DODGE RAM 2001 Service Repair Manual

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐPERFORMANCE
PERFORMANCE DIAGNOSIS CHARTÐGASOLINE ENGINES
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
ENGINE WILL NOT
CRANK1. Weak or dead battery 1. Charge/Replace Battery. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/BATTERY SYSTEM/
BATTERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
Check charging system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/CHARGING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
2. Corroded or loose battery
connections2. Clean/tighten suspect battery/starter
connections
3. Faulty starter or related circuit(s) 3. Check starting system. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/STARTING - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
4. Seized accessory drive component 4. Remove accessory drive belt and
attempt to start engine. If engine starts,
repair/replace seized component.
5. Engine internal mechanical failure or
hydro-static lock5. Refer to (Refer to 9 - ENGINE -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
ENGINE CRANKS BUT
WILL NOT START1. No spark 1. Check for spark. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL -
DESCRIPTION)
2. No fuel 2. Perform fuel pressure test, and if
necessary, inspect fuel injector(s) and
driver circuits. (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/FUEL PUMP
- DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
3. Low or no engine compression 3. Perform cylinder compression pressure
test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING).
ENGINE LOSS OF
POWER1. Worn or burned distributor rotor 1. Install new distributor rotor
2. Worn distributor shaft 2. Remove and repair distributor (Refer to
8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
DISTRIBUTOR - REMOVAL).
3. Worn or incorrect gapped spark
plugs3. Clean plugs and set gap. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
SPARK PLUG - CLEANING).
4. Dirt or water in fuel system 4. Clean system and replace fuel filter
5. Faulty fuel pump 5. Install new fuel pump
6. Incorrect valve timing 6. Correct valve timing
7. Blown cylinder head gasket 7. Install new cylinder head gasket
8. Low compression 8. Test cylinder compression (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
9. Burned, warped, or pitted valves 9. Install/Reface valves as necessary
10. Plugged or restricted exhaust
system10. Install new parts as necessary
9 - 4 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
11. Faulty ignition cables 11. Replace any cracked or shorted
cables
12. Faulty ignition coil 12. Test and replace, as necessary (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/IGNITION COIL - REMOVAL).
ENGINE STALLS OR
ROUGH IDLE1. Carbon build-up on throttle plate 1. Remove throttle body and de-carbon.
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
INJECTION/THROTTLE BODY -
REMOVAL).
2. Engine idle speed too low 2. Check Idle Air Control circuit. (Refer to
14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
IDLE AIR CONTROL MOTOR -
DESCRIPTION)
3. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs3. Replace or clean and re-gap spark
plugs (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING)
4. Worn or burned distributor rotor 4. Install new distributor rotor
5. Spark plug cables defective or
crossed5. Check for correct firing order or
replace spark plug cables. (Refer to 8 -
ELECTRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/
SPARK PLUG CABLE - DIAGNOSIS
AND TESTING)
6. Faulty coil 6. Test and replace, if necessary (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/IGNITION COIL - REMOVAL)
7. Intake manifold vacuum leak 7. Inspect intake manifold gasket and
vacuum hoses (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
ENGINE MISSES ON
ACCELERATION1. Worn or incorrectly gapped spark
plugs1. Replace spark plugs or clean and set
gap. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
CLEANING)
2. Spark plug cables defective or
crossed2. Replace or rewire secondary ignition
cables. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG
CABLE - REMOVAL)
3. Dirt in fuel system 3. Clean fuel system
4. Burned, warped or pitted valves 4. Install new valves
5. Faulty coil 5. Test and replace as necessary (Refer
to 8 - ELECTRICAL/IGNITION
CONTROL/IGNITION COIL - REMOVAL)
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 5
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐ MECHANICAL
ENGINE MECHANICAL DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
NOISY VALVES/LIFTERS 1. High or low oil level in crankcase 1. Check for correct oil level. Adjust oil
level by draining or adding as needed
2. Thin or diluted oil 2. Change oil. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION/OIL - STANDARD
PROCEDURE)
3. Low oil pressure 3. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform
oil pressure test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING) for engine oil pressure
test/specifications
4. Dirt in tappets/lash adjusters 4. Clean/replace hydraulic tappets/lash
adjusters
5. Bent push rod(s) 5. Install new push rods
6. Worn rocker arms 6. Inspect oil supply to rocker arms and
replace worn arms as needed
7. Worn tappets/lash adjusters 7. Install new hydraulic tappets/lash
adjusters
8. Worn valve guides 8. Inspect all valve guides and replace as
necessary
9. Excessive runout of valve seats or
valve faces9. Grind valves and seats
CONNECTING ROD
NOISE1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform
oil pressure test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING) engine oil pressure test/
specifications
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity. (Refer
to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/OIL -
STANDARD PROCEDURE) for correct
procedure/engine oil specifications
4. Excessive connecting rod bearing
clearanceMeasure bearings for correct clearance
with plasti-gage. Repair as necessary
5. Connecting rod journal out of round 5. Replace crankshaft or grind journals
6. Misaligned connecting rods 6. Replace bent connecting rods
MAIN BEARING NOISE 1. Insufficient oil supply 1. Check engine oil level.
2. Low oil pressure 2. Check engine oil level. If ok, Perform
oil pressure test. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/
LUBRICATION - DIAGNOSIS AND
TESTING)
3. Thin or diluted oil 3. Change oil to correct viscosity.
9 - 6 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
4. Excessive main bearing clearance 4. Measure bearings for correct
clearance. Repair as necessary
5. Excessive end play 5. Check crankshaft thrust bearing for
excessive wear on flanges
6. Crankshaft main journal out of
round or worn6. Grind journals or replace crankshaft
7. Loose flywheel or torque converter 7. Inspect crankshaft, flexplate/flywheel
and bolts for damage. Tighten to correct
torque
LOW OIL PRESSURE 1. Low oil level 1. Check oil level and fill if necessary
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit 2. Install new sending unit
3. Clogged oil filter 3. Install new oil filter
4. Worn oil pump 4. Replace oil pump assembly.
5. Thin or diluted oil 5. Change oil to correct viscosity.
6. Excessive bearing clearance 6. Measure bearings for correct clearance
7. Oil pump relief valve stuck 7. Remove valve to inspect, clean and
reinstall
8. Oil pump suction tube loose,
broken, bent or clogged8. Inspect suction tube and clean or
replace if necessary
9. Oil pump cover warped or cracked 9. Install new oil pump
OIL LEAKS 1. Misaligned or deteriorated gaskets 1. Replace gasket
2. Loose fastener, broken or porous
metal part2. Tighten, repair or replace the part
3. Front or rear crankshaft oil seal
leaking3. Replace seal
4. Leaking oil gallery plug or cup plug 4. Remove and reseal threaded plug.
Replace cup style plug
EXCESSIVE OIL
CONSUMPTION OR
SPARK PLUGS OIL
FOULED1. CCV System malfunction 1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL/
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS -
DESCRIPTION) for correct operation
2. Defective valve stem seal(s) 2. Repair or replace seal(s)
3. Worn or broken piston rings 3. Hone cylinder bores. Install new rings
4. Scuffed pistons/cylinder walls 4. Hone cylinder bores and replace
pistons as required
5. Carbon in oil control ring groove 5. Remove rings and de-carbon piston
6. Worn valve guides 6. Inspect/replace valve guides as
necessary
7. Piston rings fitted too tightly in
grooves7. Remove rings and check ring end gap
and side clearance. Replace if necessary
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 7
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐLUBRICATION
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSES CORRECTION
OIL LEAKS 1. Gaskets and O-Rings. 1.
(a) Misaligned or damaged. (a) Replace as necessary.
(b) Loose fasteners, broken or
porous metal parts.(b) Tighten fasteners, Repair or
replace metal parts.
2. Crankshaft rear seal 2. Replace as necessary.
3. Crankshaft seal flange.
Scratched, nicked or grooved.3. Polish or replace crankshaft.
4. Oil pan flange cracked. 4. Replace oil pan.
5. Timing chain cover seal,
damaged or misaligned.5. Replace seal.
6. Scratched or damaged vibration
damper hub.6. Polish or replace damper.
OIL PRESSURE DROP 1. Low oil level. 1. Check and correct oil level.
2. Faulty oil pressure sending unit. 2. Replace sending unit.
3. Low oil pressure. 3. Check pump and bearing
clearance.
4. Clogged oil filter. 4. Replace oil filter.
5. Worn oil pump. 5. Replace as necessary.
6. Thin or diluted oil. 6. Change oil and filter.
7. Excessive bearing clearance. 7. Replace as necessary.
8. Oil pump relief valve stuck. 8. Clean or replace relief valve.
9. Oil pump suction tube loose or
damaged.9. Replace as necessary.
OIL PUMPING AT RINGS; SPARK
PLUGS FOULING1. Worn or damaged rings. 1. Hone cylinder bores and replace
rings.
2. Carbon in oil ring slots. 2. Replace rings.
3. Incorrect ring size installed. 3. Replace rings.
4. Worn valve guides. 4. Ream guides and replace valves.
5. Leaking intake gasket. 5. Replace intake gaskets.
6. Leaking valve guide seals. 6. Replace valve guide seals.
9 - 8 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMPRESSION PRESSURE
The results of a cylinder compression pressure test
can be utilized to diagnose several engine malfunc-
tions.
Ensure the battery is completely charged and the
engine starter motor is in good operating condition.
Otherwise, the indicated compression pressures may
not be valid for diagnosis purposes.
(1) Clean the spark plug recesses with compressed
air.
(2) Remove the spark plugs (Refer to 8 - ELEC-
TRICAL/IGNITION CONTROL/SPARK PLUG -
REMOVAL).
(3) Secure the throttle in the wide-open position.
(4) Disconnect the ignition coil.
(5) Insert a compression pressure gauge and rotate
the engine with the engine starter motor for three
revolutions.
(6) Record the compression pressure on the third
revolution. Continue the test for the remaining cylin-
ders.
(Refer to 9 - ENGINE - SPECIFICATIONS) for the
correct engine compression pressures.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐCYLINDER
COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE
The combustion pressure leakage test provides an
accurate means for determining engine condition.
Combustion pressure leakage testing will detect:
²Exhaust and intake valve leaks (improper seat-
ing)
²Leaks between adjacent cylinders or into water
jacket²Any causes for combustion/compression pressure
loss
WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE RADIATOR CAP
WITH THE SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE.
SERIOUS BURNS FROM HOT COOLANT CAN
OCCUR.
Check the coolant level and fill as required. DO
NOT install the radiator cap.
Start and operate the engine until it attains nor-
mal operating temperature, then turn OFF the
engine.
Remove the spark plugs.
Remove the oil filler cap.
Remove the air cleaner.
Calibrate the tester according to the manufactur-
er's instructions. The shop air source for testing
should maintain 483 kPa (70 psi) minimum, 1,379
kPa (200 psi) maximum and 552 kPa (80 psi) recom-
mended.
Perform the test procedure on each cylinder accord-
ing to the tester manufacturer's instructions. While
testing, listen for pressurized air escaping through
the throttle body, tailpipe or oil filler cap opening.
Check for bubbles in the radiator coolant.
All gauge pressure indications should be equal,
with no more than 25% leakage.
FOR EXAMPLE:At 552 kPa (80 psi) input pres-
sure, a minimum of 414 kPa (60 psi) should be main-
tained in the cylinder.
Refer to CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE
LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART below
CYLINDER COMBUSTION PRESSURE LEAKAGE DIAGNOSIS CHART
CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
THROTTLE BODYIntake valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
TAILPIPEExhaust valve bent, burnt, or not
seated properlyInspect valve and valve seat.
Reface or replace, as necessary
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH
RADIATORHead gasket leaking or cracked
cylinder head or blockRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace defective part
MORE THAN 50% LEAKAGE
FROM ADJACENT CYLINDERSHead gasket leaking or crack in
cylinder head or block between
adjacent cylindersRemove cylinder head and inspect.
Replace gasket, head, or block as
necessary
MORE THAN 25% LEAKAGE AND
AIR ESCAPES THROUGH OIL
FILLER CAP OPENING ONLYStuck or broken piston rings;
cracked piston; worn rings and/or
cylinder wallInspect for broken rings or piston.
Measure ring gap and cylinder
diameter, taper and out-of-round.
Replace defective part as necessary
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 9
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTINGÐREAR SEAL AREA
LEAKS
Since it is sometimes difficult to determine the
source of an oil leak in the rear seal area of the
engine, a more involved inspection is necessary. The
following steps should be followed to help pinpoint
the source of the leak.
If the leakage occurs at the crankshaft rear oil seal
area:
(1) Disconnect the battery.
(2) Raise the vehicle.
(3) Remove torque converter or clutch housing
cover and inspect rear of block for evidence of oil.
Use a black light to check for the oil leak:
(a) Circular spray pattern generally indicates
seal leakage or crankshaft damage.
(b) Where leakage tends to run straight down,
possible causes are a porous block, distributor seal,
camshaft bore cup plugs, oil galley pipe plugs, oil
filter runoff, and main bearing cap to cylinder
block mating surfaces.
(4) If no leaks are detected, pressurized the crank-
case as outlined in (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICA-
TION - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
CAUTION: Do not exceed 20.6 kPa (3 psi).
(5) If the leak is not detected, very slowly turn the
crankshaft and watch for leakage. If a leak is
detected between the crankshaft and seal while
slowly turning the crankshaft, it is possible the
crankshaft seal surface is damaged. The seal area on
the crankshaft could have minor nicks or scratches
that can be polished out with emery cloth.
CAUTION: Use extreme caution when crankshaft
polishing is necessary to remove minor nicks or
scratches. The crankshaft seal flange is specially
machined to complement the function of the rear oil
seal.
(6) For bubbles that remain steady with shaft
rotation, no further inspection can be done until dis-
assembled. Refer to the service DiagnosisÐMechani-
cal, under the Oil Leak row, for components
inspections on possible causes and corrections.
(7) After the oil leak root cause and appropriate
corrective action have been identified, (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/CRANKSHAFT OIL
SEAL - REAR - REMOVAL), for proper replacement
procedures.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐCYLINDER BORE
HONING
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels
under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep
abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft
area.
(1) Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone
C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool
for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce
taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light
scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes
will clean up a bore and maintain the required lim-
its.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove
cylinder wall glaze.
(2) Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if
the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylin-
der surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped
with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60
strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be suf-
ficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing
oil C-3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from
major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil,
mineral spirits, or kerosene.
(3) Honing should be done by moving the hone up
and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern.
The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50É to 60É
for proper seating of rings (Fig. 3).
Fig. 3 Cylinder Bore Crosshatch Pattern
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN
2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
9 - 10 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

(4) A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and
300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper cross-
hatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per
minute can be regulated to get the desired 50É to 60É
angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the cross-
hatch angle.
(5) After honing, it is necessary that the block be
cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush
to wash parts with a solution of hot water and deter-
gent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-
free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the
bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐHYDROSTATIC
LOCK
CAUTION: DO NOT use the starter motor to rotate
the crankshaft. Severe damage could occur.
When an engine is suspected of hydrostatic lock
(regardless of what caused the problem), follow the
steps below.
(1) Perform the Fuel Pressure Release Procedure
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(2) Disconnect the negative cable(s) from the bat-
tery.
(3) Inspect air cleaner, induction system, and
intake manifold to ensure system is dry and clear of
foreign material.
(4) Place a shop towel around the spark plugs to
catch any fluid that may possibly be under pressure
in the cylinder head. Remove the spark plugs.
(5) With all spark plugs removed, rotate the crank-
shaft using a breaker bar and socket.
(6) Identify the fluid in the cylinders (coolant, fuel,
oil, etc.).
(7) Be sure all fluid has been removed from the
cylinders.
(8) Repair engine or components as necessary to
prevent this problem from occurring again.
(9) Squirt a small amount of engine oil into the
cylinders to lubricate the walls. This will prevent
damage on restart.
(10) Install new spark plugs. Tighten the spark
plugs to 41 N´m (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
(11) Drain engine oil. Remove and discard the oil
filter.
(12) Install the drain plug. Tighten the plug to 34
N´m (25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install a new oil filter.
(14) Fill engine crankcase with the specified
amount and grade of oil. (Refer to LUBRICATION &
MAINTENANCE - SPECIFICATIONS).
(15) Connect the negative cable(s) to the battery.
(16) Start the engine and check for any leaks.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐREPAIR DAMAGED
OR WORN THREADS
CAUTION: Be sure that the tapped holes maintain
the original center line.
Damaged or worn threads can be repaired. Essen-
tially, this repair consists of:
²Drilling out worn or damaged threads.
²Tapping the hole with a special Heli-Coil Tap, or
equivalent.
²Installing an insert into the tapped hole to bring
the hole back to its original thread size.
STANDARD PROCEDUREÐFORM-IN-PLACE
GASKETS & SEALERS
There are numerous places where form-in-place
gaskets are used on the engine. Care must be taken
when applying form-in-place gaskets to assure
obtaining the desired results.Do not use form-in-
place gasket material unless specified.Bead size,
continuity, and location are of great importance. Too
thin a bead can result in leakage while too much can
result in spill-over which can break off and obstruct
fluid feed lines. A continuous bead of the proper
width is essential to obtain a leak-free gasket.
There are numerous types of form-in-place gasket
materials that are used in the engine area. Mopart
Engine RTV GEN II, MopartATF-RTV, and Mopart
Gasket Maker gasket materials, each have different
properties and can not be used in place of the other.
MOPARtENGINE RTV GEN II
MopartEngine RTV GEN II is used to seal com-
ponents exposed to engine oil. This material is a spe-
cially designed black silicone rubber RTV that
retains adhesion and sealing properties when
exposed to engine oil. Moisture in the air causes the
material to cure. This material is available in three
ounce tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one
year this material will not properly cure. Always
inspect the package for the expiration date before
use.
MOPARtATF RTV
MopartATF RTV is a specifically designed black
silicone rubber RTV that retains adhesion and seal-
ing properties to seal components exposed to auto-
matic transmission fluid, engine coolants, and
moisture. This material is available in three ounce
tubes and has a shelf life of one year. After one year
this material will not properly cure. Always inspect
the package for the expiration date before use.
MOPARtGASKET MAKER
MopartGasket Maker is an anaerobic type gasket
material. The material cures in the absence of air
when squeezed between two metallic surfaces. It will
not cure if left in the uncovered tube. The anaerobic
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 11
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

material is for use between two machined surfaces.
Do not use on flexible metal flanges.
MOPARtGASKET SEALANT
MopartGasket Sealant is a slow drying, perma-
nently soft sealer. This material is recommended for
sealing threaded fittings and gaskets against leakage
of oil and coolant. Can be used on threaded and
machined parts under all temperatures. This mate-
rial is used on engines with multi-layer steel (MLS)
cylinder head gaskets. This material also will pre-
vent corrosion. MopartGasket Sealant is available in
a 13 oz. aerosol can or 4oz./16 oz. can w/applicator.
FORM-IN-PLACE GASKET AND SEALER
APPLICATION
Assembling parts using a form-in-place gasket
requires care but it's easier then using precut gas-
kets.
MopartGasket Maker material should be applied
sparingly 1 mm (0.040 in.) diameter or less of sealant
to one gasket surface. Be certain the material sur-
rounds each mounting hole. Excess material can eas-
ily be wiped off. Components should be torqued in
place within 15 minutes. The use of a locating dowel
is recommended during assembly to prevent smear-
ing material off the location.
MopartEngine RTV GEN II or ATF RTV gasket
material should be applied in a continuous bead
approximately 3 mm (0.120 in.) in diameter. All
mounting holes must be circled. For corner sealing, a
3.17 or 6.35 mm (1/8 or 1/4 in.) drop is placed in the
center of the gasket contact area. Uncured sealant
may be removed with a shop towel. Components
should be torqued in place while the sealant is still
wet to the touch (within 10 minutes). The usage of a
locating dowel is recommended during assembly to
prevent smearing material off the location.
MopartGasket Sealant in an aerosol can should be
applied using a thin, even coat sprayed completely
over both surfaces to be joined, and both sides of a
gasket. Then proceed with assembly. Material in a
can w/applicator can be brushed on evenly over the
sealing surfaces. Material in an aerosol can should be
used on engines with multi-layer steel gaskets.
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
(2) Drain cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove the upper crossmember and top core
support.
(4) Remove the transmission oil cooler (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/TRANSMISSION/TRANS COOLER -
REMOVAL).(5) Discharge the air conditioning system, if
equipped (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDI-
TIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(6) Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(7) Remove the A/C compressor with the lines
attached. Set aside.
(8) If equipped, remove the condenser (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
A/C CONDENSER - REMOVAL).
(9) Remove the washer bottle.
(10) Remove the fan and fan shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(11) Remove radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - REMOVAL).
(12) Remove the generator with the wire connec-
tions (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/CHARGING/GEN-
ERATOR - REMOVAL).
(13) Remove the air cleaner box.
(14) Disconnect the throttle linkage.
(15) Remove throttle body (Refer to 14 - FUEL
SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/THROTTLE BODY -
REMOVAL).
(16) Remove the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
REMOVAL).
(17) Remove the distributor cap and wiring.
(18) Disconnect the heater hoses.
(19) Disconnect the power steering hoses, if
equipped.
(20) Perform the Fuel System Pressure release
procedure (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL
DELIVERY - STANDARD PROCEDURE).Disconnect
the fuel supply line (Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/
FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CONNECT FITTING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(21) On Manual Transmission vehicles, remove the
shift lever.
(22) Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist.
(23) Remove the drain plug and drain the engine
oil.
(24) Remove engine front mount through-bolt nuts.
(25)Automatic TransmissionRemove the trans-
mission cooler line brackets from oil pan.
(26) Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
(27) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRI-
CAL/STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL).
(28)Manual TransmissionRemove the transmis-
sion.(Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/
MANUAL - REMOVAL).
(29) Lower the vehicle.
CAUTION: DO NOT lift the engine by the intake
manifold.
(30) Install an engine lifting fixture.
9 - 12 ENGINE 3.9LBR/BE
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)

(31) Remove engine from vehicle and install
engine assembly on a repair stand.
INSTALLATION
(1) Remove engine from the repair stand and posi-
tion in the engine compartment. Position the
through-bolt into the support cushion brackets.
(2) Install an engine support fixture.
(3) Raise and support the vehicle on a hoist.
(4)Manual TransmissionInstall the transmis-
sion (Refer to 21 - TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE/
MANUAL - INSTALLATION).
(5) Install the starter and connect the starter
wires (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/
STARTER MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(6) Install exhaust pipe to manifold.
(7)Automatic TransmissionInstall the trans-
mission cooler line brackets on oil pan.
(8) Install engine front mount through-bolt nuts.
Tighten the nuts.
(9) Install the drain plug and tighten to 34 N´m
(25 ft. lbs.) torque.
(10) Lower the vehicle.
(11) Remove engine-lifting fixture.
(12) On Manual Transmission vehicles, install the
shift lever.
(13) Connect the fuel supply line (Refer to 14 -
FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL DELIVERY/QUICK CON-
NECT FITTING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(14) Connect the power steering hoses, if equipped.
(15) Connect the heater hoses.
(16) Install the distributor cap and wiring.
(17) Install the intake manifold (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/MANIFOLDS/INTAKE MANIFOLD -
INSTALLATION).(18) Using a new gasket, install throttle body
(Refer to 14 - FUEL SYSTEM/FUEL INJECTION/
THROTTLE BODY - INSTALLATION).
(19) Connect the throttle linkage.
(20) Install the air cleaner box.
(21) Install the generator and wire connections
(Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/STARTING/STARTER
MOTOR - INSTALLATION).
(22) Install radiator (Refer to 7 - COOLING/EN-
GINE/RADIATOR - INSTALLATION).
(23) Install the fan and fan shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLA-
TION).
(24) Install the washer bottle.
(25) If equipped, install the condenser (Refer to 24
- HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/
A/C CONDENSER - INSTALLATION).
(26) Install the A/C compressor with the lines
attached.
(27) Install accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
INSTALLATION).
(28) Evacuate and charge the air conditioning sys-
tem, if equipped (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR
CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - STANDARD PRO-
CEDURE).
(29) Install the transmission oil cooler (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/TRANSMISSION/TRANS COOLER -
INSTALLATION).
(30) Install the upper crossmember and top core
support.
(31) Refill cooling system (Refer to 7 - COOLING -
STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(32) Connect the negative cable to the battery.
(33) Start engine and check for leaks.
BR/BEENGINE 3.9L 9 - 13
ENGINE 3.9L (Continued)