boot MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Owner's Manual

BRAKiS 9-13
Fig. 59 Use a prytool to carefully pry around 1
the edge of the boot , , . caiper housing, taking care not to score or 1
damage the bore ing the piston seal; DO NOT scratch the
15. Use a suitable driving tool to seat the boots in
the housing.
16. Install the caliper in the vehicle.
17. Install the wheel and tire assembly, then care-
fully lower the vehicle.
18. Properly bleed the brake system.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
Fig. 62 Use the proper size driving tool and
a mallet to properly seal the boots in the Fig. 63 There are tools, such as this Mighty-
Vat, available to assist in proper brake sys- Brake pads and shoes contain asbestos,
which has been determined to be a cancer
calmer housino
1 tam hlasrlinn . --~-~~~v
3. For the second method, you must rotate the
piston to retract it from the caliper.
4. If equipped, remove the anti-rattle clip.
5. Use a prytool to remove the caliper boot, be-
ing careful not to scratch the housing bore.
6. Remove the piston seals from the groove in
the caliper bore.
7. Carefully loosen the brake bleeder valve cap
~nrl \I~IWJ frnm the r~linor hnlwinn
I causina aaent. LL.....” rlrr.. .I.,. l.uLr I..”
Yll” .UI”Y ll”lll LIIb rro,spl tI”“Jlly. 8. Inspect the caliper bores, pistons and mount-
ing threads for scoring or excessive wear,
--... -.---...= ’ I.twla lilci(lll Lllli uranl$ au,- faces with-compressed air! Avoid Inhaling
9. Use crocus cloth to polish out light corrosion any dust from brake surfaces! When cleaning
from the piston and bore. brakes, use commercially available brake
10. Clean all parts with denatured alcohol and cleaning fluids.
dry with compressed air.
To assemble:
11. Lubricate and install the bleeder valve and 1993-09 Mirage, Diamante, and Galant
NP. 6 See Figures 64 thru 70
12. Install the new seals into the caliper bore
nrnnlrhr m”lr;nn Clln-. M..-.., nrn n.4 h..‘“‘“~ The following procedure is applicable to both the ytvvvca, lllanllly 3”IC o,ey ale II”, IWI~LCL. 13. Lubricate the piston bore.
14. Install the pistons and boots into the bores of
the calipers and push to the bottom of the bores. ’ front and rear brakes.
1. Raise the vehicle and support safely.
2. Remove the appropriate wheel.
3. Remove the caliper and brake pads.
Fia. 64 Suoaarl the calmer usina me-
., -----= -..- chanic’s wire or another suitable device, Do
NOT let it hang by the brake hose Fig. 65 Remove the caliper bracket retain-
ing bolts . . . Fig. 66 m . . then remove the caliper bracket
from the vehicle

BRAtiES 9-19
*Soecial flare nut wrenches shauld
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION
be used u See Figures 94, 95, 98, 97, and 98
1. Safely raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the rear wheel and the drum.
3. Remove the spring on the adjuster lever,
4. Remove the shoe-to-shoe spring.
5. Remove the auto adjuster assembly. 7. Remove the wheel cylinder mounting bolts
and the wheel cylinder.
To install:
11. Install the auto adjusterassembly. 8. Install the wheel cylinder on the backing
plate. Tighten the mounting bolts to 7 ft. Ibs. (10
Nm).
9. Connect the brake line the wheel cylinder.
Tighten the line fitting to 11 ft. Ibs. (15 Nm).
10. Add brake fluid to the reservoir and leave the
wheel cylinder bleeder screw loose. Brake fluid will
start the flow into the wheel cylinder and may save
time when bleeding the brake system later.
OVERHAUL
u See Figures 99 thru lD8
Wheel cylinder overhaul kits may be available, but
often at little or no savings over a reconditioned
wheel cvlinder. It often makes sense with these com-
ponents to substitute a new or reconditioned part in-
stead of attempting an overhaul.
If no replacement is available, or you would prefer
to overhaul your wheel cylinders, the following pro-
cedure may be used. When rebuilding and installing
wheel cylinders, avoid getting any contaminants into
the system. Always use clean, new, high quality brake
fluid. If dirty or improper fluid has been used, it will
be necessary to drain the entire system, flush the
system with proper brake fluid, replace all rubber
components, then refill and bleed the system.
Fig. 97 The wheel cylinder is held by two Fig. 98 . . . then remove the wheel cylinder
retaining bolts; remove the bolts . . . from the backing plate
/ move the pistons and seals ‘Tr 1 Fig 100 Compressed air can be used tore- Fig. 99 Remove the outer boots from the
/cleanthepistons. ‘. ‘*I6 Fig 102 Use brake fluid and a sofl brush to

‘I
9-20 ,BRAKES
1. Remove the wheel cylinder from the vehicle
and place on a clean workbench.
2. First remove and discard the old rubber
boots, then withdraw the pistons. Piston cylinders are
equipped with seals and a spring assembly, all lo-
cated behind the pistons in the cylinder bore.
3. Remove the remaining inner components,
seals and spring assembly. Compressed air may be
useful in removing these components. If no com-
pressed air is available, be VERY careful not to score
the wheel cylinder bore when removing parts from it. Discard all components for which replacements were
supplied in the rebuild kit.
4. Wash the cylinder and metal parts in dena-
tured alcohol or clean brake fluid.
Never use a mineral-based solvent such as
gasoline, kerosene or paint thinner for clean-
ing purposes. These solvents will swell rub-
ber components and quickly deteriorate
them. 5. Allow the parts to air dry or use compressed
air. Do not use rags for cleaning, since lint will re-
main in the cylinder bore.
6. Inspect the piston and replace it if it shows
scratches.
7. Lubricate the cylinder bore and seals using
- clean brake fluid.
8. Position the spring assembly.
9. Install the inner seals, then the pistons.
IO. Insert the new boots into the counterbores bv
hand. Do not lubricate the boots,
11, Install the wheel cylinder,
m9017 Fig. 103. . .
and the bore of the wheel cylin- der
-9P20 Fig. 106 Install the spring, then the cup
seals in the bore 1 Fig. 104 Once cleaned and inspected, the
1 wheel cylinder Is ready for assembly
1 install them Fig 107 Lightly lubricate the pistons z
’ Fig. 108 The boots can now be instaT:
over the wheel cylinder ends
REMOVAL& INSTALLATION
Mirage
WITH REAR DRUM BRAKES
-If equipped witti an air bag (SRS system), 3. Remove the rear seat cushion.
13. Position the cable and loosely install the re-
4. Remove the center cable clamp and grommet.
tainers.
5. Raise the vehicle and support safely.
14. Reattach the parking brake cables to the actu-
6. At the rear wheel, remove the brake drum and
ator inside the vehicle.
shoes.
15. Adjust the rear brake shoes.
7. Disconnect the cable end from the parking
16. Tighten the adjusting nut until the proper ten-
brake strut lever.
sion is placed on the cable. Adjust the parking brake
8. Compress the retaining strips to remove the
stroke using appropriate method.
cable from the backing plate.
17. Secure all cable retainers,
9. Unfasten any other frame retainers and re-
18. Apply and release the parking brake a number
move the cables.
of times once all adjustments have been made.
be sure to disarm system
befok starting rd-
aairs on the vehicle. To install:
10. The parkinq brake cables mav be color coded 19. With the rear wheels raised, make sure the
oarkino brake is not causina excess draa on the rear
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the screws from the center section
and remove the rear part of the console.
*If equipped with SRS, when removing the
floor console,
don’t allow any impact or
shock to the SRS diagnostic unit. to indicate stde. Check the parking brake cables for
wheels: .A
an identification mark.
20. Install the floor consoleand rear seat assem-
11. Install the cable to the rear actuator. Secure in
bly.
place with the parking brake cable clip and retainer
21. Connect the negative battery cable.
spring.
22. Check that the parking brake holds the vehi-
12. Install the brake shoes and drum.
cle on an incline.

10-4 BODYANDTRIM
Fig. 8 Tailgate assembly mounting-Dia-
mante Wagon
6. Remove the tailgate from the vehicle and place
it in a safe place.
7. The installation is the reverse of removal.
Tighten the hinge
nuts to IO ft. Ibs. (14 Nm).
8. Check the alignment of the tailgate.
ALIGNMENT
To adjust the tailgate, loosen the tailgate hinge-to-
body bolts or tailgate latch assembly mounting
screws and adjust as necessary.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Open the trunk lid. Identify the trunk release
cable running from the latch to the body.
3. Disconnect the cable from the latch.
4. Detach any necessary electrical connectors.
5. Outline the position of the hinges on the
trunk lid.
6. Support the trunk lid in the open position.
7. If equipped, insert a small prytool into the
lock cover slit, remove the lock covers, then remove
the trunk lid gas springs.
8. Unfasten the retaining bolts, then remove the
trunk lid hinges.
9. Remove the trunk lid from the vehicle
10. Installation is the reverse of the removal pro-
cedure.
11. If necessary, align the trunk lid.
ALIGNMENT
1. Close the lid and check both the seam width
all around and the closed height. The trunk lid must
be flush with the adjacent panels. Minor height ad-
justments may be made by turning the rubber
bumpers on the trunk lid. Additional adjustments re-
quire loosening and repositioning of the latch and/or
striker.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
? See Figure 9
1. Knob 2. Delta cover inner
3. Boot
4. Door mirror
5. Mirror
Fig. .9 Outside door mirror
1994-98 Galant shown
, others 9315oQ1 i mounting-
similar
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the delta cover (the triangular trim
cover) from the top of the door panel.
3. On manual mirrors remove the set screw and
the adjustment knob.
4. If the mirror is electric, disconnect the wire
harness.
5. Remove the mounting nuts and the door trim
bracket.
6. Lift the mirror from the vehicle.
To install: 7. Position the mirror on the vehicle.
8. Install the door trim bracket and the mount-
ing nuts.
9. If the mirror is electric, reconnect the wire
harness.
IO. On manual mirrors, install the knob and set
screw.
11. Install the delta cover.
12. Connect the negative battery cable.
13. If electric, cycle the mirror several times to
make sure that it works properly.
# See Figure 11
REPLACEMENT
1990-92 Mirage
b
See Figure 10
*The mast may be replaced separately by
simply unscrewing it from the base. The fol-
1. center panel and glove box
2 scuff plate
3 cowl 51ae wm
4 Washer duct 2 p$iltrol ““It
7 CaMeband
8 cap
9 Anrsnna mast
10 Antenna base “ourmng ““f
11 Antennz.base
%i%Qol
Fig. 10 Antenna mounting-1990-92 Mi-
rage lowing procedure is for replacing the base
and cable as a unit.
1 I Raise and safely support the vehicle securely
on jackstands.
2. Remove the passenger side front wheel.
3. Remove the splash shield inside the passen-
ger side front wheel arch.
4. Remove the center panel {for radio access)
and remove the glove box.
5. Remove the right side sill plate and remove
the kick panel.
6. If the car has a rear heater, remove the
shower duct under the glove box.
7. Carefully remove the PCM. For more details,
please refer to Section 4.
8. Remove the radio and disconnect the antenna
cable.
9. Release the cable from the bands and clips
holding it under the dash.
10. Unscrew the mast from the antenna base.
II. Remove the upper base mounting nut (at the
fender) and disconnect the lower bolt holding the
mast. Remove the mast and carefully remove the ca-
ble.
12. Install the new unit, tightening both the upper
nut and lower bolt.
13. Carefully feed the cable into the car and route
it to the radio. Engage the cable in the clips and in-
stall new retaining bands.
14. Connect the antenna cable to the radio and
reinstall the radio.
15. Replace the MPI control unit. t
16. Install the heater duct, if it was removed, and
install the kick panel on the right side.
17. Install the sill plate. Install the glove box.
18. Install the center panel.
19. Reinstall the wheel arch splash shield. Install
the wheel if it was removed. Lower the car to the
ground.
1993-00 Mirage
I. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the antenna base retaining screws.
3. Lift the base and mast assembly up from the
roof.
4. Detach the connector for the antenna.
5. The installation is the reverse of removal.
1. Pole
2. Knee protactor
3. Air outlet center panel assembly 4. Radto and laps player
5. Cowl side trim (driver’s side)
6. Chp
7. Antenna base
6. Base
931 !iogo2 Fig. 11 Antenna mounting-1993-00 Mi-
rage

TROUBLESHOOTING 11-13
NOTE: When one shock fails, ft is recommended to replace front or rear
units as pairs.
3. Vehicle leans excessively in turns
a. Check for worn or leaking shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as neces-
sary.
b. Check for missing, damaged, or worn stabilizer links or bushings, and replace or in-
stall as necessary.
4. Vehicle ride quality seems excessively ha&h
a. Check for seized shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as necessary.
b. Check for excessively high tire pressures and adjust pressures to vehicle recommen-
dations.
5. Vehicle seems low or leans to one side
a. Check for a damaged, broken or weak spring. Replace defective parts and check for a
needed alignment.
b. Check for seized shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as necessary.
c. Check for worn or leaking shock absorbers or strut assemblies and replace as neces-
sary.
Noises 1. Vehicle makes a clicking noises when driven
a. Check the noise to see if it varies with road speed. Verify if the noise is present when
coasting or with steering or throttle input. If the clicking noise frequency changes with
road speed and is not affected by steering or throttle input, check the tire treads for a
stone, piece of glass, nail or another hard object imbedded into the tire or tire tread.
Stones rarely cause a tire puncture and are easily removed. Other objects may create
an air leak when removed. Consider having these objects removed immediately at a
facility equipped to repair tire punctures.
b. If the clicking noise varies with throttle input and steering, check for a worn Constant
Velocity (CV-joint) joint, universal (U- joint) or flex joint.
2. Vehicle makes a clunking or knocking noise over bumps
a. A clunking noise over bumps is most often caused by excessive movement or clear-
ance in a suspension component. Check the suspension for soft, cracked, damaged or
worn bushings. Replace the bushings and check the vehicle’s alignment.
b. Check for loose suspension mounting bolts. Check the tightness on subframe bolts,
pivot bolts and suspension mounting bolts, and torque to specification.
c. Check the vehicle for a loose wheel bearing. Some wheel bearings can be adjusted for
looseness, while others must be replaced if loose. Adjust or replace the bearings as
recommended by the manufacturer.
d. Check the door latch adjustment. If the door is slightly loose, or the latch adjustment
is not centered, the door assembly may create noises over bumps and rough surfaces.
Properly adjust the door latches to secure the door. 3. Vehicle makes a low pitched rumbling noise when driven
a. A low pitched rumbling noise is usually caused by a drive train related bearing and is
most often associated with a wheel bearing which has been damaged or worn. The
damage can be caused by excessive brake temperatures or physical contact with a pot
hole or curb. Sometimes the noise will vary when turning. Left hand turns increase the
load on the vehicle’s right side, and right turns load the left side. A failed front wheel
bearing may also cause a slight steering wheel vibration when turning. A bearing
which exhibits noise must be replaced.
b. Check the tire condition and balance. An internally damaged tire may cause failure
symptoms similar to failed suspension parts. For diagnostic purposes, try a known
good set of tires and replace defective tires.
4. Vehicle makes a squeaking noise over bumps
a. Check the vehicle’s ball joints for wear, damaged or leaking boots. Replace a ball joint
if it is loose, the boot is damaged and leaking, or the ball joint is binding. When re-
placing suspension parts, check the vehicle for alignment.
b. Check for seized or deteriorated bushings. Replace bushings that are worn or dam-
aged and check the vehicle for alignment.
c. Check for the presence of sway bar or stabilizer bar bushings which wrap around the
bar. Inspect the condition of the bushings and replace if worn or damaged. Remove
the bushing bracket and apply a thin layer of suspension grease to the area where the
bushings wrap around the bar and reinstall the bushing brackets. ~
5. Vehicle vibrates when driven
a. Check the road surface. Roads which have rough or uneven surfaces may cause un-
usual vi brations.
b. Check the tire condition and balance. An internally damaged tire may cause failure
symptoms similar to failed suspension parts. For diagnostic purposes, try a known
good set of tires and replace defective tires immediately.
c. Check for a worn Constant Velocity (CV-joint) joint, universal (U- joint) or flex joint
and replace if loose, damaged or binding.
d. Check for a loose, bent, or out-of-balance axle or drive shaft. Replace damaged or
failed components.
NOTE: Diagnosing failures related to wheels, tires, steering and the sus-
pension system can often times be accomplished with a careful and thor-
ough test drive. Bearing noises are isolated by noting whether the noises
or symptoms vary when turning left or right, or occur while driving a
straight line. During a teft hand turn, the vehicle’s weight shifts to the
right, placing more force on the right side bearings, such that if a right side
wheel bearing is worn or damaged, the noise or vibration should increase
during light-to-heavy acceleration. Conversely, on right hand turns, the ve-
hicle tends to lean to the left, loading the left side bearings.
Knocking noises in the suspension when the vehicle is driven over rough roads, rail-
road tracks and speed bumps indicate worn suspension components such as bushings,
ball joints or tie rod ends, or a worn steering system.
1. One headlight only works on high or low beam
a. Check for battery voltage at headlight electrical connector. If battery voltage is present,
replace the headlight assembly or bulb if available separately. If battery voltage is not
present, refer to the headlight wiring diagram to troubleshoot.
2. Headlight does not work on high or low beam
a. Check for battery voltage and ground at headlight electrical connector. If battery volt-
age is present, check the headlight connector ground terminal for a proper ground. If
battery voltage and ground are present at the headlight connector, replace the head-
light assembly or bulb if available separately. If battery voltage or ground is not pre-
sent, refer to the headlight wiring diagram to troubleshoot.
b. Check the headlight switch operation. Replace the switch if the switch is defective or
ooerates intermittentlv. 1. Tail light, running light or side marker light inoperative
a. Check for battery voltage and ground at light’s electrical connector. If battery voltage is
present, check the bulb socket and electrical connector ground terminal for a proper
ground. If battery voltage and ground are present at the light connector, but not in the
socket, clean the socket and the ground terminal connector. If battery voltage and
ground are present in the bulb socket, replace the bulb. If battery voltage or ground is
not present, refer to the wiring diagram to troubleshoot for an open circuit.
b. Check the light switch operation and replace if necessary.
2. Tall light, running light or side marker light works intermittently
a. Check the bulb for a damaged filament, and replace if damaged.
b. Check the bulb and bulb socket for corrosion, and clean or replace the bulb and
socket.
w 3. Headlight(s) very dim
a. Check for battery voltage and ground at headlight electrical connector. If battery volt-
age is present, trace the ground circuit for the headlamp electrical connector, then
clean and repair as necessary. If the voltage at the headlight electrical connector is
significantly less than the voltage at the battery, refer to the headlight wiring diagram
to troubleshoot and locate the voltage drop. c. Check for loose, damaged or corroded wires and electrical terminals, and repair as
necessary.
d. Check the light switch operation and replace if necessary.
3. Tail light, running light or side marker light very dim
a. Check the bulb and bulb socket for corrosion and clean or replace the bulb and
socket.

11-22 MASTER INDEX
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-3
BRAKE MASTERCYLINDER I-41
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS 1-41
LEVELCHECK I-41
BRAKE OPERATING SYSTEM B-2
BRAKEPADS 9-8
INSPECTION 9-11
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-8
'
BRAKESHOES 9-16
ADJUSTMENTS 9-18
INSPECTION 9-16
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 9-17
BRAKESHOES 9-23
ADJUSTMENT 9-24
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-23
BUY OR REBUILD? 3-57
CABLE(S) 9-20
ADJUSTMENT 9-22
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 9-20
CAMSHAFT POSITIONSENSOR 4-14
OPERATION 4-14
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 4-14
TESTING 4-14
CAMSHAFT, BEARINGSAND LIFTERS 3-48
INSPECTION 3-53
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-48
CENTERBEARING 7-15
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-15
CHARGING SYSTEM 2-8
CHASSISGREASING l-43
CAR WASHING 1-43
INTERIOR CLEANING l-44
WAXING l-43
CIRCUIT BREAKERS 6-28
CIRCUIT PROTECTION 6-27
CLEARING CODES 4-27
CLEARING CODES 4-28
WITHASCANTOOL 4-28
WITHOUTASCANTOOL 4-28
CLUTCH CABLE 7-9
ADJUSTMENT 7-9
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION 7-9
CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER 7-9
REMOVALANDINSTALLATION 7-9
CLUTCHSLAVECYLINDER 7-9
HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING 7-9
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 7-9
CLUTCH 7-7
CLUTCHMASTERCYLINDER l-42
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-42
LEVELCHECK l-42
COMBINATION SWITCH 8-29
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 8-29
COMPONENTLOCATIONS 4-16
CONTROL CABLES 6-12
ADJUSTMENT 6-12
CONTROL PANEL 6-12
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 6-12
COOLINGSYSTEM l-39
DRAIN &REFILL I-40
FLUIDRECOMMENDATIONS l-39
FLUSHINGANDCLEANING THESYST
EM-41
LEVELCHECK l-39
TESTING FOR LEAKS l-39
CRANKCASEVENTILATIONSYSTEM 4-2
COMPONENTTESTING 4-2
OPERATION 4-2
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 4-2
CRANKSHAFTDAMPER 3-36 REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 3-36
CRANKSHAFTANDCAMSHAFTPOSITIONSENSORS 2-7
CRANKSHAFTANDCAMSHAFTPOSITIONSENSORS 2-5
CRANKSHAFTPOSlTlONSENSOR/CRANKANGLESENSOR 4-14
OPERATION 4-14
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 4-15
TESTING 4-15
CRUISE CONTROL 6-13
CV-BOOTS I-21
INSPECTION I-21
CYLINDER HEAD 3-23
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 3-23
CYLINDER HEAD 3-60
DETERMINIG ENGINE CONDITION 3-57
COMPRESSION TEST 3-57
OIL PRESSURETEST 3-57
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING 9-24
DIAGNOSISANDTESTING 2-2
DIAGNOSISANDTESTING 2-5
DIAGNOSTICTROUBLECODES 4-27
DIAGNOSTICTROUBLECODES 4-28
FLASH OUTCODELIST 4-32
DIMMER SWITCH 6-19
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION 6-19
DISC BRAKES 9-8
DISCONNECTING THE CABLES 6-7
DISTRIBUTOR IGNITION SYSTEM 2-2 f
DISTRIBUTOR 2-4
INSTALLATION 2-4
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION 2-4
DISTRIBUTORCAPANDROTOR l-25
INSPECTION l-25
REMOVAL&INSTALLATION l-25
DISTRIBUTORLESS IGNITION SYSTEM 2-5
DO'S l-4
DON'TS l-6
DOORGLASSANDREGULATOR lo-10
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION IO-IO
DOOR HANDLE/LATCHASSEMBLY IO-IO
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-IO
DOORLOCKCYLINDER IO-IO
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-IO
DOOR PANELS IO-7
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION IO-7
DOORS IO-2
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION IO-2
DRlVEAXLE(AWD GALANTONLY) l-10
DRIVELINE 7-14
DRIVEN DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE 7-7
DRIVESHAFTAND U-JOINTS 7-14
DRIVESHAFT BALANCING 7-15
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION 7-14
U-JOINTREPLACEMENT 7-14
DRUM BRAKES 9-15
ELECTRIC WINDOW MOTOR IO-IO
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION IO-IO
ELECTRICALCOMPONENTS 6-2
CONNECTORS 6-4
GROUND 6-3
LOAD 6-3
POWERSOURCE 6-2
PROTECTIVE DEVICES 6-3
SWITCHES&RELAYS 6-3
WIRING & HARNESSES 6-3
ELECTRONIC ENGINE CONTROLS 4-7
EMISSION CONTROLS 4-2
ENGINE BLOCK 3-65
ASSEMBLY 3-67
DISASSEMBLY 3-65