GEELY CK 2008 Workshop Manual

3742. Repair Of Outer Plate
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1Repair of crackle
The crackle on the metal outer plate can be repaired by CO2 gas Protecting welding. When welded, the
two sides of the metal plate should be aligned, and then spot-weld on the outside of the outer plate. If the
crackle length is less than 50mm, it should be welded from the crackle end, and along the run of the
crackle and the outside edge. If the crackle length is very long, it should be spot-welded in some intervals,
and then weld the crackle in several sections. So, it can prevent the crackle metal from being over-burnt
and warping because of an extremely high temperature.
If the crackle appears on the place that is greatly loaded and it is very convenient to weld, 2-step welding
can be adopted, that is, After spot-welding on the outside, then you can first weld on the inside of the
crackle. After that, a welding seam is then applied on the outside in the same run.
After the welding finishes, put a backing block under the crackle, and then use a hammer to gently knock
on the outside of the crackle to remove the remaining welding stress. Finally, trim the appearance of the
crackle to make it smooth and convenient to apply paint.
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2Repair of partial damage of the outer plate
When the outer plate has partial rust or serious damage and even cannot be repaired, it can be mended by
cutting off the damage or pasting a new one on it.
How to cut off the damage:
a. Confirm the area that needs cutting;
b. Cut a paper example;
c. Cut the metal plate according to the paper example;
d. Paste the metal piece cut onto the surface of the area that needs cutting off;
e. Use a draw needle tip to make an outline along the sides of the metal piece. And cut off the
damaged or rusted area along the outline;
f. Use a wooden hammer or a backing block to smooth the cut, and use a file to file the burr, to assure
that the cut is parallel with both sides of the substitute piece and the clearance should be no more
than 1mm;
g. Substitute the damaged area with the piece. Use pliers to hold it and spot-weld the joint in an
interval of 50mm for fixation;
h. Weld in sections. First weld the central part and then the left and right in turn, to avoid deformation;
i. Use a hammer or block to knock on the seam to remove the remaining stress. And use a file or
hand grindstone to grind the seam to make it smooth to the plates around. Finally, paint the substitute
piece.
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3Repair of uneven damage of the outer plate caused by crash
When the outer plate is crashed, a concave pit appears on it. The repair should be taken from the point C
(Figure 5-17). Put the block on the top of the protrusion area, use a hammer to knock it and correspondingly
change the position of the block. After the protrusion area is knocked down to the level, most of concave
in B area will spring back. It is already very much like the former outline of the plate. As to some little
remaining depressions, use a block with a same radian with the plate and use a hand to press the block
upwards. Knock the top point of the concave with a hammer (Figure 5-19).

375At the beginning of knocking it, make your force slightly greater. In the finishing period of repair, make
your force softer and try your best to reduce the beating times. Make sure not to knock one point for too
many times to avoid extending on partial area of the metal plate, which may make the repair complex.
As to the concave with a comparatively big radian, a backing plate whose area should be comparatively
big can be put under the center of the concave. Directly push up the depressed plate by a propping-up
tool. Sometimes, the concave place can be heated to dark red to reduce the pushing force. A slight rise is
recommended when pushing up. (Figure 5-20)
Heat-shrinkable method:
After the concave area is pushed up, if the plate is greatly stretched and its area is too big to repair, the
heat-shrinkable method can be adopted.
Use oxygen-acetylene flame to heat to cherry red. The area of heating depends to its extension degree.
The heating area should be bigger (Diameter approx. 20-30mm), when it is seriously extended or the area
is big. If it is slightly extended or the area is small, the heating area should be smaller (Diameter approx.
10-15mm). Quickly knock the heated points with a wooden hammer while they are hot. A backing block
is recommended to push it up. After it cools down, use an iron hammer to gently knock for smoothness.
The shrinkage order is from the highest point gradually to the center and then to the edge. Heat and then
flatten the extended area repeatedly, till the plate is completely flat. If the protrusion is very high, first
compress the whole protrusion to its half. After it cools down, heat the former heating point to remove the
rest half of the protrusion.
When the method is applied, it must be specially noted that you'd better not use the heat-shrinkage
method to avoid side effects. Especially for thin plates, prevent them from being melted through hole..
When the outer plate is lightly crashed and the depressed area belongs to elastic deformation, you may
press its inside to recover to its former shape.
Some depressed area can be repair by prying which is a repair method without disassembling parts. YouIllustration 5-18 Panel Flattening (A)
A Concave Point B Protrusion Point C Knocking PointIllustration 5-19 Panel Flattening (B)
1 Hammer 2 Panel Parts 3 Backing BlockFigure 5-20 Heat and flatten the protrusion
1 heating point

376can make a reshaping repair according to lever principle by making use of different clearances. To repair
by prying without disassembling parts can maintain the original assembling quality and improve the working
efficiency.
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4Repair of outer plate breakup welding
Outer plate being breakup welding is caused by bad welding between welding wire and metal plates. For
the general breakup welding of the welding seam, a new welding can be applied after removing the
welding wire accumulated at the joint. For the breakup welding of spot-welding, you can use a one-side
spot welder to spot-weld nearby the breakup welding points. The new points are 10-15mm away from
the original points. Before spot-welding, you should clean up the greasy dirt and rusty spot at the welding
points and also make sure that the plates are well aligned.
For the breakup welding that occurs at the flanging edges, an intermittent gas welding can be applied at
the edge of the plate to make the plate edge melted after the 2 plates are well aligned. The every seam
length of the intermittent weld is about 30mm, and the interval of welding seam can refer to the former
welding interval.
Another repair method for outer plate breakup welding is plug welding. It is better to apply CO2 gas
protecting welding. Drill a hole of diameter 6mm on the outer plate, and then press and well paste the
2 plates. Fill the hole with welding wire by CO2 gas protecting welding. When welding, the welding wire
moves in circular way directing to the inner plate to have the inner and outer plates merged together.
After welding, polish and trim the surface, and then paint.

377Section 4 Features and Composition of Automobile BodyI. Features of BodyBecause the body is integral body construction, the main body is concurrently used as frame to support all
load. The 3-compartment-5-door layout adopted gets the space availability the biggest and favorable to
arrange the space of drivers and passengers. (Figure 5-21)
Figure 5-12 Outside Dimensions

3781. Material Of punching Parts
In order to improve the rigidity of the body, high-tensile steel plate is adopted in many key parts of the
body to reinforce the body on the place that force concentrates (Figure 5-22).
(Figure 5-22) High-Tensile Steel Plates
1. Engine Hood Outer Plate 2. LH/RH Fender 3. LH/RH Central Pillar Inner Plate
4. Trunk Lid Outer Plate5. LH/RH Door Outer Plate21354

379In order to avoid corroding and effectively extend the service life of the punching parts, galvanized steel
sheet with different specifications is widely adopted on the body (Figure 5-23).
(Figure 5-23) Galvanized Steel Plates
1. LH/RH Mudguard Reinforcement 2 Cowl Upper Baffle 3 Radiator Support
4 LH/RH Front Mudguard 5 LH/RH Front Side Member 6 Front Low Cross Member
7 Rear Floor 2nd Cross Member 8 LH/RH Rear Floor Side Rails 9 LH/RH Floor Side Member Inner
Plate 10 Cowl Lower Cross Member 11. Cowl Panel
2. Vibration Reduction And Sound Insulation
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1Take measures on the structure of the body
a. Reasonably layout reinforcing ribs to improve the rigidity of parts and to reduce noise by restraining
vibration.
b. Fill the floor joint seam with sealant to strengthen the floor sealing and weaken the noise.
c. Increasing the thickness of the cowl is very effective to insulate sound. The cowl is adopted
sandwich structure, (Figure 5-24) that is, the cowl is welded by two steel plates (Cowl and heat
insulating board), and in the interlayer of the 2 plates lies a heat insulating pad (the material of it is
asphalt piece).87 5
4 4 21
9 10 63
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380 5-24 1. 2. 3.. 4. Figure 5-24 COWL
1. Cowl 2. Heat Insulating Protecting Board 3. Front Cross Member 4. Heat Insulating Pad

3812 Adopt sound insulating material to reduce the noise in the compartment.
For the heat, vibration and sound insulation of the body, they are a systematic engineering. Besides you
take measures on effectively improving the rigidity of the body and sealing technique, the following
measures can be taken in the body design and manufacturing:
a. Sound insulating material: paste a layer of asphalt board on the floor and FR/RR fenders. Add
insulation pads on the cowl and the floor.
b. Sound absorbing material: adopt formed carpet which is composed of front floor carpet and rear
floor carpet.
The FR/RR floor carpets are integrated with the floor and sound absorbing pad. It is required that the
floor and the pad will not peeled when torn by outside force.
3. Sealing
An elaborate concern is taken from design and manufacturing on the body sealing. Sealing is very important
for the operation performance of dust prevention, water proofing, corrosion prevention, heat protection, heat
preservation, noise reduction, etc. Especially, the floor and cowl are located in the harshest outside environment.
The mud splashing from road, dust and sand, wheel noise, engine noise and hot air will get in the interior
environment by every opening.
After the body assemble welding completes, apply a line of sealant on all joints of the body to avoid water and
vapor permeating into the metal joint and also to ensure the quality for the following painting.(Figure 5-25).
Besides, a layer of stone-strike proofing paint is applied on the bottom of the body. The paint has good sealing
effect. For the sealing of mounting parts on the body, traditional methods are generally adopted, such as
rubber sealing ring, cover, rubber strip, special-shaped sealing strip, etc. But in order to make more minute
and rigorous considerations in design and manufacturing of structural parts and the stability of the dimension
relationship of contacting sealing. For windshield and rear back door glass, a natural-curing high-tensile
sealant is adopted in sealing. It represents the advanced modern techniques in reliability and mounting technology.5-25 1. 2. 3. Figure 5-39 Area Where Chloride Ethylene Plastisol Is Applied
1. Front Mud Guard 2. Rear Side Wall 3. Rear Wheel HouseFront

3824. Surface Treatment Of Body
The consideration of the body surface treatment is very strict, careful and considerate. Although it is not
high-grade car, it is nearly the same with the high-grade car on the surface treatment.
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1 Application of Galvanized Steel Plate
In order to prevent the steel plates from rusting, all outside punching parts are made by galvanized steel
plate.
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2Phosphatization
Phosphatization is also called pre-treatment of painting. After degreasing cleaning to the body, a layer of
zinc phosphate is applied on the body. The layer thickness is controlled less than 3µm, which can take
effect as the first protecting layer and also is favorable to adhesion of the coating used in the next step.
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3Cathode Electrophoresis
Electrophoretic painting shows its high efficiency and quality, safety, economy, etc. in actual application.
Four kinds of electrochemical phenomena (dielectric, electrophoresis, Electrodeposition, electroosmosis)
appear in the course. The feature and the advantage of cathode electrophoresis is multiply better than
anode electrophoresis. None is better than it and the technique management is also extremely strict.
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4Intermediate Coating
The intermediate coating is one located between the base coating (primer) and the surface coating. The
function is mainly to improve the flatness of the workpiece surface and the base coating and to create a
good base for top paint. The brilliance and fullness of the painting layer and the decorating effect of the
coating will be greatly improved.
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5Final Coating
The final coating on a vehicle is the last coating in multilayer coatings. It will directly influence the
decorating effect, weather resistance and the appearance of the vehicle. Choosing final coating is very
strict. Match, economy and operational easiness should be considered. The performance of all items can
reach the national and company standard. The appearance of the paint film is flat, smooth, plump, etc.
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6Protecting coating for storage
When left in an open air for a long term (more than 3 months) or transferred by sea, a layer of water
soluble protecting wax should be applied on the surface of the body .Ultraviolet absorbing material is
added in the protecting coating. Clean it with detergent or fresh water before selling to make the brightness
of the painting reappear.

383Section 5 Painting Technique after Body RepairPartial painting is needed when the vehicle crashes, parts rust, surface bubbles and color changes. The
painting techniques after repair are as follows:I. Base Treatment (Pre-Treatment)1. Peel the layer of painting and the coating on the panel.
2. Remove the edges and corners and polish the steel surface where painting peeled and the paint film at the
edges.
3. Cleaning and degrease. Clear up the dust and dirt and remove the oil, etc with degreaser.II. Base Coating Procedure1. Apply primer. Apple air drying type paint on the metal surface.
2. Air dry or heat dry (infrared drier) the primer.
3. Apply putty. Apply air drying type oil-base putty and Polyester-base putty on the panel surface that needs
repairing.
4. Air dry or heat dry the putty.
5.Manually polish the putty to make it smooth.
6. Manually polish with water to clear up tracks caused by sand paper.
7. Clear up the dust and the greasy dirt, and dry the putty polishing liquid.
8. Clean the greasy dirt on the polishing surface.
9. Use shield cover or paper to keep out the area that need not repairing.III.Intermediate Coating Painting1. Paint the second primer.
2. Air dry or heat dry.
3. Apply putty, and let it dry. Then look for sandhole or sand paper tracks.
4. Manually polish with water.
5. Clean it and let it dry by air. (The times of applying putty and polishing depends on the smoothness of the
surface)IV. Preparation For Applying Final Paint1. Shielding. Shield the area that needs not painting with paper.
2. Clear up the dust and degrease. Clear up the dust and oil on the painting surface.
3. Toning. Mix paints to get the color the same with the final paint.
4. Mixing paints.