belt,
10. Remove the timing belts and sprockets.
11. Using special tool MD998162, remove the
plug cap in the engine front cover.
12. Remove the plug on the side of the engine
block. Insert a Phillips screwdriver with a shank di-
ameter of 0.32 in. (8mm) into the plug hole. This will
hold the silent shaft.
13. Remove the driven gear bolt that secures the
oil pump driven gear to the silent shaft.
14. Remove and tag the front cover mounting
bolts. Note the lengths of the mounting bolts as they
are removed for proper installation.
15. Remove the front case cover and oil pump
assembly. If necessary, the silent shaft can come out
with the cover assembly.
16. Remove the silent shaft oil seals, the crank-
shaft oil seal and front case gasket
17. Remove the silent shafts and inspect as fol-
lows:
a. Check the oil holes in the shaft for clog-
ging.
b. Check journals of the shaft for seizure,
damage and contact with bearing. If there is any-
thing wrong with the journal, replace the silent
shaft bearing, silent shaft or front case.
c. Check the silent shaft oil clearance. If the
clearance is beyond the specifications, replace
the silent shaft bearing, silent shaft or front case.
The specifications for oil clearances are as fol-
lows
Right shaft l Front-0.0012-0.0024 in. (0.030.06mml l Rear+0.0008-0.0021 in. (6.02-O 05mm) Left shaft l Front-0.002&0.0036 in. (0.05-0.09mm) l Rear-O.0017-O.0033 in. (0.04-0.08mm) To install: 18. Lubricate the bearing surface of the shaft and
the bearing journals with clean engine oil. Carefully
install the silent shafts to the block.
19. Clean the gasket material from the mating
surface of the cylinder block and the engine front
cover. Install new gasket in place.
20. Install the oil pump drive gear and driven
gear to the front case, lining up the timing marks.
21. Lubricate the gears with clean engine oil. In-
stall the oil pump cover, with new gasket in place and
tighten the mounting bolts to 13 ft. Ibs. (18 Nm).
22. Using proper size driver, install the crankshaft
oil seal into the front engine case.
23. Using the proper size socket wrench, press in
the silent shaft oil seal into the front case.
24. Place pilot tool MD998285 or equivalent,
onto the nose of the crankshaft. Apply clean engine
oil to the outer circumference of the pilot tool.
25. Install the front case onto the engine block
and temporarily tighten the flange bolts (other than
those for tightening the filter bracket). 26. Mount the oil filter bracket with new gasket in
place. Install the 4 bolts with washers and tighten to
16 ft Ibs. (22 Nm).
27. Insert the Phillips screwdriver into the hole
on the side of the engine block.
28. Secure the oil pump driven gear onto the left
silent shaft by tightening the driven gear flange bolt
to 29 ft. Ibs. (40 Nm).
29. Install a new O-ring onto the groove in the
front case. Using special socket tool, install and
tighten the plug cap to 20 ft. Ibs (27 Nm).
30. Install the oil pump relief plunger and spring
into the bore in the oil filter bracket and tighten to 36
ft. Ibs. (50 Nm). Make sure a new gasket is in place.
31. Clean both mating surfaces of the oil pan and
the cylinder block.
32. Apply sealant in the groove in the oil pan
flange, keeping towards the inside of the bolt holes.
The width of the sealant bead applied is to be about
0.16 in. (4mm) wide.
*After applying sealant to the oil pan, do
not exceed 15 minutes before installing the
oil pan.
33. Install the oil pan to the engine and secure
with the retainers. Tighten bolts to 6 ft. Ibs. (8 Nm).
34. Install the oil pressure gauge unit and the oil
pressure switch. Attach the electrical harness con-
nector
35. Install new oil filter and fill engine with clean
engine oil.
36. Install the timing belts and all related items,
*The timing of the oil pump sprocket and
connected silent shaft can be incorrect, even
with the timing mark aligned. Make certain
that all special timing belt installation proce-
dures are followed to ensure proper orienta-
tion of the silent shafts.
37. Install any remaining components removed
during disassembly.
38. Connect the negative battery cable and start
the engine.
39. Check for proper timing and inspect for leaks.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
p See Figure 215
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the transaxle from the vehicle, as
outlined in Section 7.
3. Remove the flywheel/driveplate assembly.
4. Remove the rear engine plate and the bell-
housing cover.
5. If the crankshaft rear oil seal case is leaking,
remove it. Otherwise, just remove the oil seal. Some
engines have a separator that should also be re-
moved.
To install: 6. Lubricate the inner diameter of the new seal
with clean engine oil.
7. Install the oil seal in the crankshaft rear oil
seal case using tool MD998376 or equivalent. Press
the seal all the way in without tilting it. Force the oil
separator into the oil seal case so the oil hole in the
separator is downward.

ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-55
8. Run a bead of sealer along any seams be-
tween the seal case and block. Install the seal case
with a new gasket.
9. Install the flywheel/driveplate and transaxle.
10. Connect the negative battery cable and check
for leaks.
11. Adjust oil level as necessary.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION To lnstell:
7. Coat the threads of the driveplate/flywheel re-
taining bolts with thread locking compound.
8. Position the driveplatelflywheel on the crank-
shaft flange.
9. On automatic transaxle equipped models, in-
stall the driveplate adapter.
10. Install and tighten the bolts, in a alternating
star pattern, to the following specifications:
l 1.5L engine: 98 ft. Ibs. (135 Nm) l 1.6L, 2.01 and 2.4L engines: 94-101 ft.
Ibs. (130-140 Nm)
al drive plate and rear b See Figure 215
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the transaxle, as outlined in Section
7,
3. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove
the clutch disc and pressure plate. Refer to Section 7.
4. Mark the position of the flywheel/driveplate
on the crankshaft and remove the retaining bolts.
5. On automatic transaxle equipped models, re-
move the driveplate adapter.
6. Remove the flywheel/driveplate from the en-
gine.
l 1.81 engine: 72 ft. Ibs. (100 Nm) l 3.OL and 3.5L engines: 53-56 ft. Ibs.
(72-76 Nm)
11. If equipped with a manual transaxle, install
the clutch and pressure plate.
12. Install the transaxle. Refer to Section 7.
13. Connect the negative battery cable.
healthy supply of penetrating oil and rags is
highly recommended.
Your vehicle must be raised and supported safely to the back of the vehicle. On dual exhaust systems,
remember to insoect both sides of the vehicle. Check
the complete exhaust system for open seams, holes
loose connections, or other deterioration which could + See Figures 216 thru 222
*Safety glasses should be worn at all times
when working on or near the exhaust system.
Older exhaust systems will almost always be
covered with loose rust particles which will
shower you when disturbed. These particles
are more than a nuisance and could injure
your eye. to inspect the exhaust system properly. Placing 4
safety stands under the vehicle for support should
provide enough room for you to slide under the vehi-
cle and inspect the system completely. Start the in-
spection at the exhaust manifold or turbocharger pipe
where the header pipe is attached and work your way
DO NOT perform exhaust repairs or inspec-
tion wtth the engine or exhaust hot. Allow thr
system to cool completely before attempting
any work. Exhaust systems are noted for
sharp edges, flaking metal and rusted bolts.
Gloves and eye protection are required. A
m3p73 Fig. 216 Cracks in the muffler are a guar-
anteed leak Fig 217 Check the muffler for rotted spot
Fig. 219 Cheek for overstretched or torn ex-
welds and seams
haust hangers
fm3p77 Fig. 216 Make sure the exhaust components
are not contacting the body or suspension
lcca3P78

ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-57
Anything that generates heat and/or friction WIII
eventually burn or wear out (for example, a light bulb
generates heat, therefore its life span is limited). With
this in mind, a running engine generates tremendous
amounts of both; friction is encountered by the mov-
ing and rotating parts inside the engine and heat is
created by friction and combustion of the fuel How-
ever, the engine has systems designed to help reduce
the effects of heat and friction and provide added
longevrty. The oiling system reduces the amount of
friction encountered by the moving parts inside the
engine, while the cooling system reduces heat cre-
ated by friction and combustion If either system is
not maintained, a break-down will be inevitable.
Therefore, you can see how regular maintenance can
affect the service life of your vehicle, If you do not
drain, flush and refill your cooling system at the
proper intervals, deposits WIII begin to accumulate in
the radiator, thereby reducing the amount of heat it
can extract from the coolant The same applies to
your oil and filter; If it is not changed often enough it
becomes laden with contaminates and is unable to
properly lubricate the engine. This increases friction
and wear.
There are a number of methods for evaluating the
condition of your engine. A compression test can re-
veal the condition of your pistons, piston rings,
cylinder bores, head gasket(s), valves and valve
seats. An oil pressure test can warn you of possible
engine bearing, or oil pump failures. Excessrve oil
consumption, evidence of oil in the engine air intake
area and/or bluish smoke from the tailpipe may indi-
cate worn piston rings, worn valve guides and/or
valve seals. As a general rule, an engine that uses no
more than one quart of oil every 1000 miles is in
good condition. Engines that use one quart of oil or
more in less than 1000 miles should first be checked
for oil leaks. If any oil leaks are present, have them
fixed before determining how much oil is consumed
by the engine, especrally if blue smoke is not visible
at the tailpipe
COMPRESSION TEST
# See Figure 226
tccs3801 Fig. 226 A screw-in type compression gauge
is more accurate and easier to use without
an assistant
A noticeable lack of engine power, excessive oil
consumption and/or poor fuel mileage measured
over an extended period are all indicators of internal
engine wear. Worn piston rings, scored or worn
cylinder bores, blown head gaskets, sticking or burnt
valves, and worn valve seats are all possible culprits.
A check of each cylinders compression WIII help lo-
cate the problem.
*A screw-in type compression gauge is
more accurate than the type you simply hold
against the spark plug hole. Although it takes
slightly longer to use, it’s worth the effort to
obtain a more accurate reading.
1 Make sure that the proper amount and vis-
cosity of engine oil is in the crankcase, then ensure
the battery is fully charged.
2. Warm-up the engine to normal operating
temperature, then shut the engine
OFF. 3. Disable the ignition system.
4. Label and disconnect all of the spark plug
wires from the plugs,
5. Thoroughly clean the cylinder head area
around the spark plug ports, then remove the spark
plugs.
6. Set the throttle plate to the fully open (wide-
open throttle) position You can block the accelerator
linkage open for this, or you can have an assistant
fully depress the accelerator pedal.
7. Install a screw-in type compression gauge
into the No. 1 spark plug hole until the fitting is snug.
Be careful not to crossthread the spark plug
hole.
8. According to the tool manufacturers instruc-
tions, connect a remote starting switch to the starting
circuit.
9. With the ignition switch in the
OFF position,
use the remote starting switch to crank the engine
through at least five compression strokes (approxi-
mately 5 seconds of cranking) and record the highest
reading on the gauge
10. Repeat the test on each cylinder, cranking the
engine approximately the same number of compres-
sion strokes and/or time as the first.
11. Compare the hrghest readings from each
cylinder to that of the others. The indicated compres-
sion pressures are considered within specifications if
the lowest reading cylinder is within 75 percent of the
pressure recorded for the highest reading cylinder
For example, if your highest reading cylinder pres-
sure was 150 psi (1034 kPa), then 75 percent of that
would be 113 psi (779 kPa). So the lowest reading
cylinder should be no less than 113 psi (779 kPa).
12. If a cylinder exhibits an unusually low com-
pression reading, pour a tablespoon of clean engine
oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and
repeat the compression test. If the compression rises
after adding oil, it means that the cylinder’s piston
rings and/or cylinder bore are damaged or worn, If
the pressure remains low, the valves may not be seat-
ing properly (a valve job is needed), or the head gas-
ket may be blown near that cylinder. If compression in any two adjacent cylinders is low, and if the addi-
tion of oil doesn’t help raise compression, there is
leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant in the
combustion chamber, combined with blue or con-
stant white smoke from the tailpipe, are symptoms of
this problem. However, don’t be alarmed by the nor-
mal white smoke emitted from the tailpipe during en-
gine warm-up or from cold weather driving. There
may be evidence of water droplets on the engine dip-
stick and/or oil droplets in the cooling system if a
head gasket is blown.
OIL PRESSURETEST
Check for proper oil pressure at the sending unit
passage with an externally mounted mechanical oil
pressure gauge (as opposed to relying on a factory
Installed dash-mounted gauge). A tachometer may
also be needed, as some specifications may require
running the engine at a specific rpm.
1. With the engine cold, locate and remove the oil
pressure sending unit.
2. Followrng the manufacturers instructions,
connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge and, if nec-
essary, a tachometer to the engine.
3 Start the engine and allow it to idle.
4 Check the oil pressure reading when cold and
record the number. You may need to run the engine
at a specified rpm, so check the specifications,
5. Run the engine until normal operating temper-
ature is reached (upper radiator hose will feel warm)
6. Check the oil pressure reading again with the
engine hot and record the number. Turn the engine
OFF. 7. Compare your hot oil pressure reading to that
given in the chart If the reading is low, check the
cold pressure reading against the chart. If the cold
pressure IS well above the specification, and the hot
reading was lower than the specification, you may
have the wrong viscosity oil in the engine. Change
the oil, making sure to use the proper grade and
quantity, then repeat the test.
Low oil pressure readings could be attributed to
internal component wear, pump related problems, a
low oil level, or oil viscosity that is too low. High oil
pressure readings could be caused by an overfilled
crankcase, too htgh of an oil viscosity or a faulty
pressure relief valve.
Now that you have determined that your engine is
worn out, you must make some decisions. The ques-
tion of whether or not an engine IS worth rebuilding
is largely a subjective matter and one of personal
worth. Is the engine a popular one, or IS it an obso-
lete model? Are parts available? Will it get acceptable
gas mileage once It is rebuilt? Is the car its being put
into worth keeping? Would it be less expensive to
buy a new engine, have your engine rebuilt by a pro,
rebuild it yourself or buy a used engine from a sal-
vage yard? Or would It be simpler and less expensive
to buy another car? If you have considered all these
matters and more, and have still decided to rebuild
the engine, then it is time to decide how you will re-
build it.

3-60 ENGINE/
-w
remove any covers remaining on the engine such as
on today’s automobiles: the Overhead Valve (OHV)
and the Overhead Camshaft (OHC). The latter can
also be broken down into two subgroups: the Single the rocker arm, front or timing cover and oil pan.
Overhead Camshaft (SOHC) and the Dual Overhead
Camshaft (DOHC). Generally, if there is only a single
camshaft on a head. it is iust referred to as an OHC Some front covers may require the vibration damper
and/or crank pulley to be removed beforehand. The
idea is to reduce the engine to the bare necessities
(cylinder head(s), valve train, engine block, crank-
shaft, pistons and connecting rods), plus any other
‘in block’ components such as oil pumps, balance
shafts and auxiliary shafts.
Finally, remove the cylinder head(s) from the en-
gine block and carefully place on a bench. Disassem-
bly instructions for each component follow later in
this section.
There are two basic types of cylinder heads used
Most cylinder heads these days are made of an
aluminum alloy due to its light weight, durability and
L--L I _--- 1^- _..^ I:,:^^ I I ^...^. .^_ ^^^I :_-_ ..^^ ,L- same environment. The same goes for any other unchanged. One aspect to pay attention to is careful
component on the cylinder head. Think of it as an in- labeling of the parts on the dual camshaft cylinder
“’ surance policy against future problems related to that head. There will be an intake camshaft and followers
component. as well as an exhaust camshaft and followers and
Unfortunately, the only way to find out which com- they must be labeled as such. In some cases, the
ponents need replacing, is to disassemble and care- components are identical and could easily be in-
fully check each piece. After the cylinder head(s) are stalled incorrectly. DO NOT MIX THEM UP! Deter-
disassembled, thoroughly clean all of the compo- mining which is which is very simple; the intake
nents. camshaft and components are on the same side of
DISASSEMBLY the head as was the intake manifold. Conversely, the
exhaust camshaft and components are on the same
side of the head as was the exhaust manifold.
ti See Figures 237 and 238
Whether it is a single or dual overhead camshaft Cup Type Camshaft Followers
cylinder head, the disassembly procedure is relatively 6 See Figures 239, 240, and 241
t “” ““’ 1 Most cylinder heads with cup type camshaft fol-
1 1 head. Also, an engine with an OHV cylinder head is j:, ’
I also known as a pushrod engine. : .; :-,
_I lowers will have the valve spring, retainer and locks
recessed within the followers bore. You will need a
C-clamp style valve spring compressor tool, an OHC
spring removal tool (or equivalent) and a small mag-
net to disassemble the head.
1. If not already removed, remove the camshaft(s)
and/or followers, Mark their positions for assembly.
2. Position the cylinder head to allow use of a C-
clamp style valve spring compressor tool.
IIRN il~llSlt?l ~Lldll~l~S. IlUWttVtJ, MS1 11011 W8S lilt: material of choice in the past, and is still used on
many vehicles today. Whether made from aluminum
or iron, all cylinder heads have valves and seats.
Some use fwo valves per cylinder, while the more hi-
tech engines will utilize a multi-valve configuration
using 3‘4 and even 5 valves per cylinder. When the
valve contacts the seat, it does so on precision ma-
chined surfaces, which seals the combustion cham-
ber, All cylinder heads have a valve guide for each
valve. The auide centers the valve to the seat and al-
lows it to move up and down within it. The clearance
between the valve and guide can be critical. Too
much clearance and the engine may consume oil,
lose vacuum and/or damaae the seat. Too little. and
the valve can stick in the guide causing the engine to
run poorly if at all, and possibly causing severe dam-
age. The last component all cylinder heads have are
valve springs. The spring holds the valve against its
seat. It also returns the valve to this position when
the valve has been opened by the valve train or
camshaft. The spring is fastened to the valve by a re-
tainer and valve locks (sometimes called keepers).
Aluminum heads will also have a valve spring shim
to keep the spring from wearing away the aluminum. Fig, 237 Exploded view of a valve, seal,
1 cylinder head ----r- 1 spring, retamer and locks from an OHC
An ideal method of rebuilding the cylinder head
would involve replacing all of the valves, guides,
seats, springs, etc. with new ones. However, depend-
ing on how the engine was maintained, often this is
not necessary. A major cause of valve, guide and seat
wear is an improperly tuned engine. An engine that is
~~f~t~~ rich, will often wash the lubricating oil
out ofthe guide with gasoline, causing it to wear
~~fdfy. lonely, an engine which is running too
lean wifl pface higher combustion temperatures on
Me valves and seats allowing them to wear or even
bum. Springs fall victim to the driving habits of the
f~~iduaf. A driver who often runs the engine rpm to
tfre redfine will wear out or break the springs faster
then one tfrat stays well below it. Unfortunately,
mileage takes it tot1 on all of the parts. Generally, the
valves, guides, springs and seats in a cylinder head
can be machined and re-used, saving you money.
.However, if a valve is burnt, it may be wise to replace
all of the valves, since they were all operating in the oi a multi-valve cylinder
t has 2 intake
and 2 ex-
At is preferred to position the cylinder head lasket’surtace facing you with tee valve
springs facing the opposite direction and the
lead laying horizontal.
3. With the OHC spring removal adapter tool po-
,itioned inside of the follower bore, compress the
alve spring using the C-clamp style valve spring
:ompressor.
tcca3p51 fig. 239 C-clamp type spring compressor
and an OHC spring removal tool (center) for
cup type followers
Fig. 240 Most cup type follower cylinder
/ heads retain the camshaft using bolt-on
bearing caps

.
3-62 ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL
lge. To accurately inspect them, you will need some
,pecialized tools:
l A O-l in. micrometer for the valves l A dial indicator or inside diameter gauge for
he valve guides
l A spring ressure test gau e
If you do no P Yl have access to t e proper tools,
‘ou may want to bring the components to a shop
hat does.
lalves
1 See Figures 251 and 252
The first thing to inspect are the valve heads. Look
E :losely at the head, margin and face for any cracks,
rxcessive wear or burning. The margin is the best
)lace?o look for burning. It should have a squared E
c
edge with an even width all around the diameter.
When a valve burns, the margin will look melted and
the edges rounded. Also inspect the valve head for
any signs of tulipping. This will show as a lifting of
the edges or dishing in the center of the head and will
usually not occur to all of the valves. All of the heads
should look the same, any that seem dished more
than others are probably bad. Next, inspect the valve
lock grooves and valve tips. Check for any burrs
around the lock grooves, especially if you had to file
them to remove the valve. Valve tips should appear
flat, although slight rounding with high mileage en-
gines is normal. Slightly worn valve tips will need to
be machined flat. last, measure the valve stem diam-
eter with the micrometer. Measure the area that rides
within the guide, especially towards the tip where
most of the wear occurs. Take several measurements along its length and compare them to each other.
Wear should be even along the length with little to no
taper. If no minimum diameter is given in the specifi-
cations, then the stem should not read more than
0.001 in. (0.025mm) below the unworn area of the
valve stem. Any valves that fail these inspections
should be replaced.
Springs, Retainers and Valve Locks
$ See Figures 253 and 254
The first thing to check is the most obvious, bro-
ken springs. Next check the free length and square-
ness of each spring. If applicable, insure to distin-
guish between intake and exhaust springs. Use a
ruler and/or carpenter’s square to measure the length.
A carpenter’s square should be used to check the
lCZS3144
I I hrnknn itc Fig. 251 Valve stems may be rolled on a flat Fio. 252 Use a micrometer
suhace to check for bends
valve stem diameter r to check the
I
There are seve Cylinder Head
ral things to check on the cylinder
head: valve guides, seats, cylinder head surface flat-
ness, cracks and physical damage.
VA1 YE GUIDES
N See Figure 255
Now that you know the valves are good, you can
254 Check the valve spring fo
s on a flat surface; a carpenter use them to check the guides, although a new valve,
if available, is preferred. Before you measure any-
thing, look at the guides carefully and inspect them
for any cracks, chips or breakage. Also if the guide is
a removable style (as in most aluminum heads),
check them for any looseness or evidence of move-
ment. All of the guides should appear to be at the
same height from the spring seat. If any seem lower
(or higher) from another, the guide has moved.
Mount a dial indicator onto the sorina side of the
cylinder head. Lightly oil the valve stem and insert it

ENGINEANDENGINEOVERHAUL 3-63
Place a straightedge across the gasket surface. Valves
Using feeler gauges, determine the clearance at the
center of the straightedge and across the cylinder Any valves that were not replaced should be
head at several points. Check along the centerline refaced and the tips ground flat. Unless you have ac-
and diagonally on the head surface. If the warpage cess to a valve grinding machine, this should be
exceeds 0.003 in. (0.076mm) within a 6.0 in. done by a machine shop. If the valves are in ex-
(152cm) span, or 0.006 in. (0.152mm) over the total tremely good condition, as well as the valve seats
length of the head, the cylinder head must be resur- and guides, they may be lapped in without petform-
,
I mg macnme worK.
4
It is a recnmmended practice to lap the valves faced. After resurfacing the heads of a V-type engine
the intake manifold flange surface should be checker,
and if necessary, milled proportionally to allow for
the change in its mounting position. _ - _ _ _ .- - - _
even after machine work has been p&formed and/or
new valves have been purchased. This insures a pos-
itive seal between the valve and seat.
-guide clearance; the 1
read
. .
into the cylinder head. Position the dial indicator
against the valve stem near the tie and zero the
gauge. Grasp the valve stem and’wiggle towards and
away from the dial indicator and observe the read-
ings. Mount the dial indicator 90 degrees from the
initial point and zero the gauge and again take a read-
ing. Compare the two readings for a out of round
condition. Check the readings against the specifica-
tions given. An Inside Diameter (I.D.) gauge designed
for valve guides will give you an accurate valve guide
bore measurement. If the I.D. gauge is used, compare
the readings with the specifications given. Any CRACKS AND PHYSICAL DAMAGE
Generally, cracks are limited to the combustion
chamber, hbwever, it is not uncommon for the head
to crack in a spark plug hole, port, outside of the
head or in the valve spring/rocker arm area. The first
area to inspect is always the hottest: the exhaust
.I *
seawpon area.
8 I .,“““I llly”Lv”l~ .ml”“l” - plr”llll”“, ““I ,“a’
because you don’t see a crack does not mean it is not
there. Some more reliable methods for inspecting for
cracks include Magnaflux? a magn$i,c process or
Zyglo? a dye penetrant. Ma{ -’
InatluxW IS used only on
ferrous metal (cast iron) heat Is. Zyglo@ uses a spray
on fluorescent mixture along with a black light to re-
veal the cracks. It is strongly recommended to have
your cylinder head checked professionally for cracks,
especially if the engine was known to have over-
I .* I,. ..^.. LAPPING THE VALVES
*Before iaoaino the valves to the seats,
read the rest of the cylinder head section to
insure that any related parts are in accept-
able enough condition to continue.
*Before anv valve seat machining and/or
lapping can be performed, the guides must
be within factory recommended specifica-
tions.
1. Invert the cylinder head.
2. Linhtlv Iuhrir;rB the valve stems and insert
-. _ ~ . . . . . .--.._-._
them into the cylinder head in their numbered order.
3. Raise the valve from the seat and apply a small
amount of fine lanninn compound to the seat.
4.
i guides that fail these inspections should be replaced nearea analor ieaKea or consumea coolant. Contact a Moisten the suction head of a hand-lapping
tool and attach it to the head of the valve.
i or machined. local shop for availability and pricing of these ser-
5. Rotate the tool between the palms of both
I vices.
I
VALVE SEATS Physical damage is usually very evident. For ex- hands, changing the position of the valve on the
valve seat and lifting the tool often to prevent groov-
A visual inspection of the valve seats should show
amnb P hrnbn mntlntinn ear from dropping the I and/or bolt. All of these ing.
.a,... . 6. Lap the valve until a smooth, polished circle is
a slightly worn and pitted surface where the valve
face contacts the seat. Inspect the seat carefully for
severe pitting or cracks. Also, a seat that is badly
worn will be recessed into the cylinder head. A se-
verely worn or recessed seat may need to be re- uetecIs SIIOUIO oe nxea or, IT unrepairaole, me neaa
should be replaced.
Camshaft and Followers evid
7
traces of the grinding corn
to maintain its lapped loca lent on the valve and seat.
‘. Remove the tool and the valve. Wipe away all
pound and store the valve
placed: All cracked seats must be replaced. A seat
concentricity gauge, if available, should be used to
check the seat run-out. If run-out exceeds specifica-
tions the seat must be machined (if no soecification
is given use 0.002 in. or O.O51mt$. Inspect the camshaft(s) and followers as described
earlier in this section.
REFINISHING & REPAIRING Do not get the valves out of order after they
have been lapped. They must be put back
: ..^^ I... --I:^:-L!-- --A
Many of the procedures gIveI
WI WIIIIISIIIIIIJ ~IIU repairing the cylinder head components must be per-
formed by a machine shop. Certain steps, if the in-
spected part is not worn, can be performed yourself
inexpensively. However, you spent a lot of time and
effort so far, why risk trying to save a couple bucks if
you might have to do it all over again?
I- with the same valve seat with which they
were lapped.
Springs, Retainers and Valve locks
There is no repair or refinishing possible with the
springs, retainers and valve locks. If they are found to
be worn or defective, they must be replaced with new
lor known nnod narts CYLtNDEt? HEAD SURFACE FLATNESS
) See Figures 256 and 257
After you have cleaned the gasket surface of the
cylinder head of any old gasket material, check the
head for flatness.
\- - a---r r- .-.
Cylinder Head
Most refinishing procedures dealing with the
VALVE GWDE
elf any machining or replacements are
e valve guides, the seats must be
Fig. 257 Checks should also be made along Unless the valve guides need machining or re-
placing, the only service to perform is to thoroughly‘
clean them of any dirt or oil residue.