MITSUBISHI DIAMANTE 1900 Owner's Manual

l-22 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
tears. If the boot is damaged, it should be replaced
trode is to the block’s cooling passages) the cooler it
your driving is long distance, high speed travel, use a
immediately. Please refer to Section 7 for procedures.
will operate. A plug that absorbs little heat and re-
colder plug; if most of your driving is stop and go,
mains too cool will quickly accumulate deposits of
use a hotter plug. Original equipment plugs are gen-
oil and carbon since it is not hot enough to burn
erally a good compromise between the 2 styles and
them off. This leads to plug fouling and consequently
most people never have the need to change their
to misfiring. A plug that absorbs too much heat will
plugs from the factory-recommended heat range.
ti See Figure 88 have no deposits but, due to the excessive heat, the
,electrodes will burn away quickly and might possibly
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
A typical spark plug consists of a metal shell sur- lead to preignition or other ignition problems. Preig-
rounding a ceramic insulator. A metal electrode ex- nition takes place when plug tips get so hot that they
ti See Figures 90 thru 95
tends downward through the center of the insulator glow sufficiently to ignite the air/fuel mixture before
and protrudes a small distance. Located at the end of the actual spark occurs. This early ignition will usu- A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement
the plug and attached to the side of the outer metal ally cause a pinging during low speeds and heavy after about 20,000-30,000 miles (32,000-48,000
shell is the side electrode. The side electrode bends loads. km), depending on your style of driving. In normal
in at a 90” angle so that its tip is just past and paral- The general rule of thumb for choosing the correct operation plug gap increases about 0.001 in.
lel to the tio of the center electrode. The distance be- heat range when picking a spark plug is: if most of (0.025mrn) for every 2,500 miles
(4,000 km). As the
tween these two electrodes (measured in thousandths
of an inch or hundredths of a millimeter) is called the
spark piug gap.
The spark plug does not produce a spark, but in-
steed provides a gap across which the current can
arc. The coil produces anywhere from 20,000 to
50,000 volts (depending on the type and application)
which travels through the wires to the spark plugs.
The current passes along the center electrode and
jumps the gap to the side electrode, and in doing so,
ignites the air/fuel mixture in the combustion charn-
ber.
SPARKPLUG HEATRANGE
ti See Figure 89
Spark plug heat range is the ability of the plug to
dissipate heat. The longer the insulator (or the farther
INSULATOR CRACKS
OFTEN OCCUR HERE
SIDE ELECTRODE ENTER ELECTRODE:
(SEND TO ADJUST GAP) FILE FLAT WHEN
ADJUSTING GAP;
DO NOT BEND
Fig. 88 Cross-section of a spark plug
it extends into the engine), the hotter the plug will
operate; the shorter the insulator (the closer the elec- Fig. 90 Carefully twist the boot end of the
I
spark plug wire and withdraw the spark plug
wire boot from the cylinder head
Fig. 92 A locking extension such as this is
extremely helpful when removing spark
plugs that are centrally located in the cyhn-
Fig. 94 . . .
then carefully withdraw the
spark plug from the engine Fig. 91 A special spark plug socket with a
rubber insert is required to remove the
spark plugs. Typically the spark plugs
re-
quire a Ya spark plug socket
Fig, 93 Using the appropriate sized spark
plug socket, necessary extensions and drive
tools, loosen the spark plug . . .
93151ptxl Fig. 95 After removing the plug from the en-
gine, inspect it using the spark plug condi-
tion chart in this section to determine the
running condition of your engine

t
GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE l-23
gap increases, the plug’s voltage requirement also in-
creases. It requires a greater voltage to jump the the spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and re-
move the spark plug from the bore.
wider gap and about &o to three times as much volt-
age to fire the plug at high speeds than at idle. The
improved air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injec-
tion combined with the higher voltage output of mod- Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the place. The click may be felt or heard, then gently pull
ern ignition systems will often allow an engine to run socket. Use of a flexible extension may allow back on the boot to assure proper contact.
.___. . _
significantly longer on a set of standard spark plugs, a shear force to be agptf’ ea to me plug.
A 12. On the 3.OL fSOHC and DOHC) and 3.5L en-
LL_ _I___ -u I_ IL-
but keep in mind that efficiency will drop as the gap shear force could break tne pug on III me
tion 3 for the installation procedure.
widens (along with fuel economy and power). cylinder head, leading to costly and frustrat-
13. If equipped, install the center cover.
When you’re removing spark plugs, work on one ing repairs.
at a time. Don’t start by removing the plug wires all at
once, because, unless you number them, they may To install:
INSPECTION & GAPPING
11. Apply a small amount of silicone dielectric
compound to the end of the spark plug lead or inside
the spark plug boot to prevent sticking, then install
the boot to the spark plug and push until it clicks into
gines, install the upper intake manifold. Refer to Sec-
,,Y” ..1111 uy”’ 1 the neaative bat&v cable and if become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin
and number the wrrpc with +sne
1. Disconnect. ~~.~
--..-., -..-.-, -..-
thevehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to
thoroughly cool.
2. If equipped, remove the center cover.
3. On the 3.OL (SOHC and DOHC) and 3.5L en-
gines, the upper intake manifold must be removed to
access the rear spark plugs. Refer to Section 3 for the
removal procedure.
4. Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to
loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from
the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the
wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot
may become separated.
5. Using compressed air, blow any water or de-
bris from the spark plug well to assure that no harm-
ful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion
chamber when the spark plug is removed. If com-
pressed air is not available, use a raa or a brush to must be replaced.
Check the plugs for deposits and wear, If they are 7. Inspect the spark plug boot for tears or dam-
age. If.a damaged boot is found, the spark plug wire
8. Using a wire feelergauge, check and adjust
the spark plug gap. When using a gauge, the proper
size should pass between the electrodes with a slight
drag. The next larger size should not be able to pass
while the next smaller size should pass freely.
9. Carefully thread the plug into the bore by
hand. If resistance is felt before the plug is almost
completely threaded, back the plug out and begin
threading again. In small, hard to reach areas, an old
spark plug wire and boot could be used as a thread-
ing tool. The boot will hold the plug while you twist
the end of the wire and the wire is supple enough to
twist before it would allow the plug to crossthread.
Do not use the spark plug sock?
l -- K-rrA tha nhme Alwmm rarntdlv thw GL I” IlllGa”
the possibility of crossthreading and damag- lad the plug
. ..Y f..“YY. rn”Y,‘““mY*“.‘, .I**” by hand or using an old plug wire to prevent
ing the cylinder head bore.
10. Carefully tighten the spark plug. If the plug
you are installing is equipped with a crush washer,
seat the plug, then tighten about I/, turn to crush the
washer. If you are installing a tapered seat plug,
tighten the plug to specifications provided by the ve-
hicle or plug manufacturer. b See Figures 98, 97, 98, 99, and 100
not going to be replaced, clean the plugs thoroughly.
Remember that any kind of deposit will decrease the
efficiency of the plug. Plugs can be cleaned on a
spark plug cleaning machine, which can sometimes
be found in service stations, or you can do an accept-
able job of cleaning with a stiff brush. If the plugs are’
cleaned, the electrodes must be filed flat. Use an ig-
nition points file, not an emery board or the like,
which will leave deposits. The electrodes must be
filed perfectly flat with sharp edges; rounded edges
reduce the spark plug voltage by as much as 50%.
Check spark plug gap before installation. The
ground electrode (the L-shaped one connected to the
body of the plug) must be parallel to the center elec-
trode and the specified size wire gauge (please refer
to the Tune-Up Specifications chart for details) must
pass between the electrodes with a slight drag:
*,NEVER adjust the gap on a used platinum
. clean the area.
*Remove the spark plugs when the engine
is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the
threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult,
apply a few drops of penetrating oil or sili-
cone spray to the area around the base of the
plug, and allow it a few minutes to work.
6. Using a spark plug socket that is equipped
with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug, turn type spark plug.
Always check the gap on new plugs as they are
not always set correctly at the factory. Do not use a
flat feeler gauge when measuring the gap on a used
plug, because the reading may be inaccurate. A
round-wire type gapping tool is the best way to check
the gap. The correct gauge should pass through the
electrode gap with a slight drag. If you’re in doubt, try
one size smaller and one laraer. The smaller aauqe

l-24 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
b%slZl2 Fig. 97 A variety of tools and gauges are
needed for spark plug service tm2903 Fig. 98 Checking the spark plug @au with a tccs2904 feeler gauge. - Fig. 99 Adjusting the spark plug gap
ig. 100 If the standard plug Is in good con-
ftlon, the electrode may be filed flat- the two ends. Take the length and multiply it by 6,000
to achieve the maximum resistance allowable in each
wire, resistance should not exceed this value. If resis-
tance does exceed this value, replace the wire.
*Whenever the high tension wires are re- ’
moved from the plugs, coil, or distributor,
silicone grease must be applied to the boot
before reconnection. Coat the entire Interior
surface with a suitable silicone grease.
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
# See Figures 90,103 and 104
1. Remove the air cleaner inlet tube.
2. If eouiooed, remove the center cover from the
WARNING: do not file platinum plugs
valve covei.
3. Label each spark plug wire and make a note of
should go through easily, while the larger one its routing.
I’ shouldn’t go through at all. Wire gapping tools usu-
ally have a bending tool attached. Use that to adjust
the side electrode until the proper distance is ob-
tained. Absolutely never attempt to bend the center
electrode. Also, be careful not to bend the side elec- *Don’t rely on wiring diagrams or sketches
for spark plug wire routing. Improper
arrangement of spark plug wires will induce
voltage between wires, causing misfiring
and surging. Be careful to arrange spark plug
wires properly.
4. Starting with the longest wire, disconnect the
spark plug wire from the spark plug and then from
the coil pack or distributor cap.
To install:
5. If replacing the spark plug wires, match the olc
wire with an appropriately sized wire in the new set.
6. Lubricate the boots and terminals with dielec-
tric grease and install the wire on the coil pack. Make
sure the wire snaps into place.
a 7. Route the wire in the exact path as the original
nd connect the wire to the spark plug.
8. Repeat the process for each remaining wire,
iorking from the longest wire to the shortest.
9. Install the air cleaner inlet tube.
trode too far or too often as it may weaken and break
off within the engine, requiring removal of the cylin-
der head to retrieve it.
TESTING
# See Figures 191 and 102
At every tune-up/inspection, visually check the
spark plug cables for burns cuts, or breaks in the in-
sulation. Check the boots and the nipples on the dis-
tributor cap and/or coil. Replace any damaged wiring.
Every 50,000 miles (80,000 km) or 60 months, the
resistance of the wires should be checked with an
ohmmeter. Wires with excessive resistance will cause
misfiring, and may make the engine difficult to start in
damp weather.
To check resistance, an ohmmeter should be used ’
on each wire to test resistance between the end con-
nectors. Remove and install/replace the wires in or- ’
der, one-by-one.
Resistance on these wires should be 4,000-6,000
ohms per foot. To properly measure this, remove the
wires from the plugs and the coil pack. Do not pierce
any ignition wire for any reason. Measure only from Fig. 103 Remove the spark plug wires from
tcG1009 Fig. 102 Checking individual plug wire re-
sistance with a digital ohmmeter
Fig. 104 Remove the plug wires from the
wire dividers

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE 1-25
osen the distributor cap retain-
Fig. 106. . . then remove the cap from the
distributor
Fig. 107 Grasp the rotor and pull it straight
off of the distributor shaft
REMOVAL &INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
*Depending on the reason for removing the
distributor cap, it may make more sense to Fig. 108 The rotor must be aligned correctly
to the distributor shaft before installation
other physical damage. Make sure the distributor
cap’s center button is free of damage. Check the cap
terminals for dirt or corrosion. Always check the rotor
blade and spring closely for damage. Replace any
comoonents where damaae is found.
smmE
ALGNME
LOCATOR
b See Figures 105,106,107, and 108 GENERAL INFORMATION
b See Figures 111 and 112
Ignition timing is the measurement, in degrees of
crankshaft rotation, of the point at which the spark
plugs fire in each of the cylinders. It is measured in
degrees before or after Top Dead Center (TDC) of the
compression stroke.
Ideally, the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder will be
ignited by the spark plug just as the piston passes
I 1 COMBUSTION
ENDS 23’ ATDC
SPEED INCREASES
9ir&1$?6
Fig. 111 Advancing the ignition timing
’
CCURS
COMBUSTION
DC
ENDS 23 ATDC
3. Remove the distributor cap retaining screws or
clips and remove the cap from the distributor.
4. Note its installed position, then remove the ro-
tor from the distributor shaft. leave the spark plug wires attached. This is
handy if you are testing spark plug wires, or
if removal is necessary to access other com-
ponents, and wire length allows you to repo-
sition the cap out of the way.
2. Label and disconnect the spark plug wires
from the distributor cao.
5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.
INSPECTION
u See Figures 109 and 110
9mg27
After removing the distributor cap and rotor, clean
the components (both inside and outside of the cap)
using soap and water. If compressed air is available,
carefully dry the components (wearing safety gog-
gles) or allow the parts to air dry. You can dry them
with a clean, soft cloth, but don’t leave any lint or
moisture behind.
Once the cap and rotor have been thoroughly Inspection points for the dis Fig. 112 Retarding the tgnttion timing
cleaned, check for cracks, carbon tracks, burns or

.
1-26 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
TDC of the compression stroke. If this happens, the
piston WIII be at the beginning of the power stroke
just as the compressed and ignited air/fuel mixture
forces the piston down and turns the crankshaft. Be-
cause it takes a fraction of a second for the spark
plug to ignite the mixture in the cylinder, the spark
plug must fire a little before the piston reaches TDC.
Otherwise, the mixture will not be completely ignited
as the piston passes TDC and the full power of the
explosion will not be used by the engine.
The timing measurement is given in degrees of
crankshaft rotation before the piston reaches TDC
(BTDC). If the setting for the ignition timing is 10”
BTDC, each spark plug must fire 10 degrees before
each piston reaches TDC. This only holds true, how-
ever, when the engine is at idle speed. The combus-
tion process must be complete by 23”ATDC to main-
tain proper engine performance, fuel mileage, and
low emissions.
As the engine speed increases, the pistons go
faster. The spark plugs have to ignite the fuel even
sooner if it IS to be completely ignited when the pis-
ton reaches TDC. If the ignition is set too far ad-
vanced (BTDC), the ignition and expansion of the fuel
in the cylinder wtll occur too soon and tend to force
the piston down while it is still traveling up. Thus
causes pre ignition or “knockmg and pinging”. If the
ignition spark is set too far retarded, or after TDC
(ATDC), the piston will have already started on its
way down when the fuel is ignited. The piston will be
forced down for only a portion of its travel, resulting
in poor engine performance and lack of power.
Timing marks or scales can be found on the rim of
the crankshaft pulley and the timing cover. The marks
on the pulley correspond to the posrtion of the piston
in the No. 1 cylinder. A stroboscopic (dynamic) tim-
ing light is hooked onto the No. 1 cylinder spark plug
wrre. Every time the spark plug fires, the timing light
flashes. By aiming the light at the timing marks while
the engine is running, the exact position of the piston
within the cylinder can be easily read (the flash of
light makes the mark on the pulley appear to be
standing still). Proper timing is indicated when the
mark and scale are in specified alignment.
When checking timing with the engine run-
ning, take care not to get the timing light
wires tangled in the tan blades and/or drive
belts.
INSPECTION &ADJUSTMENT
1990-96 Models
e See Figures 113 thru 119
1. Set the parking brake, start and run the engine
until normal operating temperature is obtained. Keep
all lights and accessories OFF and the front wheels
straight-ahead. Place the transaxle in
P for automatic
transaxle or Neutral for manual transaxle.
2. If not at specification, set the idle speed to the
correct level.
3. Turn the engine
OFF. Remove the water-
proof cover from the igmtion timing adjusting con-
nector, and connect a jumper wire from this terminal
Fig. 113 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nector-1990-92 Mirage with 1.5L engine
93151QM Fig. 115 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nectar-Galant with 2.OL engines
93151QO1 Fig. 117 Ignition timing adjustment con.
nectar-1994-96 Galant
to a good ground. Refer to the corresponding illustra-
tions for the correct location of the timing adjustment
connector.
4. Connect a conventional power timing light to
the No. 1 cylinder spark plug wire. Start the engine
and run at idle.
5. Aim the timing light at the timing scale lo-
cated near the crankshaft pulley.
6. Loosen the distributor or crank angle sensor
hold-down nut just enough so the housing can be ro-
tated.
7. Turn the housing in the proper direction until
the specified timing is reached. Tighten the hold-
down nut and recheck the timing. Turn the engine
OFF. 8. Remove the jumper wire from the ignition
timing adjusting terminal and install the water-proof
cover.
9. Start the engine and check the actual timing
(the timing without the terminal grounded). This
reading should be approximately 5 degrees more
than the basic timing. Actual timing may increase ac-
cording to altitude. Also, actual timing may fluctuate
because of slight variation accomplished by the ECU.
Fig. 114 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nectar-Miracle with 1.6L enaine
CHECK CONNECTOR 93151QO! Fig. 116 Ignition timing adjustment con.
nectar-1992-96 Oiamante
93151gOB Fig. 116 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nector-1993-96 Mirage with 1.5L engine
Fig. 119 Ignition timing adjustment con-
nector-1993-96 Mirage with 1.6L engine
As long as the basic timing is correct, the engine is
timed correctly.
10. Turn the engine
OFF. 11. Disconnect the timing apparatus and
tachometer.
1997-00 Models
The ignition timing is controlled by the Engine
Control Module (ECM) and is not adjustable. How-
ever it can be inspected using a scan tool.

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE I-27
ADJUSTMENT
u See Figures 120 and 121
The only engines that require periodic adjustment
of the valves are the 1.5L engine in the 1990-95 Mi-
rage and the 1.8L in the 1993-95 Mirage.
Incorrect valve clearance will cause noisy
and/or unsteady engine operation, reduced
engine output, and possible engine damage.
Check the valve clearances and adjust as re-
quired while the engine is hot.
1. Warm the engine to operating temperature.
Turn the engine OFF. Disconnect the negative battery
cable.
2. Remove all spark plugs so engine can be eas-
ily turned by hand
3. Remove the valve cover.
4. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until the notch
on the pulley is aligned with the
T mark on the timing
belt lower cover. This brings both No. 1 and 4 cylin-
der pistons to Top Dead Center (TDC).
5. Wiggle the rocker arms on No. 1 and 4 cylin-
ders up and down to determine which cylinder is at
TDC on the compression stroke. Both rocker arms
should move if the piston in that cylinder is at TDC
on the compression stroke.
6. Measure the valve clearance with a feeler
gauge. When the No. 1 piston is at TDC on the com-
pression stroke, check No. 1 intake and
exhaust; No.
2 intake and exhaust. Then turn the crankshaft clock-
wise 1 turn to bring No. 4 to TDC on its compression
stroke. With No. 4 on TDC, compression stroke,
check No. 2 exhaust and intake; and No. 4 intake and
exhaust. Clearance is as follows:
1990-92 1.5L engine:
No.1 No.2
No.3 No.4
when engine is on TDC of cylinder 1 and (B) when engine is on TDC of cylinder 4
No.1 No.2
No.3 No.4
AA AA BB BB
93151g10 Fig. 121 Adjusting the valve clearance
l Exhaust valve: 0.0098 in. (0.25mm) screw. When at specification, tighten the locknut. Be l Intake valve: 0.0059 in. (0.15mm)
1993-95 1.5L engine: sure to hold the screw securely in place when tight-
l Exhaust valve: 0.0098 in. (0.25mm) ening the locknut to prevent it from turning when
* Intake valve: 0.008 in. (0.20mm) tightening the locknut. Tightening torque of the lock-
nut is as follows:
1993-95 1.8L engine:
l Exhaust valve: 0.012 in. (0.30mm) l 1.5L engine: 9-11 ft. Ibs. (12-15 Nm)
l Intake valve: 0.008 in. (0.20mm) l 1.8L engine: 7 ft. Ibs. (9 Nm)
8. Recheck the clearance and readjust.
7. If the valve clearance is out of specification,
9. After adjusting the valves, install the valve
loosen the rocker arm locknut and adjust the clear-
ante using a feeler gauge while turning the adjusting cover and spark plugs, and connect the negative bat-
tery cable.
Engine
ENGINE TUNE-UP SPECIFICATIONS Ignition
Spark Plugs liming
Fuel Idle
Speed Valve
Displacement
Engine
Gap (as.) Pump (rpm)
Clearance

l-28 GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
may result in skin or eye irritation or frostbite. Al- formed to help maintain the efficiency of the vehicle’s
though low in toxicity (due to chemical stability), in- A/C system. For preventive maintenance, perform the
The idle speed is factory set and usually no ad- halation of concentrated refrigerant fumes is danger- following:
justments are ever necessary. If an adjustment be- ous and can result in death; cases of fatal cardiac
l The easiest and most important preventive
comes necessary, first check that the spark plugs, in- arrhythmia have been reported in people accidentally maintenance for your A/C system is to be sure that it
jectors, idle air control servo and compression subjected to high levels of refrigerant. Some early is used on a regular basis. Running the system for
pressure are all normal. symptoms include loss of concentration and drowsi- five minutes each month (no matter what the season)
Data from various sensors and switches are used ness. + will help ensure that the seals and all internal compo-
by the ECU to determine the proper fuel/air mixture
for optimal engine performance. cGeneraiiy, the limit for exposure is lower nents remain lubricated.
for R-134a than it is for R-12. Exceptional *Some newer vehicles automatically oper-
care must be practiced when handling R- ate the A/C system compressor whenever the
134a. windshield defroster is activated. When run-
Also, refrigerants can decompose at high tempera- ning, the compressor lubricates the A/C sys
tures (near gas heaters or open flame), which may re- tern components; therefore, the A/C system
SYSTEM SERVICE& REPAIR suit in hydrofluoric acid, hydrochloric acid and phos- would not need to be operated each month.
gene (a fatal nerve gas). * In order to prevent heater core freeze-up during
R-12 refrigerant can damage the environment be- A/C operation, it is necessary to maintain proper an-
cause it is a Chlorofluorocarbon (CFC), which has tifreeze protection. Use a hand-held coolant tester
been proven to add to ozone layer depletion, leading (hydrometer) to periodically check the condition of
to increasing levels of UV radiation. UV radiation has the antifreeze in your engine’s cooling system.
been linked with an increase in skin cancer, suppres-
sion of the human immune system, an increase in *Antifreeze should not be used longer than
cataracts, damage to crops, damage to aquatic organ- the manufacturer specifies.
isms, an increase in ground-level ozone, and in- . For efficient operation of an air conditioned ve-
creased global warming. hicle’s cooling system, the radiator cap should have a
R-134a refrigerant is a greenhouse gas which, if holding pressure which meets manufacturers specifi-
allowed to vent into the atmosphere, will contribute to cations. A cap which fails to hold these pressures
global warming (the Greenhouse Effect). should be replaced.
It is usually more economically feasible to have a
l Any obstruction of or damage to the condenser
certified MVAC automotive technician perform A/C configuration will restrict air flow which is essential
system service on your vehicle. Some possible rea- to its efficient operation. It is, therefore, a good rule
sons for this are as follows: to keep this unit clean and in proper physical shape.
l While it is illegal to service an A/C system
without the proper equipment, the home mechanic ti See Figure 122
*it is recommended that the A/C svstem be
serviced by an EPA Section 609 cehified au-
tomotivetechnicfan utilizing a refrigerant re-
covery/recycling machfne.
The do-it-yourselfer should not service his/her
own vehicle’s A/C system for many reasons, includ-
ing legal concerns, personal injury, environmental
damage and cost. The following are some of the rea-
sons why you may decide not to service your own ve-
hicle’s A/C system.
According to the U.S. Clean Air Act, it is a federal
crime to service or repair (involving the refrigerant) a
Motor Vehicle Air Conditioning (MVAC) system for
money without being EPA certified. It is also illegal to
vent R-12 and R-134a refrigerants into the atmos-
phere. Selling or distributing A/C system refrigerant
(in a container which contains less than 20 pounds oi
refrigerant) to any person who is not EPA 609 certi-
fied is also not allowed by law.
State and/or local laws may be more strict than the
federal regulations, so be sure to check with your
state and/or local authorities for further information.
For further federal information on the legality of ser-
vicing your AK system, call the EPA Stratospheric
Ozone Hotline.
*Federal law dictates that a fine of up to
$25,000 may be levied on people convicted
of venting refrigerant into the atmosphere.
Additionally, the EPA may pay up to $10,000
for information or services leading to a crimf
nai conviction of the violation of these laws.
When servicing an A/C system you run the risk of
handling or coming in contact with refrigerant, which
Fig. 122 A label with information concern-
ing the A/C system is typically located in the
engine compartment
f would haveto purchase an expensive refrigerant re-
covery/recycling machine to service his/her own ve-
hicle.
l Since only a certified person may purchase re-
frigerant-according to the Clean Air Act, there are
specific restrictions on selling or distributing A/C
system refrigerant-it is legally impossible (unless
certified) for the home mechanic to service his/her
own vehicle. Procuring refrigerant in an illegal fash-
ion exposes one to the risk of paying a $25,000 fine
to the EPA.
R-12 Refrigerant Conversion
If your vehicle still uses R-12 refrigerant, one
way to save A/C system costs down the road is to invesh-
gate the possibility of having your system converted
to R-134a. The older R-12 systems can be easily
converted to R-134a refrigerant by a certified auto-
motive technician by installing a few new compo-
nents and changing the system oil.
The cost of R-12 is steadily rising and will con-
tinue to increase, because it is no longer imported or
manufactured in the United States. Therefore, it is of-
ten possible to have an R-12 system converted to R-
134a and recharged for less than it would cost to just
charge the system with R-12.
If you are interested in having your system con-
verted, contact local automotive service stations for
more details and information.
u See Figures 123 and 124
Although the A/C system should not be serviced
by the do-it-yourselfer, preventive maintenance can
be practiced and A/C system inspections can be per- Fig. 123 A coolant tester can be used to de-
1 termine the freezing and boiling levels of
the coolant in your vehicle
Fig. 124 To ensure efficient cooling system
operation, inspect the radiator cap gasket
and seal

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE 1-29
i
*Bug screens which are mounted in front of
the condenser (unless they are original
equipment) are regarded as obstructtons.
l The condensation drain tube expels any water
which accumulates on the bottom of the evaporator
housing into the engine compartment. If this tube is
obstructed, the air conditioning performance can be
restricted and condensation buildup can spill over
onto the vehicle’s floor.
l Make sure the air passage selection lever is
operating correctly. Start the engine and warm it to
normal operating temperature, then make sure the
temperature selection lever is operating correctly.
-w
~1 ELEMENT(REFILL)CARE& REPLACEMENT
SYSTEM INSPECTION
b See Figure 125 b See Figures 126 thru 135
For maximum effectiveness and longest element
Although the A/C system should not be serviced
by the do-it-yourselfer, preventive maintenance can
be practiced and A/C system inspections can be per-
formed to help maintain the efficiency of the vehicle’s
A/C system. For A/C system inspection, perform the
following:
The easiest and often most important check for the
air conditioning system consists of a visual inspec-
tion of the system components. Visually inspect the
air conditioning system for refrigerant leaks, dam-
aged compressor clutch, abnormal compressor drive
belt tension and/or condition, plugged evaporator
drain tube, blocked condenser fins, disconnected or
broken wires, blown fuses, corroded connections and
poor insulation.
A refrigerant leak will usually appear as an oily
residue at the leakage point in the system. The oily
residue soon picks up dust or dirt particles from the
surrounding air and appears greasy. Through time,
this will build up and appear to be a heavy dirt im-
pregnated grease.
For a thorough visual and operational inspection,
check the following: * Check the surface of the radiator and con-
denser for dirt, leaves or other material which might
block air flow.
l Check for kinks in hoses and lines. Check the
system for leaks.
l Make sure the drive belt is properly tensioned.
When the air conditioning is operating, make sure the
drive belt is free of noise or slippage.
l Make sure the blower motor operates at all ap-
propriate positions, then check for distribution of the
air from all outlets with the blower on HIGH or MAX.
*Keep in mind that under conditions of high
humidity, air discharged from the A/C vents
may not feel as cold as expected, even if the
system is working properly. This is because
vaporized moisture in humid air retains heat
more effectively than dry air, thereby making
humid air more difficult to cool.
lifp thp winrkhi&i nnri winor hlarlP~ shmM hP kmt . ..“. .I.” . . * ““I.. “.” I..” ...r”* “.“““” “, ,““,” “” ,~“r~ clean. Dirt, tree sap, road tar and so on will cause
streaking, smearing and blade deterioration if left on
the glass. It is advisable to wash the windshield care-
fully with a commercial glass cleaner at least once a
month. Wipe off the rubber blades with the wet rag
afterwards. Do not attempt to move wipers across the
windshield by hand; damage to the motor and drive
mechanism will result.
To inspect and/or replace the wiper blade ele-
ments, place the wiper switch in the LOW speed po-
sition and the ignition switch in the ACC position.
When the wiper blades are approximately vertical on
the windshield, turn the ignition switch to OFF.
Examine the wiper blade elements. If they are
found to be cracked, broken or torn, they should be
replaced immediately. Replacement intervals will vary
with usage, although ozone deterioration usually lim-
its element life to about one year. If the wiper pattern
is smeared or streaked, or if the blade chatters across
the glass, the elements should be replaced. It is easi-
est and most sensible to replace the elements in
pairs.
If your vehicle is equipped with aftermarket blades,
there are several different types of refills and your vehi-
tcca-23 Fig. 126 Bosch@ wiper blade and fft kit
Fig. 129 T&o* wioer blade and fit kit tCS1224
lW1Z?5 Fig. 127 LexoP wiper blade and fit kit
Fig. 128 Pylon@ wiper blade and adapter
Fig. 131 To remove and install a LexoP
Fig, 130 Tripledge@ wiper blade and fit kit wiper blade refill, slip out the old insert and
slide in a new one

.
l-30 GENERAL'INFORMATIONAND MAINTENANCE
n Pylon@ inserts, the clip
be removed prior to siidi then the insert can be re
After installing the replacement
strip and pull up while twisting counterclockwise.
The backing strip will snap out of the retaining tab.
Do this for the remaining tabs until the refill is free of
the blade. The length of these refills is molded into
the end and they should be replaced with identical
types. cate the front end is out of alignment or that the tires
are out of balance.
TIRE ROTATION
# See Figures 137 and 138
Tires must be rotated periodically to equalize wear
patterns that vary with a tire’s position on the vehicle.
Tires will also wear in an uneven way as the front
1 Fin 1% Tha Trinlarlna@
cle might have any kind. Aftermarket blades and arms
rarely use the exact same type blade or refill as the
original equipment. Here are some typiel aftermarket
blades; not all may be available for your vehicle:
The Anco@ type uses a release button that is
pushed down to allow the refill to slide out of the
yoke jaws. The new refill slides back into the frame
,
and locks in place.
Some Trico@ refills are removed by locating where
the metal backing strip or the refill is wider. Insert a
small screwdriver blade between the frame and metal
backing strip. Press down to release the refill from
the retaining tab.
Other types of Trico@’ refills have two metal tabs
which are unlocked by squeezing them together. The
rubber filler can then be withdrawn from the frame
iaws. A new refill is installed bv insertina the refill lowed to touch the olass steering/suspension system wears to the point where
the alianment should be reset.
# See Figure 138
Common sense and good driving habits will af-
ford maximum tire life. Fast starts, sudden stops
and hard cornering are hard on tires and will
shorten their useful life span. Make sure that you
don’t overload the vehicle or run with incorrect
pressure in the tires. Both of these practices will in-
crease tread wear.
*For optimum tire life, keep the fires prop
eriy inflated, rotate them often and have the
wheel alignment checked periodically.
Inspect your tires frequently. Be especially care-
ful to watch for bubbles in the tread or sidewall,
deep cuts or underinflation. Replace any tires with
bubbles in the sidewall. If cuts are so deep that they
penetrate to the cords, discard the tire. Any cut in
the sidewall of a radial tire renders it unsafe. Also
look for uneven tread wear patterns that may indi- Rotating the tires will ensure maximum life for the
tires as a set, so you will not have to discard a tire
early due to wear on only part of the tread. Regular
DIRECTIONAL TIRES DIRECTIONAL TIRES
jnto the front frame jaws and &ding it rearward to
engage the remaining frame jaws. There are usually
four jaws; be certain when installing that the refill is
engaged in all of them. At the end of its travel, the
tabs will lock into place on the front jaws of the wiper
blade frame.
Another type of refill is made from polycarbonate.
The refill has a simple locking device at one end
which flexes downward out of the groove into which
the jaws of the holder fit, allowing easy release. By
sliding the new refill through all the jaws and push-
ing through the slight resistance when it reaches the
end of its travel, the refill will lock into position.
To replace the Tridon@ refill, it is necessary to re-
move the wiper blade. This refill has a plastic backing
strip with a notch about 1 in. (25mm) from the end.
Hold the blade (frame) on a hard surface so that the
frame is tightly bowed. Grip the tip of the backing Fig. 138 A label with information concern-
ing the tires is typically located on one of
the door pillars
tion”

GENERALINFORMATIONAND MAlNTENANdE 1-31
When rotating “unidirectional tires,” make sure
that they always roll in the same direction. This
means that a tire used on the left side of the vehicle
must not be switched to the right side and vice-versa.
Such tires should only be rotated front-to-rear or
rear-to-front, while always remaining on the same
side of the vehicle. These tires are marked on the
sidewall as to the direction of rotation; observe the
marks when reinstalling the tire(s).
Some styled or “mag” wheels may have different
offsets front to rear. In these cases, the rear wheels
must not be used up front and vice-versa. Further-
more, if these wheels are equipped with unidirectional
tires, they cannot be rotated unless the tire is re-
mounted for the proper direction of rotation.
*The compact or space-saver spare is
strictly for emergency use. it must never be
included in the tire rotation or placed on the
vehicle for everyday use. check the installed tire for any sign of interference
with the body or suspension while the vehicle is stop-
ping, turning sharply or heavily loaded.
Snow Tires
Good radial tires can produce a big advantage in
slippery weather, but in snow, a street radial tire does
not have sufficient tread to provide traction and con-
trol. The small grooves of a street tire quickly pack
with snow and the tire behaves like a billiard ball on a
marble floor, The more open, chunky tread of a snow
tire will self-clean as the tire turns, providing much
better grip on snowy surfaces.
To satisfy municipalities requiring snow tires dur-
ing weather emergencies, most snow tires carry either
an M + S designation after the tire size stamped on
the sidewall, or the designation “all-season.” In gen-
eral, no change in tire size is necessary when buying
snow tires.
Most manufacturers stronqlv recommend the use styled wheels, see if inexpensive steel
wheels are available, Although the look of
the vehicle will change, the expensive
wheels will be protected from salt, curb hits
and pothole damage.
TIRESTORAGE
If they are mounted on wheels, store the tires at
proper inflation pressure. All tires should be kept in a
cool, dry place. If they are stored in the garage or
basement, do not let them stand on a concrete floor;
set them on strips of wood, a mat or a large stack of
newspaper. Keeping them away from direct moisture
is of paramount importance. Tires should not be
stored upright, but in a flat position.
INFLATION & INSPECTION
b See Figures 140 thru 147
TIRE DESIGN
p See Figure 139
for maximum satisfaction, tires should be used in
sets of four. Mixing of different types (radial, bias-
belted, fiberglass belted) must be avoided. In most
cases, the vehicle manufacturer has designated a
type of tire on which the vehicle will perform best.
Your first choice when replacing tires should be to
use the same type of tire that the manufacturer rec-
ommends.
When radial tires are used, tire sizes and wheel di-
ameters should be selected to maintain ground clear-
ante and tire load caoacitv eauivalent to the oriainal
specified tire. Radial tiresshould always be used in
sets of four. of 4 snow tires on their
lehicies for reasons of stabil-
ity. If snow tires are fitter
1 only to the drive wheels, the
opposite end of the vehil cle may become very unsta-
ble when braking or turn
ring on slippery surfaces.
This instability can lead to unpleasant endings if the
A*:,,“- r-..l, ^_.. ..& ^_^^, &I.
UIIVU MII I LUUII~~MLL iue slide in time.
Note that snow tires, whether 2 or 4, will affect ve-
hicle handling in all non-snow situations. The stiffer,
heavier snow tires will noticeably change the turning
and braking characteristics of the vehicle. Once the
snow tires are installed, you must re-learn the behav-
ior of the vehicle and drive accordingly.
*Consider buying extra wheels on which to
mount the snow tires. Once done, the “snow
iheeis” can be installed and removed as
needed. This eliminates the potential
dam- age to tires or wheels from seasonal removal
and installation. Even if your vehicle has
lb The importance of proper tire inflation cannot be
overemphasized. A tire employs air as part of its
structure. It is designed around the supporting
strength of the air at a specified pressure. For this
reason, improper inflation drastically reduces the
tire’s ability to perform as intended. A tire will lose
some air in day-to-day use; having to add a few
pounds of air periodically is not necessarily a sign of
a leaking tire.
Two items should be a permanent fixture in every
glove compartment: an accurate tire pressure gauge
and a tread depth gauge. Check the tire pressure (in-
eluding the spare) regularly with a pocket type gauge.
Too often, the gauge on the end of the air hose at
vnr rr corner narane is not accurate because it suffers
~rs check tire oressure when the
Radial tires should never be used on only the
XI I._.
‘-’ --“‘“’ J s too much abuse. Alwa!
tires are cold, as pressure increases with tempera-
ture. If you must move the vehicle to check the tire
front axle.
When selecting tires, pay attention to the original
size as marked on the tire. Most tires are described
using an industry size code sometimes referred to as
P-Metric. This allows the exact identification of the
tire specifications, regardless of the manufacturer. If
selecting a different tire size or brand, remember to
METRIC TIRE SIZES
(MILLIMETERS)
145 CDNStRUCtlDN l-6-E
R - RADIAL
D
WA9
Fig. 139 P-Metric tire coding Fig. 140 Tires should be checked frequently
I I Fig. 141 Tires with deep cuts, or cuts which
for any sion of auncture or damaoe
buioe, should be replaced immediately
l DRIVE WHEEL HEAW
ACCELERATION
l OVERINFLATION
*LACK OF ROTATION
Fig. 142 Examples of inflation-related tire
RADIAL TIRE
fig. 143 Radial tires have a characteristic
sidewall bulge; don’t try to measure pres-
sure by looking at the tire. Use a quality air
pressure gauge