FIAT TEMPRA 1988 Service And Owners Manual

Q Step 2: Before starting the engine, make sure all your
electrical connections are sound and your fuel, oil and coolant
connections are correct and secure.
Q Step 3: Run the engine to working temperature and then
allow to cool. Re-check all fluid levels.
Job 20. Diesel engine.
Mountings - replacement.

See
Job
12
and Job
18,
Step 20
Job 21. Diesel engine/
transmission (removed from car)
- separation.
Q Step 1: Remove the starter motor.
• Step 2: On the turbo version, undo the flange bolts see
Job
18,
Step 16A and withdraw the drive-shaft extension, if

still
fitted.
Q Step 3: Unbolt and remove the rear engine plate and the
gearbox, being careful to support the gearbox weight as it is
withdrawn.
Job 22. Diesel engine/
transmission (removed from car)
- reconnection.
Q Step 1: Before proceeding, check the condition of the

clutch and
its release mechanism. Make sure the driven plate

is
properly centred on the flywheel
-
see PART B: TRANS-
MISSION.
Q Step 2: Now reverse the order of separation, but be

careful when
engaging the gearbox input shaft with the

clutch
driven plate that you don't 'hang' its weight on the

splines.
Also,
see
Job 11.
Job 23. Diesel engine -
dismantling.

This Job should
be read in conjunction with Job 5 The

engines are
broadly similar although the information given in

this Job takes
priority for diesel engines. It is MOST
IMPORTANT that you read the FACT FILE on page 84.
SAFETY FIRST!
•
The inside
of diesel engines are particularly filthy
places!
•
Old diesel
oil
is
carcinogenic!
•
Wear suitable
impervious gloves!
I
• Step 1: Remove the timing belt and cylinder head. See
Jobs
13
and 14.
Q Step 2: Remove the alternator, water pump and
thermostat housing distribution pipe.
• Step 3: Remove the crankshaft timing belt sprocket.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Note that the bolt securing
the crankshaft sprocket has a left-hand thread and must
be undone clockwise. D
• Step 4: Unbolt the timing belt tensioner and idler pulleys.
• Step 5: Remove the injection pump sprocket.
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! You will need two FIAT tools
for this operation. One (No. 1860473000) is to prevent
the sprocket from turning when undoing the nut, and
the other (extractor No. 1842128000) to pull the sprocket
from the injection pump shaft. Alternatively it may be
possible to improvise a means of preventing sprocket
rotation, and a suitable three-leg puller may be carefully
used to withdraw the sprocket. Take care not to lose the
pump shaft Woodruff key. B
• Step 6:
Unbolt and
detach the
support bracket
(a) from the rear
of the injection
pump (b). Unbolt
the pump flange
and bracket
nuts, and
remove the
pump and its
front bracket (c).
• Step 7: Remove and discard the old oil filter.
Step 8: Remove the crankcase breather, the low-oil-
pressure switch and the oil pressure gauge sensor from the
front face of the engine.
• Step 9: Turn the engine upside down and remove the
flywheel and the sump.

• Step 11:
Remove the oil pick-
up pipe and filter
and the oil return
pipe.
• Step 16: Keep the shell bearing halves in their original
locations if they are to be reused, otherwise push them out,
don't try to lift!.
• Step 17: Remove the remaining piston/conrod assemblies
tapping them through the tops of the bores with a hammer
handle.
• Step 12: Remove the front cover and oil pump assembly... • Step 18: Check the
crankshaft main bearing
caps and webs to see that
they are correctly
numbered (by means of
notches) from the timing
cover end and visible
from the flywheel end.
Remove the caps and
half-shell bearings and
keep them in order.
• Step 10:
Q INSIDE
INFORMATION:
The sump
invariably
'glues' itself in
place DON'T
lever it! Use an
old spatula and
drive it
through the
gasket, cleaning it
off later. E3
• Step 15: Undo the
big-end bolts and
withdraw one
piston/conrod assembly,
keeping it with its
bearing cap.
• Step 14: Check the
big-end bearing caps
and the connecting rods
to make sure they have
matching numbers
starting from the timing
cover end. Otherwise,
mark them with a centre
punch. It is essential that
you know which way
round each one goes
when reassembling!
• Step 13: ...and the rear crankshaft seal and carrier.

CRANKSHAFT
• Step 1: TURBO ONLY: Before fitting the crankshaft,
install the four piston sprays (a) and stake the retaining plates
(arrowed).
Q Step 2: Locate the main bearing shells so that they are
firmly seated and their tabs engage with the slots in the
journal webs.
• Step 3: Apply some grease to the smooth side of the
thrust washers and 'stick' them in position on both sides of
the rear main bearing web (at the flywheel end).
• Step 4: Oil the shells liberally with fresh engine oil and
lower the crankshaft into position.
• Step 5: Fit the remaining halves of the shells into the
bearing caps. Oil the journals and position the caps the right
way round and in the correct order.
• Step 6: Screw the bolts in finger-tight and check that the
crankshaft rotates freely and smoothly.
Q Step 7: Tighten the bolts evenly and progressively until
the specified torque setting is reached, see Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures. Check again that the crankshaft rotates
smoothly.
• Step 19:

Lift
the crank-
shaft clear of the
cylinder block,
retrieve the
other halves of

the
bearing
shells...
• Step 20:

...and
the two

thrust
washers

from
the rear
main bearing
web.
• Step 21:
TURBO
ENGINES ONLY.
Unbolt and

remove
the four
piston cooling

sprays
(a) from

the
cylinder
block oil gallery.

The
bearing shell
positions are
arrowed.
Job 24. Diesel engine -
reassembly.
Before starting work, read the notes at the beginning of
Job 6 for petrol engine reassembly
-
the checks and
preparation being basically the same for diesel engines.
H INSIDE INFORMATION! TURBO ENGINES ONLY. The
piston cooling sprays must be checked for serviceability
before refitting. Each spray contains its own valve which

must
open at between 1.25 and 1.75 bar. Below this
figure could cause excessive oil burning and low oil
pressure. Above this figure might result in the piston
overheating and its subsequent failure. Have your FIAT
dealer carry out this check, and replace any faulty units if
necessary. Q
• Step 9: Fit new oil
seals to the two seal
carriers.
• Step 10: Fit the
rear oil seal carrier (with
its new seal), using a
new gasket. Lubricate
the seal (illustration Job

24-9,
part b) and
lightly oil the gasket (a).
• Step 11: Position Nos. 1 and 4 crank pins at Top Dead
Centre (TDC), then fit the flywheel with its TDC mark facing
the cylinder head surface. Screw in the fixing bolts and tighten
to their specified torque. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures
Job 23-21
Q Step 8: Turn and lever the crankshaft tight against the
timing end and check the crankshaft end float by using a
feeler gauge between the thrust washer on the timing side of
the web and the crankshaft. Thicker washers are available if
required. See Chapter
3, Facts and Figures.

U Step 12: Fit a new seal to the front cover/oil pump
assembly, unless a new pump is being fitted, and install with a
new gasket, lightly oiling both gasket and seal. Align the cover
with the sump support plate.
PISTON CONNECTING RODS ASSEMBLIES
• Step 13:
H INSIDE
INFORMATION!
Refer to the illus-
tration and note
that the piston
should be fitted
to the connecting
rod so that when
viewed from the
timing end the
crown lift (1) is
on the right
hand/injection
pump (2) side. At
the same time,
the bore numbers
stamped on the connecting rod (3) should face left, the
opposite side. The piston pins are an interference fit in
the pistons and can be tapped into position using an
ordinary drift and secured with circlips. H
Refer to Job 6. Steps 11 to
18,
for installation procedures.
Q Step 14: Refit the oil pump pick-up and return pipes.
• Step 15: Refit the sump using a new gasket. Check that
the drain plug is tight.
• Step 16: Complete the reassembly by fitting all the
external components in the reverse order of removal. Refer to
Job
15
for cylinder head refitting.
• Step 17: Reconnect the engine to the transmission. See
Job
22

• Step 18: Refit the complete unit to the car. See Job
19

• Step 19: Bleed the fuel system. See PART F: FUEL AND
EXHAUST
Q INSIDE INFORMATION! Bleeding the fuel system
involves turning the engine on the starter. This should
allow it to gain oil pressure before 'firing up', but check
that the oil light has gone out as soon as the engine
starts. H
Q Step 20: Allow the engine to run at 'fast idle' until it
reaches working temperature and switch off. Allow it to cool
and check the oil and coolant levels and look for any leaks.
Q Step 21: Avoid over-rewing or overloading the engine
during its settling down period of 600 miles. We recommend
an oil and filter change at this mileage
-
this will help to
extend the life of your engine.
PART B: TRANSMISSION
PART B: Contents
Job 1. Transmission removal (with engine in car).
Job 2. Transmission refitting (with engine in car).
Job 3. Clutch
-
replacement.
Job 4. Clutch cable
-
replacement.
Job 5. Gear lever and linkage
-
removal and refitting.
Job 6. Kickdown cable (automatic transmission)
-

replacement.
Job 7. Kickdown cable (automatic transmission)
-

adjustment.
Job 8. Automatic gear selector control cable
-
replacement.
Job 9. Drive-shaft
-
removal and refitting.
Job 10. Drive-shaft (outer) constant velocity joint
-

replacement.
Job 11. Drive-shaft inner spider joint
-
replacement.
Job 12. Drive-shaft damper
-
replacement.
Job 13. Front hub/bearings
-
replacement.
Job 14. Hydraulic clutch components.
Job 1. Transmission removal
(with engine in car).
IMPORTANT NOTE: This operation is for cars fitted with
the 1400 and 1600cc petrol engines and non-turbo diesel
engines. For the 1930cc turbo diesel engined version the
complete power unit must be removed and then
separated. See PART A, Jobs 18, 19, 21 and 22 for the
removal of several of the ancillaries detailed here.
• Step 1:
Before
starting
work, ensure
that you can
support the
car suffi-
ciently high
off the ground for the gearbox to be removed from beneath.
Make sure that the gearbox-end of the engine is supported
from above the car, or from beneath. You may be able to
fabricate your own version of this FIAT tool (arrowed).

• Step 2: Remove the bonnet. Disconnect and remove the
battery.
0 Step 3: Drain the oil from the transmission.
0 Step 4: Disconnect the clutch cable or remove the slave
cylinder, if hydraulic, from the top of the gearbox.
• Step 13: Disconnect the
gearchange rods at the gearbox
(arrowed).
O Step 14: Remove the trans-
mission mounting and bracket
assembly.
Job 2. Transmission refitting
(with engine in car).
/ a 5tep1S: • SLjpp°n the
'' £/ gearbox in such a way that
when disconnecting, it can
be withdrawn smoothly and without 'hanging' on the
engine. A trolley jack might do the job nicely.
• Step 16:
Undo the gearbox
to engine fixing
bolts...
• Step 17: ...slide the
box back until it's clear of
the clutch and lower it to
the ground using a
hydraulic stand or trolley
jack.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Refer to PART A: ENGINE, Jobs 8
and 9 in connection with this Job.
• Step 1: Refitting is the reverse of the removal work
carried out in Job 1 but bear in mind the following:
Q Step 2: Centralise the clutch driven plate, if it has been
disturbed. See Job 3.
• Step 3: NON-HYDRAULIC CLUTCHES ONLY. Adjust the
clutch cable. See Job 4
Q Step 6: Raise the front of the car and support securely on

axle stands.
Remove the road wheels and the previously
slackened hub nuts.
Q Step 7: Remove the wheel arch protective shields.
Q Step 8: Disconnect the speedometer cable from the
gearbox. (If digital instrumentation, disconnect the wiring

from
the sender unit.)
Q Step 9: Disconnect and remove the starter motor and

unplug
the reverse light connector and the earth lead from

the
transmission housing.
Q Step 10: Undo the trackrod ends securing nuts and use a
suitable 'splitter' tool to part the balljoints from the steering

arms.
Slacken the drive-shaft inner boot securing clips. Undo

the pinch
bolts fixing the stub axles to the suspension struts,

pull
the stub axles clear and extract the drive-shafts.
0 Step 11: Support the engine at the gearbox end, just

taking
the weight as described in Step 1.
Q Step 12: Remove the central power unit support (a), the
flywheel guard (b) and the exhaust bracket (c).
• Step 5: With

the
car
still
on the
ground, loosen

the nuts
fixing the
constant velocity

joints
to the hubs.
These require an
enormous force

to be
tightened or
released (see

Chapter 3,
Facts and Figures) and they will have been
staked. There is a severe risk of pulling the car off supports if

you
attempt to undo these nuts while the car is raised off the
ground. Slacken the front wheel nuts.
Job 1-14

• Step 4: Refill the gearbox with the correct grade and
quantity of FL oil. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.
Section as appropriate, for the replacement of the rear
crankshaft seal. B
—1 Step 5: When the brake calipers have been refitted,
pump the brake pedal until its normal solid feel is restored.
• Step 6: Use a self-grip wrench to reconnect the gear rod
balls and sockets. Use new drive-shaft nuts, tightened to the
correct torque and staked into the shaft grooves with a
punch. See Job 9.
Job 3. Clutch - replacement.
1 - cover plate 2 - driven plate 3 - release bearing
4 - retaining bolt 5 - spring washer
;
Job 3-1
Q Step 1: These first three numbered parts are the parts
you will need to obtain, from your FIAT dealership.
FACT FILE: CLUTCH COMPONENTS
• We strongly recommend that all three
main components: clutch cover, driven
plate and release bearing are replaced
after a high mileage, ensuring longer life
and smoother operation.
• If one is worn, they are all likely to be, so save
yourself another big stripdown in the near future!
LI Step 2: Remove the transmission. See Job 1.
• Step 3: Unscrew the clutch cover bolts (see illustration
Job
3-1,
part 4) progressively until the spring pressure is
released, then remove the bolts. Ease the cover (part 1) off its
dowels and catch the driven plate {part 2) as it falls.
• Step 6: Check the surface of the flywheel that mates
with the clutch, for scoring, or significant micro cracking
caused by excessive head generated by clutch slip. Replace the
flywheel if in doubt.
7ZJ
• Step 7: Check the
release fork pivot, inside
the bellhousing, for wear
Replace the bushes (see
inset) if necessary, lubri-
cating with a small
quantity of molybdenum
disulphide grease.
• Step 8: Replace the bush
(a) by removing the circlip (b)
from the lever shaft (d). Note
the position of the arm (c) on
the splines for refitting and
slide it off. Prise the bush out
using a screwdriver. Lubricate
the new bush with a small
quantity of molybdenum disul-
phide grease and install. Refit
the arm to the fork control
shaft (d) with a new circlip.
Refit the release bearing (e).
• Step 9: Clean any oil (or the protective film) from the
clutch cover and flywheel faces.
• Step 10: Offer the driven plate to the flywheel with the
side having the greatest hub projection facing outwards.
• Step 11: Locate the clutch cover on the flywheel dowels
and screw in the fixing bolts finger tight.
• Step 12: Use an aligning tool to make sure that the
clutch is centralised, otherwise the gearbox will not relocate
on the engine and damage can be caused to the centre plate.
B INSIDE INFORMATION: There is no spigot bush or
bearing in the crankshaft end, but there is an inden-
tation which you can 'feel' with a normal clutch
alignment tool allowing you to centralise the driven
plate between the clutch cover release fingers. B
• Step 5: B INSIDE
INFORMATION: Check
the inside of the
clutch bellhousing for
contamination by oil.
This indicates a leak
from either the
crankshaft rear seal
or the gearbox input
shaft seal (illus-
trated). A faulty seal should be replaced without delay.
Oil can cause judder and slip. Here, the seal (inset) is
being replaced. See PART A: ENGINE, Job 21 for the
position of the rear crankshaft seal. B
• Step 4: B INSIDE
INFORMATION! Check
the inside of the clutch
bell housing for conta-
mination by oil. This
indicates a leak from
either the crankshaft
rear seal or the
gearbox input shaft
seal. Oil can cause
judder and slip.
Replace the gearbox seal by removing the screws holding
in the thrust bearing sleeve (a), prising out the old and
fitting a new seal (b). See PART A: Petrol or Diesel

• Step 13: Tighten the cover bolts evenly to the correct
torque. See Chapter
3,
Facts and Figures.
G Step 14: Smear a little 'copper' grease on the release
bearing guide and the gearbox input shaft.
G Step 15: Refit the transmission. See Job 2.
lob 4. Clutch cable - replacement.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Later cars have hydraulic clutches
see Job 14.
• Step 1: From under the bonnet, slacken the cable
adjusting nut (11). Disconnect the cable from the release lever

and
outer cable bracket.
the car, with securing nuts, or it may be 'worked' in to its
housing) then pull the gaiter/knob assembly from the top of
the lever. (This is a push fit when refitting.)
IG Step 3: From under the car, undo and remove the nut
and bolt securing the control rod (2) from the base of the
gearlever.
• Step 4: Undo the two bolts securing the gearlever
mounting and extract the lever from under the car.
Q Step 5: From under the bonnet, disconnect rods 4, 5 and
6 at the gearbox end by unscrewing them, or by prising the
balls from their sockets, according to type.
Q Step 6: Remove the circlip and washer and lift the
selection link bellcrank (3) off its retaining pin and remove the
complete assembly from the car.
• Step 7: Inspect all components for wear and replace as
necessary, reassembling in the reverse order.
Job 6. Kickdown cable (automatic
transmission) - replacement.
Q Step 1: Drain the automatic transmission oil and remove
the sump. Discard the old gasket. See Chapter
5,
Servicing
Your Car, Job 18
G Step 2: From inside the car, disconnect the cable from

the foot
pedal by removing the securing clip (see illustration

Job 4-1,
part 5) and pulling the cable end off its pivot.
G Step 3: Unbolt the cable retaining plate from the
bulkhead. Pull the cable out from inside the car.
G Step 4: Fit the new cable in the reverse order and adjust.

See Chapter 5,
Servicing Your Car, Job 20
Job 5. Gear lever and linkage -
removal and refitting.
1
-
gear lever mounting 6 - reaction rod 2
•
control rod 3-selection link bellcrank 4
-
gear selection rod 5
-
gear engagement rod
7 - bearings 8 - retaining pin -selection link bellcrank 9 - gearlever knob/gaiter assembly
Job 5-1
^ Step 1: Familiarise yourself with this drawing, which

Step 2
onwards refers. n
J Step 2: Detach the bottom of the gearlever gaiter from

its location
on the tunnel, (it may be held down from beneath
expert22
f:
1 - kick-down cable 2 - idler pulley 3 & 7 - locknuts 4 & 8 - adjusters 5 - accelerator cable 6 - cable-end nipple Job 6-2
• Step 2: Disconnect the cable from the throttle control
idler pulley.
1 - gear selector valve control cable 2 - selector lever 3 - eyelet on selector 4 - cable adjustment nut 5 - bracket fixing selector lever to bodyshell 6 - gearbox lever 7 - bracket for control cable
Q Step 3: Remove the securing clip and disconnect the
kickdown cable (1) from the selector (3).
fl/ifl http://rutracker.org

Job 8. Automatic gear selector
control cable - replacement.
• Step 4:
Release the
outer cable
centring bush
from its
housing in the
gearbox.
• Step 5: H INSIDE INFORMATION! To
do this, you will have to make a simple
tool as shown here. There is no FIAT
'special tool'
-
each dealer has to make
this one himself! Use the tool to push
lightly upwards, so that the cable
centring bush (illustration Job
6-4

arrowed) comes out of its seat. B
• Step 6: Fit the new cable in the reverse
order. Use a new gasket when refitting the
sump.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Readjust the cables if
necessary. See Jobs 7 and 8.
Q Step 7: Refill the transmission with
automatic transmission fluid. See Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures.
Job 7. Kickdown cable (automatic
transmission) - adjustment.
Refer to the illustrations in Job 6.
Q Step 1: Check that the slow running speed is correct and
the accelerator cable is correctly adjusted, with just a small
amount of slack.
Q Step 2: Disconnect the kickdown cable from the idler
pulley and ensure that it is perfectly free in its operation.
• Step 3: With the selector lever in 'P', start the engine and
let it idle.
Q Step 4: Pull the inner cable by hand until resistance is felt,
caused by the compression of the valves. The cable end should
now line up with its locating slot in the idler pulley
-
if not,
adjust nuts (7) and (8).
[_l Step 5: Reconnect the cable and then switch off the
engine.
• Step 6: Check that when the accelerator pedal is hard
down, there is
1
mm of further movement left on the
kickdown cable, otherwise, make further adjustments on nuts
(7) and (8).
Refer to illustration Job 6, Step 3.
• Step 1: Raise the car and support it securely on axle stands.
• Step 2: Remove the cover from the gear selection
mechanism and familiarise yourself with the drawing referred
to here.
Q Step 3: Manually select the 'P' (park) position, using the
lever beneath the gearchange (see illustration Job
6-3,
part
6).

• Step 4: Disconnect the cable from the selector eyelet (3)
and detach from the slot in the front end of the bracket (5).
Q Step 5: Disconnect the inner cable from the gearlever (6)
and release the outer casing from its gearbox mounted
bracket (7). Remove the cable.
Q Step 6: Ensure that 'P' (park) is still engaged by moving
the gearlever (6
-
beneath the car) fully rearward.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When 'Park' is properly engaged you
will not be able to turn both front wheels in the same
direction at the same time. This is because the trans-
mission should be 'locked' when 'park' is engaged.
• Step 7: Connect the new cable at the bracket (7) and
then at the bottom of the gear lever (6).
• Step 8: Feed the other end of the cable through to the
inside of the car and fix the outer casing into the slot in
bracket (5).
• Step 9: Put the interior selector lever (2) in the 'P' (park)
position and with the inner cable taut, check that the eyelet
(3) aligns perfectly with the selector pin.
• Step 10: If necessary, slacken the adjustment nut (4) and
adjust the position of the eyelet (3) accordingly. Fit the eyelet
to the pin and tighten the nut (4).
• Step 11: Check that the gears engage in their correct
positions on the selector indicator.
T "I FACT FILE: CHECKING AUTOT
qp- TRANSMISSION SELECTION
EL
-
• Now that you have completed the
installation, and BEFORE USING THE
VEHICLE ON THE ROAD, carry out the
following check:
• The engine should only start when you have selected
either 'P' (park), or 'N' (neutral).
• The gear lever selector positions should agree with
those indicated on the display panel.
• When 'R' (reverse) is selected, the reverse light
should come on. With the ignition switched off, the
buzzer should sound if any position other than 'P'
(park) is selected.
Q Step 12: Refit the selection mechanism cover.
0
Job 6-5

Job 9. Drive-shaft - removal
and refitting.
IMPORTANT NOTE: For removal of the diesel Turbo's
drive-shaft, see also PART A: ENGINE, Job 18, Step 16A.
G Step 1: Drain the transmission oil.
• Step 8B: Diesel turbo
models have a bolt-on inboard
flange.
• Step 9: Withdraw the shaft
from the transmission (illus-
tration Job
9-8A,
part b).
G Step 2: Ask a helper to apply the footbrake very firmly
while
you
slacken the drive-shaft-to-hub nut, using a long bar
for
good
leverage after
opening out the
staking on the nut, as
far
as
possible. DON'T

do so
with the car off

the
ground because

the
very large force
needed could pull it off

its stands.
Remove the

nut
after the car has
been raised.
Job 10. Drive-shaft (outer)
constant velocity joint -
G Step 8A: Undo the

inboard
gaiter retaining

clip
(a) and release the
gaiter.
• Step 11: Refill the
transmission with oil.
See Chapter
3,
Facts
and Figures.
G Step 3: Slacken the hub nuts on the side to be worked

on.
Jack up the front of the car and support on axle stands.
Remove the roadwheel.
G Step 6: Remove the

hub
carrier securing

bolts
(arrowed) from the

base
of the front
suspension strut and tap

the
carrier down and out

of the
clamp. Pull the

top
outwards.
G Step 7: Push

or tap
the drive-

shaft
splines
(arrowed) out of

the hub
carrier,

taking
care not to

damage
the
thread.
Q Step 1: Remove the drive-shaft from the car. See Job 9. G Step 4: Unbolt the
brake hose support clip

from
the suspension strut.
G Step 5: Disconnect the
track rod end from the
steering arm using a
suitable splitter tool.
• Step 2: Remove
the gaiter retaining
clip...
Q Step 3: ...and pull
the gaiter clear.
• Step 4: Remove
the circlip and pull the
CV joint from the shaft.
Q Step 5: Thoroughly clean the joint with petrol or other
agent and dry. Check that the balls and their seats are still in a
good, unbroken shiny condition
-
no score marks. Fit a new
joint if in doubt.
• Step 6: Fit the new gaiter onto the shaft, followed by the
CV joint and circlip. Pack the joint with the grease supplied or
with FL Tutela MRM2 grease.
Q Step 7: Pull the gaiter over the joint and secure with the
retaining band or new screw-type clip. The drive-shaft
assembly is now ready for refitting.
• Step 10: Refit in the
reverse order, using a new
drive-shaft nut tightened to the
specified torque. See
Chapter
3,
Facts and
Figures Stake the nut
into the drive shaft
groove, as shown.

Job 11. Drive-shaft inner spider
joint - replacement.
• Step 3: Replace the (split) rubber mounting and refit the
weight.
Job 13. Front hub/bearings -
replacement.
Job 11-1
a - distance - 305 mm b - spider joint c - inner gaiter d - inner bearing seal e
-
vibration damper f
-
outer gaiter
g - circlip h - outer u.j. i - hub mounting spline
• Step 1: Note the arrangement of the inner spider joint
and drive-shaft components.
Q Step 2: Remove the
drive-shaft from the car. See
Job 9.
• Step 3: Remove the
circlip and pull or press the
spider joint from the drive-
shaft.
• Step 4: Remove the inner gaiter (illustration Job
11-1,

part c) from the seal bearing (Job
11-1,
partd). Check the
bearing for wear and smooth operation.
Q Step 5: Replace it if necessary by using a standard type
puller to remove it from the shaft, driving the new one into
position with a suitable length of tubing.
Q Step 6: After obtaining a new spider joint, if necessary,
(available as a complete replacement item from your FIAT
dealership), fit the new gaiter and its retainer to the shaft,
followed by the spider joint and circlip. No lubrication is
required prior to refitting the drive-shaft.
• Step 7: E9 INSIDE INFORMATION! The turbo diesel
uses an inboard CV joint similar to the outer one except
that it has a flange for attachment to the transmission.
(See PART A: ENGINE, Job 18, Step 16A ) Inspect and
replace in the same way as the outer one. The interme-
diate shaft can only be inspected for wear in its bearing
which cannot be removed separately. Therefore, the
whole unit must be changed if defects are found. Q
Job 12. Drive-shaft damper -
replacement.
Refer to Job
11,
Step 1
Q Step 1: A damper is fitted to the right-hand drive-shaft to
prevent vibration in what is a long drive-shaft. The rubber
mounting can disintegrate or become damaged.
Q Step 2: Use an Allen key to separate the two halves of
the weight.
s * You ™yfind *
" U ' necessary to pull out
gently

on the stub axle and at
the

same time tap lightly (so you don't damage the
thread) on the end of the shaft to knock it through.
• Retrieve the stub axle/hub assembly.
Q Step 7: Use a large vice or a press to push the hub out of
the stub axle.
• Step 8: You may have to remove the bearing inner track
from the hub if it comes out with it.
• Step 2: Partly dismantle the front suspension as described
in Job 9. Steps 2 to 6.
• Step 3: Unbolt the brake caliper and support bracket and
tie it clear.
• Step 1: Take note of the components illustrated here.
Also, see PART G: STEERING AND SUSPENSION, Job
12

where this work is described in more detail.
Q Step 4: Unbolt the brake disc and shield.
• Step 5: Undo the track control arm to stub axle pinch
bolt and
withdraw the
balljoint pin from
the stub axle.
• Step 6: Ease
the stub axle
(illustration Job

13-1,
parts d
and c, combined)
off the drive-
shaft splines (Job

11-1,
parti)
leaving the
inboard end of the
mission.
drive-shaft still attached to the trans-