PONTIAC FIERO 1988 Service Repair Manual

2C-4 CHASSIS SHEET METAL
3. Clean area to be repaired.
4. Mix and apply the repair material by using a
putty knife or rubber squeegee.
5. Work the material into the repair and build up
the desired contour. For deep filling, and on
vertical surfaces, several layers may be
required.
6. Feather-sand damaged area with No. 200 sand-
paper and finish-sand with No. 320 sandpaper.
7. Prepare repaired area for refinishing. Refinish
with acrylic lacquer as described below.
1. THOROUGHLY CLEAN the entire surface
area, using Naphtha or equivalent solvent, to
insure a surface free of contamination.
2. To promote paint adhesion, a light scuff-sand-
ing of the surface with
#400-grit sandpaper is
recommended.
3. Repeat cleaning of the surface.
4. Color coat with acrylic lacquer for proper color
match.
5. Allow to dry thoroughly, rub out and polish.
PAINT REFINISHING PROCEDURES FOR
URETHANE, P.V.C. AND T.P.R. SURFACES
Urethane material will withstand minor impact
and the resultant damage, such as occurs in parking
lots, by recovering its original shape. Its Endura paint
film responds to impact in a similar manner without
cracking or splitting. If, however, an area of damage
in the Urethane bumper or panel does not recover its
shape, or the surface is punctured, gouged or torn, a
repair system has been developed to restore the origi-
nal shape and appearance of the urethane-base
material.
CALSVON: There are a number of paint
systems available For service use; how-
ever,
many require additives containing
isocyanates.
It is essential that all rec-
ommendations and warnings listed on
the container label for
materials
seleded be followed.
CAUTION: If the paint system selected
specifies an additive containing
isocya-
nates, it is mandatory that adequate
respiratory protection be worn. An
example of such protection
is an air line
respirator with a
full hood or half mask.
If not
avaiable, use a vaporlpaHiculate
respirator that the respirator supplier
recommends as
efFective for isocyanate
vapors and mists (unless local
regula-
tions prevail).
Such protection should be worn during the
entire painting process. Persons with respiratory
problems, or those
allergic to isocyanates must not
be exposed to isocyanate vapors or spray mist.
REPAIRING & REFINISHING URETHANE
BUMPERS AND FRONT END PANELS
Required Materials:
1. 3M No. 8101 Structural Adhesive, or
equivalent.
2. Color Coat - Dexlar (DuPont) Flexible Finish
Enamel Color Coat, or Ditzler Elastomeric
Enamel Color Coat or equivalent.
3. Additive
- DuPont 792s Centari Hardener,
or
Ditzler
DXR-80 Delthane Additive or
equivalent.
4. Thinner
- DuPont 3608s Acrylic
Lacquer
Thinner, or Ditzler Delstar DTR 601 Acrylic
Enamel Reducer or equivalent.
NOTICE: Use the same brand name materials for
the color coat, additive, and thinner.
5. A wax and adhesive cleaner.
Equipment Needed:
1. Wooden spatula (enclosed in repair package).
2. Heat lamp.
3. 36 grit 180-A, 240-A, and 320-A grit disc
sandpaper.
4. Random orbital-type sander.
5. Body repair tape.
6. Suction spray gun (same nozzle and air cap
combination as used for acrylic).
Repair Procedure
There are three types of repairable damage on
urethane material. They are a puncture, a gouge and a
tear.
Following is the basic repair procedure for
repairing these types of damages.
1. Clean the damaged area with 3M #8984 Gen-
eral Purpose Adhesive Cleaner or equivalent. If
the damage is through the thickness of the part,
clean both sides.
Grind away damaged material with a
36 grit
disc. Feather edge the paint around the damage
using a
1808 grit disc.
2. If the part has a puncture or tear, file or rout out
the area where joint line will be. Bevel the edge
of the part with the open edge towards the side
to be filled (fill from the side with easiest
access). Clean the repair area with a clean dry
rag.
3. Apply 3M #6935 Auto Body Repair Tape, or
equivalent, to the underside of the repair area to
backup the repair material.
NOTICE: Before going to the next step, be sure
all of the paint (both topcoat and primer) has been
removed from the area where the structural adhe-
sive is to be applied.

CHASSIS SWEET MEWL 2C-5
4. Mix 3M #05900 Structural Adhesive, or equiv-
alent, according to instructions on package. For
best results, use a 2-step application. First, mix
only enough for a thin coat.
Mix adhesive thoroughly with mixing stick
enclosed in package, or a putty knife. HINT: If
you use the mixing stick, bevel the edge to form
a straight, rather than a rounded surface.
5. Apply adhesive over entire area with a rubber
squeegee. Step A: Apply a light coat over entire
area and allow to dry. Step
B: Mix and apply the
contour. Spread from edges of repair towards
center, filling all low areas.
6. Hand level with surrounding area using a 240-A
grit disc. Check for voids and low areas. If nec-
essary mix up more adhesive and apply to low
areas.
Allow each coat of adhesive to dry before apply-
ing subsequent coats. Drying can be quickened
by application of low heat (for example, a low
power heat lamp). DO NOT OVERHEAT.
After final coat, sand using a 320-A grit disc.
7. Scuff-sand entire panel with a 320 grit disc by
hand or with a random orbital type sander. Wipe
entire area to be painted with a clean dry cloth
and/or tack cloth per paint manufacturer's
instructions.
8. Paint panel using Inmont R-M Alpha-Cryl, or
with R-M 891 Urethane Catalyst Flex Agent, or
the Ditzler Elastomeric Enamel Flexible Paint System (DE type), or equivalent urethane paint
systems. Follow label directions.
Coloring Procedure:
1. THOROUGHLY CLEAN the entire surface
area with
3919s Prepsol (DuPont) or equivalent
solvent to insure a surface
free of
contamination.
2. To promote paint adhesion and insure a smooth
surface, a light scuff-sanding with #400-grit
sandpaper (wet or dry) is recommended.
3. Repeat cleaning of the surface.
4. Mask off areas of car not to be painted using
masking tape and paper.
5. Thoroughly mix the color coat, additive and
thinner as suggested on the label directions.
NOTICE: Mix only that which is needed, noting
that pot life is 2-3 hours.
6. Using 35 lbs. of pressure at the gun, spray panel
with
2 or 3 coats (depending on the need) allow-
ing 2-3 minutes flash time between each coat.
Use a final mist coat for metallics.
7. Allow paint to cure 2-4 hours before handling.
8. COMPOUNDING reduces the gloss. For this
reason rubbing compound should be used
only
if a reduction of gloss is desired.
PAINT COLOR MATCHING
If a color coat mismatch between the original
color and the repair material is encountered during
paint repair, a closer color match can be accomplished
by following these recommendations. Assistance may
also be solicited from the manufacturing repre-
sentative of the paint supplier.
1. Stir the paint thoroughly both before and after
thinning.
2. If the repair is too light and metallic looking
after spraying a couple of coats, it can be dark-
ened by spraying
several wet coats. One or more
of the following adjustments can be made to
produce a wetter spray:
a. Open fluid feed valve more.
b. Reduce size of pattern.
c. Decrease gun distance.
d. Slow down stroke.
e. Allow less flash time between coats.
f.
Case should be taken to prevent flooding
and mottling.
3. If
the repair is too dark, spray several coats that
are lighter and more metallic looking. Reverse
the above adjustments using one or more of the
following:
a. Close fluid valve slightly.
b. Increase the size
of the pattern.
c. Increase gun distance.
d. Speed up stroke.
e. Increase flash time between
coats.
f. Care should be
taken, as dry spray
increases orange peel.
4. When matching a difficult color that has a line
of definition, such as a panel or spot repair on an
edge, blend the fourth and fifth coats into the
adjacent panel.
5. Experienced painters generally have the ability
to tint colors for incorrect color hue. Tinting
guides are available from the various paint man-
ufacturers for those who have the base tinting
colors and the ability to tint colors to match.
REMEMBER
- The true color of metallics
will not come through until the finish has been com-
pounded and buffed.
Painting Primed Service Replacement
Urethane Panels
Follow Steps 1 thru 8 under "Coloring
Procedure.
"

866 CHASSIS SHEET METAL
PROPER IDENTIFICATION AND CDAlrUmNG
OF INTERIOR PWSTIC TRlM
Interior plastic trim parts are normally supplied
in only one color. It is necessary to paint most parts.
Most vinyl headlinings and soft vinyl seat cushion and
hack cover assemblies are furnished in colors.
Instructions on how to identify each paintable
plastic part, and how to apply the available paint
materials are as follows:
Paintable plastic trim components, as used on
General Motors interiors, can be divided into three
general types:
@ Polypropylene Plastic
@ ABS Plastic
@ Vinyl Plastic
Excluding the soft vinyl seat cushion and seat
back trim cover assemblies, the plastic used most
widely on the interior of bodies is "POLYPROPYL-
ENE" and, as noted later, requires special refinishing
materials and procedures. Therefore, it is important
for a painter to be able to identify each plastic in order
to paint it satisfactorily. The purpose of the following
tests is to determine the identity of a given plastic so
that the proper paint procedure and refinishing mate-
rials will be used.
TEST PROCEDURE
Polypropylene, ABS or Vinyl Plastic
From a hidden backside portion of the part,
remove a sliver of plastic with a sharp blade.
Holding the sliver with needle-nose pliers, put it
to a flame and observe whether or not any
smoke is given off when burning.
ABS PLASTIC will give off a HEAVY BLACK
SMOKE, and POLYPROPYLENE will burn
clean.
However, if a sliver gives off OTHER THAN
HEAVY BLACK SMOKE, it is either DIRTY
POLYPROPYLENE OR IS VINYL. To deter-
mine which it is, the following burn test should
be made with the hot tip of a clean copper wire.
Heat the tip of the copper wire to a "red-glow"
with a propane (gas) torch.
Touch the heated wire to a hidden portion of the
plastic in question, to get some of the plastic on
the wire.
Return the wire, with its
now plastic-coated tip,
to the flame and observe for flame color.
If the flame given off from the wire is of the
GREEN-TURQUOISE-BLUE RANGE, then
the PLASTIC IS VINYL. (Any other color
flame would indicate the material is dirty poly-
propylene.
)
PAINWING lNTERiOR PWSTIC PARTS
Before painting, always check the body number
plate of the car for the
correct trim code color number
for that model year. The body number plate is located
on the upper horizontal surface of the shroud. Interior
color is color keyed to this "Trim Combination Num-
ber" (TR) on the body plate. Each paint supplier pro-
vides an interior color chart which identifies their
stock number, color name, gloss factor and trim com-
bination number for each "conventional" interior
color. Charts listing "vinyl" interior colors are also
provided.
"CONVENTIONAL" interior acrylic colors are
designed for use only on hard trim parts, such as:
1. Steel parts (primer or sealer required on new
service parts).
2. Hard POLYPROPYLENE plastic ("Special
Primer" required
- See GM Parts Catalog).
3. Hard ABS plastic (NO primer necessary).
"VINYL" interior colors are designed for soft
and/or flexible trim parts, such as instrument panel
cover pad assemblies, upper door trim pad assem-
blies, molded headlining panels, head rests and assist
handles. These colors require a final top coat of clear
vinyl spray, with instrument panel pads requiring a
"nonglare" clear final top coat. Other trim parts
require a degree of gloss to match similar adjacent
parts.
POLYPROPYLENE PUSTIC PARTS
The system for painting polypropylene parts
involves the use of a special primer. It is essential that
the service part be first primed with a coating of spe-
cial POLYPROPYLENE PRIMER (Detroit
Autobody
#PP-2250, or equivalent) according to factory recom-
mendations on the can. Because the primer acts as a
bonding agent between the plastic and acrylic lacquer, failure to use it will result in color coat "lifting"
and/or
"peeling" problems. After priming, the part can be
color coated with conventional interior acrylic
lacquer,
PROCEDURE
1. Wash part thoroughly with a cleaning solvent ("Acryli-Clean," "Prep-Sol," or equivalent) that
will not leave any greasy film.
2. Apply a thin, wet coat of the special polypropyl-
ene primer according to label directions on can.
Wetness of primer is best determined by observ-
ing gloss reflection of spray application in ade-
quate lighting. Be sure primer application
includes all edges. Allow
the primer to flash dry
ONE (1) MINUTE MINIMUM and TEN (10)
MINUTES MAXIMUM. (If the flash period
before color coating should extend beyond ten
minutes, the primer MUST be reapplied to
avoid previously mentioned adhesion
problems
.)

CHASSIS SHEET METAL 2@-7
3. During the above flash time period (1 to 10 min-
utes), apply appropriate "conventional" interior acrylic lacquer color as required and allow
painted part to dry for
4 to 5 hours before install-
ing on car.
RlGlD OW HARD ABS PMS"TIC PARTS
Rigid or hard ABS plastic requires no primer.
"Conventional" interior acrylic lacquers adhere satis-
factorily to hard ABS plastics.
Procedure
1. Wash part thoroughly with a cleaning solvent
(Acrylic-Clean, Pre-Kleano, Prep-Sol or equiv-
alent) to remove any dirt or grease.
2. Apply appropriate "conventional" interior
acrylic lacquer color. Apply only sufficient
color for proper hiding to avoid washout of
"grain" effect.
3. Allow to dry and then install part.
VINYL AND FLEXIBLE (Son) ABS
PLASTIC PARTS
The outer cover or skin material of "flexible"
instrument panel cover (pad) assemblies is made of an
ABSIPVC plastic blend. The same is true of many
"padded" door trim assemblies. The soft cushion pad-
ding under the I.P. skin is urethane foam plastic. The
most widely used
"flexible" vinyls (poly vinyl chlo-
ride)
are coated fabrics, such as used in seat trim,
some door trim assemblies, molded headlining panels
and sun visors. Most head rests are "flexible" vinyls.
Examples of "hard vinyls are: door and front seat
back assist handles and coat hooks.
The paint system of vinyl and flexible ABS
plastic involves the use of interior "vinyl" color and a
clear vinyl top coat.
Procedure
1. Wash part thoroughly with a vinyl cleaning and
preparation solvent ("Vinyl Press"
- Ditzler,
"Vinyl Prep Conditioner"
- Detroit Autobody
or equivalent) to remove greasy film or silicone.
Wipe off cleaner while still wet with clean,
lint-
free cloth.
2. Immediately after wiping face dry, apply inte-
rior "vinyl" color in wet coats allowing suffi-
cient flash time between coats (see label
directions on can). Use proper "vinyl" color as
designated by interior trim combinations. Apply
only sufficient color for proper hiding to avoid
washout of "grain" effect. No primer or
primer-
sealer is required.
3. Before the final vinyl color coat has dried, apply
two coats of clear vinyl top coat spray (instru-
ment panels will require the "nonglare" clear top
coat). Do not allow the first spray coat to com-
pletely dry before spraying on the second. Use
top coat with appropriate gloss level to match adjacent similar components. This
clear coat is
necessary to control the gloss requirement and
prevent
'tracking" (rubbing-off) of the color
coat after drying.
4. Allow to dry according to label directions before
installing part.
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
CONCEALED HEADLIGHTS
The concealed headlights used on this model are
electrically operated. When the headlights are turned
on, solid state circuitry activates the actuators. This
same circuitry senses when the actuators stop moving
and removes the ground to deactivate the actuators.
When the headlights are turned off, the actuators run
in opposite direction closing the headlight doors.
Should an electrical failure occur in the head-
light circuit, they may be raised manually by rotating
the knob on the actuator in a counterclockwise direc-
tion until the headlights are fully open. The headlights
may be lowered by rotating the knob on the actuator in
a clockwise direction until the headlights are fully
closed.
For electrical circuit information and diagnosis,
refer to Section
8A of this manual.
If it is desired to raise the headlights with the
lights off, either of the following procedures may be
used:
1. Turn the lights on. After the headlights are
open, disconnect the electrical connections at
the actuator connectors. Turn the lights off. The
headlights will now remain in the open position.
2. Turn the parking lights on. Depress the head-
light rocker switch lightly. The headlights may
then be raised "up" fully with the lights off.
Adjust
Because of the number of adjustments possible
and the number of attaching points of the concealed
headlight body assembly
(9), only those attachments
which control the adjustment desired should be loos-
ened. Make one
adjbstment at a time.
NOTICE: The headlight door does NOT have
slotted mounting holes and therefore is not
adjustable by itself. This insures proper clearance
between the headlight door and the hood and
fenders in both the raised and lowered positions.
The entire headlight body assembly must be
adjusted to achieve the desired appearance and
fit. Care should be exercised when adjusting the
headlight body assembly. Severe hammer blows could damage the die cast aluminum headlight
body assembly.
TO RAISE OR LOWER the headlight body
assembly, proceed as follows:
1. Open hood.
2. Raise headlights.

26-8 CHASSIS SWEET METAL
3. Remove headlight bezel.
4. If necessary, move battery rearward to gain
access to rear screw.
5. Lower headlights.
6. Loosen two body screws and adjust headlight
body.
7. If a satisfactory appearance is still not obtained,
remove lower air deflector to gain access to
number 1 and number 2 screws.
8. Loosen two body screws and adjust headlight
body.
9. Repeat procedure, if necessary, to obtain a satis-
factory appearance.
10. Re-position battery and tighten hold-down
screw to specifications.
11. Install lower air deflector.
12. Install headlight bezel.
TO SET FRONT TO REAR
GAP between
headlight door and hood, proceed as follows:
1. Open hood.
2. Raise headlights.
3. Remove headlight bezel.
4. Lower headlights.
5. Loosen two body assembly screws and adjust
headlight body assembly.
6. If a satisfactory appearance is still not obtained,
remove lower air deflector to gain access to two
lower screws.
7. Loosen two lower screws and adjust headlight
body assembly.
8. Repeat procedure, if necessary.
9. Install lower air deflector.
10. Install headlight bezel.
TO SET SIDE-TO-SIDE GAP between head-
light door and hood and headlight door and fender,
proceed as follows:
Open hood.
Raise headlights. Remove headlight bezel.
If necessary, move battery rearward to gain
access to rear screw.
Lower headlights.
Loosen three body screws and adjust headlight
body.
If a satisfactory appearance is still not obtained,
remove lower air deflector to gain access to two
lower screws.
Loosen two lower screws and adjust headlight
body.
Repeat procedure, if necessary.
Re-position battery and tighten hold-down
screw to specifications.
Install lower air deflector.
Install headlight bezel. TO
SET CONTOUR of headlight door to hood,
proceed as follows:
1. Open hood.
2. Raise headlights.
3. Remove headlight bezel.
4. Lower headlights.
5. Loosen two (2) screws and adjust headlight
body assembly.
6. If a satisfactory appearance is still not obtained,
remove lower air deflector to gain access to two
lower screws.
7. Loosen two lower screws and adjust headlight
body assembly.
8. Repeat procedure, if necessary.
9. Install lower air deflector.
10. Install headlight bezel.
HEADLIGHT BODY ASSEMBLY
Remove or Disconnect
1. Rear headlight door attaching screws.
2. Raise headlight doors.
3. Headlight bezel attaching screws.
4. Front headlight door attaching screws and
remove headlight door.
5. Electrical connection at bulb.
6. Lower air deflector (one side only).
7. Headlight body assembly attaching screws and
disconnect electrical connection at actuator
connector.
8. Link.
9. Actuator crank arm.
10. Actuator retaining screws and remove actuator.
11. Unhook headlight capsule lower retaining
spring and remove headlight capsule assembly.
12. Headlight body assembly attaching brackets and
fasteners.
Install or Connect
1. Headlight body assembly attaching brackets and
fasteners.
2. Headlight capsule lower retaining spring and
install headlight capsule
3. Acuator retaining screws and install actuator.
4. Actuator crank arm.
5. Link.
6. Headlight body assembly attaching screws and
connect electrical connection at actuator
connector.
7. Lower air deflector (one side only).
8. Electrical connection at bulb.
9. Front headlight door attaching screws and install
headlight door.

10. Headlight bezel attaching screws.
11. Lower headlight doors.
12. Rear headlight door attaching screws.
ACTUATOR
Remove or Disconnect
1. Battery.
2. Raise headlight door manually.
3. Headlight bezel attaching screws.
4. Pry off link assembly.
5. Actuator crank arm attaching screw. Support the
crank
arm during removal so as not to damage
the actuator.
6. Actuator electrical connector.
7. Actuator attaching screws and remove actuator.
Install or Connect
1, Actuator attaching screws and install actuator.
2, Actuator electrical connector.
3. Actuator crank arm attaching screw.
4. Link assembly.
5. Headlight bezel attaching screws.
6. Battery.
HOOD HINGE
Hood hinges are fastened to the fender panel.
Two gas struts are used (one at each hinge); both ends
of which are fastened to the front portion of the hinge
assembly. This construction provides hold-open
power. Several struts are used depending upon hood
material and configuration. Make certain both struts
have the same color coding if the struts are to be
replaced.
FENDER PANEL
An outer fender panel with a plastic inner panel
is used. Care should be used in handling raw fenders
due to the lack of fender rigidity prior to installation.
See the illustrated service procedures for installation.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Raise car part way on hoist.
2. Lower air deflector attaching screws and push-
in retainer to wheelhouse and remove both sides
of air deflector.
3. Fascia to fender attaching nuts.
4. Wheelhouse to fender inner panel attaching
screws.
5. Lower fender brace attaching screws.
6. Lower rear fender attaching screw.
7. Hood hinge to fender attaching screws and prop
hood open.
-
8. The upper fender attaching screws.
CHASSIS SHEET METAL 2C-9
9. Antenna escutcheon from fender.
10. Side marker lamp electrical connection and
remove the fender from the vehicle.
11. Strip the fender of the side marker lamp, fender
wheelhouse, fasteners and moldings.
install or Conned
To install, reverse removal procedure.
FRONT END PANEL
Remove or Disconnect
1. Raise car part way on hoist.
2. Lower air deflector attaching screws and push-
in retainer to wheelhouse and remove both sides
of air deflector.
3. Fascia to fender attaching nuts.
4. Fascia to reinforcement push-in retainers.
5. Lower car.
6. Parking lamp attaching screws.
7. Upper reinforcement attaching screws and
remove front end panel.
8. Left and right grilles.
9. Front end panel reinforcement attaching screws
and fasteners from fascia.
Install or Conned
To install, reverse removal procedure.
FIREBIRD AERO ACCESSORIES
BOOR LOWER AIR
DEFLECmR
Remove or Disconnect
1. All door trim pad hardware.
2. Loosen bottom and sides of door trim pad. Do
not remove pad.
3. Gently lift bottom of door trim pad to gain
access to nuts.
4. Three nuts (Acl) from inside door panel.
5. Two external nuts (#2) from door panel.
6. Deflector.
NOTICE: If studs that are attached to the deflec-
tor come out with the nut, they can be reinstalled
in the deflector. Remove nut from stud and rein-
stall stud in deflector.
Install or Conned
To install, reverse removal procedure.

2C-10 CHASSIS SHEET METAL
ROCKER PANEL AIR DEFLECTOR
Remove or Disconnect
1. Five top screws (#I).
2. Hoist car.
3. Seven bolts holding rocker panel rubber
air
deflector
(#2) and remove.
4. Seven screws holding rocker deflector to bottom
of rocker panel
(#3).
5. Two screws holding rear rocker deflector to rear
wheel opening
(#4).
6. Five
push type fasteners at the lower rear of the
wheel well splash shield, lift shield to gain
access to the two forward nuts.
7. Two nuts (#5) from rocker deflector front to
fender.
8. Rocker deflector.
9. Nine screws holding rocker panel deflector
support.
10. Support.
Install or Connect
To install, reverse removal procedure.
REAR BUMPER FASCIA EXTENSION
Remove or Disconnect
1. Hoist car,
2. Drill out
eight fascia extension to fascia rivets
(#I) (four each side). Four
bolts from fascia extension to lower quar-
ter panel
(#2).
Five (each side) push clips from fascia to sup-
port
(443).
Four screws from rear fascia extension to fender
(#4).
Lower car.
Right side trunk trim and spare tire.
Rear trim panel.
Left trim panel.
Right and left side fascia and fascia extension
nuts (six each side)
(#5).
Right and left tail lamp wing nuts and remove
housing.
Seven fascia push nuts and disconnect electrical
connector for license plate
(#6).
Rear bumper fascia from car.
Twelve (six each side) fascia extension to fascia
retaining nuts and remove fascia extension
(#7).
Install or Connect
To install, reverse removal procedure.

CHASSIS SHEEP METAL 26-11
1-MOLDING R&L 4-SCREEN R&L
2-EXTRACTOR R&L 5-REAR FLANGE
3-RETAINER
Figure 2 Front Fender Ornamentation

2C-12 CHASSIS SHEET METAL
1. HOOD ASM.
2. INSULATOR
3. SEAL ASM.
4. RETAINER
5. SPRING
6. LATCH ASM.
7. BOLTISCREW
8. STRIKER
9. FRT. END PANEL SUPPORT
10. CABLE
11. PRESS END OF CABLE INTO
EXISTING
CLIP
12. BUMPER
13. ADJUSTMENT SCREW
14. FENDER ASSEMBLY
15.
10 N-rn (89 LBS. IN.)
16. WELD NUT
17. ROD ASSEMBLY
18. HINGE
19. RETAINER
Figure 3 Hood and Fenders

CHASSIS SHEET METAL 26-13
1-REINFORCEMENT ASM. 5-FRAME 8-FRONT DEFLECTOR
6-FRONT FENDER ASM. 9-FASCIA,
FRONT END PANEL ASM.
3-BOLTISCR EW 7-LOWER DEFLECTOR
4-NUT
Figure 4 Front End Trim