coolant capacity MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Repair Manual
[x] Cancel search | Manufacturer: MITSUBISHI, Model Year: 1900, Model line: DIAMANTE, Model: MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900Pages: 408, PDF Size: 71.03 MB
Page 40 of 408

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GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-41
93151p18 Fig. 202 . , . to remove the cap from the
radiator
93151p17 Fig. 205 Be sure the rubber gasket on the
radiator cap has a tight seal e Fig. 203 Pour the proper *I~ coolant mix- 1 Fig. 204 . . . make sure to fill the coolant
recovery tank to the proper level also ture into the radiator . . .
.I
4. Allow the engine to cool completely and drain fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from
ie system again.
5. Repeat this processuntil the drained water is
lear
and free of scale.
6. Flush the recovery tank with water and leave ’
mpty. the system should be discarded. Also, do not
allow any brake fluid to come in contact with
a painted surface; it will damage the paint.
When adding fluid to the system, ONLY use fresh
DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. DOT 3
brake fluid will absorb moisture when it is exposed to
.a . . . , .*a. . . * .*. . .
- Never open, service or drain the radiator or
cooling system when hot; serious bums can
occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also,
when draining engine coolant, keep In mind
that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene
glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is
left in an uncovered container or in puddles
on the ground. This will prove fatal in suffi-
4. Place a drain pan of suff i ’ 1 . . . ..I .I. 1,~ cient quantities. Always tne atmospnere, wnrcn wnr rower 1r.s oourng pomr. A
container that has been opened once, closed and
placed on a shelf will allow enough moisture to enter
over time to contaminate the fluid within. If your brake
fluid is contaminated with water, you could boil the
brake fluid under hard braking conditions and lose all
or some braking ability. Don’t take the risk, buy fresh
brake fluid whenever you must add to the system.
crenr capacrry unaer me
drain) on the radiator.
rrrasuc perwcss easuy bind; Before open-
ing a plastic radiator petcock, spray it with
some penetrating lubricant. drain coolant into a
earner. sealable container. Coolant should be reused
unless it is contaminated or is several years
old.
The brake master cylinder ~a~~~~r,~~ :A I~nnL.4 n-n 7. Fill and bleed the cooling system as described
Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and
polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and ,LEVEL CHECK
wash your hands thoroughly after handling
brake fluid. If vou do oet brake fluid in vour
eyes, flush your eyeswith clean, runniug wa-
a-.. ‘Y-- ar -l-..n-- II -.._ I____ k See Figures 206 thru 211
.a-11-- - __-PA._ radiator and open the petcock (
- w&1--x3_ --mm.._..- . . ..-I...
5. Drain the cooling system completely.
6. Close the petcock.
7. Remove the drain pan.
If necessary, install the splash shield under the 8.
L.-l
venicie.
9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Determine the capacity of the cooling system,
then properly refill the system at the recovery tank
and radiator with a 50/50 mixture of fresh coolant and
fKm”“ll 15 IUMLC” “II- brake booster and fire- der the hood, attached to the
wall on the drivers side of the engine compartment.
FLUID RECOMMENDATIONS rer mr 13 mmures. IT eye irriIauon persim, or if you have taken brake fluid internally,
IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance.
ala in oreerring me sysrem.
12. Start the engine and allow it to idle until the
thermostat opens (the upper radiator hose will be-
come hot). The coolant level should go down, this is
normal as the system bleeds the air pockets out of the
svstem.
IRVf!l ._._. 14. Turn the engine OFF and check for leaks. IMMEDIATELY seek medical assistance.” Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and
polyglycols. Avoid contact with the eyes and
wash your hands thoroughly after handling
brakefluid. If you do get brake fluid in your
eyes, flush your eyes with clean, running wa-
or if vou have taken brake fluid internallv.
Before removing the master cylinder reservoir cap,
make sure the vehicle is resting on level ground and Be careful to avoid spilling any brake fluid on
painted surfaces, because the paint coat will
become discolored or damaged.
Observe the fluid level indicators on the master
._ ._ __
‘eve1 should be between the MIN
ano
ivw unes. 13. Refill the system with coolant to the proper ter for 15 minutes; If eye irritation persists, cylinder; the tluld II
..J ..I” I....
FLUSHING & CLEANINGTHE SYSTEM
1. Drain the cooling system completely as de:
scribed earlier.
2. Close the petcock and fill the system with a
cooling system flush (clean water may also be used,
but is not as efficient).
3. Idle the engine until the upper radiator hose
gets hot. Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to
the safe and proper operation of the brake
system. You should always buy the highest
quality brake fluid that is available. If the
brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and
flush the system, then refill the master cylin-
der with new fluid. Never reuse any brake clean all dirt away from the top of the master cylinder.
Unscrew the cap and fill the master cylinder until the
level is between the MIN and MAX lines.
If the level of the brake fluid is less than half the
volume of the reservoir, it is advised that you check
the brake system for leaks. Leaks in a hydraulic brake
system most commonly occur at the wheel cylinder
and brake line junction points.
Page 390 of 408

11-8 TROUBLESHOOTING
Ignition systems may be controlled by, or linked to, the engine fuel management sys-
tem. Similar to the fuel injection system, these ignition systems rely on electronic sen-
sors for information to determine the optimum ignition timing for a given engine speed
and load. Some ignition systems no longer allow the ignition timing to be adjusted.
Feedback from low voltage electrical sensors provide information to the control unit to
determine the amount of ignition advance. On these systems, if a failure occurs the failed
component must be replaced. Before replacing suspected failed electrical components,
carefully inspect the wiring and electrical connectors to the related components. Make
sure the electrical connectors are fully connected, clean and not physically damaged. If
necessary, clean the electrical contacts using electrical contact cleaner. The use of clean-
ing agents not specifically designed for electrical contacts should be avoided, as they
could leave a surface film or damage the insulation of the wiring.
1. Engine makes a knocking or pinging noise when accelerating
a. Check the octane rating of the fuel being used. Depending on the type of driving or
driving conditions, it may be necessary to use a higher octane fuel.
b. Verify the ignition system settings and operation. Improperly adjusted ignition timing
or a failed component, such as a knock sensor, may cause the ignition timing to ad-
vance excessively or prematurely. Check the ignition system operation and adjust, or
replace components as needed.
c. Check the spark plug gap, heat range and condition. If the vehicle is operated in se-
vere operating conditions or at continuous high speeds, use a colder heat range spark
plug. Adjust the spark plug gap to the manufacturer’s recommended specification and
replace worn or damaged spark plugs.
2. Sfarter motor grinds when used
a. Examine the starter pinion gear and the engine ring gear for damage, and replace dam-
aged parts.
b. Check the starter mounting bolts and housing. If the housing is cracked or damaged
replace the starter motor and check the mounting bolts for tightness.
3. Engine makes a screeching noise
a. Check the accessory drive belts for looseness and adjust as necessary.
b. Check the accessory drive belt tensioners for seizing or excessive bearing noises and
replace if loose, binding, or excessively noisy.
c. Check for a seizing water pump. The pump may not be leaking; however, the bearing
may be faulty or the impeller loose and jammed. Replace the water pump.
4. Engine makes a growling noise
a. Check for a loose or failing water pump. Replace the pump and engine coolant.
b. Check the accessory drive belt tensioners for excessive bearing noises and replace if
loose or excessively noisy.
5. Engine makes a ticking or tapping noise
a. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for low or dirty engine oil and top off
or replace the engine oil and filter.
b. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for collapsed lifters and replace failed
components.
c. On vehicles with hydraulic lash adjusters, check for low oil pressure caused by a re-
stricted oil filter, worn engine oil pump, or oil pressure relief valve.
d. On vehicles with manually adjusted valves, check for excessive valve clearance or
worn valve train parts. Adjust the valves to specification or replace worn and defective
parts.
e. Check for a loose or improperly tensioned timing belt or timing chain and adjust or re-
place parts as necessary.
f. Check for a bent or sticking exhaust or intake valve. Remove the engine cylinder head
to access and replace.
6. Engine makes a heavy knocking noise
a. Check for a loose crankshaft pulley or flywheel; replace and torque the mounting
bolt(s) to specification.
b. Check for a bent connecting rod caused by a hydro-lock condition. Engine disassem-
bly is necessary to inspect for damaged and needed replacement parts.
c. Check for excessive engine rod bearing wear or damage. This condition is also asso-
ciated with low engine oil pressure and will require engine disassembly to inspect for
damaged and needed replacement parts,
7. Vehicle has a fuel odor when driven ’ a. Check the fuel gauge level. If the fuel gauge registers full, it is possible that the odor is
caused by being filled beyond capacity, or some spillage occurred during refueling.
The odor should clear after driving an hour, or twenty miles, allowing the vapor canis-
ter to purge.
b. Check the fuel filler cap for looseness or seepage. Check the cap tightness and, if
loose, properly secure. If seepage is noted, replace the filler cap.
c. Check for loose hose clamps, cracked or damaged fuel delivery and return lines, or
leaking components or seals, and replace or repair as necessary. d. Check the vehicle’s fuel economy. If fuel consumption has increased due to a failed
component, or if the fuel is not properly ignited due to an ignition related failure, the
catalytic converter may become contaminated. This condition may also trigger the
check engine warning light. Check the spark plugs for a dark, rich condition or verify
the condition by testing the vehicle’s emissions. Replace fuel fouled spark plugs, and
test and replace failed components as necessary.
5. Vehicle has a rotten egg odor when driven
a. Check for a leaking intake gasket or vacuum leak causing a lean running condition. A
lean mixture may result in increased exhaust temperatures, causing the catalytic con-
verter to run hotter than normal. This condition may also trigger the check engine
warning light. Check and repair the vacuum leaks as necessary.
b. Check the vehicle’s alternator and battery condition. If the alternator is overcharging,
the battery electrolyte can be boiled from the battery, and the battery casing may begin
to crack, swell or bulge, damaging or shorting the battery internally. If this has oc-
curred, neutralize the battery mounting area with a suitable baking soda and water
mixture or equivalent, and replace the alternator or voltage regulator. Inspect, service,
and load test the battery, and replace if necessary.
9. Vehicle has a sweet odor when driven
a. Check for an engine coolant leak caused by a seeping radiator cap, loose hose clamp,
weeping cooling system seal, gasket or cooling system hose and replace or repair as
needed.
b. Check for a coolant leak from the radiator, coolant reservoir, heater control valve or
under the dashboard from the heater core, and replace the failed part as necessary.
c. Check the engine’s exhaust for white smoke in addition to a sweet odor. The presence
of white, steamy smoke with a sweet odor indicates coolant leaking into the combus-
tion chamber. Possible causes include a failed head gasket, cracked engine block or
cylinder head. Other symptoms of this condition include a white paste build-up on the
inside of the oil filler cap, and softened, deformed or bulging radiator hoses.
19. Engine vibraies when idling
a. Check for loose, collapsed, or damaged engine or transmission mounts and repair or
replace as necessary.
b. Check for loose or damaged engine covers or shields and secure or replace as neces-
sary.
11. Engine vibrates during acceleration
a. Check for missing, loose or damaged exhaust system hangers and mounts; replace or
repair as necessary.
b. Check the exhaust system routing and fit for adequate clearance or potential rubbing;
repair or adjust as necessary.
7. Battery goes dead while driving
a. Check the battery condition. Replace the battery if the battery will not hold a charge or
fails a battery load test. If the battery loses fluid while driving, check for an overcharg-
ing condition. If the alternator is overcharging, replace the alternator or voltage regula-
tor. (A voltage regulator is typically built into the alternator, necessitating alternator re-
placement or overhaul.)
b. Check the battery cable condition. Clean or replace corroded cables and clean the bat-
tery terminals.
c. Check the alternator and voltage regulator operation. If the charging system is over or
undercharging, replace the alternator or voltage regulator, or both.
d. Inspect the wiring and wire connectors at the alternator for looseness, a missing .
ground or defective terminal, and repair as necessary.
e. Inspect the alternator drive belt tension, tensioners and condition. Properly tension the
drive belt, replace weak or broken tensioners, and replace the drive belt if worn or
cracked.
2. Battery goes dead overnight
a. Check the battery condition. Replace the battery if the battery will not hold a charge or
fails a battery load test.
b. Check for a voltage draw, such as a trunk light, interior light or glove box light staying
on. Check light switch position and operation, and replace if defective.
c. Check the alternator for an internally failed diode, and replace the alternator if defec-
tive.
1. Engine overheats
a. Check the coolant level. Set the heater temperature to full hot and check for internal air
pockets, bleed the cooling system and inspect for leakage. Top off the cooling system
with the correct coolant mixture.
b. Pressure test the cooling system and radiator cap for leaks. Check for seepage caused
by loose hose clamps, failed coolant hoses, and cooling system components such as
the heater control valve, heater core, radiator, radiator cap, and water pump. Replace
defective parts and fill the cooling system with the recommended coolant mixture.