FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And Repair Manual
Manufacturer: FIAT, Model Year: 1988, Model line: TEMPRA, Model: FIAT TEMPRA 1988Pages: 171, PDF Size: 18.05 MB
Page 131 of 171
Q Point 1B: This version shows the anti-lock braking system
and has discs replacing drums at the rear. One of two makes
is used
-
Lucas or Bosch
-
and both are similar in design.
Shown here is the Bosch ABS system in left hand drive form.
Apart from checking that the hydraulic and electrical connec-
tions are sound, anti-lock brakes are not repairable. Individual
components and friction materials can be replaced but
otherwise, you should consult your FIAT dealer for diagnosis
of system faults (with specialised equipment) and rectification.
SPECIAL NOTES: • Unplug the electronic control unit
(ECU) before any electric welding is carried out.
• When oven drying paint, the ECU cannot withstand 95
degrees Celsius for more than a few minutes or 85
degrees Celsius for more than 2 hours.
• Disconnect the battery earth before removing the
hydraulic control.
• When reconnecting the battery, make sure the connec-
tions are firm and sound.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: When disconnecting brake
pipes or hoses, it is essential to minimise brake fluid loss.
This can be done by unscrewing the master cylinder
reservoir cap, laying a sheet of plastic across the opening,
and refitting the cap. This will prevent atmospheric
pressure from pushing the fluid out of opened lines. D
Job 2. Front brake pads -
replacement.
Changing and checking the Tipo's and Tempra's brake pads
are virtually identical jobs. See Chapter 5, Servicing Your
Car, pages 59 and 60
Job 3. Front brake caliper -
replacement.
Carry out this work with reference to Chapter 5, Servicing
Your Car, Job 49, pages 59 and 60.
Q Step 1: Slacken the front road wheels, jack up the car
and support on axle stands. Remove the wheels.
Q Step 2: Unplug
the brake pad wear
sensor (a
-
arrowed)
and ease the fluid
pipe/hose from the
bracket (b
-
arrowed)
on
the shock absorber
leg.
Q Step 3: Undo the brake fluid pipe union from the caliper
body and plug the end to prevent too much fluid loss.
Q Step 4: Undo the bolts and remove the caliper.
D INSIDE INFORMATION! The caliper securing bolts must
always be replace by new FIAT ones when loosened or
removed. They are of a special self-locking type. B
Q Step 5: Refit in reverse order and bleed the brakes, see
Job 17
Job 4. Front brake disc -
replacement.
Q Step 1: Carry out Steps 1 to 4 in Job 3.
• Step 2:
Undo the
securing bolts
and remove
the caliper
support
bracket.
• Step 3:
Undo the disc
fixing bolts
and withdraw
the brake
disc.
Q Step 4: Refit the remaining parts in reverse order of
removal. See Chapter 5, Servicing Your Car.
Carry out this work with reference to Chapter 5, Servicing
Your Car, Job 50, pages 60 and 61.
Job 5. Rear brake shoes -
replacement.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! It often helps to work on one
side at a time, completing all the work on that side of
the car and using the other side as a reference before
you start dismantling it. Q
• Before refitting the disc,
ensure that the mating
surfaces
-
hub to disc, are
clean and undamaged.
• Spin the disc to be sure there is no 'run out' before
proceeding further.
Job 4-2
Page 132 of 171
/ ''» prac^f step *ca"be
to leave the cable disconnection until the brake shoes
are clear of the backplate.
Q Step 1: These are the brake shoe components and their
relative positions.
• Step 7: ...and
the self adjuster
return spring
followed by the
upper return spring
(arrowed).
• Step 8: Use a
pair of pliers to
push in and twist
the spring caps off
the shoe retaining
pins.
Q Step 11: The rear
shoe comes complete
with the adjuster.
• Step 3: Lever
out the cover from
the backplate to
expose the
handbrake cable
anchorage.
• Step 4:
THEORY! Using a
combination of
screwdriver and
long nosed pliers,
pull the cable nipple
until it is clear of
the step in the
anchorage and then
lift up the cable
nipple, while taking
• Step 9: Recover the caps
and springs and withdraw the
pins from the backplate.
• Step 10: Remove the brake
shoes and retrieve the return
springs.
1 - brake shoe 2 - brake shoe lower return spring 3 - brake shoe retaining pin/collet 4
-
self-adjusting device 5 - brake shoe upper return spring The arrow shows the washer/clip which has to be replaced each time the brake shoes are replaced -although they are often ready-fitted to the complete shoe adjuster assembly. Job 5-1
Job
5-8
Q Step 2: Remove the road wheel and brake drum, check
the wheel cylinder and use aerosol brake cleaner. See
Chapter 5,
Servicing Your
Car, Job 50
the pressure off the spring and allow it to
Job
5-11
come clear.
• Step 12: Release the self adjuster return spring from the
brake shoe and separate.
• Step 5: Take
the pressure off the
lower spring before
you try to remove
it. Lever the shoe
away from its lower
mounting point
(arrowed), pull it a
little way forwards, so that it slides over the front of the
mounting point and carefully release the tension.
• Step 6: Unhook and remove the lower return spring...
Page 133 of 171
Job 8. Rear brake caliper -
replacement.
• Step 13:
Clean the
adjuster
assembly and
lubricate the
adjustment
screw (2) _ ^ Job 5_13
sparingly with
copper grease. Before refitting, reset the adjuster by screwing
the ratchet wheel (1) up to the spring (3) and then back off by
half a turn.
This job is carried out in the same way as pad replacement
{Job 7) with the addition of the following:
• Step 1:
Disconnect the
handbrake cable
(arrowed) and
withdraw from
the caliper body.
• Step 2: Slacken the brake
hose at the caliper end, undo
the caliper fixing bolts
(arrowed), remove the caliper
and unscrew the caliper and
flexible hose from the end of
the previously slackened rigid
hose. Plug the hose ends.
• Step 14: Smear a little brake grease (NOT ordinary
grease) very sparingly on all the shoe contact points on the
backplate and the springs, then continue to re-assemble in
reverse order. Refer to Job
18
for handbrake cable
adjustment.
• Step 15: Make
absolutely certain that all
of the springs are in good
condition (replace any
with stretched coils or
straightened ends) and are
fitted in their correct
locations.
Job 6. Rear wheel cylinder -
replacement.
Q Step 1: Refer to Job 5 and remove the brake shoes.
Q Step 2: Undo the brake pipe union at the back of the
wheel cylinder and plug the end (arrowed). Unscrew the two
fixing bolts and withdraw the cylinder.
Q Step 3: Refit in the reverse order of removal. Refer to Job
77
for brake bleeding.
• Step 3:
H INSIDE INFOR-
MATION! Before
fitting the new caliper
it must be primed with
new brake fluid by
connecting a tube to
the opened bleed
screw and pouring
brake fluid through it
until it comes out of
the hole where the brake hose fits (arrowed). Then lock
up the bleed nipple. Q
Q Step 4: Refit the caliper using NEW self locking bolts. See
Chapter 3, Facts and Figures
• Step 5: Complete this job as described in Chapter 5,
Servicing Your Car, Job 59, page 61.
Job 7. Rear brake disc pads
replacement.
Job 9. Rear brake disc
replacement.
Changing and checking the Tipo's and Tempra's brake pads
are virtually identical jobs. See Chapter 5, Servicing Your
Car, pages 60 and 61.
Q Step 1: Remove the brake pads and caliper as described
in
Job 7
and
8
• Step 2: Undo the mounting bolts (arrowed)...
Page 134 of 171
• Step 3: ...and
remove the caliper
support bracket.
Ll Step 4: Unscrew
the disc fixing bolts and
withdraw the disc.
clean and undamaged.
• Before refitting the disc,
ensure that the mating
surfaces
-
hub to disc, are
Job 10. Master cylinder
replacement.
H INSIDE INFORMATION: • On right-hand drive cars, the
master cylinder is on the driver's side and is VERY
different to get at, behind the engine.
• To remove the master cylinder on these cars you may
need to remove the complete assembly
-
master cylinder,
servo and pedal assembly
-
from inside the car. Q
• Step 1: IMPORTANT NOTE: Protect all paint surfaces
from possible brake fluid spillage before starting work.
You know what a good paint stripper it is!
• Step 2: Syphon off as much brake fluid as possible or
bleed it out
through one of the
front brakes until
the master cylinder
makes 'sucking'
noises.
• Step 3:
Remove the
reservoir from the
master cylinder.
138
• Step 4: Use a spanner
-
preferably a purpose-made split
ring spanner
-
to undo all the pipe unions from the master
cylinder.
• Step 5:
Undo the nuts
securing the
master cylinder
to the servo and
remove it.
• Step 6: Refit
in the reverse
order and refer
to Job
77
for
bleeding the
brakes.
Job 11. Servo check
and refit.
remove
Q INSIDE INFORMATION: • Before condemning the
servo for lack of efficiency, check the condition of the
one-way valve and vacuum pipe connecting it to the
inlet manifold.
• Ease the valve out of the front of the servo and
disconnect the pipe from the inlet manifold.
• Check that you can only blow one way through the
valve
-
from the servo end towards the inlet manifold (or
the brake vacuum pump
-
Diesel models).
• The vacuum pipe can suffer failure in many ways. Age
can harden it until it cracks, causing an air leak which
sometimes results in a whistling noise and rough slow-
running.
• Loose connections could also produce the same result.
• The other type of vacuum hose failure is an implosion
(where the hose is sucked flat by the vacuum) often
because oil has softened the hose.
• This is not so easily detected, as it rarely upsets the
engine performance and resumes its normal shape
shortly after the engine is stopped.
• The inner lining can also deteriorate, causing a
blockage. Q
• Step 1: Follow Job
10
to remove the master cylinder.
• Step 2: From inside the car, unhook the accelerator cable
from the pedal fork.
• Step 3:
Undo the
fixing nuts,
remove the
retaining
plate and
pedal
assembly.
•
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Page 135 of 171
Job 12. Pressure regulating valve,
non-ABS system - replacement
and adjustment.
• Step 9: Bleed the brakes, see Job
17
139
-8
The pressure regulating valve is also known as the load
proportioning valve.
[G Step 1: Position the car on ramps, over a pit or on a lift,
keeping the weight on the rear wheels.
• Step 2: Remove the handbrake cable from its support
bracket on the fuel tank...
• Step 3: ...and
remove the support
bracket for the rear
exhaust section for better
access.
• Step 4: Undo all the
pipe unions on the
regulating valve using
split ring spanners where
possible, to avoid
damage. Plug the ends
of the pipes and catch
any fluid that drains out.
Unhook the spring
(arrowed) from the
mounting bracket.
Q Step 5: Undo the fixing belts and remove the valve
assembly.
• Step 6: Mount the new unit, remake all hydraulic
connections and connect the spring. Note that, if the valve
does not work properly, it cannot be repaired but must be
replaced.
• Step 7: Place a load of 60 kg with a full fuel tank, or 90
kg with an empty fuel tank, as far forward as possible in the
boot.
• Step 4: Prise
off the sound
proofing plate
stud with a screw-
driver (1, which
cannot be re-
used) and
unscrew the stud
(2). Move the
plate (3) to one
side, to give
access to the
servo retaining
nuts.
• Step 5:
Remove the split
pin
and
disconnect the
servo rod from
the brake pedal.
G Step 6: Move
the sound
proofing plate
sufficiently to
remove the servo
mounting nuts
(three
-
arrowed;
one being
unscrewed by a
socket extension).
G Step 7: From
under the bonnet,
withdraw the
servo from the
bulkhead.
G Step 9: Adjust the nut as
necessary to achieve this
setting measuring through
the aperture in the front
cover, from inside the engine
bay.
G Step 10: Continue re-
assembly in reverse order.
G Step 8:
When refitting the
servo to the
bulkhead and
with the pushrod
(a) connected to
the brake pedal,
the gap between
the piston control
rod adjusting nut
(b) and the master
cylinder mounting
flange should be
between 22.45
and 22.65 mm.
22.45-22.65 mm
• Step 8:
• Loosen the
bracket
retaining screw
(1).
• Apply a
downwards
force to the
bracket eye (2)
of 55 Nm for all
models except
the 1600
automatic
petrol and 1900
turbo diesel which should be 30 Nm.
• Keeping the bracket (3) in position. Tighten the retaining
screw (1).
Page 136 of 171
Job 13. Pressure regulating
valves, ABS system - replacement
and adjustment.
Job 14. RPM sensors, ABS
systems - replacement.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! The RPM sensors align with
the flywheels (which look like toothed rings) and which
rotate with the road wheels. The sensors measure the
vehicle's running speed, acceleration, deceleration and
wheel creep. These signals are sent to the electronic
control unit and allow it to instruct the hydraulic control
unit to vary the brake fluid pressure to each wheel as
necessary to prevent the brakes from locking up. E3
• Step 1: This
is the position of
the front wheel
sensor (a)...
• Step 2: ...and
this is the position
of the rear wheel
sensor (arrowed).
H INSIDE INFORMATION! FIAT advise that no adjust-
ments can be made, so, if the gap is outside these values,
clean and check the condition and the seating of the
sensor and the condition of the flywheel. D
L_l Step 4: To remove the sensor, undo the fixing screw and
withdraw the sensor from its housing, then trace the wire to
the connector and unplug it.
• Step 5: Clean round the housing and fit the new sensor,
ensuring that it is properly seated.
O Step 6: Secure the wire along its route to the connector
and plug in.
• Step 1: Position the car over a pit or on a lift with the
weight still on the wheels. Locate the valves
-
one on each
suspension trailing arm.
• Step 2: Undo
the brake pipe
unions (a) using
(preferably) a split
ring spanner and
plug the ends of
the pipes. Remove
the two upper
securing bolts
shown here
• Step 3: Take out the
lower two bolts and
remove the valve.
• Step 4: Install the
new valve and connect
the brake pipes.
• Step 5: With the car
at its normal weight
including spare wheel
and fuel, add a load of 50
kg to the boot as far
forward as possible.
• Step 6:
• Loosen the
bracket fixing bolt
(1).
• Hang a weight
of 2 kg from the
bracket eye (2).
• Keep the
bracket in this
position while you
tighten and lock
the fixing bolt (1).
Q Step 7: Repeat this adjustment on the other side to
ensure equal braking.
• Step 8: Bleed the brakes. See Job
17
• Step 3:
Check the gap
between the end
of each sensor and the flywheel, at the front (see illustration
Job
14-1,
part b) and at the rear. The correct gap should be:
• 1400/1600 petrol
-
between 0.62 and 1.35 mm, both front
and rear.
• 1900 turbo Diesel
-
between 0.225 and 0.925 mm for the
fronts and between 0.13 and 1.27 mm for the rears.
Page 137 of 171
Job 15. Flexible hoses -
replacement.
• Step 8: Bleed the brakes, see Job
17
H INSIDE INFORMATION: When disconnecting brake
pipes or hoses, it is helpful to minimise brake fluid loss.
This can be done by unscrewing the master cylinder
reservoir cap, laying a sheet of plastic across the
opening, and refitting the cap. This will prevent atmos-
pheric pressure from pushing the fluid out of opened
lines. D
/ • If a rigid pipe starts to
twist with the union, grip
the pipe as lightly as
possible, and see if you can stop it from turning.
• If not, cut through the pipe with a junior hacksaw
and replace the length of rigid pipe.
Job 16. Metal pipes -
replacement.
B INSIDE INFORMATION: When disconnecting brake
pipes or hoses, it is helpful to minimise brake fluid loss.
This can be done by unscrewing the master cylinder
reservoir cap, laying a sheet of plastic across the
opening, and refitting the cap. This will prevent atmos-
pheric pressure from pushing the fluid out of opened
lines. A pipe spanner makes the job much easier! B
Step 1: Undo the unions at each end of a pipe length.
Patience is often required because of the union seizing both in
its threads and on the pipe. See MAKING IT EASY! after Job
15,
Step 8 Use penetrating oil to help free seized unions, and
use a split-ring spanner rather than an open-ended one, to
reduce the risk of rounding off the union nuts.
• Step 2: Detach the pipe length from its securing clips and
remove it.
i^vj ens s * ^ step 3: where possible, use the old pipe as
a pattern to shape the new
one prior to fitting.
• Step 4: Follow the original route and secure the pipe in
the body clips.
Q Step 5: Connect the unions and bleed the system. See
Job
17
Job 17. Brake bleeding.
B INSIDE INFORMATION: Unless the master cylinder or
pressure regulating valve has been disturbed, it will only
be necessary to bleed the end of the braking system
which has been opened. If bleeding the whole system,
start bleeding at the left-hand rear brake. B
G Step 6: These are the correct positions of clips and
protective washers on the hose. Figures with a * are for 1929
turbo Diesel only.
• Step 7: B INSIDE INFORMATION! Changing the rear
hoses is the same, but there are no electrical cables or
protective washers. B
s • When bleeding the rear
brakes, keep the normal
weight on the rear wheels
to prevent the pressure limiting valve from inhibiting
the brake fluid flow.
expert22 f
\9\ http://rutracker.org 141
Ul Step 1: Undo the front hose rigid pipe union (see illus-
tration Job
15-2,
part a) where hose and pipe join at the
support bracket. Use the spanner underneath the bracket to
stop the hose twisting. Take care not to damage the bracket
or tear it off the body.
• Step 2: Pull out the
dip (b).
G Step 3: Unplug the
electrical connection for
the brake pad wear
sensor and unclip it from
the hose.
G Step 4: Unscrew and
remove the hose
from its other end -
it screws into a
female thread.
• Step 5: Refit in
reverse order and
position the
washers and the
position of the
hose at the
anchorage point
(A) as shown, so as
to prevent chafing
on the body when suspension and steering movement take
place. When tightening each union, make sure you haven't
put a twist in the hose!
Page 138 of 171
• Step 1:
Push a tight
fitting length
of plastic or
rubber tubing
(a) onto the
first bleed
screw (b) and
immerse the
other end in a
small quantity
of brake fluid
(c) contained in a glass jar in such a way that no air can
accidentally be pulled up the tube.
• Step 2: With a ring spanner (illustrations Job 17-1, part,
d), undo the brake bleed screw (at the drum brake backplate
or on the disc caliper body) by half a turn. Have your helper
push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it there while you
lock up the bleed valve. Then release the pedal slowly. Repeat
several times, with the following suggested dialogue:
YOU. (Open bleed screw) "Open!"
(called
out
loud)
HELPER.
(Pushes
pedal down) "Down!"
YOU.
(Close
bleed screw) "Closed!"
HELPER. (Letspedal up) "Up!"
-
repeated, as necessary.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Take great care not to let the master
cylinder run out of brake fluid. Otherwise you will
introduce fresh air into the system and have to start
again. Use ONLY fresh brake fluid from a previously
unopened container.
• Step 3: Top up the fluid reservoir frequently while
repeating the bleeding operation until all air is expelled from
the brake line (no bubbles appear in the tube or jar).
LI Step 4: Bleed each remaining brake in the same way,
going to the right-hand front next, followed by the right-hand
rear, and finishing with the left-hand front brake. Top up fluid
and check all connections for leaks.
Job 18. Handbrake cables -
replacement.
• Step 1: Familiarise yourself with the handbrake cable
layout. The following instructions refer to this drawing.
FRONT CABLE
Q Step 2: Jack up and support the rear of the car on axle
stands.
LI Step 3: From inside the car, remove the handbrake lever
cover by undoing the single fixing screw and fully release the
handbrake.
D Step 4: Unscrew the adjusting nut from the end of the
cable. You will find it underneath the base of the handbrake
lever.
• Step 5: From under the car, release the front ends of the
rear cables from the equaliser, then pull the front cable
through the floor aperture.
LI Step 6: Refit in the reverse order and adjust the cable nut
until the lever travels no more than three notches on the
ratchet when you pull the brake on, and when released, the
wheels still revolve freely.
REAR CABLES
• Step 7: Carry out Steps 1 to 3.
• Step 8: Unscrew the adjusting nut to the end of its
thread.
• Step 9: Unhook the front of the rear cables from the
equaliser. See Step 5
• Step 10: In the case of rear drum brakes, detach the
cables from the brakes as described in Job 5, Steps 3 and
4.
LI Step 11: In the case of disc rear brakes, see Job 8, Step
1.
• Step 12: Re-assemble in reverse order.
1 - handbrake lever and toothed sector 2 - front cable and anchorage 3 - rear cables 4 - support plate
5 - equaliser 6 - adjusting nut 7 - cable mounting bracket 8 - handbrake lever cover
Job 18-1
• Step 13: Adjust the handbrake
cable until the lever comes up no more
than three notches and when released,
allows both of the rear wheels to revolve
freely. Try spinning them by hand with
rear of the car raised off the ground.
Page 139 of 171
PART I: BODY AMD INTERIOR
PART 1: Contents
Job 1. Bonnet
-
removal and refitting. Job 8. Tempra boot lid locking mechanism
-
removal and
Job 2. Bonnet locking mechanism
-
replacement and refitting.
adjustment. Job 9. Front bumper and grille
-
removal and refitting.
Job 3. Radiator grille
-
removal and refitting. Job 10. Rear bumper
-
removal and refitting.
Job 4. Tipo/Tempra tailgate
-
removal and refitting. Job 11. Door trim panel
-
removal and refitting.
Job 5. Tipo tailgate locking mechanism
-
removal and Job 12. Door component
-
removal and replacement
refitting. Job 13. Door removal, replacement and adjustment.
Job 6. Tempra estate tailgate locking mechanism
-
removal Job 14. Door mirror
-
replacement.
and refitting. Job 15. Sun roof
-
removal and refitting.
Job 7. Tempra boot lid
-
removal and refitting. Job 16. Front seats
-
removal and refitting.
-Job 17. Rear seats
-
removal and refitting.
Job 1. Bonnet - removal and
refitting.
Job 2. Bonnet locking mechanism
- replacement and adjustment.
• Step 1: Note the bonnet hinges, support and stops.
G Step 2: Use the prop and hold the bonnet open. Outline
the hinge positions on the bonnet with masking tape for
accurate refitment.
G Step 3: Ask an assistant to support the bonnet. Undo the
two hinge fixing bolts. Carefully lift the bonnet clear.
if refitting the bonnet, put a
piece of cloth under each
rear corner to protect the bodywork.
• Step 1: This drawing shows left and right hand drive
layouts. Select which is right for your car.
• Step 2: The two screws (illustration Job 2-3 arrowed)
used to fix the locking pin/safety catch assembly to the bonnet
are also used for fore and aft adjustment. This is best done a
little at a time until smooth operation is achieved.
• Step 3: Height
adjustment (levelling with
the wings) is achieved by
screwing the bump stops
(inset, arrowed) up or
down. Then slacken the
G Step 5: When refitting, tighten the bolts just enough to
grip the hinges, then carefully lower the bonnet to check for
correct alignment all round
-
equal gapping.
When the alignment is satisfactory, tighten the bolts to their
correct torque, See Chapter 3, Facts and Figures
[G Step 4: To remove the lock/striker assembly, separate the
cable eyelet from the operating lever hook, see illustration Job
2-1, parts 13 and 14
1 - lock/striker assembly, front panel 2 - locking pin/safety catch, bonnet 3 - release lever. (Also fitted other side, some R/H drive cars) 4 - cable, L/H drive 5 - cable, R/H drive
and secondary cable, R/H drive 7 - screw 8
-
washer 9 - bolt 10 - bolt
11 - cable clip 12 - cable fixing screw 13 - cable eyelet 14 - operating lever hook Job 2-1
locking nut (hidden
behind the locking pin
spring) and screw the
locking pin up or down
until the bonnet will shut
when dropped from 30 cm height and then have no
movement on the lock. Don't forget to tighten the locknut.
Page 140 of 171
Job 3. Radiator grille - removal
and refitting.
Job 5. Tipo tailgate locking
mechanism - removal and
refitting.
Job 4. Tipo/Tempra tailgate -
removal and refitting.
Q Step 5: Undo the securing bolts (see illustration Job
2-1,
part
10)
and remove the lock.
Q Step 6: Refit in reverse order.
Q Step 7: Replace a cable by disconnecting it at each end
and releasing it from any securing clips. Run the new cable
along the same route and re-connect and secure.
• Step 1: Undo the
two fixing screws
(arrowed)...
Q Step 2: ...and pull
out at the top of the grille
to release it from the
securing clips. Withdraw
the grille.
• Step 3: Refit in
reverse order.
• Step 1:
Disconnect the
battery negative
terminal.
• Step 2A: Take
note of this
exploded view of
the Tipo tailgate.
• Step 2B: This is
the Tempra estate
layout.
IMPORTANT
NOTE: While these
instructions are for
the Tipo, the
Tempra estate is
very similar.
• Step 1:
Study this
exploded view of
the locking
mechanism to
help you under-
stand the job.
• Step 2:
Remove the five
bolts (a) securing
the lock
assembly...
• Step 3: ...and
carefully lever off the five
buttons (see illustration
Job
5-2,
arrowed). The
lock assembly (fitted to
the inside of the cover) is
now free.
• Step 6: TIPO ONLY:
Remove the semi-circular
safety spring from the gas
strut balljoints and pull the
socket off the ball.
TEMPRA SW ONLY:
Unbolt the tailgate from the
hinges.
• Step 7: Extract the circlips retaining the hinge pins with
pliers. Support the forward end of the tailgate and knock out
the hinge pins (arrowed), and remove the tailgate.
WARNING! At all costs, avoid loosening the Tipo's hinge
bolts on the body or tailgate
-
or they will have to be
replaced, according to FIAT.
• Step 8: H INSIDE INFORMATION! • When removing
and when refitting, particular attention must be paid
when inserting the stop engagement teeth to avoid
breaking and replacing the stops.
• To refit, insert the upper tooth, then turn the stop
downwards and insert the lower tooth. B
Q Step 9: Continue to re-assemble in reverse order.
Job 5-1
• Step 3:
Disconnect all the
electrical connec-
tions and the washer tubing.
• Step 4: Remove the left cable duct (left-side) and
withdraw the cables from the body shell. Its 'twin', on the
other side, is a plain stop. See Step 8
• Step 4: Unplug the
lock servo control
connector from inside the cover and remove the lock assembly
from the car.
Q Step 5: Disconnect the control rod (see illustration Job
5-1,
part 6) and remove the speed fasteners (Job
5-1,
part
5).
• Step 5: Support the weight of the tailgate with a suitable
length of timber and protective pad.
• Step 6: Remove the two screws (illustration Job
5-1,
parts 4, 9 and
10)
and the closing device (Job
5-1,
part
7).